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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone know offhand if we have both constant and switched power in the center console? I know the cigarette lighter (power adapter plug) in the center console is constant 12V, so I should be able to tap into that, but what about switched 12V power? We should have a connector somewhere in that area, right?

I'm trying to install my hardwire kit for my dashcam and it requires both switched and constant power to use the park recording function.

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You might have switched power at the dash cubby; Jeep messed with the outlet assignments a couple times across the WK2's life. I can't remember off the top of my head what the 2019 configuration would be.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You might have switched power at the dash cubby; Jeep messed with the outlet assignments a couple times across the WK2's life. I can't remember off the top of my head what the 2019 configuration would be.
Yes, that's true, but the whole center surround has to be removed to get to that one. I was hoping to find something in the center console area instead.
 

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I have my Street Guardian dashcam plugged into the "always on" center console cig lighter plug. I simply turn off the power at the cam when garaged.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have my Street Guardian dashcam plugged into the "always on" center console cig lighter plug. I simply turn off the power at the cam when garaged.
That's great, but not what I'm looking for. I'm using a hardwire kit that allows the camera to record while the vehicle is parked. The camera can be set to record only when motion is detected, or if an impact is detected. It can also record XX amount of frames per second, etc... all kinds of options. The hardwire kit will also shut down the camera if the vehicle's battery drops below a user-selectable voltage to prevent killing the battery. It's really a great hardwire kit, but I need constant power and switched power to wire it up.

As for your set up, you'd probably be better off plugging into the socket in the storage cubby below your screen & controls. It turns on/off with the ignition, so you wouldn't have to do anything to turn on or off your camera.
 

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Yes, that's true, but the whole center surround has to be removed to get to that one. I was hoping to find something in the center console area instead.
* What i'm about to say is accurage to my 2017, I doubt they changed for 2019, but double check as needed. *
It is possible to access the wiring of the power outlet in the dash next to the media hub without pulling the world apart. From the passenger side, the lower trim panel that extends from the front footwell to the center arm rest and adjacent to the seat can be removed (or pulled far enough back to get your hand in the tight areas). you'll need a trim tool to unplug the connector to the outlet. If you plan on removing the entire trim piece, the shifter surround will need to be lifted in the rear about 1/2" as it uses the side trim piece as a mounting point.
With the side piece off and the shiter bezel lifted, you should also have access to the outlet wiring in center console. At this point, you can unplug that also. Add a t-harness between the stock wiring and outlet now you've got a place to tap into.

As i've typed all this out, it may be more convenient to use the battery as the constant supply, but use the outlet under HVAC controls as the RUN source.

This image isn't great at showing the trim panel part, but you can see where its pulled back a bit in the front corner. Pink w/yellow = 12+ (acc/run). Orange w/gray = backlight (for that light inside the outlet - dont connect to this). black = ground. If you want to make your own t-harness, partnumbers and pricing from Mouser are in this thread 12 Volt Power Adapter for the WK2
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
* What i'm about to say is accurage to my 2017, I doubt they changed for 2019, but double check as needed. *
It is possible to access the wiring of the power outlet in the dash next to the media hub without pulling the world apart. From the passenger side, the lower trim panel that extends from the front footwell to the center arm rest and adjacent to the seat can be removed (or pulled far enough back to get your hand in the tight areas). you'll need a trim tool to unplug the connector to the outlet. If you plan on removing the entire trim piece, the shifter surround will need to be lifted in the rear about 1/2" as it uses the side trim piece as a mounting point.
With the side piece off and the shiter bezel lifted, you should also have access to the outlet wiring in center console. At this point, you can unplug that also. Add a t-harness between the stock wiring and outlet now you've got a place to tap into.

As i've typed all this out, it may be more convenient to use the battery as the constant supply, but use the outlet under HVAC controls as the RUN source.

This image isn't great at showing the trim panel part, but you can see where its pulled back a bit in the front corner. Pink w/yellow = 12+ (acc/run). Orange w/gray = backlight (for that light inside the outlet - dont connect to this). black = ground. If you want to make your own t-harness, partnumbers and pricing from Mouser are in this thread 12 Volt Power Adapter for the WK2
Hmm...thanks. I read the thread you linked and within that thread I saw a link to another thread where someone found 12V switched with a similar pink/yellow wire further down closer to the 12V power point under the armrest. Maybe I'll also check there to see if mine has that same connector. That way I can just tap both constant and switched together under the console near the armrest. I'll have to give that a shot.

Another question---I have the 3M wire splice connectors pictured below. The red ones are for 18 to 22 gauge wire (tap wire) and 14 to 22 gauge for the pass through wire. My hardwire kit uses 20 gauge wire, so that's fine on the tap side. What gauge wire does the cigarette light socket use? I'm assuming it should be somewhere between 14 and 22 gauge, so it should work fine with the red 3M splice connectors, no?
 

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saw a link to another thread where someone found 12V switched with a similar pink/yellow wire further down closer to the 12V power point under the armrest. Maybe I'll also check there to see if mine has that same connector. That way I can just tap both constant and switched together under the console near the armrest.
Without knowing what wire you're referring to/where the wire plugs in i can't say for certain that 1) its a good/smart location to use and 2) what gague wire it is. The wiring diagram i have from Mopar does not give the gauge wiring in AWG format, but rather as either mm or cross sectional (mm2). Both fused output and ground for the outlet under HVAC are listed as 1.0 - which according to the internet is 18AWG (if 1 = mm) or 17AWG(if 1=mm2). I have not had a chance to confirm what the internet says regarding the conversation of 1.0 -> awg.

Thats a long way of saying, the taps should work. I disagree with the use of the taps, but that's a talk for a different time.


edit: found these image online and conductor cross section of 1 is likely16 awg. given these are power outlets, i would lean more to power/ground being 16 gauge.
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Without knowing what wire you're referring to/where the wire plugs in i can't say for certain that 1) its a good/smart location to use and 2) what gague wire it is. The wiring diagram i have from Mopar does not give the gauge wiring in AWG format, but rather as either mm or cross sectional (mm2). Both fused output and ground for the outlet under HVAC are listed as 1.0 - which according to the internet is 18AWG (if 1 = mm) or 17AWG(if 1=mm2). I have not had a chance to confirm what the internet says regarding the conversation of 1.0 -> awg.

Thats a long way of saying, the taps should work. I disagree with the use of the taps, but that's a talk for a different time.
I'll test the wire to see if it's switched power or not. But the guy who posted the thread linked in the thread you mentioned said it's switched. So if that's the case, it should be just fine.

As far as the taps, I've used them dozens of times and never had an issue. They work by piercing the insulation and contacting the wire, just like almost every other splice/tap connector. But like everything else, you need to make sure that you have the correct size for the wire you're splicing into.
 

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FYI - I didn't want to splice into the wiring while I am under warranty.
And I like to leave the dashcam on while we are parked up at restaurants etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Just to update this thread, I found it pretty easy to pull constant power and ground off of the power point socket under the armrest in the center console. It was as easy as pulling up the center console under the arm rest lid latch and that exposed the wires I needed to tap into. For switched power, I was able to tap off the pink w/yellow striped wire for the power point socket in the cubby under the HVAC controls. Fortunately, there was enough slack in the wire to pull it out from the side without even disconnecting the plug that goes into the back of the power point socket. All I had to do was pop the plastic panel off from the passenger side and I was able to pull the wire out enough to tap into it. The whole thing ended up being a 10 minute job and the red 3M splice connectors worked perfectly.
 

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There are also some pigtails that are available online that go inline on the back of the the 12v port between the OEM harness to give you a 12v lead instead of tapping.
 

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Just as an aside. Tapping into the CANBUS system while you are still under warranty COULD give the manufacturer a reason to void the warranty and/or give you a hard time should there be any electrical issues. That's why I used the cig lighter plug under the arm rest.
 

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That's a good option if you can reach the back of the connector. Do you have any links?
 

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Just as an aside. Tapping into the CANBUS system while you are still under warranty COULD give the manufacturer a reason to void the warranty and/or give you a hard time should there be any electrical issues. That's why I used the cig lighter plug under the arm rest.
Is the 12v outlet part of the CANBUS? It had never occurred to me that they would be, as there is zero control over what gets plugged into one after the fact. Also besides potential warranty issues, CANBUS is very sensitive to any electrical "chatter."
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Is the 12v outlet part of the CANBUS? It had never occurred to me that they would be, as there is zero control over what gets plugged into one after the fact. Also besides potential warranty issues, CANBUS is very sensitive to any electrical "chatter."
Yeah, it's really not part of the CANBUS system. That's why I specifically chose to hardwire into both the switched and unswitched 12V power outlets to wire my dashcam. There were other options, but I didn't want to take a chance and end up with weird electrical gremlins due to tapping directly into CANBUS wiring. But with the 12V powerpoint wiring, there's no risk of creating those kinds of issues. Lucky for us, we have both switched and unswitched power outlets in the cabin. And I believe the one in the cargo area can be changed between switched & constant by moving a fuse. I haven't done that, but I've read that a few people have.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
That's pretty nice. Has anyone confirmed that it's the right connector for our Grand Cherokees?
 
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