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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2014 Grand Cherokee Overland that is telling me "Service Four Wheel Drive System" every time I start it. The traction control light then turns on immediately afterward. I am also no longer able to use the cruise control because of the service four wheel drive message. I am currently at 55,000 miles. The person that called me from the service center said my powertrain warranty is up and quoted $2200 for replacing the transfer case. After this news I contacted Jeep and they said I am out of warranty due to time (5 years/100,000 miles) so they would not be able to help me, but suggested I talk with the dealer as they might have some leeway in options because of the low mileage and within 2 years of the timing of the warranty. I am open to any advice on the best way to go about this matter with the dealer for anyone that is willing to share. They gave me the service managers number today but she was off so I will be calling on Monday.

The second part of my post is in regards to diagnosis itself. For those that are mechanically inclined, would you agree with the recommendation?

"Verified 4X4 system is not working properly. Verified traction light also turns on. Checked for codes found few codes in system. One in ABS U0403-00. Implausible data received from transfer case. One in ACC C2227-00 ABS disabled ECU. And DTCM C1476-00 Transfer case clutch position out of range. Following diagnostics, Checked for an active DTC, verified code active. Performed the kiss point relearn procedure. After test, codes did store, but vehicle would not shift into 4x4 low. Continued diagnostics. Checked the (T315) Shift Motor Control Circuit for an open/high resistance between DTCM and T-case shift motor connector. Resistance 0 OHM. Checked the (T316) circuit for an open/high resistance, 0 OHM. Checked the (K504) Drivetrain 5-volt supply circuit for an open/high resistance between DTCM and T-Case mode sensor connector, 0 OHM. Checked the (T313) Mode Sensor Signal circuit for an open/high resistance, 0 OHM. Checked the (K594) Drivetrain sensor return circuit for an open/high resistance, 0 OHM. Power and ground to DTCM Good. Recommend replacing transfer case to correct concern."

From searching the forums some have reported their issues were due to a bad transfer case control module. Does this testing rule the control module out? If it helps at all, my back 2 tires are the ones that are working

Any assistance is greatly appreciated.
 

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A transfer case failure would be mechanical or the clutch pak would be worn out..... .....A mechanical failure of the XFR Case or a worn out clutch pak would not cause every circuit to short to sensors or the shift motor....

You could have a shorted out wire harness or a dead circuit or the DTCM/Transfer Control Case module is fried......
I'd take it to another place for a 2nd opinion....

Do you have noises, weird reactions or other symptoms when starting/shutting down or while driving?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
No strange noises or reactions.

When the roads are dry I don’t really even notice a difference. Now that we’ve had a couple of snowfalls I can say rear wheel only is a bit less than ideal.
 

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The rear wheels are directly driven thru the XFR Case, its the front wheels that are driven through a wet clutch pack, that an electric motor adjust the pressure on the clutch pack.... ....there is a chance there is no pressure on the clutch pack at all and you're in RWD only....

This is only for the MP3023 transfer case, that comes in the QTII and QDII 4WD systems. Since your post talked about not being able to go into 4LOW.
 

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Can always bail from the dealer and have an independent shop install a used box. Would save a ton of money. It’s not unheard of the clutch in the transfer case failing.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The rear wheels are directly driven thru the XFR Case, its the front wheels that are driven through a wet clutch pack, that an electric motor adjust the pressure on the clutch pack.... ....there is a chance there is no pressure on the clutch pack at all and you're in RWD only....

This is only for the MP3023 transfer case, that comes in the QTII and QDII 4WD systems. Since your post talked about not being able to go into 4LOW.
When you say that there’s a chance there’s no pressure on the clutch pack, are you indicating it could indeed be an issue within the transfer case itself, or still a fault of one of the other electrical components that talk to the transfer case not being able to communicate properly? Might that play into the 0 ohm results?

Thanks for all the thoughts so far!
 

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The clutch pack in the transfer case has to have the electric motor operate the mechanism to apply force on the clutch pack to engage the front drivetrain....
So I'm saying it's possible it's just the control module, that shows all the circuits shorted out, and if the control module was dead, then there would be nothing telling the electric motor to set pressure on the clutch pack.....

You really need to take it for a 2nd opinion...

I can't see how a failed transfer case works just fine while driving the vehicle, but when testing it with the Dealer Diagnostic tool shows all the circuits out of the control module are shorted? How does every sensor and motor in the transfer case short out, but the control module is fine? And could the shorts in all those circuits be the only thing all the those circuits have in common? The control module?

If you did have something wrong with your transfer case, you'd get at least some noise... ...I suppose it's possible the transfer case is bad and the module is bad also, but I'm not confident in what their telling you....
 

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I have a 2014 Grand Cherokee Overland that is telling me "Service Four Wheel Drive System" every time I start it. The traction control light then turns on immediately afterward. I am also no longer able to use the cruise control because of the service four wheel drive message. I am currently at 55,000 miles. The person that called me from the service center said my powertrain warranty is up and quoted $2200 for replacing the transfer case. After this news I contacted Jeep and they said I am out of warranty due to time (5 years/100,000 miles) so they would not be able to help me, but suggested I talk with the dealer as they might have some leeway in options because of the low mileage and within 2 years of the timing of the warranty. I am open to any advice on the best way to go about this matter with the dealer for anyone that is willing to share. They gave me the service managers number today but she was off so I will be calling on Monday.

The second part of my post is in regards to diagnosis itself. For those that are mechanically inclined, would you agree with the recommendation?

"Verified 4X4 system is not working properly. Verified traction light also turns on. Checked for codes found few codes in system. One in ABS U0403-00. Implausible data received from transfer case. One in ACC C2227-00 ABS disabled ECU. And DTCM C1476-00 Transfer case clutch position out of range. Following diagnostics, Checked for an active DTC, verified code active. Performed the kiss point relearn procedure. After test, codes did store, but vehicle would not shift into 4x4 low. Continued diagnostics. Checked the (T315) Shift Motor Control Circuit for an open/high resistance between DTCM and T-case shift motor connector. Resistance 0 OHM. Checked the (T316) circuit for an open/high resistance, 0 OHM. Checked the (K504) Drivetrain 5-volt supply circuit for an open/high resistance between DTCM and T-Case mode sensor connector, 0 OHM. Checked the (T313) Mode Sensor Signal circuit for an open/high resistance, 0 OHM. Checked the (K594) Drivetrain sensor return circuit for an open/high resistance, 0 OHM. Power and ground to DTCM Good. Recommend replacing transfer case to correct concern."

From searching the forums some have reported their issues were due to a bad transfer case control module. Does this testing rule the control module out? If it helps at all, my back 2 tires are the ones that are working

Any assistance is greatly appreciated.
As I read it, the Tech was testing the wires for continuity. Since they all reported 0 ohms they all tested good. But that's just the wires and presumably those were the wires the factory manual says to test for troubleshooting purposes. I have to make a presumption that normally there will always be some engagement of the clutch pack, that is, the vehicle is not designed to ever operate with that clutch completely disengaged and only the rear wheels getting power. Therefore, if something is going on which keeps the clutch from engaging I see two major things that would cause that... 1) the clutch or clutch engagement motor/mechanism is bad and no amount of "signal" from the control module would change that, the control module could be saying "engage damnit" but if the clutch "stuff" has gone belly up it's not going to engage. Lack of engagement might in and of itself result in enough other things "not being right" that you get those other trouble codes for ABS, etc. It seems possible to me that a failed control module might be the cause of the clutch not engaging. I'm not seeing (but I"m not an expert) where any of the reported troubleshooting has actually ruled out a bad module as the cause. It seems clear that the clutch isn't engaging, it's not clear to me if it's because the clutch (transfer case) is bad or if it's because the module is failing to tell the clutch to engage.

I would ask the dealer if it's possible for them to put a new module on it as a troubleshooting attempt. The problem is that most places won't "sell" you a module and refund your money if it turns out that's not the problem because of the fear that installing a new module into a problem system might burn out the new module. The classic "No refund on electrical parts". Not surprisingly the dealer doesn't want to risk the cost of the smoked new module if that's what happens. And in fairness to the dealer, he really has no way to know if the new module has been smoked making it risky for him to put it back on the shelf as a new part waiting for the next customer.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you all very much for your thoughts. It has been very informative and I appreciate you taking the time to give me your input. I’ll be calling the service manager tomorrow to see if they are willing to help out in the warranty regard at all and go from there. It was a bit disheartening to hear I would be tagged with a $2200 bill on a vehicle I’m still paying off because I’m a year and a half past the deadline even though I’m well short of the 100,000 mile aspect. At any rate you’ve all given me hope that it could be a less costly repair.
 

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I have a 2014 Grand Cherokee Overland that is telling me "Service Four Wheel Drive System" every time I start it. The traction control light then turns on immediately afterward. I am also no longer able to use the cruise control because of the service four wheel drive message. I am currently at 55,000 miles. The person that called me from the service center said my powertrain warranty is up and quoted $2200 for replacing the transfer case. After this news I contacted Jeep and they said I am out of warranty due to time (5 years/100,000 miles) so they would not be able to help me, but suggested I talk with the dealer as they might have some leeway in options because of the low mileage and within 2 years of the timing of the warranty. I am open to any advice on the best way to go about this matter with the dealer for anyone that is willing to share. They gave me the service managers number today but she was off so I will be calling on Monday.

The second part of my post is in regards to diagnosis itself. For those that are mechanically inclined, would you agree with the recommendation?

"Verified 4X4 system is not working properly. Verified traction light also turns on. Checked for codes found few codes in system. One in ABS U0403-00. Implausible data received from transfer case. One in ACC C2227-00 ABS disabled ECU. And DTCM C1476-00 Transfer case clutch position out of range. Following diagnostics, Checked for an active DTC, verified code active. Performed the kiss point relearn procedure. After test, codes did store, but vehicle would not shift into 4x4 low. Continued diagnostics. Checked the (T315) Shift Motor Control Circuit for an open/high resistance between DTCM and T-case shift motor connector. Resistance 0 OHM. Checked the (T316) circuit for an open/high resistance, 0 OHM. Checked the (K504) Drivetrain 5-volt supply circuit for an open/high resistance between DTCM and T-Case mode sensor connector, 0 OHM. Checked the (T313) Mode Sensor Signal circuit for an open/high resistance, 0 OHM. Checked the (K594) Drivetrain sensor return circuit for an open/high resistance, 0 OHM. Power and ground to DTCM Good. Recommend replacing transfer case to correct concern."

From searching the forums some have reported their issues were due to a bad transfer case control module. Does this testing rule the control module out? If it helps at all, my back 2 tires are the ones that are working

Any assistance is greatly appreciated.
Hi brewsky27,
We would be happy to take a look into this to see if there is any assistance we can offer on our end. Please send us a PM with your VIN.
Alex
JeepCares
 

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As I read it, the Tech was testing the wires for continuity. Since they all reported 0 ohms they all tested good. But that's just the wires and presumably those were the wires the factory manual says to test for troubleshooting purposes.
Thanks, yea, after rereading it, I think you're right, they are saying they tested the ends of the wires for open circuits and thus the 0 ohms is good. I took it as they were reading the results of the scan tool....

But here's the problem I see and worries me.... ....it seems they did some trouble shooting and could not find the problem, and thus have concluded the whole Transfer Case must have gone bad

But, they have not found or identified what is wrong with the Transfer case, nor has anything the O.P. told us indicates the transfer case is bad, just there is a problem with the whole system....

So yes, its possible the transfer case is bad, but I'd hate to pay $2200 and then find out it didn't fix the problem....

That is why I'm suggesting getting a 2nd opinion, diagnosis....

And as folks have already mentioned, there are several alternatives to get a new or rebuilt transfer case for a lot less than $2200....
 

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Thanks, yea, after rereading it, I think you're right, they are saying they tested the ends of the wires for open circuits and thus the 0 ohms is good. I took it as they were reading the results of the scan tool....

But here's the problem I see and worries me.... ....it seems they did some trouble shooting and could not find the problem, and thus have concluded the whole Transfer Case must have gone bad

But, they have not found or identified what is wrong with the Transfer case, nor has anything the O.P. told us indicates the transfer case is bad, just there is a problem with the whole system....

So yes, its possible the transfer case is bad, but I'd hate to pay $2200 and then find out it didn't fix the problem....

That is why I'm suggesting getting a 2nd opinion, diagnosis....

And as folks have already mentioned, there are several alternatives to get a new or rebuilt transfer case for a lot less than $2200....
I presume installing a module is easy so I'd still try to get them to put a module on it that can be returned if it doesn't fix the issue. Or even buy my own and slap it on. Here's one from ebay that would be about $100 to the door. I'd rather risk a $100 worth of throwing parts at it before starting to tear it apart. https://www.ebay.com/itm/2014-JEEP-CHEROKEE-TRANSFER-CASE-CONTROL-MODULE-68323981AA-/201888419834
 

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Throwing $100 at it based on a guess is better than throwing $2200 at it based on a guess.....

I would really do my best to identify what is wrong with the transfer case before replacing it......

So far the only thing I've seen from what the dealer did, is they did a little troubleshooting and couldn't find anything wrong with the module or wiring, so they conclude the transfer case must be shot.......
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I held off a little while to see what the dealer and Jeep would be able to do for my situation. Long story short - pretty much nothing. Still stood at $2200 for the transfer case replacement.

So I researched more into the Transfer Case Control module and was able to find one online from a salvage yard from another 2014 Grand Cherokee Overland. I was able to get it for $100 and figured it was worth a shot before taking it some place else. It arrived yesterday and I installed it last night.

After driving it on 4 separate occasions so far the message has not returned (before installing the "new" TCCM, the message would appear almost immediately after starting the Jeep). As far as the EVIC is concerned, it looks like my issue was fixed. No "Service Four Wheel Drive System," the Traction Control light is no longer on (which indicates traction control is off), and I am now again able to use cruise control.

Now my question is how is the 4 wheel drive supposed to work? It was my understanding all 4 wheels should be spinning/receiving power at all times, is this not the case? I took it to an icy patch at my lunch break with a buddy and it still looks like the front wheels aren't spinning when giving it some gas. I also tried this in the "snow" mode for the Selec-Terrain System. The idea of finding a TCCM from a similar make was so that I wouldn't need to have it "flashed" at the dealer. I'm wondering now with the "service four wheel drive system" message being gone, that the TCCM was indeed the issue, but I need it flashed to work correctly for my setup? You would expect to see the wheels spin somewhat before any power would be cut to them them, correct? For reference, this is a Quadra-Trac II 4WD System with the Selec-Terrain System.

As always, any input is greatly appreciated.
 

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Thoughts:

My guess is that you have fixed your problem.

Most of the magic with the WK2 4wd system is done through wheel sensors, electronics and the braking system. The electronics sometimes allows for significant wheelspin even while sending power to other wheels. On rare occasion mine has gotten confused, say straddling a ditch diagonally, and didn't get with the program. When that happens, the nuclear solution is to use 4Lo, and if necessary Rock Mode.

Does the center diff still lock up in low range? Do a tight circle (on dirt or grass); you should feel the nose 'push' in 4Lo.

The next time you are at a dealer, you might have the parts dept print out an exploded parts diagram for your transfer case, then have one of the tech's point and explain. Just 'cause it is nice to know.
 

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Now my question is how is the 4 wheel drive supposed to work? It was my understanding all 4 wheels should be spinning/receiving power at all times, is this not the case? I took it to an icy patch at my lunch break with a buddy and it still looks like the front wheels aren't spinning when giving it some gas. I also tried this in the "snow" mode for the Selec-Terrain System. The idea of finding a TCCM from a similar make was so that I wouldn't need to have it "flashed" at the dealer. I'm wondering now with the "service four wheel drive system" message being gone, that the TCCM was indeed the issue, but I need it flashed to work correctly for my setup? You would expect to see the wheels spin somewhat before any power would be cut to them them, correct? For reference, this is a Quadra-Trac II 4WD System with the Selec-Terrain System.
The QTII has the MP3023 Transfer Case. This transfer case in the WK2 only uses the Automatic 4WD and 4LOW mode, there are more modes for this case but Jeep doesn't use them. It has a wet clutch instead of a differential, and an electric motor to increase/decrease pressure on the clutch plates..... ....Jeeps SelecTerrain feature taylors the vehicle electronic controls to work better for the surface conditions selected, the ABS/ESC/Traction Control and Pressure on the Wet Clutch in the transfer case....

The rear wheels are directly driven by the transmission, the wet clutch transfers torque/power through the chain to the front driveshaft.... ...the wet clutch allows slippage so front and rear axles can turn at different speeds, like when turning, wheels are slipping or transients like big torque changes....

If you're trying to accellerate on ice, Traction Control could be reducing torque.... ...did you try it with traction control off?

There are lots of posts about the transfer case wet clutch not engaging properly when the transfer case is overdue for a fluid change, and fresh fluid bringing it back to normal....

The front wheels not spinning on ice I would not consider proof the transfer case is not working, there are more than a few things to explain that.....
 
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