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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,

I have a 2002 GC limited with auto temperature contolled a/c. Over the last several weeks the A/C would be running and then turn off...then turn back on. IT did this for several weeks. Now it wont do anything. I have removed the blower and bench tested w/ power and it works fine.

What are the next things to test? and How are they tested?

Thanks for the help.

signed, sweating in Maryland.
Eric
 

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The beast from Brazil
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Most of the time the connector on the blower motor controller makes bad contact and melts the connector away. The controller sits just next to the blower motor, you should be able to see it looking up in the passengers side footwell.
Did you check this connector already. If this is the problem, you could decide in buying a new connector and controller, or just solder the wires directly on the controller board. Ypahihi did a writeup on this: http://www.jeepgarage.org/f204/replacing-blower-motor-resister-wiring-37096.html
Can be that the controller itself is bad as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Frank,
Thanks, out of town, but as soon as i get home i will check this out, i saw the picture on his writeup. I searched here before posting, i dont know why his write up did not come up...thanks and i will let you know what i find. I did get used blower and resister, but the resistor i got is the wrong style...i have the style with all the little nodes. i have gotten it unscrewed but cant get it out...weekend project...thanks again.
Eric
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Jeep GC Limited 2002...i fixed the melted connector from the blower motor to the resistor by splicing wires ..soldered middle wire directly to resitor and the other two put connectors on and melted tubing around the connections...but before or during the blower motor failing, the a/c was cool and working fine, but now the air does not get cool at all.
is this a potential coincdience or does the reisister help in this area as well and maybe one of my connections is bad?
 

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The beast from Brazil
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Just to be sure how the situation is, you have enough air coming from the vents, but its not getting cold enough, right? If its like that, the blower motor controller change should not have made any difference on te working of the AC and the cold air. Your problem is somewhere else.
What many times happens is that the fan motor wiring is spliced wrongly, causing a little different but still strong fan noise, but almost no airflow from the vents. This is because the fan runs in the wrong direction.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Nope, air circulation is good, blowerr is blowing and changes speed with the turn of the knob i am going to check fuses today...when i push the a/c button, doesnt seem like compressor kicking in...
 

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The beast from Brazil
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Ok, then check fuse 21 (10A) on the junction block under the steering wheel and fuse 21 (15A) in the power distribution center under the hood.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Fuses all seem to be ok. swapped horn and AC relay, same part numbers, no change and horn still worked. i turned the fan all the way to low, so i could hear, but it seems like the compressor is not kicking in when the a/c button is pushed, but the button is lighting. could it have something to do with that panel connection
 

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The beast from Brazil
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The compressor is switched via the PCM. The PCM gets a pressure signal from the AC pressure transducer. You could test the compressor by removing the compressor relay and connect point 30 to 87. If the compressor kicks in, you know that the clutch is working fine.
You could have a low charge in the AC system.
You can eventually check the presense of voltage at the compressor relay, there should be 12V between point 86 and ground and between 30 and ground.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
two questions...would the compressor not kick on due to low regrigerant, and two what is point 30 and 87

and just to confirm the compressor relay is under the hood that i already swapped w the horn relay? thanks for your help again
 

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The beast from Brazil
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No, low refrigerant (pressure) will not let the PCM activate the compressor clutch and the compressor will not come on.
The point numbers i was talking about are the relay pin numbers. By connecting pin 30 to 87 you override the relay and the compressor clutch should activate. Just do this as a test and not for a long time. Too low refrigerant could eventually cause damage to the compressor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Frank,...connecting pin 37 to 80 made instantaneous results. even w/o the engine on, the clutch clicked and when engine started it ran. i rechecked the relays in the horn slot and so the bottom line is...must be low on refrigerant.

thanks again for all the help on this. it has been a great learning experience.
 

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The beast from Brazil
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Yes, best is to take it to an AC service center, where they put it on a machine which empties the whole system, put it on vacuum and checks for leaks, whereafter it will put the right amount of lubricant and refrigerant into the system.
The pressure transducer could eventually be the problem, but that one can be changed without loosing refrigerant. ( a little bit could come out when removing the transducer, but then a schräder valve closes and keeps the refrigerant in the system)
 
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