Jeep Garage  - Jeep Forum banner

1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
All,

I have WHAT I THINK IS an oil pan leak developing on my 2011 GC Hemi. My car is a 2011 2WD HEMI w/ tow package and 85k miles. I am the only one who has ever changed the oil on this car. The transmission was replaced at 28k miles.

I'm kinda surprised the oil pan would start leaking out of nowhere. I noticed spots start appearing on my driveway. I jacked the car up and the entire rear of the pan is coated in a thin sheen of oil. I don't believe its a rear main seal because its not coming from around the engine to bellhousing seal.

I've looked around and found ONE guide out of some shop book. I'm okay with doing the procedure myself but I have a few questions. Can somebody post the step by step with pictures or email them to me? I can pay you a few dollars for your time.

To the few that have done this, is it required to take off the powersteering hoses? This is what I really want to avoid because I feel like it will be a huge mess.

Also if anybody can tell me the book time and possibly approximate price to do this. I'm assuming they will want a pretty penny since you have to remove most of that front cradle.

Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Well as a followup I did eventually get around to doing this. My gasket was totally turned hard and brittle and was broken in a few areas in the back closest to the transmission. This could be due to my trans overheating and eventually failing and needing to be replaced under warranty. This job is a real pain in the ass for sure and I consider myself lucky that I didn't have 4x4. I did this in my home garage on jack stands in 1 day by myself, but I am also an ASE certified mechanic so I do have more tools than the basic home guy will have. Anyway, I hate leaving threads open ended because eventually somebody will search this and need help.

I followed the instructions here in this thread, however, it doesn't have pictures, which is a buzzkill. Luckily after much searching, you can download the full service manual part 1 and part 2 here: . Your looking for page 1570 to do this job.

Helpful Notes:
1. The 1000lb harbor freight engine support truss did work for me just fine. I did not use the special engine hook but I would advise that people ues that. I simply held mine up with two bolts attached to the support truss.
2. You SHOULD order an intake manifold gasket set when you do this as they will need replacing anyway
3. You SHOULD order an oil pan pick up tube o-ring when you do this.
4. You SHOULD order two new engine mounts since you have to take them out anyway.
5. The passenger side upper control arm is spring loaded UP. Do not be holding on to it, or have your caliper attached to it when you remove the ball joint because it will crush whatever is attached there.
6. When you remove the power steering lines you will need to bleed the system. Best way to do that is by using a mityvac vacuum pump and following this guide.
7. You will need weird sized sockets and wrenches most notably 16mm and 18mm.


If anybody ever needs help PM me and I should be able to get back to you.

Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
My dealer just replaced my oil pan because of a leak and now the pressure drops to 0 when idling, I plan on taking it back tomorrow but I'm curious why? What did they possibly do wrong?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Well as a followup I did eventually get around to doing this. My gasket was totally turned hard and brittle and was broken in a few areas in the back closest to the transmission. This could be due to my trans overheating and eventually failing and needing to be replaced under warranty. This job is a real pain in the ass for sure and I consider myself lucky that I didn't have 4x4. I did this in my home garage on jack stands in 1 day by myself, but I am also an ASE certified mechanic so I do have more tools than the basic home guy will have. Anyway, I hate leaving threads open ended because eventually somebody will search this and need help.

I followed the instructions here in this thread, however, it doesn't have pictures, which is a buzzkill. Luckily after much searching, you can download the full service manual part 1 and part 2 here: . Your looking for page 1570 to do this job.

Helpful Notes:
1. The 1000lb harbor freight engine support truss did work for me just fine. I did not use the special engine hook but I would advise that people ues that. I simply held mine up with two bolts attached to the support truss.
2. You SHOULD order an intake manifold gasket set when you do this as they will need replacing anyway
3. You SHOULD order an oil pan pick up tube o-ring when you do this.
4. You SHOULD order two new engine mounts since you have to take them out anyway.
5. The passenger side upper control arm is spring loaded UP. Do not be holding on to it, or have your caliper attached to it when you remove the ball joint because it will crush whatever is attached there.
6. When you remove the power steering lines you will need to bleed the system. Best way to do that is by using a mityvac vacuum pump and following this guide.
7. You will need weird sized sockets and wrenches most notably 16mm and 18mm.


If anybody ever needs help PM me and I should be able to get back to you.

Thanks!
Hey my dealer just
Well as a followup I did eventually get around to doing this. My gasket was totally turned hard and brittle and was broken in a few areas in the back closest to the transmission. This could be due to my trans overheating and eventually failing and needing to be replaced under warranty. This job is a real pain in the ass for sure and I consider myself lucky that I didn't have 4x4. I did this in my home garage on jack stands in 1 day by myself, but I am also an ASE certified mechanic so I do have more tools than the basic home guy will have. Anyway, I hate leaving threads open ended because eventually somebody will search this and need help.

I followed the instructions here in this thread, however, it doesn't have pictures, which is a buzzkill. Luckily after much searching, you can download the full service manual part 1 and part 2 here: . Your looking for page 1570 to do this job.

Helpful Notes:
1. The 1000lb harbor freight engine support truss did work for me just fine. I did not use the special engine hook but I would advise that people ues that. I simply held mine up with two bolts attached to the support truss.
2. You SHOULD order an intake manifold gasket set when you do this as they will need replacing anyway
3. You SHOULD order an oil pan pick up tube o-ring when you do this.
4. You SHOULD order two new engine mounts since you have to take them out anyway.
5. The passenger side upper control arm is spring loaded UP. Do not be holding on to it, or have your caliper attached to it when you remove the ball joint because it will crush whatever is attached there.
6. When you remove the power steering lines you will need to bleed the system. Best way to do that is by using a mityvac vacuum pump and following this guide.
7. You will need weird sized sockets and wrenches most notably 16mm and 18mm.


If anybody ever needs help PM me and I should be able to get back to you.

Thanks!
My dealer just replaced my oil pan because of a leak and now the pressure drops to 0 when idling, I plan on taking it back tomorrow but I'm curious why? What did they possibly do wrong?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,536 Posts
My dealer just replaced my oil pan because of a leak and now the pressure drops to 0 when idling, I plan on taking it back tomorrow but I'm curious why? What did they possibly do wrong?
Hi Michael,
We're sorry to hear about this. If you need any additional assistance while working with the dealer, please send our team a private message.
Alex
JeepCares
 

·
Registered
Grand Cherokee
Joined
·
2,812 Posts
My dealer just replaced my oil pan because of a leak and now the pressure drops to 0 when idling, I plan on taking it back tomorrow but I'm curious why? What did they possibly do wrong?
Have you checked your oil level?

This is a real problem, zero oil pressure will destroy an engine, even at idle.
The oil pressure sensor could be bad and providing an incorrect signal for the actual oil pressure. Or it could be right and your getting zero oil pressure at idle....

They could messed up a seal with the pick-up or forgot it completely, they could have gotten something in the in the pan that is clogging the pick-up, they could have forgotten to fill the engine with oil....

Eitherway, this is a serious problem, I'd call them and discuss if the vehicle should be towed back to them, as well as check the oil level and make sure they failed to fill it properly with oil.....
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top