Ugh. Just read that. If my dealership didn't check it before sending ANY and EVERY damn GC out the door, I won't have any faith in them going forward. Is this the exact same issue?
Has the car been totally solid since then? Just curious. If something like that can cause the thing to go so totally batcrap crazy, well, what's next? Over time, anything can get loose.Had a similar issue on my 2012. It was a loose alternator cable.
Absolutely. The dealer is 32 miles away, 90% highway. In some areas of the country (say, NH, where I'm originally from), would they not tow a vehicle 32 miles to the nearest dealership?I beg to differ...
I'd still blame Chrysler and their road side assistance, they SHOULD cover the vehicle's tow to the original dealership where it was bought...within reason of course...especially with only a couple hundred miles on it. The extra 15 minutes of drive time should not matter.
Just read your post. Wow. Yeah, I gotta say I love my 2002 Wrangler. I bought it solely because it was a one-owner, and the guy had it 100K miles. I knew it was probably one of the "good ones," but the big thing is that there is so little to go wrong on them. One year later, and at 116K miles, the starter is the only thing that I've had to replace.I feel your pain. My '11 died, as well (link to my post). Luckily, it looks like my dealer fixed my problem.
Chrysler/Jeep really does have to do something about their finicky electrical/electronic systems. IMHO, there is absolutely no excuse for a new modern vehicle becoming totally dead. Modern vehicles are very complex and problems are to be expected, but dieing is totally unacceptable.
Lever did not move from what I remember. The transmission just popped out of gear. The headlights flickered while driving so it was not just at idle. I believe the ac was off. Car started fine. Flickered headlights, then popped out of gear. After that, first time I shut it off and everything went black. I couldn't even put the flashers on. Car was in the middle of the road in the dark with no flashers. Ugh. Walked home. Came back and car seemed fine. Started up fine, noticed headlights flickering and then the same procedure happened.Just some thoughts: with an alternator, the main control is the battery itself. If anyone has heard of "ELI the ICE man" then you know that an alternator is made up of magnetic fields. If at a high rate of charge at say 14v and you disconnect the battery, the field does not collapse instantly and you can get surges.
With a 55A GM 10DN I have seen 200v on a battery disconnect. The good news is that if the dash stayed steady then it probably had a good circuit to the battery. The headlamps flickering could indicate they did not.
When the trans popped, did the lever actually move from drive to neutral ? Or did the transmission seem to shift to neutral (two different issues). Also did the headlights flicker all the time or only at idle ? Was the a/c or heater on ? (increased load).
Must admit everything sounds like a bad connection or battery except for the jumping out of gear particularly if the lever moved.
BTW everything on until the starter engages then everything goes black is common with a bad battery or connection.