Now at the moment I am fine with my current 9 speaker setup, But when I feel I need to upgrade can you just upgrade speakers and leave factory amp to drive the new speakers. I would replace sub with JL stealth box or a version of my own.
2014 speaker upgrade
1 - 20 of 68 Posts
Replacing the speakers won't do much. The Kicker upgrade may help some. There is not full-range signal going to any of the speakers. Thus, a quality set of aftermarket speakers won't help much. A significant improvement takes quite a bit of time, patience, and money. You'd have to start with an input summing device (LC6i or DSP), aftermarket amp, and good speakers in front. Upgrading the sub isn't fun either -- unless you simply add box to your cargo area, and eliminate the OE sub.
Ive upgraded my fair share of stereos with aftermarket head units. It would be my first in retaining factory radio and amp. I wouldn't use a LC6i I would use the DQ-61. The DQ-61 would be better since it has built in EQ. But that's if I upgrade. Thanks for the info on that I couldn't just replace speakers.
Research the JBL MS-8 processor. It's basically an upgrade in a can. Does everything for you such as Time Alignment, summing, crossovers, etc. AND has a built in amp so can build your system up slowly. Great if you don't have the time (or patience) to do months of tuning and retuning. It's automatic so it might not be your cup of tea if you like tinkering around a bit.
Aside from the MS-8 install I'm adding an amp for the subwoofer, sub enclosure reinforcement and 6.5" components for the front doors. Everything else will be stock (for the time being) and can be run from the MS-8.
Aside from the MS-8 install I'm adding an amp for the subwoofer, sub enclosure reinforcement and 6.5" components for the front doors. Everything else will be stock (for the time being) and can be run from the MS-8.
Why do you want to do 6.5 comps up front? I would get the Image Dynamics 6x9 comps. Of coarse all I use is Image Dynamics. If I upgrade mine I have to decide to work with my IDMax 12 and Q1200.1 amp or sell them to get a IDQ 10, Q440.4, and Q600.1.
The debate of 6x9's vs 6.5's has been raging for years. I've never been a fan of oval speakers. If you're not using a sub, 6x9s are great for providing frequencies below 250Hz and with more efficiency than a subwoofer. But in the GC you already have a sub albeit small & weak one in a weak plastic enclosure. But because you also have a 6x9" (midbass) and a 1" tweeter (highs) you have nothing to provide the midrange so your front sound stage suffers. It was the first thing I noticed when I hopped in the GC for a test drive and hooked up my ipod. I found the sound muddy with a gap between the highs and lows which exposed quality of the speakers used. You'll notice on the H/K upgrade they provide a mid range in the front door.
Don't get me wrong, I've heard some really good aftermarket 6x9's and it is a matter of choice. They're mainly used by domestic car manufacturers as a way to create bass in narrow rear decks without having to use separate midrange and subs.
I reckon, as start, if one were to replace the 6x9's with 6.5's (even cheap ones) and replace the subwoofer and reinforce the existing sub enclosure, you'd hear a significant improvement in the sound quality.
Don't get me wrong, I've heard some really good aftermarket 6x9's and it is a matter of choice. They're mainly used by domestic car manufacturers as a way to create bass in narrow rear decks without having to use separate midrange and subs.
I reckon, as start, if one were to replace the 6x9's with 6.5's (even cheap ones) and replace the subwoofer and reinforce the existing sub enclosure, you'd hear a significant improvement in the sound quality.
Joined
·
1,830 Posts
Greetings,
I am almost finished with my major upgrade and soon I will have the write up and pictures.
The first thing we did was to install the speakers with out the sub and leave the factory dsp amp in to see how it sounds out of curiosity. The Speakers are from HAT with the stealth box. The sound quality was not bad, but, it need the power and the crossover settings were not right for these speakers. If you want to go this route, we must fine efficient speakers.
IMO, it is not worth it. The problem is with the factory amp and the settings that can not be changed. From the previous post by Radknight, that information is correct. I always suggest if you go this way, be prepared to install an amp and the converter. If you read my various post over the years, depending upon your level of music whether you into loud (SPL) or sound quality (SQ), you will be spending money to correct the factory problem.
To answer your question regarding 6x9 or 6.5, I am not a fan of the 6x9 when it come to sound quality. I prefer the mid-bass or midrange punch. Besides the common manufactures or can look for raw drivers. PartsExpress.com or Madisound.com are the best sources. Many of these drivers are the same ones that the named manufactures such as Pioneer, JL Audio, etc...
I do have preview pictures up when hit my name. It show be on my photo album.
Best for now.
Good choice on including something with EQ. The OE signal needs a lot of EQ'ing -- even when summed. I mentioned LC6i -- as that's the bare minimum. A lot of people don't want to spend an additional $400 just to get decent sound from their $200 aftermarket speakers
.Like I said though I am fine with stock system. But it's nice to have info taken care of if I do make the switch. If I was to this would be all that I would get. DQ-61, image dynamics XS-69 6x9 components for front, X-65 6.5 midrange for rear running of ID Q450.4. Sub would be a IDQ 10 running off a Q600.1. I could still use factory amp for the center and rear pillars correct? I do like the auto correction of the MS-8. It reminds me of my Denon/Klipsch home setup using the audyessy. But I've never used JBL products.
^ Yep -- you could still use the factory amp to run the 2-3" speakers (if you wish). They probably won't be heard, and may hurt your SQ. I left my center dash speaker in my Ram for Uconnect and navi voice. Without it, the voice was muddled, and difficult to understand (has to do with the way I'm summing). It's really only heard for voice commands/calls. For music, it's not heard because the aftermarket over-powers it by a long shot.
Not sure if this has been posted but a car audio shop here on the westcoast replaced a full audio system in an SRT 8. Check out the link. It includes a playlist. I believe it's about 5 episodes long. It's pretty cool. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=armhMdlpniU&list=PL-vvAVVSNxJhiVNADenbWh_L_i0xxGhwU&index=1
Watching those vids makes me rethink doing anything. Then again those vids look like they leave out a lot of info. Looked like he also ran into some issues but solved them. Ive heard of Sound Man. I watched some of his vids on putting iPads in cars when I had installed an iPad 2 in my maxima.
Joined
·
1,830 Posts
Greetings,
The MS-8 does have a LOC in it for you to sum the signals. In my setup, I come out of the Pioneer AppRadio 3 directly into the MS-8. The MS-8 does what it is designed for. The Logic 7 surround matrix processing, IMO, is far superior than the factory DSP. You do have to play with the MS-8 a little to get right. Once you establish your crossover points, the auto correction works like a charm. The better speakers make it easier for the MS-8 to do it's job.
Best for now.
My SFU should be in next week. I'll be headed in to an audio shop here in Modesto to see what I can do. I just want a little rattle in the cargo area but we'll see how much $$$ it takes.
It's all based on if you have the 9 speaker amplified system. If you have it you have to bypass amp and a lot more work. Without the 9 speaker system you can replace just speakers but fall short running off factory radio. In my 2011 laredo I replaced HU and added my sub no problem. My 2014 limited now is a different story. With the 8.4 you have to leave radio cause it controls Hvac and other stuff.
Joined
·
1,830 Posts
Greetings,
Currently, the best way to get the signal from the 8.4 or 5.0 head units is to tap the signal from the amps or radio depending the system you have. For this, you need a high level convertor, the LOC as it is called. Some of the aftermarket DSP units have them built-in already. The better single component LOC do cost more, however, it is worth it for the clean the signal they give you.
Now you can install the aftermarket amps and speakers to create your desired sound system. For amps, look for the Class D, they more efficient on the JGC electrical power.
You can install new speakers if want as a temporary solution until you get your new aftermarket amps. For the 6 speaker setup look for a sensitivity rating of 90 db or better. This way you will get at least 50% or better of the efficiency of the speaker. With the premium systems, there are to many problems using the factory amp as permeant solution.
The bottom line with the sound system in the JGC to upgrade will cost you. That cost is determined upon the system you install.
Best for now.
Currently, the best way to get the signal from the 8.4 or 5.0 head units is to tap the signal from the amps or radio depending the system you have. For this, you need a high level convertor, the LOC as it is called. Some of the aftermarket DSP units have them built-in already. The better single component LOC do cost more, however, it is worth it for the clean the signal they give you.
Now you can install the aftermarket amps and speakers to create your desired sound system. For amps, look for the Class D, they more efficient on the JGC electrical power.
You can install new speakers if want as a temporary solution until you get your new aftermarket amps. For the 6 speaker setup look for a sensitivity rating of 90 db or better. This way you will get at least 50% or better of the efficiency of the speaker. With the premium systems, there are to many problems using the factory amp as permeant solution.
The bottom line with the sound system in the JGC to upgrade will cost you. That cost is determined upon the system you install.
Best for now.
If you have the OE Alpine system, you need more than a quality LOC. That LOC has to have summing capabilities, otherwise you will not have full-range signal going to your aftermarket amps/speakers. A simple LOC will work if you are only adding a sub+amp. Once you get into replacing speakers, it gets messy.
1 - 20 of 68 Posts
