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2018 GC Summit 4x4
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Those deals are insane. There has to be some sort of catch.

Id trade in my 15 Overland for that 15 Summit. Used Summits with 20-30k miles on them are going for the same price as theirs. You could drive that thing for two years with minimal depreciation.
 

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Those deals are insane. There has to be some sort of catch.

Id trade in my 15 Overland for that 15 Summit. Used Summits with 20-30k miles on them are going for the same price as theirs. You could drive that thing for two years with minimal depreciation.
Yep I could trade my 2015 Cherry Summit with 11,000 miles and get a new ride with a fresh start on the odometer for not much more than what mine is worth now. I like the Auburn the more I see it but I really like my rig too. That price on the SRT almost brings the price down to a fully loaded Hemi Summit so that's a crazy one too.
 

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I just bought a 2015 Overland (white/black) with 14k miles and mint condition (I could not find a single blemish, so brand new condition) for $37.5k. Was pretty happy. Test drove both the V6 & V8 expecting to hate the V6 (I like speed), but was blown away on how well the 6 performed at low speeds. Not as much torque at higher speeds, but that isn't my purpose for this vehicle. Happy with the results.
 

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I (finally) picked up a new '15 Limited Ecodiesel with ORAI, Tow, and Sunroof for exactly $7,000 off MSRP from Smolich Motors in Bend Oregon. Color is Max Steel. Got a quick flight from my home in Montana using miles and made a fun road trip coming back, visiting friends and camping out in a few spots in Oregon and Idaho making the trip totally worth it. The EcoD averaged 31.5 MPGs on the 900 mile return on mostly 2 lane highways and was a delight to drive. Thanks for everyone on this forum helping me with my questions and providing shopping tips over the months leading up to this. I am pleased to report that a happy new owner! This vehicle replaces my '98 Tacoma 4x4 that I owned for 16.5 years!
 

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I (finally) picked up a new '15 Limited Ecodiesel with ORAI, Tow, and Sunroof for exactly $7,000 off MSRP from Smolich Motors in Bend Oregon. Color is Max Steel. Got a quick flight from my home in Montana using miles and made a fun road trip coming back, visiting friends and camping out in a few spots in Oregon and Idaho making the trip totally worth it. The EcoD averaged 31.5 MPGs on the 900 mile return on mostly 2 lane highways and was a delight to drive. Thanks for everyone on this forum helping me with my questions and providing shopping tips over the months leading up to this. I am pleased to report that a happy new owner! This vehicle replaces my '98 Tacoma 4x4 that I owned for 16.5 years!
In my opinion ecodiesel with oraI is the best value. can't believe you found it on a lot.
 

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Okay--here I am again. I ended up with a 2015 Cherokee TH last July and thinking about trading it in the morning for a 2015 Grand Cherokee Limited 4 wheel drive. (new one) My TH has been pretty much trouble free. It listed for $36914 and I am trading for a Limited that lists for $42940. My trade difference is $8,815 OTD. So the Limited lists for $6026 more than my TH. Limited is a 4 wheel drive with trailer tow package, Uconnect 8an radio (and nav), single CD radio (which I wish was not on there) and blind spot and cross path detection. I know the Limited is not trail rated but I am a senior citizen and don't do that anyhow--but I do like 4 wheel drives.

This is Sunday evening so if you have any comments, going to have to make them quickly. I could back out yet as no money has left my pockets but the dealer is getting the Limited from another dealer. (He might scream a little-LOL) Limited has16 miles on it and about a 55 to 60 mile drive to my dealer. If you have owned a Cherokee and a Grand Cherokee maybe you might give your opinion of my dealing. I like the TH but just thought I might like the little larger vehicle and some of the "goodies" on it not on my TH. All comments will be appreciated--thanks
 

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I just picked up a 15 limited 3 weeks ago I paid 39 and change out the door with rebates. It made more sense with me to go with the 15 over 16 due to the warranty. The 15 has a much better warranty than the 16 and being that all that's changed is the shifter if something happens to the drivetrain is rather have the warranty for as long as I can.
 

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Okay--here I am again. I ended up with a 2015 Cherokee TH last July and thinking about trading it in the morning for a 2015 Grand Cherokee Limited 4 wheel drive. (new one) My TH has been pretty much trouble free. It listed for $36914 and I am trading for a Limited that lists for $42940. My trade difference is $8,815 OTD. So the Limited lists for $6026 more than my TH. Limited is a 4 wheel drive with trailer tow package, Uconnect 8an radio (and nav), single CD radio (which I wish was not on there) and blind spot and cross path detection. I know the Limited is not trail rated but I am a senior citizen and don't do that anyhow--but I do like 4 wheel drives.

This is Sunday evening so if you have any comments, going to have to make them quickly. I could back out yet as no money has left my pockets but the dealer is getting the Limited from another dealer. (He might scream a little-LOL) Limited has16 miles on it and about a 55 to 60 mile drive to my dealer. If you have owned a Cherokee and a Grand Cherokee maybe you might give your opinion of my dealing. I like the TH but just thought I might like the little larger vehicle and some of the "goodies" on it not on my TH. All comments will be appreciated--thanks
The Grand Cherokee is bigger, nicer, and more refined. As long as you can afford it, you will likely be very happy.
 

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2018 GC Summit 4x4
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I wouldnt pay 42 for a limited though.

I paid 39k + TTL (so pretty much 42 OTD) for my 2015 Overland with Advanced Tech. Mine is a V6 4x2
 

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I wouldnt pay 42 for a limited though.

I paid 39k + TTL (so pretty much 42 OTD) for my 2015 Overland with Advanced Tech. Mine is a V6 4x2
He isn't really paying 42, he is paying 8k plus a used 2015 cherokee trailhawk. The dealer will put some number on the paperwork, but at a certain point it is all just funny money. If you assume full retail it would be 42 for the new and trade in of 34k. You could also write it up as 38k for the new and 30k trade in....
 

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Which also means he could be paying 4k instead of 8k.

It doesnt matter how the numbers are broken down, the price of the limited is still 42k. If he got the price down to 35 or 36k, he would have much less difference between the price of his trade in and the price of the GC.

I would go look on Carmax and price out what a limited with similar miles is going for. Also look up the KBB value. Utilize these things to negotiate down the price of the Limited rather than paying that price
 

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Which also means he could be paying 4k instead of 8k.

It doesnt matter how the numbers are broken down, the price of the limited is still 42k. If he got the price down to 35 or 36k, he would have much less difference between the price of his trade in and the price of the GC.

I would go look on Carmax and price out what a limited with similar miles is going for. Also look up the KBB value. Utilize these things to negotiate down the price of the Limited rather than paying that price
If he were just buying the Jeep I would agree 100%. When you have a trade thrown into the mix, things get a lot murkier.

Let's say for the sake of argument that he owns his Cherokee outright. He paid $37k for it and it is probably worth something like 30k (20% depreciation - just a guesstimate). The dealer tells him they will give him the new Jeep for his Cherokee + 8k. If he knows that 38k for a limited 4x4 is decent, and 30k trade is OK, that is a good deal. So the number that is really important is the difference between what he feels his Cherokee is worth and what you could buy a limited for outright.

Your advice on looking up KBB, and auto trader are good; but should be applied to both vehicles. Once you have a solid value for both, then you can figure out what differential you are comfortable with. In my experience telling the dealer you want the new Jeep for 38k will just get the trade devalued by 4k as well. Telling the dealer you will pay 4k + Cherokee on the other hand is a much better tactic. Dealer's love to "squeeze the balloon" (ie move money from here to there). A simple bottom line approach almost always short circuits that.
 

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I completely agree and think your response was very well composed.

In situations like this, if I was the one purchasing, I would make it very clear that I want two different transactions done. First negotiate the price of the trade get it in writing once you're comfortable. From there, move on to the GC. Negotiate that vehicle as if you just walked in off the street.

This prevents them from playing any games (well makes it more difficult) and give the purchaser better understanding of the numbers.

If they won't do it like that, go sell the Cherokee to carnax or any other dealership and then walk in there with no trade. You'll have a check in hand and can negotiate the price of the GC alone
 

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Does it matter if you negotiate the trade first? Wouldn't they give you a decent number so you'll buy? Then just not come down on the vehicle so much? I am just asking because I don't really know.

Does CARMAX really give you a good price, better than normal trade? How does it compare with KBB, NADA and Edmund's? I ran mine through all 3 and there's a big difference. KBB is $1000 + lower than Edmund's and NADA is $2000 higher, ($28,000 KBB, $31750 NADA) How am I suppose to figure this out? I look at retail on the lot asking price at $35,000 which jibes on all 3???? I guess they knock off a high of a couple grand to a saavy buyer??? But less if they can. So they're making 3-5 k off my trade??? Man I hate negotiating with a bunch of liars!!!

I could really use some insight into the whole process... HELP!!!
 

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Does it matter if you negotiate the trade first? Wouldn't they give you a decent number so you'll buy? Then just not come down on the vehicle so much? I am just asking because I don't really know.

Does CARMAX really give you a good price, better than normal trade? How does it compare with KBB, NADA and Edmund's? I ran mine through all 3 and there's a big difference. KBB is $1000 + lower than Edmund's and NADA is $2000 higher, ($28,000 KBB, $31750 NADA) How am I suppose to figure this out? I look at retail on the lot asking price at $35,000 which jibes on all 3???? I guess they knock off a high of a couple grand to a saavy buyer??? But less if they can. So they're making 3-5 k off my trade??? Man I hate negotiating with a bunch of liars!!!

I could really use some insight into the whole process... HELP!!!

What state are you in? See if Beepi.com is functional there. They give you a price well above trade in and photograph and list your car on their online platform. Then if your car doesn't sell in 30 days they buy it from you for the given price.

As far as trade in goes, I never tell them I'm trading. I get the price down as low as I can and then work on the trade. Usually trading in works out to be throwing money out the window for convenience though :/
 

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Does it matter if you negotiate the trade first? Wouldn't they give you a decent number so you'll buy? Then just not come down on the vehicle so much? I am just asking because I don't really know.

Does CARMAX really give you a good price, better than normal trade? How does it compare with KBB, NADA and Edmund's? I ran mine through all 3 and there's a big difference. KBB is $1000 + lower than Edmund's and NADA is $2000 higher, ($28,000 KBB, $31750 NADA) How am I suppose to figure this out? I look at retail on the lot asking price at $35,000 which jibes on all 3???? I guess they knock off a high of a couple grand to a saavy buyer??? But less if they can. So they're making 3-5 k off my trade??? Man I hate negotiating with a bunch of liars!!!

I could really use some insight into the whole process... HELP!!!
I have found that searching local dealerships/craigslist/etc is the best way to get a reasonable value. The thing to remember about a dealer is that they are in business to make money (you can't hold that against them). If they give you 30-31k, and list it for 35k; very likely the next guy will kick them down a grand or two. So they take your car, put a little money into cleaning it up, pay interest on it for a month or two, and then make 2-3k.

You can always sell off the rig outright then go buy what you want.
 

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I always utilize carmax as a base for what my vehicle is worth. I have sold 2 different vehicles to them so their pricing isnt always far off. Not to mention, if a dealer is lowballing you on the trade you can show them the carmax form and most time they will match it.

as ETL330 said, avoid telling them youre trading until the end. No matter how you cut it, youre going to want the price of the vehicle youre purchasing to be as low as possible. The easiest way to do that is to not let the numbers get convoluted. Start talking trade, financing, special offers, etc and it gets a lot more difficult to see how the numbers work out.

My advice:
1) Go to carmax and find out what your car is worth
2) Go negotiate down the vehicle that you want (utilize similar vehicles on other lots, carmax inventory, KBB for vehicle value)
3) Negotiate your trade. If they wont give you what carmax will, leave and sell it to someone else. Then come back to them with a check
 

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At this point it may be too late, but about a month ago I got a left over 15 Grand Cherokee Overland 4X4 MSRP $47,985, lease for $429 a month with only $1100 due at signing and they bought me out of my 14 GC lease that still had 9 payments left. Not exactly sure how much I actually paid for the car but if I can find the paper work I will update this.


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At this point it may be too late, but about a month ago I got a left over 15 Grand Cherokee Overland 4X4 MSRP $47,985, lease for $429 a month with only $1100 due at signing and they bought me out of my 14 GC lease that still had 9 payments left. Not exactly sure how much I actually paid for the car but if I can find the paper work I will update this.


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What were the payments on your other vehicle? Take that number and subtract the $1100. Then take that total and deduct it from the MSRP on the paperwork. That would be how much that vehicle cost you. It actually sounds like a great deal
 

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What were the payments on your other vehicle? Take that number and subtract the $1100. Then take that total and deduct it from the MSRP on the paperwork. That would be how much that vehicle cost you. It actually sounds like a great deal

They actually bought me out where I had $900 equity in the 14. So it was $2000 due, but only $1100 out of my pocket. I can't seem to find the paperwork for it but I believe I paid between $39-40k.


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