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Discussion Starter #1
Hello All,

I am looking to replace my OEM shocks because I want better performance and want a 2" lift. I decided to go with springs/shock rather than spacers. Looking around I see OME, Eibach, and Dobinsons offer kits:

OME ~ $1150 (+1.5" front/+2.0" rear)
Eibach ~ $939 (+1.5" front/+0.5" rear)
Dobinsons ~ $1,535 (+1.5 front/+1.5 rear)

I dont understand why the OME have a bias to increasing the front rake. They offer a front trim packer, but not sure if this corrects for the increased rake angle that is inherent with the original configuration let alone the one introduced by making the rears 0.5" taller than the fronts. Why would they design it this way?

Are Dobinsons $500 better than the Eibachs? I dont mind paying for quality if the increase is worth the value.

Thanks,
 

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IF money isn't an issue, then I would pony up for the Dobinson. The reason being they are adjustable, rebuildable and great quality from what I've come across.

I was going that route, but since I have a 14, I am able to use the Bilstein 5100's, along with OME lift coils for half the cost. I'm waiting on my parts to come in and get it installed in the next week or two...hopefully!

RRO sells the OME kit with a spacer to level the front. Yes the trim packer will lift the front as well.


Great choice on not going with crappy spacer lift!!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
IF money isn't an issue, then I would pony up for the Dobinson. The reason being they are adjustable, rebuildable and great quality from what I've come across.

I was going that route, but since I have a 14, I am able to use the Bilstein 5100's, along with OME lift coils for half the cost. I'm waiting on my parts to come in and get it installed in the next week or two...hopefully!

RRO sells the OME kit with a spacer to level the front. Yes the trim packer will lift the front as well.


Great choice on not going with crappy spacer lift!!
The RRO trim packer is actually bundled with the OME kit to level it more but I dont think that it levels it out totally. Also, why would OME sell a kit that has a higher lift in the rear? This is weird.

The Dobinsons come across as better quality over the Eibachs. Maybe it is the nice bling purple anodized collar, thread adjustability, and nice website. But $500 is a huge difference. This would just about fund a Chief Products鈥 rock slider kit.

About a year ago wild have considered spacers, but now I need more than just elevation. I need and want better damping, smooth travel, and just better performance over the stock squishy.
 

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OME maintains the factory rake for people who tow. Not everyone wants their front leveled and that's why they have the trim packer. I've lifted a few vehicles and never leveled the front with rear. I have always kept a slight rake. My guess Eibach will have a slight rake as well.

Dobinson is a better suspension like I said it's adjustable and re-buildable which Eibach is not. So after time like everything else, the struts/shocks will eventually need to be replaced. Cheaper to re-build usually than buying new products.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I am considering getting Dobinsons 300lb spring for the rear to offset loads when I do carry heavy, but I am not always loaded. 95% of the time Im solo driving to work. I am concerned the ride will be to stiff when not loaded. What do you think?
 

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I was contemplating the same thing when I was going Dobinson, but when I called them they recommended staying with the regular load because I wouldn't be towing enough. Basically like you're saying. I'm even staying with OME MD coils front/rear as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Cheyenne71, thanks for you input. I decided for the Eibach leveling kit ultimately. Factors were:

1) Eibach is reputable, racing/offroad experienced
2) Made in USA in my state, and almost local, 4-5 hour drive.
3) $600 less expensive than Dobinsons
4) I like the front 2" (Eibach) over the front 1.5" (Dobinsons)
5) I like the overall suspension attitude: leveling of the eibach vs maintaining the rake of the dobinsons

I considered and acknowledge:

1) I probably wont be tweaking the spring seat collar once installed, set and forget. Eibach, hopefully already has it dialed in
2) If I have shock problems in a couple years and want to rebuild them, I will regret not having the option to rebuild the shock that Dobinsons offers.

Thanks!
 

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Sounds good! Can't wait to see your thoughts on it after install and pics!! Keep us posted. I have a friend, and she wants to level the front. I just seen Eibach makes leveling struts for the front as well so I let her know about that route. She might just say screw it and do the whole lift. Who knows LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #10
That is a good price. On Eibach's site, I estimate you would pay about $676 that pair if the springs were sold as pairs. On their site, the springs are sold as a set of 4 (as of now 7/24/2020).

You realize that JGC 2016+ have the sway bar connected to "tabs" on the shock, not on the LCA, which makes shopping very particular for my WK2 year onward.

I will update with pics for sure when I get them installed. I will be doing the work myself. It doesnt look too hard.
 

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Yeah I know about the changes with the 2016+ The kit I posted is the same kit you'll need, unless you have the towing shocks. All four coils, front struts and rear shocks for that price.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Google swapped numbers on me. Edited to delete.
Is there an updated link?
I took a peek at it yesterday, and at first glance it didnt look like it would fit my JGC that is why I mentioned my year to clarify. I was thinking you gave me a link for one that fits yours instead. I did a cost comparison based on this assumption.

The p/n for the kit is E80-51-021-01-22 (for non self-leveling MY 2016+) and is going for $939 directly from Eibach, +$15 shipping, tax not included.

At Amazon for the same p/n, is out of stock and costs more $1049 (Prime delivery).
 

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No. A buddy showed me it was wrong. I never knew google swapped numbers on me. I try to find it cheaper or somewhere with discount code, but nothing.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well, parts arrived today and started the project.
I am taking my time with this one. Finessing the job rather than muscling through it. First time through is a learning process.
I was making decent progress to the point where I needed to remove the top spring perch, then realized I do not have the right tools. I thought the harbor freight go-thru socket set would work, but it didnt.
I need to track down the right socket. I think they call it a Strut Nut Socket (18mm).
Does anyone have any ideas about this?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Welp, now the problem is how the heck do you remove the spring perch from the OEM shock. It is a rubber lower spring perch that will not slide over the end cap (at the top) of the shock. The shock tube cap is a larger diameter than the rubber spring perch.

This is a roller coaster.
I am not able to find an OEM replacement for these spring perches. If my back is against the wall, I might just cut the OEM shock in half and slip the older perches off. I understand these are pressurized, so maybe I should drill a small hole first before cutting into them.

Any help guys, or what do you think?

Thanks
 

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The guy swaps in Bilstein 4600's. I've heard the hardest part was pulling the axle to get the strut out or back in. I won't mess with the front because of that. I've seen guys saying getting it out and back in to be a major pain. The video is below

youtube
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Update: Ive come to a morale boosting milestone. Ive complete the front driver corner. I had to destroy the oem shock to harvest the spring perch and move to the new strut assembly. Before I felt comfortable doing so, I needed to have a solution for the strut nut and I wanted to know that there was an oem shock available for purchase as my avenue of retreat. Cutting the oem strut in half to get the spring perch is a point of no return.
It turns out that if you compress the spring enough the top hat will sit fully and with an impact wrench you can spin the strut nut on sufficiently (it is low torque setting). Note that the link showing the use of the go-through socket works for taking it off, but the eibach nut uses what looks like an 8mm double-D nut. As resource abundant as the SF bay area is, I could not locate this specialty socket.

To me the axle removal and replacement was not as hard as what others have reported. I used an angle nail puller/lever to pop out the axle. There is a snap/retaining ring that give some resistance when trying to take out.
The uncertainty of what to do about the spring perch and seeing the strut nut and not having anticipated these bridges let alone having worked this into a plan of attack is what stressed me out. A good night sleep helped in this regard.

Sadly, one bummer moment is whenI torqued off one of the three top strut mounting bolts. My torque wrench glitched. I will have to revisit this another day.
 

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Hopefully you get it finished with no more issues. I actually bought new strut mounts and rubber isolators so I don't need the OEM taken apart.
 
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