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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.6 - Custom Air Intake, 3 Bar MAP Sensor, Oil Catch Can Custom Air Intake

www.youtube.com/watch?v=uSuUgfskwng

Custom Air Intake Parts

5037540AB - Jeep Grand Cherokee SRT Air Duct
5037566AA - Jeep Grand Cherokee SRT Hose Clamp
5038465AE - Jeep Grand Cherokee SRT Hose Clamp
2812 - Vibrant Polished Aluminum Tube w/ 30* Bend - Legs cut down to fit.
Stainless Steel Hose Clamps - 2 each
Silicone Reducer, 45* Bend - 3.0” to 3.5” - Black - Drilled hole for IAT sensor.

3 Bar MAP Sensor Conversion - This mod is for a future rear mount turbo modification.
5149056AA - Dodge Caliber 3 Bar MAP Sensor - will use this sensor when I do the RMT.
5033310AB - Dodge Caliber 1 Bar (Naturally Aspirated) MAP Sensor - currently running this sensor.
PRO-3BMA - Prodigy Performance MAP Sensor Adapter

Oil Catch Can
Billet Technology Catch Can Conversion Kit for 3.6L 2015-2021 Jeep and Durango with Matte Black Finish, Color Match Ends, and Black Braided Hose.
 

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Does the 3.6 need an oil catch can? I've not really seen any issues with carbon buildup in these motors, but honestly I don't know a lot about it.

Pretty cool intake build, great job.
 

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2020 Jeep Grand Cherokee Summit 3.6L 4x2
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Our 2020 V6 has put about 5ozs of oil in our Billet Technologr Catch Can over 7600 miles
 

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Mine catches a lot of oil. Kind of amazing how much it pulls out.
What I'm wondering though, is that really a problem for that oil to cycle back into the intake in these engines? Legit question because I really don't know much about these engines yet. I'm coming from an Audi before this, which had direct-port injection, resulting in frequent carbon buildup issues (as the fuel doesn't spray/clean the valves like on a traditional EFI engine, so a catch-can is helpful on those cars for sure). Does the 3.6 have direct port injection?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
What I'm wondering though, is that really a problem for that oil to cycle back into the intake in these engines? Legit question because I really don't know much about these engines yet. I'm coming from an Audi before this, which had direct-port injection, resulting in frequent carbon buildup issues (as the fuel doesn't spray/clean the valves like on a traditional EFI engine, so a catch-can is helpful on those cars for sure). Does the 3.6 have direct port injection?
The pentastar does not have direct injection. It has port injection.

Oil cycling back into your intake is an emission device. Your crank case needs to be vented, but it cannot be vented to the atmosphere because the venting will release pollutants into the air.

It is vented/pulled into your intake track to burn it during the normal combustion cycle.

This oil/air mixture takes up the space of just air/oxygen, so you will be getting less air pulled into the combustions chamber to burn.

This oil/air mixture also doesn't burn as good as clean air, so engine performance is not optimized.

Over the course of many years, the oil/air mixture that is introduced into the intake will coat the inside of the intake manifold with an oil film. It could also cause carbon build up on the valves which can reduce engine performance over time. Carbon buildup on the back of the valve is not as bad as a DI engine, but over time, it can still happen.

Dave
 

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Great explanation, thanks!
 
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Procharged 2020 Jeep Grand Cherokee Trailhawk, 5.7 Hemi
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Picture, Don't forget to post some picture of your progress. (y)

Just to add to your list:
Mopar 5033224AB - 2003 - 2005 Neon SRT-4, 2.4L Turbo, 2 Bar MAP Sensor.

I am running this on my ProCharged 5.7 Hemi @ 7 PSI.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Picture, Don't forget to post some picture of your progress. (y)

Just to add to your list:
Mopar 5033224AB - 2003 - 2005 Neon SRT-4, 2.4L Turbo, 2 Bar MAP Sensor.

I am running this on my ProCharged 5.7 Hemi @ 7 PSI.

I don’t know if that part number will work with the manifold and prodigy performance adapter
 

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Procharged 2020 Jeep Grand Cherokee Trailhawk, 5.7 Hemi
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I don’t know if that part number will work with the manifold and prodigy performance adapter
Nope, you are correct. They mount differently.

The parts numbers you are using has bayonet style lock with a single bolt to keep it from turning, where mine number uses two bolts only to keep it in place.
 

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I put catch cans on both sides of my 2014 3.6. The one on the throttle body side gets probably 90% of the schmultz. Probably something in my particular engine, but that's how it is for me. They do help quite a bit. Atomized oil really messes with your octane rating and causes gunk build up in the intake. Up to you if you think you need it, but I'll be putting cans on anything I buy going forward. I couldn't believe the goo I got out of it the first few times I drained it. Oh! I picked up Morosso catch cans. Roughly 110 each. There are ones in the 20-40 range, but they just didn't look like they'd help that much.
 

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2014 JGC Limited 3.6 V6 Alpine Sound, Deep Pearl Blue
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I put catch cans on both sides of my 2014 3.6. The one on the throttle body side gets probably 90% of the schmultz. Probably something in my particular engine, but that's how it is for me. They do help quite a bit. Atomized oil really messes with your octane rating and causes gunk build up in the intake. Up to you if you think you need it, but I'll be putting cans on anything I buy going forward. I couldn't believe the goo I got out of it the first few times I drained it. Oh! I picked up Morosso catch cans. Roughly 110 each. There are ones in the 20-40 range, but they just didn't look like they'd help that much.
What do you order? What's there to installing them?
Thanks.
 

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I got two of these:
When I ordered them, they were 140 each (looked at the actual order), now they're 163.51 on the page. Worth it, in my opinion. At least the passenger's side, for me.
Ditched the mounting brackets and used an aluminum bar I cut to size to mount them. Passenger side screwed into the two open screw points above the computer. Driver's side, I self-tapped into the frame over the radiator. Hoses were super easy in both cases and I should probably just post pics of how I did it. Much easier than explaining it all in words. Since I'm measuring my dipstick tomorrow (probably) for another thread, I'll do this too.

I wanted one with a drain plug, and I ran tubing from the drain out the bottom of the engine cover so I can just flip the valve and everything goes away. Yes, if I'm home, I put a pan underneath. Not saying I haven't done a drain or three where I might not have been supposed to though. Sorry? Ish?

It is a bit mind boggling how much goo comes out sometimes. I definitely drain every oil change, but I usually try to do it every 2k-3k miles. Cans haven't been full normally, but there were a couple of times in the winter where I got chocolate milk that had to have totally filled the can and then some out. Sometimes I get a ton out, usually it's just a tablespoon or three in 2K. If I'm towing, I do it every gas fill up, and that's when it really shines. I've had the can fill up in a single tank of gas if I'm towing in the mountains. If you tow, there's no way I'd run without 2 of these.

Like I said earlier, every car I buy from now on is getting a catch can for each PCV port. I'm putting them on any vehicle I work on (girlfriend, her daughter, mom, etc). I've standardized on these Moroso's, but there's a ton of options out there. When I did this in 2015 (for my 2014), there were either the junky $20 or the $300-500 range racing ones for the most part. I've used a ton of Moroso parts in the past when I've built enigines and never had a problem, which is why I went with these. Plus they had all the features I was looking for at a reasonable price. A good filtering system with a quality drain on them. I wanted one with a sight tube on it, but all the reviews said those things leak over time, so I skipped them. Mine have been installed since 2015 and I haven't had a single problem with anything, nor does it feel like I'll have a problem going forward. Oh, I have 150K on it now, going strong.

May take me 2 days to update this. I'll try to do it tomorrow, but no promises.
 

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Haven't tried attaching pics before, so let's see how this goes.

Both sides used a bar of aluminum stock I had laying around to mount. I removed the supplied brackets and reused the screws. Just marked it, cut it, drilled it, and attached it.

Passenger side pcv tube is a short one almost behind the throttle body. Pull the throttle body off and life is good. Driver's side connects to the air cleaner box.

Passenger side can mounted to the two open nuts over the computer. Left side hose is intake for the can, right side return to the engine. I deliberately left the barb on the return vertical to help catch that last little bit. I don't remember the bolt size. Metric for sure. M8x25, I think. You can pop the retaining nut off easily and take it into the store with you to get the proper size. There's a small hard pipe joining the pcv and the intake. The proper hose for the can is the proper outside diameter to just plug into where the pipe was. Hose clamps all around. Quick and easy.

Driver side was even easier. Pulled the original hard pipe out of the air cleaner box, used a piece of hose I had in my stash to join the hard pipe and some other hose I had laying around to make the loop (the kit comes with most of what you need). Used a few self tapping screws to mount it above the radiator. 2 would probably have been fine, I used 3 because that's how I roll. There's enough length with proper slope that I didn't need to leave the return on the can vertical. The hose from the engine goes around the back of the air cleaner, the return routes back into the front nicely. I stuck a couple inches of the new return hose through the adapter so it enters a bit above the air filter instead of being right at the edge of the box. I get almost zero gunk on the top of my air filter.

Drain hoses go out the bottom, I routed and ziptied them in handy places after popping a couple of holes for them in the pan. If I were to do it again, I might route both drains to the same place instead of one on each side. Just easier to put a pan in one spot. I'll probably do that to mine. Eventually. Oh, who am I kidding. It doesn't irritate me enough to change it, but if I was starting from scratch, I'd do it.

If you tow, get 2 cans and put them in. Pulling in the mountains at altitude, I can feel when the passenger side fills up usually. The engine starts losing power and just feels wheezy. I pull over, drain everything, and keep going. You'll know what I mean if it happens to you. Everything is fine, then you need more throttle to just keep going all of a sudden.

Even if you don't tow, I'd recommend them. I think you'll be surprised at how much goo you catch.

If anything is unclear, let me know.
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Hood Vehicle Automotive exterior
Hood Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive exterior Steering wheel
Motor vehicle Car Vehicle Hood Automotive exterior
 

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Lately I have been draining about 6 oz. of condensation from my can every 1000 miles.
Usually I get 2 to 4 oz. of oil every 5000 miles at oil change.
 

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2014 JGC Limited 3.6 V6 Alpine Sound, Deep Pearl Blue
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Haven't tried attaching pics before, so let's see how this goes.

Both sides used a bar of aluminum stock I had laying around to mount. I removed the supplied brackets and reused the screws. Just marked it, cut it, drilled it, and attached it.

Passenger side pcv tube is a short one almost behind the throttle body. Pull the throttle body off and life is good. Driver's side connects to the air cleaner box.

Passenger side can mounted to the two open nuts over the computer. Left side hose is intake for the can, right side return to the engine. I deliberately left the barb on the return vertical to help catch that last little bit. I don't remember the bolt size. Metric for sure. M8x25, I think. You can pop the retaining nut off easily and take it into the store with you to get the proper size. There's a small hard pipe joining the pcv and the intake. The proper hose for the can is the proper outside diameter to just plug into where the pipe was. Hose clamps all around. Quick and easy.

Driver side was even easier. Pulled the original hard pipe out of the air cleaner box, used a piece of hose I had in my stash to join the hard pipe and some other hose I had laying around to make the loop (the kit comes with most of what you need). Used a few self tapping screws to mount it above the radiator. 2 would probably have been fine, I used 3 because that's how I roll. There's enough length with proper slope that I didn't need to leave the return on the can vertical. The hose from the engine goes around the back of the air cleaner, the return routes back into the front nicely. I stuck a couple inches of the new return hose through the adapter so it enters a bit above the air filter instead of being right at the edge of the box. I get almost zero gunk on the top of my air filter.

Drain hoses go out the bottom, I routed and ziptied them in handy places after popping a couple of holes for them in the pan. If I were to do it again, I might route both drains to the same place instead of one on each side. Just easier to put a pan in one spot. I'll probably do that to mine. Eventually. Oh, who am I kidding. It doesn't irritate me enough to change it, but if I was starting from scratch, I'd do it.

If you tow, get 2 cans and put them in. Pulling in the mountains at altitude, I can feel when the passenger side fills up usually. The engine starts losing power and just feels wheezy. I pull over, drain everything, and keep going. You'll know what I mean if it happens to you. Everything is fine, then you need more throttle to just keep going all of a sudden.

Even if you don't tow, I'd recommend them. I think you'll be surprised at how much goo you catch.

If anything is unclear, let me know. View attachment 237990 View attachment 237991 View attachment 237992
Haven't tried attaching pics before, so let's see how this goes.

Both sides used a bar of aluminum stock I had laying around to mount. I removed the supplied brackets and reused the screws. Just marked it, cut it, drilled it, and attached it.

Passenger side pcv tube is a short one almost behind the throttle body. Pull the throttle body off and life is good. Driver's side connects to the air cleaner box.

Passenger side can mounted to the two open nuts over the computer. Left side hose is intake for the can, right side return to the engine. I deliberately left the barb on the return vertical to help catch that last little bit. I don't remember the bolt size. Metric for sure. M8x25, I think. You can pop the retaining nut off easily and take it into the store with you to get the proper size. There's a small hard pipe joining the pcv and the intake. The proper hose for the can is the proper outside diameter to just plug into where the pipe was. Hose clamps all around. Quick and easy.

Driver side was even easier. Pulled the original hard pipe out of the air cleaner box, used a piece of hose I had in my stash to join the hard pipe and some other hose I had laying around to make the loop (the kit comes with most of what you need). Used a few self tapping screws to mount it above the radiator. 2 would probably have been fine, I used 3 because that's how I roll. There's enough length with proper slope that I didn't need to leave the return on the can vertical. The hose from the engine goes around the back of the air cleaner, the return routes back into the front nicely. I stuck a couple inches of the new return hose through the adapter so it enters a bit above the air filter instead of being right at the edge of the box. I get almost zero gunk on the top of my air filter.

Drain hoses go out the bottom, I routed and ziptied them in handy places after popping a couple of holes for them in the pan. If I were to do it again, I might route both drains to the same place instead of one on each side. Just easier to put a pan in one spot. I'll probably do that to mine. Eventually. Oh, who am I kidding. It doesn't irritate me enough to change it, but if I was starting from scratch, I'd do it.

If you tow, get 2 cans and put them in. Pulling in the mountains at altitude, I can feel when the passenger side fills up usually. The engine starts losing power and just feels wheezy. I pull over, drain everything, and keep going. You'll know what I mean if it happens to you. Everything is fine, then you need more throttle to just keep going all of a sudden.

Even if you don't tow, I'd recommend them. I think you'll be surprised at how much goo you catch.

If anything is unclear, let me know. View attachment 237990 View attachment 237991 View attachment 237992
Thanks so much for all your effort in getting this information posted. Nice work.
 
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