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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I had been adding my posts of my car project speaker upgrades in another members original posting, and figured it's time to stop hijacking their thread and create my own.

My JGC Altitude which I purchased in late November came with the Uconnect 8.4 4C NAV (UAQ) w/basic six speaker (non-amplified) setup. And while it sounded "ok" I wanted more. I started with a Kicker Hideaway, but that wasn't quite enough - so I ditched it and went with the setup as described below.

Here are the parts I added/installed:

  • KilMat Sound Deadening Inside Panels / Top Panels on all Four Doors
  • All Six Stock Speakers Replaced with Infinity Kappa Speakers:
  • Tweeters: Infinity Kappa 10.11t
  • Front 6x9: Infinity Kappa 693.11i
  • Rear 6.5": Infinity Kappa 62.11i
  • Metra 72-6514 Connectors (x2) to avoid splicing into OEM wiring on door speakers
  • JL 12w1v3-4 12" x2 subs running in parallel in downwared firing sealed box (found on Offerup in good condition for a great price)
  • Kenwood 5 channel KAC-M8005 Amplifier (75w x4 @ 2 OHM / 500w x1 @ 2 OHM)
  • JL Audio FIX-86
  • JL Audio TWK-88
  • Wire Harness SO-SOT-2050-j (from ebay) installed behind headunit (to avoid spicing into OEM wiring)
  • High Density Foam added around each door speaker to help "marry" speaker to door panel and direct sound to inside cabin
  • Speedwire (9 wire) used to route speaker wire down from headunit source to storage area under drivers seat (where aftermarket equipment lives) and back from under same location to behind headunit back into harness, which then goes out to all the speakers.
  • JL Audio Inline "Load Sensing Adapter" added so uconnect doesn't turn off speakers / put speakers in to protect mode, when it doesn't detect speaker resistance/connection
  • Lots of cabling, solder, tools, gizmos and other things to get the job done.

I have some right angle RCA connectors on order as I realized late on Sunday when I was wrapping everything up that the FIX 86 and TWK 88 would not fit all the way in when all the RCA's were plugged in - I also was one RCA cable short so I had to borrow one from my home stereo until the replacement one comes in the mail. I also still have to permanently place the dual control knob that comes with the TWK-88 (master volume and subwoofer volume) somewhere near my uconnect console - just have not decided where to install it yet - right now it's shoved in loosely where my USB ports /12v power connecter are located under the headunit/heater controls.

I still have some additional work to do including sound deadening / identifying and removing rattle troublespots in rear cargo area (and now that the JL's are running I have noticed there are ALOT Of rattles), but the major lift has been completed.

This was a huge learning process - but i think it was worth it. I'm not sure if the FIX86 was totally necessary, as the line levels looked pretty normalized when I ran the calibration - but it's in there now, so whatever :)

I get to keep the look and feel of the original UCONNECT and have all my original functionality working.

Sure the Sub box is massive and takes up room, but it's as simple as disconnecting two speaker wires if I want to go camping. I may end up adding a JL Stealthbox 10" woofer down the road to fill out those 100Hz frequencies that seem so elusive (and to have some bass when the sub box is removed), but that's an install much much further down the road.

This all took about the equivalent of three LONG weekends to get installed.

I would say the total cost was around $1,400?

Attached are some pictures of the work as it was in progress...
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
And the remainder of the pictures...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Lastly - the sub box when it is in place. I like the detailed work the person who owned this before me did, but I think it's just a little to "seahawks-y" for me. I like the Seahawks as I live near Seattle, but I'll probably paint it a darker color or put some vinyl wrap over the blue and green.

My stereo goes to 11 now :)

P.S. There is no voltage dropping or dimming of lights when the bass is thumping - and it thumps, I mean it REALLY thumps.
 

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Re: 2018 JGC Altitude Six Speaker Upgrade to Infinity Kappa & JL Subs Complete

Install looks nice.

But what is the reason for running both the fix-86 and the twk-88?

Is there a reason not to run just the fix-86 to just sum the channels to eliminate the bass reduction the oe hu does on volume increase? The twk-88 seems like much more then id be concerned about with tuning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Re: 2018 JGC Altitude Six Speaker Upgrade to Infinity Kappa & JL Subs Complete

Install looks nice.

But what is the reason for running both the fix-86 and the twk-88?

Is there a reason not to run just the fix-86 to just sum the channels to eliminate the bass reduction the oe hu does on volume increase? The twk-88 seems like much more then id be concerned about with tuning.
Thanks for the compliment on the install.

I've done more since then - primarily locking down the DSP's so they fit better, added a 120mm fan for exhaust, and sound deadened the roof, rear hatch, and cargo area lid that goes over the spare tire.

Here is a link for the entire photo/video album of my upgrade project:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/xuG5Sa4pqP8dNXs89

As for your question - I wanted to signal correct the sound coming from the Uconnect headunit as well as sum the signals for my needs. However, I also wanted the flexability of the additional parametric EQ settings, speaker distances, additional filtering, etc. that the TWK provides. I debated quite a bit going either for just a FIX or just a TWK - but after lots of reviews and comparisons of the two, playing with the TUN software myself I was leaning towards having both. Then I found a fantastic price from creative audio (who is an authorized JL reseller) for refurbished units. After that, the decision wasn't too hard to decide to have both - I think the cost came down to $469 for both after finding a 10% off coupon - which was $70 dollars more than buying a brand new TWK-88 alone (MSRP of $399).
 

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Great write up!
 
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Wow- great write up and thanks for the pictures, gives me great ideas. I got my '15 Altitude back towards end '14 so there weren't many (if any) harnesses available. Had an installer wire mini amps under back seat and I have replaced everything since then. I'm using an Audio Control DQ-61 now. I originally chose this because 1, i got a deal and it was alot cheaper and 2, because I didn't want to have a separate master volume. Obviously it doesn't have nearly as many adjustments as the JL Fix 86 (and very limited time alignment) but it's getting the job done for now. So my question is, do you use your Uconnect volume or the JL volume? Also, do you notice a change in factory equalization as you adjust volume? I have accubass, but don't use it because I can't discern any bass roll-off at higher volumes. I was thinking about getting Fix 86 or the Rockford Fosgate DSR1- but again, the seperate volume bugs me. Any insight is greatly appreciated.

Couple other questions- any reason you didn't mount amps and processors under rear seat? I only ask because maybe there is a reason I should move my stuff from under there that I didn't think of. I have clearance with seats folded.

-how hard was it to break the seal around the inner door panel to put the sound deadner in? I couldn't break the seal without excessive force and I didn't want to break anything so- as dumb as it sounds- I painstakingly went through the speaker opening and that small rear hatch. Took forever and many forearm cuts trying to turn and twist my arm into places that my arm shouldn't be able to bend. lol

-With all the added weight of the sound deadening, do your doors still stay open on even the slightest incline? My doors are very sensitive now- have to open them all the way and even then a slight wind blow and they want to close- just wondering if that problem is just happening to me or is it common to others that have added weight to the doors?


Thanks and thanks again for the write up and pics- super clean.

P.S. I had trouble with lack of 100hz- (I have a single '12 American Bass XFL in a large ported enclosure being fed 1500 watts RMS- she hits low, but does not like to be crossed over too high). What worked for me was putting acoustic baffles and not opening the back. Absolutely kills any lower bass coming from the front speakers, but boosted my upper mid -bass. This may not work for you because if you take out your box, you won't have any lower end at all. The Stealth box is too pricey for me to just use when I need space- plus, as nice as it is and sounds- it won't take my amp or put out the volume of bass that my bleeding ears are accustomed to on a daily bases. My solution was I have a small sealed box. Anytime I temporarily need more room and have to remove the big box, I throw in the small box and it doesn't take up much room. It may be a pain, but i refuse to drive without any bass at all. lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Wow- great write up and thanks for the pictures, gives me great ideas.
Thanks! My goal was to help others and spur conversation...so I was happy to do it.

Do you use your Uconnect volume or the JL volume?
I'm using the JL volume as much as possible. It's a bit of a pain because my Uconnect volume resets to "20" each time I turn the jeep on and I calibrated the FIX-86 at "30" - so ya, that's not ideal. However, now that I'm typing this - maybe I'll try recalibrating the FIX86 with the uconnect volume at 20 - then I don't have to worry changing the uconnect volume each time I start the jeep. I'm not sure if the system will get as loud if I have the master uconnect volume turned down a bit though - I will investigate and report back!

I actually mounted the JL volume knob right next to the uconnect volume. I was very hesitant to place it there - but the hole I had to drill was very small and could easily be filled in with some black apoxy if I ever needed to - it's probably half the width of a pencil. The reason I went with the knob where I put it was just about anywhere else seemed unnatural for me being able to use the JL Knob conveniently. My previous setup I had the bass gain inside my media hub area (where the USB / cigarette ports are) but it was inconvienent to have to open the door up (especially if I had coffee in the drink holder, etc) and angle my wrist around my gear shifter to turn the knob (it was mounted on the left hand side). I like to rest my hand on top of the shift lever so it's a natural motion now to reach for the volume/bass control where it's so close to the regular volume knob (I attached a picture here). I've looked around online for a dual concentric knobs that are a closer match to my other knobs, or something that looks nicer than plastic, but so far have not come up with a solution I am ready to move on/purchase. The LED from the JL remote was way too bright, so I ended up mounting the LED on the bottom side of my steering wheel. It provides a nice little accent light facing down towards my legs, or if I switch JL sound profiles (I generally just try and have one profile) then I can just place my hand in the air below my steering wheel and see the color of the LED on the back of my hand. I'm going with an all "blue" theme for secondary lights in my jeep to match the built in accent lights that came with the jeep (the door pockets and door handles specifically). I also bought a blue LED 120mm fan for exhaust for my storage area where the AMP and DSP's live to help round out the theme. Heck even the uconnect display has a blue theme which I like - ha..now that i think about it, so does my radar detector...blue everywhere! :) I attached a photo to show where I mounted it.

Do you notice a change in factory equalization as you adjust volume?
I have indeed. There is a big difference in the tuning of the built in EQ at volume 20 vs volume 30 on the uconnect. However, Is it enough to have my keep using the JL volume instead of the jeep master uconnect volume? So far, but I have only had this setup for a few months now and I may play around with it some more. I do miss using the volume control on the steering wheel now that I am trying to use the JL knob exclusively.

I have accubass, but don't use it because I can't discern any bass roll-off at higher volumes.
I think you are right on this. I was very surprised to see my before and after results when I calibrated the signal output using the FIX 86 the first time. There seemed to be no huge bass rolloff at volume 30 where I did the calibration at. The was only a very small correction I could see the JL FIX attempting to do. I may have some pre-post images somewhere I can post. But I think I'll do some more calibrations again when I get my 2nd USB cable delivered. When I saw the fact that there was not a lot of correction going on, I wondered if the FIX was even really necessary at that point, as originally I hadn't bought it - only the TWK 88, and I was going to use a AudioControl LC7i instead but I wanted the signal summing too, which the AudioControl seemed to be not exactly the type of summing I was looking for. The FIX does have other benefits and I bought mine refurbished...and it was already installed by that point - so, long story short, I kept it - but if I was on a budget and had to do it all over again, I could easily see with not going with one in the future when used with Uconnect 8.4

I was thinking about getting Fix 86 or the Rockford Fosgate DSR1- but again, the separate volume bugs me.
Ya, it's a conundrum alright! Someone needs to make something like a FIX86 that does calibration in realtime no matter what volume level it's getting from the headunit. That would solve that issue - but it's still nice to have a seperate control for the BASS, music production is so widely varied, there is no "one size fits all" when it comes to bass output.

Any reason you didn't mount amps and processors under rear seat?
Originally I had a kicker hideaway under my drivers seat - so I was already comfortable with how to take out the front seats and how to pass the wiring between the drivers side and the passenger side for power. I also liked the short distance for wiring from my headunit to my aftermarket equipment, and from the AMP to battery. I also had done some measuring and it seemed like everything would fit almost perfectly in my unused storage compartment under my drivers seat - all stealthy. I wouldn't have to see any wires or equipment poking out from under seats, and the rear seats were one less thing I would have to take out of my vehicle during the install. I've seen some really good installs below the rear seats or attached to the rear seats backside. For me, this was just a personal choice along with not loosing any open space what so ever inside the jeep. I didn't even realize I had this empty cubby hole until I started reading on these forums after I bought my jeep.

How hard was it to break the seal around the inner door panel to put the sound deadener in?
The inner door panel was just held in place with bolts and little rotating locks. There was no seal to break for me. But it did take some time to figure out how to release the window from the guide/regulator. I ended up taking the front windows out completely, but by the time I got to the rear doors, I realized I could just disconnect the window from the regulator/guide then just tape the window in the "closed" position using some gorrilla tape and it would not be in the way when I put the deadening in. There were also the metal connectors for the door locks/handles, bot those were pretty easy to disconnect/reconnect as well. All in all, it was well worth taking the door down to it's shell to get the deadener installed correctly. I attached a picture to show where the bolts and connectors are.

With all the added weight of the sound deadening, do your doors still stay open on even the slightest incline?
I have not noticed much of a difference, but the deadener I used for the doors was 50mil - looking back, I would have used NVX 90mil, as I did for my roof, if I had to do the whole thing over again. But really, while the door feels slightly heaver, and has a nice thunk when I open it and close it, I dont really notice any negatives with the deadener on there. I find the door hits the right "stop" points when I open it still and dont have to hold the door open with my foot if I'm parked too close to another car, as I have had to do with some other vehicles before. Hope that makes sense and answers the question?

P.S. I had trouble with lack of 100hz- (I have a single '12 American Bass XFL in a large ported enclosure being fed 1500 watts RMS- she hits low, but does not like to be crossed over too high). What worked for me was putting acoustic baffles and not opening the back. Absolutely kills any lower bass coming from the front speakers, but boosted my upper mid -bass. This may not work for you because if you take out your box, you won't have any lower end at all. The Stealth box is too pricey for me to just use when I need space- plus, as nice as it is and sounds- it won't take my amp or put out the volume of bass that my bleeding ears are accustomed to on a daily bases. My solution was I have a small sealed box. Anytime I temporarily need more room and have to remove the big box, I throw in the small box and it doesn't take up much room. It may be a pain, but i refuse to drive without any bass at all. lol
Solid advice - appreciate it. I'm not sure what I'm going to do long term. I feel like the Kappa's should be putting out more mid-bass for sure. My friend solved his 100Hz / Mid bass issue by adding some 10's in a box on top of his 12's that were specifically tuned to just hit around 80-140hz. I really don't want to go that route and sacrifice even more cargo space on my daily commutes. I heard from someone else that the JL stealthbox is more designed for the lower end and would not help with the midbass issue. I'm wondering if there is some shallow mount (e.g. pickup truck style box) sealed boxes I could put a couple of 8's or something in and have enough room to put them under the rear seats? It's gonna be a while before invest more major labor or dollars into this project - so there is time to let the proper solution manifest itself. Besides, I still feel like I have a lot of tuning to do with my DSP now that the roof is done - that in itself takes some time. I couldn't even enjoy my system when i turned it up before due to the massive resonating roof issue I was having. Roof issue is now totally gone. I have a few small rattles to chase down, but nothing as severe as it was before.

Thanks again for responding! Glad it's helping spur some ideas for folks!
 

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Greetings,

The JL Audio Fix products are the updated from their award winning Cleansweep line that set the standard that many other manufactures tried to accomplish without interfering with the JL Audio's patent. In my previous post thru out the years, I always called this the washing machine effect for OE Headunits and factory amps.

In short, the major priority the Fix is geared for, to take the OE HU or factory amp signal at both low and high volume and make sure that the loudness compensation EQ is calibrated correctly. At lower levels, OE systems tend to boost the Eq for bass & treble without us knowing it. When it is at higher level, it really does not matter. So, with the FIX running at lower levels, a flat eq response is generated. When you add a DSP next, now you can really fine tune the system. If anybody has roughly 25 minutes to spare, JL Audio has an excellent video you can watch on YouTube about the Cleansweep which the Fix is based upon. ( Try not to fall a:sleepy:)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HqNJlM2CH9w

The first of six chapters. Somebody out on YouTube did combine all 6 together, but I cannot find it any longer.

IMO, the OP has done excellent job in designing and accomplishing the upgrade. :thumbsup:


Best for now.:)
 

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Thanks for the tips. I think they may have made a few changes on the inner door panels from '15 to '18. On mine, there is some sort glue or caulking around the entire perimeter of the plastic inner panel, so even removing the bolts and turning the green tabs wasn't enough to get it off without breaking the seal.

-You are definitely right about the roof vibrations- drives me nuts (more so because i have a sunroof and have no way to cure the vibrations of the opening). If you ever see the YouTube video of the plant making our Jeeps, you'll see how thin that panel is when they show it being welded to the top. Heck, all you have to do is wax the roof and see how little pressure you need to push the metal in. Anyway, if you are having problems with the sun-glass holder vibrating, I took out the black foam inside the door and put sound deadening and then glued a black velvet cloth to it to protect sunglasses and make it look stock. That helped, but when I put some black foam between the headliner and the edge of the back of the overhead console (where the overhead console ends, near the windshield header) , that killed the vibration completely.

-As for tuning your system to get it right, I feel you. It could take months and after you think you have it right, you get a wild hair up your butt and want to adjust things because you know it can get it even better. lol Those 6x9's should be giving you good 100hz tones. What do you have them crossed at? I'm using older (but i won't get rid of them because they sound awesome) Boston Acoustics 6.5 inch components. I realize they are different from yours, but if I cross mine too low, they lose alot in the midbass dept. Maybe that won't help you, but I figured I'd try. lol-maybe it helps someone reading this? Oh, and those acoustic baffles, only 10 bucks for 2. If they don't work, you can still use them to protect your speakers from moisture- just cut out bottoms to bring back lower bass.

If you're dead set on getting a separate sub for mid-bass, you could always move your amp to under rear seat and stick a custom mounted sub under your drivers seat. For sure you won't have space under rear seat for speakers- space gets even smaller when you flip seats down (bottom cushion lowers).


One thing that threw me was you mentioned one of the reasons you chose the JL was for signal summing. Did they change something in Uconnect? My '15 has a full range signal from both front and back channels. I ask this because someone had a right up that said the rear speakers had some sort of filtering below 100hz, which for my particular Altitude is not true.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I think they may have made a few changes on the inner door panels from '15 to '18. On mine, there is some sort glue or caulking around the entire perimeter of the plastic inner panel, so even removing the bolts and turning the green tabs wasn't enough to get it off without breaking the seal.
There is a rubber liner that runs around the inside perimeter of the inner panel on the 2018 - but it's just a cushion, there is no sticky/sealer on it, so the panel just pulls/falls away once you take the bolts off - sounds like they changed it from earlier years.

...if you are having problems with the sun-glass holder vibrating, I took out the black foam inside the door and put sound deadening and then glued a black velvet cloth to it to protect sunglasses and make it look stock. That helped, but when I put some black foam between the headliner and the edge of the back of the overhead console (where the overhead console ends, near the windshield header) , that killed the vibration completely...
I've been going down a similar route - I put some weatherstripping foam along the console edge where it meets the headliner nearest the windshield. I shoved some acoustical foam inside the sunglasses visor/holder, and I used some gorrilla tape along the backside of the sunglasses holder where it meets up with the rest of the console. But I've lost my ability to use the sunglasses visor/holder for now. I like your solution better - I need to buy a little more deadener I think. Appreciate the tips.

What do you have them crossed at?
I have to go back and check - probably too low.

Maybe that won't help you, but I figured I'd try. lol-maybe it helps someone reading this? Oh, and those acoustic baffles, only 10 bucks for 2. If they don't work, you can still use them to protect your speakers from moisture- just cut out bottoms to bring back lower bass.
I may give them a shot at some point. I loathe having to take the panels off again anytime soon - but I may if I can't get the sound I want with tuning.

One thing that threw me was you mentioned one of the reasons you chose the JL was for signal summing. Did they change something in Uconnect? My '15 has a full range signal from both front and back channels. I ask this because someone had a right up that said the rear speakers had some sort of filtering below 100hz, which for my particular Altitude is not true.
I'm 90% certain the fronts and rears are all full signal. The thing was, was, after reading and reading here, and elsewhere, I could never get a full definitive answer with agreement amongst multiple forum members if the fronts and rears on the basic six speaker were indeed all full signal. Since I didn't know with 100% certainty I didn't want to chance it and have trouble down the line. A Lot of the final purchase decision for the FIX86 was last minute "better safe than sorry" moments going on for me. I knew I had a weekend scheduled for the build, and I didn't want to have to wait longer should I have run into problems without the FIX, so at the 11th hour I ordered it as well two days before I had set aside my weekend for the install. I had been mentally obsessing for a few weeks leading up to the install on how I would do it - not even able to focus at my job/work, and I couldn't fathom waiting an additional week should I have had to wait on the FIX86 if I found out I needed it during the install. As I mentioned somewhere above, looking back, I probably don't need it, but it certainly does not hurt to have it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
If anybody has roughly 25 minutes to spare, JL Audio has an excellent video you can watch on YouTube about the Cleansweep which the Fix is based upon...

...IMO, the OP has done excellent job in designing and accomplishing the upgrade. :thumbsup:
Thanks for the video link - I will indeed watch it, I don't feel I know nearly enough about my equipment yet nor what I am fully doing.

I also appreciate the compliment - means alot coming from you - you seem to be one of the, if not the biggest authority on here who knows their audio equipment and the technology behind it.
 

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I hear you with trying to find out what channel had full signal and what might not- i was all over the place trying to find out. I got lucky.

As far as being prepared and having everything ready for install, i would of done exactly what you did. Having to hold up an install for a missing component is painful- been there. Wait till you blow a fuse and the only place to get it doesn't open till the following day. lol

With the equipment you've chosen, I'm sure it sounds phenomenal. The amount of adjustability you have is insane- I would be like a kid in a candy store and probably be jobless because I would literally not leave the Jeep for days messing with all the settings. In the 3 years I've had my Jeep, I've changed my main speaker amps 3 times, sub amp 4 times, and on my 4th Sub. Started with high-level into amps, then an LC2i, then added an EQ, then switched to the DQ-61. Each time it was for better SQ, but also much more volume. I'm happy with volume now, but I think I can still get better SQ switching out the DQ-61 for a better DSP. So thanks for your thread. Thanks alot for making me want to spend more money! Kidding- but I will wait for vacation because I wasn't kidding about wanting to spend days playing with all the settings. lol

Thanks again for taking the time to post a great write-up and pictures and share your experience. It helps people like me contemplating changes and also people who are thinking about upgrading there base system for the 1st time.

Now, if we could all just come together and convince Chrysler to just slap some line-level unequalized preamp RCA outputs on Uconnect , we could save a ton of money, time and guesswork. (those new T-harnesses for amp pro and idatalink are great, but do nothing for those of us with unamplified Ucconect radios) Sorry for the rant- just wishful thinking- I'll have better odds with the Florida Lotto.:lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Totally hear you on all fronts. I, as well, started with the LC2i.

Having some unequalized preamp RCA's would sure have made a big difference and allowed me to remove guess work and money on this project. I'm just glad I found the harness to tap into the speaker wires. I was really not looking forward to hacking the OEM wires for the build - just in case I ever wanted to go back.

Thanks for the good conversation on the topic!
 

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My '15 has a full range signal from both front and back channels. I ask this because someone had a right up that said the rear speakers had some sort of filtering below 100hz, which for my particular Altitude is not true.
Were you able to verify that yourself? I read that too and seemed to be correct as my rear Focal 6 1/2 coaxials produce almost no bass at all, especially the lower notes on my 2015 Altitude with 6 speakers. If they are truly full range I can not worry about summing and just try to focus on the sharp bass drop off starting at 18 on the UConnect and small tuning. Does the AudioControl AccuBass really work?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
The accubass does work - sort of. I got much more bass output in my kicker hideaway when I used an lc2i and tapped into my speakers. But it's just adding bass to the low end - it isn't and cannot take into consideration if a signal intended to have more bass on a particular audio track or not - it just adds more to what's already there. For most purposes this is fine, but for a true audiophile, it could be argued that it's creating bass that an artist never intended to have on a music track.

I personally was very happy with it, because it really brought my kicker hideaway alive when I bought the lc2i - I thought I had spent a few hundred on a cruddy solution, but the lc2i helped prove that to not be true.
 

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Is there any option to use the uconnect volume as the master volume? Or is that where the issue with the bass/frequency adjustments come into play.

Not that the master knob looks bad, i just would rather not need to add somthing like that, also doesnt that defeat the use of the steering volume controls?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Is there any option to use the uconnect volume as the master volume? Or is that where the issue with the bass/frequency adjustments come into play.

Not that the master knob looks bad, i just would rather not need to add somthing like that, also doesnt that defeat the use of the steering volume controls?
Yeah - if you continue to use the volume knob on the uconnect then you loose the calibration settings that the FIX86 provides - the way the FIX86 works is you send a signal through at a particular volume level, then you leave the system at that level. Changing it removes / changes the calibration and it can be off.

And you can't really use the steering volume controls anymore - you can, if you are in a need to quickly turn down the volume without removing your hands from steering wheel, but again, you lose the calibration that that FIX86 provides. It's a trade off for sure having the FIX86. This was one of the main factors in why I chose to put the JL volume knob so close to the original one - close to where my hand naturally rests when driving (resting on top of the gear shifter when I don't have both hands on the wheel) to help make it as easy as possible to get in the habit of using the JL volume control.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks for the video link - I will indeed watch it, I don't feel I know nearly enough about my equipment yet nor what I am fully doing.

I also appreciate the compliment - means alot coming from you - you seem to be one of the, if not the biggest authority on here who knows their audio equipment and the technology behind it.
So, I watched all six parts on the youtube about the cleansweep. What's interesting is that the guy from JL audio mentioned that after it's calibrated I should be able to use the knob on my OE headunit and not get too much variance on EQ settings changed after the Cleansweep (in my case FIX 86) has done it's calibration.

I'm trying this out now (and I did a bit last month) - it feels like the uconnect EQ levels change depending on volume setting. That is my SQ feels off if I keep the JL audio volume at a set level, then use the uconnect volume as master - at lower levels there seems to be more bass output and a few other changes I can't quite put my finger on compared to when I leave the uconnect volume set to the level I calibrated the system at and use the JL as master volume. I'm pretty used to using the JL volume now, so I'll probably just keep doing that - but if anyone else has experiences with uconnect changing EQ settings depending on volume level, I'd love to hear more about that.
 
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