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Discussion Starter #21
After searching the threads, owners manual and calling three different dealerships, I've confused the hell out of myself. So basically I just want to know what is the best thing to do for my new '19 Grand Cherokee V6 in regards to first oil change. I'm a Marine away from home and my wife has been driving it basically around town. It now has 4500k give or take and we got it back in March brand new when I was home. Oil life is showing 39% as of this am she tells me. I will be home in a week and we're planning a 1000k road trip so I would feel better changing the oil in it before we head out. Reading about how a new engine needing to break in etc. and to change the oil sooner than later due to metal pieces from new engine parts possibly doing damage AND to wait until AFTER first oil change to use a "fully synthetic" oil has got me paranoid as hell. This is my first new "Jeep" after all.

So all of you Grand Cherokee V6 owners/experts out there, what are your recommendations for the type and exact brand name of oil should I be using? Pennzoil? Mobil 1? Manual mentions Pennzoil. Fully synthetic or blended? Pennzoil Gold, Ultra or Ultra Premium? I want to be sure all is good in case of problems so I can show receipt to dealer just in case down the road I did the right thing. OR...just take it to the dealer to handle it and spend twice as much just to let some kid do a half ass job?

Appreciate your feedback!

**UPDATE I got home Monday night and was able to change the oil and filter on the Jeep. As one of you mentioned, I was overthinking this whole simple process so I did what the OM stated..I used 0W-20 Pennzoil Platinum and a Mopar MO-349 Filter, and a shout out to Oreilly Auto Parts for the military discount! The Jeep comes from the factory with synthetic oil and Chrysler designed the engine to use it so who am I to second guess that? If the rings don't properly seat etc. etc. because of synthetic oil from the get go well then that's what their warranty is for.

NOW here's the scary part..as I mentioned the oil life indicator said 39% of oil life left. The oil looked like "crude oil" it was so dark BLACK. It also had a rank, burnt odor as well. Then again is this what used synthetic oil smells like? There is NO WAY I could in good conscience, left that oil in the engine for a 1k road trip. Granted the lubricating properties may still be intact but how could oil in that condition properly "clean and absorb heat" etc.? I just warmed up the engine for a few minutes to let the oil get warmed up to drain better so, it wasn't scalding hot or anything like I had just driven it.

At any rate, the Jeep is all good to go now but lesson learned to go by common sense time/mileage instead of that "sophisticated algorithim" oil life monitor system. I will have to say that this was by far the EASIEST oil change I have ever done on a vehicle! So clear and easy access to the filter and drain plug. I did notice however that the drain plug was not tight at all and came loose with barely a turn. Also it did NOT have any kind of washer, crush washer etc. The filter housing was also barely snug as if someone had hand tightened it. I know its plastic and can break easy but man its kind of scary how "loose" these two components actually were. Is this indicative of Chrysler quality?
I did torque them both to the correct spec when I put them both back on however.

I just wanted to update you all and say thanks again to all that commented. I really appreciated ALL your feedback!
I'll leave this post up for a day or two then delete it. Have a good one everybody!
 

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2015 WK2 Overland
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Oil color is no indication of oil quality. If you're concerned send the oil off to Blackstone for testing.
 

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GC TH
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I agree. Oil turns dark very quickly and it doesn’t affect the performance. I send samples to Blackstone all the time. In my WK1 SRT8, they always tell me I could get more mileage out of it (5k change intervals) and I drive that one like I stole it.
 

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Doing the first oil change early is a good measure, until the motor breaks-in (and that is a debate now-a-days with the quality materials and designs being used) there can be more blow-by of the rings, assembly lubes and greases, initial wear particles, etc in the oil.....

I'm not aware of any design differences in engines for Synthetic Oil, Conventional and Synthetic are pretty much interchangeable, Synthetic is just better. The fact that a 0W-20 oil would be so difficult to blend with conventional oil is likely why synthetic is the default, not that the motor was somehow designed to use synthetic.....

Dirty oil, it is true you can't judge the oil by its color, it is designed to suspend dirt in it to be filtered out by the filter and thus clean the inside of the motor.... ....I've seen people adopt attitudes though that just defy logic because of that concept, insisting "Oil can't get too dirty", "the dirty the better", etc I don't know what they are thinking..... ...the oil can collect to much dirt and the oil does wear out...

What I do personally, and I've seen this advice in other places on the internet; wipe the dipstick with a clean cloth or paper towel, look at the stain that it leaves behind, you'll notice the oil will absorb and wick into the clean cloth or paper towel, the outer edges of the somewhat dirty oil that is still good, that oil that wicks into the outer edges of the stain, will be that honey/brownish color of clean good oil.... ....oil that is really bad, and broken down, the entire stain is black, the oil that wicks into the cloth or paper towel, also looks black.....
 

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JGC TrailHawk MY18
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After searching the threads, owners manual and calling three different dealerships, I've confused the hell out of myself. So basically I just want to know what is the best thing to do for my new '19 Grand Cherokee V6 in regards to first oil change. I'm a Marine away from home and my wife has been driving it basically around town. It now has 4500k give or take and we got it back in March brand new when I was home. Oil life is showing 39% as of this am she tells me. I will be home in a week and we're planning a 1000k road trip so I would feel better changing the oil in it before we head out. Reading about how a new engine needing to break in etc. and to change the oil sooner than later due to metal pieces from new engine parts possibly doing damage AND to wait until AFTER first oil change to use a "fully synthetic" oil has got me paranoid as hell. This is my first new "Jeep" after all.

So all of you Grand Cherokee V6 owners/experts out there, what are your recommendations for the type and exact brand name of oil should I be using? Pennzoil? Mobil 1? Manual mentions Pennzoil. Fully synthetic or blended? Pennzoil Gold, Ultra or Ultra Premium? I want to be sure all is good in case of problems so I can show receipt to dealer just in case down the road I did the right thing. OR...just take it to the dealer to handle it and spend twice as much just to let some kid do a half ass job?

Appreciate your feedback!
 

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JGC TrailHawk MY18
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I have had three JGC and my MY14 had a serious engine problem. It was 18 months out of warranty and because I had all service done by the dealer, the dealer was on my side and pushed Jeep for a new engine. Jeep came to the party with not problem. I have since bought two more new JGC. Do not be a tight ass. I you cannot afford to have a Jeep serviced under warranty by the dealer you cannot afford a Jeep.
 

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If you can change your own oil and save a buck or in the case of MY19 JGC in SC 75 bucks then do so. I served and I understand that money is tight for military families so dont pay this guy any mind
 

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If you can change your own oil and save a buck or in the case of MY19 JGC in SC 75 bucks then do so. I served and I understand that money is tight for military families so dont pay this guy any mind
And I know exactly what oil and filter was used and everything is correctly torqued. Also gives me a chance to inspect the underside of the vehicle. I'll save a few bucks and keep my own detailed records. This isn't a high end collectors car that needs miles of dealer service records...
 

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I have had three JGC and my MY14 had a serious engine problem. It was 18 months out of warranty and because I had all service done by the dealer, the dealer was on my side and pushed Jeep for a new engine. Jeep came to the party with not problem. I have since bought two more new JGC. Do not be a tight ass. I you cannot afford to have a Jeep serviced under warranty by the dealer you cannot afford a Jeep.
You can afford a JGC and not flush money down the toilet.... .....I only go to Dealerships when its my last and only option, simply because I don't trust them.....

I could argue if you can't change your own oil, and keep proper records of it, you don't have the necessary skills to own and drive a vehicle on the road....... ....they're both opinions....

People make choices for all sorts of reasons, and not all of them are for economic or financial reasons......

If you want to shell out all sorts of money to the Dealerships to keep yourself in their good graces just in case something goes wrong and hope you might get something extra, that fine, it's your choice....

There is nothing wrong with someone choosing differently and not flushing money down the toilet and do what work they can themselves, especially when they know they will do a better job, with more attention to detail, than the dealership will do, not flush their money down the toilet and take their chances if something goes bad later on with the vehicle....
 

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1. Stick with full-synthetic.
a) 2016+ switched from 5W-20 -> 0W-20, there is no 0W-20 non-synthetic available.
b) Full synthetic is cheap as hell these days. It's gonna make your engine last longer.
2. Most major brands compliant with Chrysler MS-6395.
a) FCA use Pennzoil full-synthetic as factory fill. You don' need to be panic about break-in or changing it super early or anything, 5k-8k interval should do it.
b) Pennzoil/Mobil1/Castrol run rebate all year long, $22.68/5qt on Amazon/Wamart, then with $10 rebate, that's $12.68/jug. Plus $4 K&N filter on Amazon.
c) Dealer asks $100+ full-syn oil change in California. As I mentioned above, go buy oil+filter yourself and DIY or find a mechanic shop to change it for you.
3. Don't over tight your oil filter cap,
a) it will fail sooner or later, common issue on these 3.6L Pentastar houding.
b) Check for oil filter housing after 40K mile and get it fixed if you are still under warranty.
 

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I still say doing the first oil change early is good, perhaps not necessary, its unprovable argument, someone just has to decide which they agree with....
2. Most major brands compliant with Chrysler MS-6395.
a) FCA use Pennzoil full-synthetic as factory fill. You don' need to be panic about break-in or changing it super early or anything, 5k-8k interval should do it.
b) Pennzoil/Mobil1/Castrol run rebate all year long, $22.68/5qt on Amazon/Wamart, then with $10 rebate, that's $12.68/jug. Plus $4 K&N filter on Amazon.
c) Dealer asks $100+ full-syn oil change in California. As I mentioned above, go buy oil+filter yourself and DIY or find a mechanic shop to change it for you.
I use Wix XP (for Synthetic Oil) filters that I get off RockAuto...
But yes, the important point is, you can do this job with high quality oil and filters for less than $30.
Personally, I go off the oil changer reminder warning on the dash, using Synthetic Oil is more than enough overkill IMO for the oil.
3. Don't over tight your oil filter cap,
a) it will fail sooner or later, common issue on these 3.6L Pentastar houding.
b) Check for oil filter housing after 40K mile and get it fixed if you are still under warranty.
Lube the O-rings of the cap with oil, they'll probably still be wet but make sure they are wet with oil before re-installing the cap. That will allow the cap to screw on/off easier, not get stuck by the next oil change and allow it to seat and seal better.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I have had three JGC and my MY14 had a serious engine problem. It was 18 months out of warranty and because I had all service done by the dealer, the dealer was on my side and pushed Jeep for a new engine. Jeep came to the party with not problem. I have since bought two more new JGC. Do not be a tight ass. I you cannot afford to have a Jeep serviced under warranty by the dealer you cannot afford a Jeep.

Well, first off let's get out of the way your assumption and statement that by asking for advice on what is best oil for a brand new engine break in is somehow ridiculously related to my personal financial situation. As a owner of 3 previously used vehicles, I think I may have mentioned in my post that this is my first "brand new" vehicle and Jeep.
To the point of your statement and totally unrelated to the subject of my post, sorry to inform you my Jeep is paid for. You are correct however that I am somewhat of a "tight ass" as I did take advantage of 0% interest financing just to get an additional rebate but paid the loan off after 4 months. I don't think that has any basis for an affordability reason but more so for being financially smart. So, as you obviously don't know me or my financial status, I highly suggest that in the future if you can't contribute in a helpful positive way to what is actually being asked or needed, then keep your "half assed" opinion's to yourself.

I will say it did cost $34 and some change to buy the oil & filter versus paying $49.95 to the local dealer so I saved all of $15 but have the satisfaction of knowing everything was correctly done as someone else just mentioned.
In addition to being a "tight ass", I guess that makes me a "smart ass" as well huh?
 

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Discussion Starter #33
1. Stick with full-synthetic.
a) 2016+ switched from 5W-20 -> 0W-20, there is no 0W-20 non-synthetic available.
b) Full synthetic is cheap as hell these days. It's gonna make your engine last longer.
2. Most major brands compliant with Chrysler MS-6395.
a) FCA use Pennzoil full-synthetic as factory fill. You don' need to be panic about break-in or changing it super early or anything, 5k-8k interval should do it.
b) Pennzoil/Mobil1/Castrol run rebate all year long, $22.68/5qt on Amazon/Wamart, then with $10 rebate, that's $12.68/jug. Plus $4 K&N filter on Amazon.
c) Dealer asks $100+ full-syn oil change in California. As I mentioned above, go buy oil+filter yourself and DIY or find a mechanic shop to change it for you.
3. Don't over tight your oil filter cap,
a) it will fail sooner or later, common issue on these 3.6L Pentastar houding.
b) Check for oil filter housing after 40K mile and get it fixed if you are still under warranty.
Thanks so much! Awesome advice!
 

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Discussion Starter #34
I still say doing the first oil change early is good, perhaps not necessary, its unprovable argument, someone just has to decide which they agree with....

I use Wix XP (for Synthetic Oil) filters that I get off RockAuto...
But yes, the important point is, you can do this job with high quality oil and filters for less than $30.
Personally, I go off the oil changer reminder warning on the dash, using Synthetic Oil is more than enough overkill IMO for the oil.

Lube the O-rings of the cap with oil, they'll probably still be wet but make sure they are wet with oil before re-installing the cap. That will allow the cap to screw on/off easier, not get stuck by the next oil change and allow it to seat and seal better.
Awesome! Thanks again for your feedback!
 

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Discussion Starter #35
And I know exactly what oil and filter was used and everything is correctly torqued. Also gives me a chance to inspect the underside of the vehicle. I'll save a few bucks and keep my own detailed records. This isn't a high end collectors car that needs miles of dealer service records...
Exactly, appreciate your feedback!
 

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Discussion Starter #36
If you can change your own oil and save a buck or in the case of MY19 JGC in SC 75 bucks then do so. I served and I understand that money is tight for military families so dont pay this guy any mind
Appreciate your feedback! Sad part is we're busting our ass keeping freedom free for knuckle heads like that. You know exactly what I'm talking about my man.
 

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Well, first off let's get out of the way your assumption and statement that by asking for advice on what is best oil for a brand new engine break in is somehow ridiculously related to my personal financial situation. As a owner of 3 previously used vehicles, I think I may have mentioned in my post that this is my first "brand new" vehicle and Jeep.
To the point of your statement and totally unrelated to the subject of my post, sorry to inform you my Jeep is paid for. You are correct however that I am somewhat of a "tight ass" as I did take advantage of 0% interest financing just to get an additional rebate but paid the loan off after 4 months. I don't think that has any basis for an affordability reason but more so for being financially smart. So, as you obviously don't know me or my financial status, I highly suggest that in the future if you can't contribute in a helpful positive way to what is actually being asked or needed, then keep your "half assed" opinion's to yourself.

I will say it did cost $34 and some change to buy the oil & filter versus paying $49.95 to the local dealer so I saved all of $15 but have the satisfaction of knowing everything was correctly done as someone else just mentioned.
In addition to being a "tight ass", I guess that makes me a "smart ass" as well huh?
The point I was trying to make was my engine was written off with big end failure and the bill was $26,000 for a new engine. Obviously due to lack of lubrication and or bad bearing. I feel that if I did my own service which I am more than capable of doing, Jeep would not have given me a new engine. Jeep did not owe me anything. My warranty had expired 18 months earlier. I know about the low skill level of many people in the car service field and I could write many entertaining stories but you could take my experience as bit of advice. Just putting it out there. Been driving for 52 years experience must account for something.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
The point I was trying to make was my engine was written off with big end failure and the bill was $26,000 for a new engine. Obviously due to lack of lubrication and or bad bearing. I feel that if I did my own service which I am more than capable of doing, Jeep would not have given me a new engine. Jeep did not owe me anything. My warranty had expired 18 months earlier. I know about the low skill level of many people in the car service field and I could write many entertaining stories but you could take my experience as bit of advice. Just putting it out there. Been driving for 52 years experience must account for something.
All good Jeepski, sometimes its hard to express what you are trying to say in written form. Appreciate you clarifying your post.
 

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After searching the threads, owners manual and calling three different dealerships, I've confused the hell out of myself. So basically I just want to know what is the best thing to do for my new '19 Grand Cherokee V6 in regards to first oil change. I'm a Marine away from home and my wife has been driving it basically around town. It now has 4500k give or take and we got it back in March brand new when I was home. Oil life is showing 39% as of this am she tells me. I will be home in a week and we're planning a 1000k road trip so I would feel better changing the oil in it before we head out. Reading about how a new engine needing to break in etc. and to change the oil sooner than later due to metal pieces from new engine parts possibly doing damage AND to wait until AFTER first oil change to use a "fully synthetic" oil has got me paranoid as hell. This is my first new "Jeep" after all.

So all of you Grand Cherokee V6 owners/experts out there, what are your recommendations for the type and exact brand name of oil should I be using? Pennzoil? Mobil 1? Manual mentions Pennzoil. Fully synthetic or blended? Pennzoil Gold, Ultra or Ultra Premium? I want to be sure all is good in case of problems so I can show receipt to dealer just in case down the road I did the right thing. OR...just take it to the dealer to handle it and spend twice as much just to let some kid do a half ass job?

Appreciate your feedback!
 

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Personal prejudice regarding oil changes: Mobil 1 full synthetic viscosity as specified on your oil filler cap. Change oil and filter every 5K miles without fail. Forget what the electronics say, unless they say change before 5K. I popped the right side valve cover to change out a cam follower at 128K miles on my 2011 3.6, and everything looks new, clean, and pretty, with no wear to be found. I use the same oil in my Pontiac Vibe GT with the Toyota/Yamaha 2ZZ motor. No visible wear at 196K miles, and that little engine revs to 8200 (yikes!) rpm.
 
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