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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I finally pulled the trigger and traded my ‘11 overland in for a 2020 Trailhawk. I drive several hours a week so I spend a substantial amount of time listening to the stock audio system. It’s not bad but not what I want so I started doing research and began purchasing the equipment for my install. Everything has arrived except for the amps which I’m having shipped from Italy so they are currently on their way but won’t arrive until next week. I’m also doing a few minor mods during the install. I work for FCA and I have crazy hours so I’m having a pro shop do the install...for a hefty price of course. But they do quality work and I want it done right the first time. The install is scheduled for March 23rd and they will have the Jeep for 5 days. I will be updating this thread with pics of the progress as it’s completed.

Some of the equipment I did get a chance to demo before purchasing..the speakers for instance..others I just went by tech specs..so not sure what the end result will sound like but I’m hopeful. Lol

I decided to not upgrade the center or rear pillar speakers for now, that may change at a later date and I’ve instructed the installers to leave room on the rack for an additional amp should I decide to do so.

For the door speakers I chose Hybrid Audio Imagine series I61-2v2s components, leaving the tweeters attached on the rear doors but putting each of them on their own channel and letting the DSP do al the work. For a sub I’m using the JL stealthbox and may decide to change the sub out later but will wait to see what kind of sound I get out of it first.

I’m driving the front four and the rear four speakers with identical amps. I chose two Mosconi AS-100.4w and a Mosconi AS-200.2w bridged for the sub with the RTC-m remote. I also purchased another AS-100.4w in case I decide to upgrade the center/pillar speakers I will already have the amp. (I’m sure it’s obvious I’m already planning that upgrade, lol) I’m using an Audiocontrol DM-810 for my DSP. I’m removing the spare and contents and fabricating an amp rack in that storage. We are gutting the inside and sound dampening the entire vehicle.

Im upgrading the alternator to 320A. ive already upgraded the rims and tires to SRT rims with Falken Wildpeaks and tinted the front windows. Will be adding a couple of other small upgrades during the process like wireless charging pad, illuminated sills and rear led fogs during the installation. (I already have all these parts). I have a Yakima roof rack with the spare tire/high lift jack accessories and Rhino rails already so may move the matching rim and tire up there, not sure yet. Rear installation is also an option.

So for now waiting on the amps to arrive then we are ready to get started. Will update once the installation begins.

EDIT 4/27/2021
Since I originally started this build the equipment a has changed a couple of times, but now have a finally purchased my entire equipment list for the install. No more changes planned for the moment so I’ve been moving forward with the build.

For speakers I went with:

HAT L8se in custom kick panels
HAT X3 in custom A pillars
HAT X1 in custom sail panels
HAT X3 in D pillars
HAT X3 center channel (seperate tune for video)
JL Audio Stealthbox (removing JL sub and customizing for HAT Clarus sub)
HAT Clarus 10 d4 sub wired to 2ohm

For amps I went with:

Mosconi AS100.4 (driving tweets and mids)
Mosconi AS200.2 (driving L8se mid bass)
Mosconi AS100.4 (channels 1 and 2 driving d pillar, 3 and 4 bridged for sub)

For interface signal I decided on the PAC amp pro Ap4-ch41 and aph-ch01 harness. Removes all processing for a clean flat signal. For processing i chose the Mini CDSP 8x12 Dirac Live unit and I’m running TOSLINK from the Pac directly into the processor. I’m installing a Kinetic auxiliary battery with NVX isolator for additional power needs.

As far as the install goes, too many things to list...voltmeters first both batteries, the Mosconi LED amp kits, remote control linear actuators to raise and lower back deck, blue seas accessory fuse block, iport case and dock for remote tuning, neon simulated LEDs in cargo area, illuminated plexiglass panel with Mosconi logo, Astel and Kern digital player, mini OLED remote for sub/master volume and presets, replacing all speaker wires with 16g ofc except sub which is 12g. T-spec 0 and 4 gaudier ofc where needed and everything wrapped in tech flex, matching oem automotive carpet and 4 way stretch vinyl for pods and pillars, relay bank for accessories, lots of Dynamet extreme and ccf throughout, etc...you get the picture. ALOT to install...so this thread will be spread out a little and take some time. Won’t cut corners.


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Keeping an eye on this thread as I like to see build threads for audio installs.

I have to start mine when I get a minute.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The amps and the controller will be here in two days and just got all the dynamat extreme today. I ordered the HAT speakers from 12v electronics. They are imagine speakers but boxed in Unity packaging. Thought it strange but the speakers are new and not refurbished.
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That DSP is super nice. I have the same one going in mine.
Yeah I was on the fence as to which DSP I wanted. There are some great products out there and several with much more modern features but I liked audiocontrol. The demo videos had hooked me right away.
 

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I originally purchased the Rockford Fosgate DSR1 for my install, but wanted to use a fiber input. My PAC AMPPro CH4 has the option for the fiber output and I bought it. So I then bought the AudioControl 810 as it has the fiber input. The DSR1 has a rca for it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The amps came in but now it looks like I’m on hold for at least a couple of weeks. The install shop is closing their doors for two weeks and will contact me when they are able to reschedule the install.
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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
There’s has been a delay with the install based on the current situation and the install shop isn’t sure when they will start doing installs for now so I’ve decided to do the install myself. I received a few more parts but still waiting on a couple of harnesses, the rest of the LEDs/controller, my 2nd battery/isolator, fuse links/distribution blocks, techflex, ground/power leads and automotive carpet to match the interior. I also ordered a 10” HAT Clarus sub to replace the JL sub in the stealthbox. Hoping it will mount right in without modification. The last thing I ordered was an wireless charging/magnetic iPad mount so that I can mount it on the underside of the storage lid to use for tuning the dsp on the go.
Today I received the linear actuators (still waiting on the wireless controller) to raise and lower the storage lid. I’ll probably program it into one of the home link buttons. Also received my dynamat, 2 of the 3 amp led kits for the mosconi amps, and the Bluetooth module for the dsp. Should be able to start the install the beginning of next week if everything comes in by then. Will update when it does.
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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Was a little bored today so decided to start some of the sound dampening. I looked for videos that explained liftgate trim and rear air deflector (spoiler) removal for the 2020 but was unable to find any so thought I would show what I did. I read on a couple of the forums that people had previous issues with the spoiler vibrating with aftermarket sound system installs so I’m removing it and accessing the situation.

the lift gate trim has to come off before you can remove the spoiler and it comes off in two pieces. You have to remove the lower piece first. I started near the seam and worked down to the corner with my trim tool and popped the plastic fasteners one at a time.

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I worked my down to the bottom then up each side and popped the top clips last. Doesn’t take much force to pop them loose.

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there are 15 total fasteners (14 around the edge and one lower center). Once all of the clips are loose there are two harness plugs to the taillights that easily unclip. Once you have them unplugged the panel is free.
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Next I started on the upper trim. There are nine metal body clips holing it in place...2 on each side and 5 along the top. Using your trim tool loosen both sides first. Then release the top 5 and it comes completely free.

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The spoiler is held on with five 10mm nuts. Three are recessing in body holes and one on each lower corner. I used telescopic magnet inside each of the three holes next to the socket in case one of the nuts fell. Much easier to get them out that way.

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After all five nuts are removed unplug the third break light harness and the hose to the rear washer. The harness pulls straight out and if you squeeze the washer connection slightly with a pair of pliers on the upper section the lower hose comes right out.

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Finally there are two white clips that are recessed in holes that line up with the nut holes. They have to be pinched to release the spoiler. I used a pair of hemostats and released them one at a time and the spoiler was loose. Before removing it I covered the painted surface with painters tape to protect from scratches. I removed the spoiler and applied adhesive foam to any uncovered contact points on the spoiler and applied sound dampener to the lift gate area and reinstalled everything. Tomorrow I will try to work on the doors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Installed the HAT speakers in all the doors last week just so I can let them break in a little before the full install. I have about 20 hours on them so far and I must say for anyone looking to only do a “speaker only” upgrade you won’t be disappointed!! They sound amazing. I also had the factory 10 speaker system in my 2011 and for some reason it was much louder than my ‘20.
I used scosche adapter plates for the front door speakers but I’m not very impressed with them so I’m making new adapters from scratch using 1/2” acrylic based on the ones mark from CAF made for one of his builds.


The biggest problem I’ve ran into so far is that many of the smaller items for this build that I have ordered have been taking forever to arrive because of shipping and backorder issues. Hopefully everything will be here by next week. The router templates for the speakers are suppose to be here today so I will be working on them today.
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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
These were just delivered yesterday. I found these a couple of weeks ago. Impeccable condition. Both front seats with rear entertainment system, console (with blue ray) and rear seats that match my interior exactly. Only replacing the front seats and console. Decided since I’m doing this install to the extreme that I am, I might as well go all out. Lockpick on order so that I can play same video on all three screens. I have assembled a large collection of good quality music videos so it will be fun for demo purposes when the install is complete.



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I used that same video to make my adapter plates. So much better than the free schoche adapters.

I am going to redo mine as it was my first time using a router. These are made with 1/2" HDPE material as the video does. My new set will be made with blown PVC in black.
IMG_20190526_140643_685.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
That’s pretty good for your first time. I tried to pay Mark to make me a set but it’s been two weeks and he hasn’t responded so as soon as my bit gets here from mobile solutions I’m going to cut my own. Making a temporary set out of modified 1/4” deck board for now. It’s solid but only temporary. Won’t install the fast rings until I make the permanent ones. Would love to see your pvc adapters when you complete them. How hard was the HDPE to cut?
 

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I did have to recess the speaker a 1/4" in the spacer as it was hitting the door panel.

Do you watch Five Star Car Stereo on YouTube?

I love watching their install videos and they show you exactly how to do things.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The speaker was hitting with half inch adapters before you recessed? Wow it looked like there was more room than that. Thanks for the info.
 

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The speaker was hitting with half inch adapters before you recessed? Wow it looked like there was more room than that. Thanks for the info.
Yeah, I have Focal K2 three way components, I only put the 6.5" woofer in for now. The 6.5" is a meaty mid-range/midbass woofer. Has a longer cone movement than the normal mid-range.

Right now I have the OEM speakers back in till I get the new adaptors built.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I built the temporary adapters for the front 6.5”, took out the old ones and installed them today. Very solid. Also installed sound dampening and wrapped all the door panel clips with tessa tape. I know once I start pushing some power they will rattle. Working on the rear adapters tonight.

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