[Karpe]

I just picked up a set of the Peerless SLS 8" drivers for my midbass in the doors. These guys http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1386

They are 100mm depth which translates to just shy of 4" mounting depth.
and they have X-max 8.5mm or .335 inches.

My dilemma:

Think I can trim a bit of the back of the doorcard and get away with inch thick baffles and some clay? or am I going to have to cut an 8" hole on the doorcard and fashion my own grills? I wanted to keep this stealth

 

[Matt]

They won't fit behind the door card (as stock) with 1" baffles?

I really can't tell what's going on in the picture, sorry...also, keep in mind the window has to be able to go down. So make sure to account for that.

 

[Karpe]

that pic is a measurement from the glass to the door frame. it's exactly 3"

So my mounting depth is approx 4.3" and I have to be able to roll down the windows...

Shit shit shit, I don't want to make my own grills and hack up the doors. grrrrrr

 

[Matt]

that pic is a measurement from the glass to the door frame. it's exactly 3"

So my mounting depth is approx 4.3" and I have to be able to roll down the windows...

Shit shit shit, I don't want to make my own grills and hack up the doors. grrrrrr

Oh okay, yeah the reflection was throwing me off, haha.

So, mounting depth is solved with 1" baffles... now, have you checked the "reverse" mounting depth (for lack of a better word). Basically if you use a 1" baffle + maybe another .5" accounting for xmax and clay will that fit behind the door card without modification?

Essentially, how far is the door card from the inner skin of the door frame? If you have your ~1.5" then you are all set. If not, well then you can either get a different mid (OEM, SLS 6.5's, etc) or hack up the door card and see if you can fab up a decent looking grill "extension."

...oh the joy of your first active stereo

Now I remember why I sold all that mess off, hehe.

On another subject: I'm sooooo curious to see what your findings are for the full-range. This may be looking to far ahead, but are you planning on trying the factory dash location or something different? I ask because I never had the chance to try my full-range (RS100) in the dash - they were too big. I aimed them slightly off-axis in the pillars - they were wonderful there. Fawk, I wish I kept all my old stuf, haha.

 

[TimmyB]

I want to learn something here, whats a "door card" and whats "xmax"? And while im at it whats an active stereo?

 

[Matt]

I want to learn something here, whats a "door card" and whats "xmax"? And while im at it whats an active stereo?

Door card: The actual interior piece of the door that you pull off to mount your speakers.

Xmax: The peak linear travel of the driver. Basically how much the surround is going to move.

Actively managed stereo: *warning: don't do it, it's just a money pit* The term active refers to "actively" or having the ability to adjust the crossover points and slopes of your drivers. This typically includes an array of other digital sound processing features such as, time alignment, phase adjustment (though this can be done by simply reversing the polarity of the speaker...i.e. flipping the pos and neg wires), level control, EQ - usually a very nice EQ, and some other things depending on the processing manufacturer. The idea is to purchase raw drivers (like Andy is doing or like I did in my first build) and designing (basically by trial and error) your own network for the speakers to be run on. It's extremely time consuming, can be very expensive, but... it's fun as hell. Especially all the knowledge you gain just from all the research. I read about this crap for almost 1.5 years before embarking on my first active stereo. I did have a passive system at the time, but it can be an entirely superior set-up if done correctly.

 

[Matt]

Andy, just got done reading about the FR88, man do those sound sooooo promising for a tweeterless set-up. They look awesome on paper! If they don't sound good in the dash location firing at the windshield, just glass those pups in the corners of the dash, aimed slightly off-axis and you'll be golden. If they say they have a better upper-end compared to the RS100's, then you will be in business my friend. *sooo jeleous*

 

[Karpe]

the door card is the fancy/factory term for the interior piece that you see from inside the vehicle that mounts over the actual door skin.

Outer doorskin is exterior>Inner door skin is the framing ( the OEM speakers are attached to this)> The door card covers all that pretty mess

Xmax is the Maximum excursion of the driver. Basically the cone moves in and out along with the magnet. So the Xmax is the distance that the driver would travel from resting position.

Active VS Passive
Passive is when you use Comps like you have and the crossovers are predetermined by the manufacturer and contained in a pretty case.

Active is when the processing and crossovers are done from Either a headunit with the capabilities to control or a separate processer.

Active set ups have a much wider range of tuning options to dial in the audio a lot more. Passives are cheaper and easier but have less control.

Matt turned me onto DIYMA back in October and I've been reading hardcore about the DIY audio world since and I am absolutely fascinated. I didnt think it would take this long to plan a system out, but I've had a good time learning and buying and selling.

Next paycheck I'm buying the install gear and the dampening and then I'll be installing EVERYTHING.

My goal is to have it all installed and mostly tuned by July 24TH. I'll be working the Van's warped tour florida dates so I have to drive to Orlando then to Miami then back to Tampa within 72 hours.

 

[Karpe]

Right after my FR88's showed up I read about how they were designed by Hustler Audio and they have a 4 ohm version dropping soon that will be even better. O well....

I do plan to hid them in the dash, but if they dont fit or are too bright, I will fiberglass pods out of the dash grills. My Roomates dad has a lot of experience so hopefully he will help.

 

[Matt]

Matt turned me onto DIYMA back in October and I've been reading hardcore about the DIY audio world since and I am absolutely fascinated. I didnt think it would take this long to plan a system out, but I've had a good time learning and buying and selling.

Amen! Very fascinating how technical car audio can get.

Next paycheck I'm buying the install gear and the dampening and then I'll be installing EVERYTHING.

Woo!

My goal is to have it all installed and mostly tuned by July 24TH. I'll be working the Van's warped tour florida dates so I have to drive to Orlando then to Miami then back to Tampa within 72 hours.

I think you can make it. As long as you can the SLS's in there without any issues, then you should be money. Expect at least a few days of primitive tuning. You probably won't have it all dialed in perfectly by the trip, but at least enough to have it sound good. Unfortunately tuning requires you to log a lot of hours... and time to let your ears rest or "reset" - sounds crazy, but you'll see what I mean soon.


Where do you plan on crossing the SLS's at (low-pass)? I'd say you want them as high as you can go... maybe 500hz @ 24 db/oct....? Those things are going to rip your head off man, haha. You'll likely get those in and be like "what sub, I don't need no stinkin sub!" - of course I take all donations of XBL^2 drivers.

 

[Matt]

Right after my FR88's showed up I read about how they were designed by Hustler Audio and they have a 4 ohm version dropping soon that will be even better. O well....

I do plan to hid them in the dash, but if they dont fit or are too bright, I will fiberglass pods out of the dash grills. My Roomates dad has a lot of experience so hopefully he will help.

Are the ones you have 8ohms? If so, I think I'd prefer those; especially with the power you have on tap. That gain knob will barely be cracked.

I think the dash may work well. The factory drivers are there and without any DSP they don't seem to bright/harsh. Plus, it would be more stealth... I know you and I both much prefer that.

 

[TimmyB]

Great, thanks both of you for the info. I havent done a system since I was like 18, so its slowly coming back to me. Just all the tuning knobs on these amps and then the diff set-ups on the crossovers i have is confusing to me enough, nevermind an active set-up.

 

[Matt]

Great, thanks both of you for the info. I havent done a system since I was like 18, so its slowly coming back to me. Just all the tuning knobs on these amps and then the diff set-ups on the crossovers i have is comnusing to me enough, nevermind an active set-up.

haha, yeah I hear ya man. If can definitely be overwhelming.

 

[Matt]

Andy, make sure you deaden the shit out of those tin cans Jeep calls a door. I had both the outer and inner skin deadened and the clay behind the baffles and I still rattled the hell out of my side moldings... with my measly 6.5 OEM's and 125w I don't want to know what those SLS's are going to do, haha.

 

[Karpe]

yep they are 8ohm

 

[Matt]

^^ Oh, I though you were talking about the Founteks. Still, I'd probably prefer 8ohm in the SLS's as well. Gobs of power is the most overrated thing in car audio anyways. A clean 100w and those will sing!

EDIT: Both drivers are 8ohm, correct? That's what I'd prefer. And the Mag is single 4ohm right? Man that's a perfect driver combo.

 

[Karpe]

Yes sir!
all thats left on my checklist is"
Streetwires CBR44
Kicker PKD4
Techflex
some ring terminals and other random install gear
and the deadening stuff

Oh yeah and RCA's shit

 

[Matt]

so, mounting depth is solved with 1" baffles... Now, have you checked the "reverse" mounting depth (for lack of a better word). Basically if you use a 1" baffle + maybe another .5" accounting for xmax and clay will that fit behind the door card without modification?

Essentially, how far is the door card from the inner skin of the door frame? If you have your ~1.5" then you are all set. If not, well then you can either get a different mid (oem, sls 6.5's, etc) or hack up the door card and see if you can fab up a decent looking grill "extension."

where do you plan on crossing the sls's at (low-pass)? I'd say you want them as high as you can go... Maybe 500hz @ 24 db/oct....? Those things are going to rip your head off man, haha. You'll likely get those in and be like "what sub, i don't need no stinkin sub!" - of course i take all donations of xbl^2 drivers.

....

 

[Karpe]

I dont have a plan yet as far as tuning, I'm still learning that stuff.

i'm stressing the install right now, then comes tuning

 

[TimmyB]

Sorry to thread jack but you two def seem to know what your talking about. I am making a ported sub enclosure for my 10W6v2 following the demensions on JL's spec sheet for the sub, except im widening it slightly to compensate for some braceing im throwing in the corners. Two questions, If I want to make the back slanted can I just subtract say 2" from the top depth and add 2" to the bottom depth and keep the port dimensions (port Lenght and width) the same except slant it (referred as extension length on there drawing) parallel with the back?

And I keep hearing people say they fill the enclosure with a poly fiber or some sort of filler, is this needed or something I would want to do?