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Discussion Starter #1
Hello All,
I replaced my brake booster today. All went smooth except when i turn off the ignition the Jeep shuts off but the key stops and will not come out. The Jeep will not shift into gear with out the brake. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
 

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I'm pretty sure you're not supposed to be able to shift without your foot on the brake. If I'm not mistaken, that's pretty standard on all modern vehicles.

As for not being able to remove the key, it could be a failing ignition switch, or a worn out key or both. Do you have a 2nd key you could try? Is the steering wheel locked? Sometimes if the steering wheel is locked, it's hard to remove the key.
 

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The beast from Brazil
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This problem was not there before changing the brake booster?
Regarding the use of the brake pedal to shift out of park, thats designed like that.
Regarding that you can´t get the key out of the lock, does the key turn completely to the off/lock position? If not you probably have to adjust the park lock cable.

ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE​
(1) Remove floor console as necessary for access to
the brake transmission shift interlock cable. (Refer to
23 - BODY/INTERIOR/FLOOR CONSOLE -
REMOVAL)
(2) Shift the transmission into the PARK position.
(3) Turn ignition switch to LOCK position.​
Be
sure ignition key cylinder is in the LOCK position.
Cable will not adjust correctly in any
other position.

(4) Pull cable lock button up to release cable (Fig.
58).
(5) Ensure that the cable is free to self-adjust by
pushing cable rearward and releasing.​
(6) Push lock button down until it snaps in place.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the replies, i really appreciated them. No ignition problems before replacing the brake booster. I need to clarify a bit. There is no longer a "click" when the brake pedal is pressed, as in releasing the shifter. Brakes and brake light work fine. The key turns to the "start" position and starts the engine and runs fine. I can turn the key to the "off" position and shut off the engine however, the key stops there and will not go into the "lock" position.

Basically the key is in the ignition and i can't lock the doors. It's almost like the ignition doesn't know the car is in park.
 

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It sounds like you need a new lock cylinder. Pretty common on the WJ. If you pull the column shroud off with the key in the acc or run position (I cannot remember) there is a silver tab under the lock cylinder. in one of the two positions I mentioned you will be able to depress this tab, grab the key and pull the entire lock cylinder out. from there inspect, if the ignition will still not go into lock, then its for sure your issue.
 

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Amber Instigator
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If this started when you changed the booster check the interlock switch on the brake pedal.You may have knocked the wires off or got it out of adjustment when changing the booster.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the new suggestions. Just installed a new lock cylinder and the key still won't go into the lock position. I'm pulling the center console. There appears to be a solenoid approx 6 inches from the lock cylinder with a molex connecter. The solenoid is hot to the touch. does that solenoid activate the lock on the cylinder?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Okay, update. pulled console. the cable going to the blue plastic piece is extremely loose. I pulled it out and was able to get the key in the lock position. Now the car will go into gear without pressing the brake. I'm sure it needs to be adjusted. Thanks for all your help everyone!
 

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The beast from Brazil
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You are talking about the park/lock cable? When that one is not adjusted well, you get problems as you had discribed.
Is the cable loose now? After adjustment you should not be able to shift out of park position without pushing the brake pedal.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
It's the park/lock cable. The solenoid doesn't work. It's just hot to the touch. I had to leave it disconnected. I called around and no one can tell me how much it is without a part #. There is no part # on the cable. Good new is the key is fully functional. Anyone have the part #?
 

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The beast from Brazil
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But did you try to test the solenoid first? It can be that the problem was a misrigged cable.
I have never looked into this system before, but is the solenoid not only activated when applying the brake? When that is the case, it would not be normal to be hot, or the brake pedal switch should be misrigged. (as already stated by cheapjeep before)
This system is called BTSI (Brake Transmission Shift Interlock system), but also after some googling i couldn´t find any P/N yet.
Is there nothing written on the solenoid itself?
 

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The beast from Brazil
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Just had a look at my jeep. The solenoid is there only to lock/unlock the shift handle push button, in combination with the brake pedal switch. It should be energized with the ignition switch in run only and fall off when the brake pedal is depressed.
The shift handle push button mechanically actuates the park lock cable. So it seems that you have 2 different problems:
1) the misrigging of the park lock cable, causing the ignition switch not going to the lock position. (rigging procedure i had given before)
2) the BTSI solenoid. When listening in my jeep, it was almost impossible to hear the solenoid engaging/disengaging. Did you check the solenoid visually if it moves when switching the ignition switch from off to run?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The solenoid is dead. I get 12 volts at the connecter. The solenoid is hot to the touch and does not function. I have the cable disconnected. Do you have a part # for the cable? Thanks again for your help.
 

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The beast from Brazil
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Is the cable bad as well? As fas as i understood the cable is a mechanical link between the shift handle push button and the ignition switch. Are you not only looking for the solenoid? I have looked around on internet, but couldn´t find it. Did you remove the solenoid to see if there is any number on it?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Te cable is fine, the solenoid does nothing but get hot. there is no part# anywhere on the cable or the solenoid. The only markings are white #'s on the solenoid itself.
 

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The beast from Brazil
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What about a trip to the junkyard?
 

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The beast from Brazil
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The only thing i could find sofar is that the solenoid is part of the shifter assy. But would be quite strange that you would have to change the whole assy for a not working solenoid.
 

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I realize this is an old thread and I'm not certain what the general custom is on this board with respect to necro-posting, but, I used this thread (and quite a few different threads on different sites for center console removal) to fix my key-not-coming-out problem.

Probably a bit of background is in order. I bought this Jeep used on-line and sunk a ton of parts into it to save it from the auction. According to the sticker it was originally sold at some Fairway dealership in Kissimmee St. Cloud. I assume the original owner towed a boat which was too ^)(*&)(*ing heavy for it because the springs still need to be replaced. They put a K&N air intake and some kind of performance exhaust on. I'm not certain they didn't chip the motor too because it seems to run different than most other Jeeps I know with the same 4.7 HO engine.

Some time last summer it started having an intermittent problem when it came to getting the key out of the ignition. Seemed to happen more when it was cold. Would happen 3-4 times in a row then not have any trouble for months. I developed a ritual mating dance as it were of softly moving the gear shift from N to P with foot on brake and key in run position and it seemed like it worked. I asked my local mechanic and family friend and he said he looked into it but it seemed like a lot of work for a minor problem. That's generally how he phrases "I don't want to do it."

For the past two days I haven't been able to get the key out. Even though it is now winter in IL I decided I had to tackle this problem before the weather got worse. Man, I gotta say, there are a lot of different instructions for getting that center console out and they all seem to leave one or two critical steps out. I fought for about an hour to get it out. Then I got really honked off, because there is no need to do it.

Step 4 in the adjustment procedure earlier in this thread made little sense to me. Perhaps because (Fig. 58) wasn't included? I don't know. While working the cable back and forth it came out and I put it back in pressing down.

I mentioned the previous owner earlier because they must have had a pack of dogs living in the Jeep most of the time they owned it. Under that center console was a mass of fine brown dog hair. Now I see what the detailer was complaining about. Seeing no way to "adjust" the cable, I managed to replicate the problem.


The problem was the plunger rod on the blue plastic arm was sticking. I dug out a can of Lucas Chain Lube



I then lubed the connection, where the rod went into the cylinder, the metal cable just in front of the black plastic sleeve and the pivot point on the side and center of the blue thing. I worked things back and forth while I sprayed. It started working like a dream.

The only thing I couldn't have lubed without taking the console out was the side pivot point. I took this shot when the console was almost back in.



I could have most likely "fixed" this problem by just taking that front pan out. It would have been a 10 minute job instead of taking close to 2 hours.

Just passing this info along so the next person doesn't have to do far more work than necessary.
 
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