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Discussion Starter #1
After several attempts to find the problem at a couple of Jeep dealers I was told the compressor won't turn off and gets hot, thereby melting the "J fuse". The solution they say is $2400 for a new compressor for my 2011 Grand Cherokee overland. Anyone had this problem and found another solution that a new compressor? I would simply replace the fuse every time it blows but the system needs recalibration every time and I don't have a tool for that. Any thoughts, solutions or work arounds?
Thanks
 

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Why won't it turn off? Have the dealers been able to discover a leak in the system? If so, that's the root of the problem, and needs to be fixed before installing a new compressor.
 

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Thanks for your response. Earlier the dealer ran a check on the pressure level in the system and it showed a modest level below recommended parameters. So over 8 years it dropped a little but barely below the lower parameter. It was topped off before this most recent visit and is still within parameters. Are you saying that even though it now has adequate volume in the reservoir it will continue to run because of a leak?
 

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Unless there is a failure in the compressor controller, I can't think of anything else that would cause the compressor to keeping running, other than a leak. It's a closed system, so a leak is the only way to lose pressure.
 

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Unless there is a failure in the compressor controller, I can't think of anything else that would cause the compressor to keeping running, other than a leak. It's a closed system, so a leak is the only way to lose pressure.
That is what the error codes read out when clearing the codes. It lists possible causes as "leak or defective control module". Since the pressure is still up in the system I would assume it's the control module. If I buy a new control module would the system have to be re-calibrated once it's installed? Like you, I would think something has to be telling the compressor to keep running for whatever reason unless it has a mind of its own. I believe that's the role of the control module. Cheaper to buy one of those than blow $1200 on a compressor only to have it burn up.
 

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Not sure if you need to re-calibrate the system when replacing the controller, or if it's integral to the compressor. Maybe someone else her has the answer to those questions.
 
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