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Overland
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Discussion Starter #41
I had freezing issues and it wouldn't play high bit rate files from a USB. The dealer re-flashed it and it's worked without any problems since.


Also there is a limit on the size of USB/ SD Cards. Pretty sure it's 32Gb.
I am running all the music off of bluetooth via various smartphone music apps (Google Play, Amazon Prime and YouTube, mostly).

I suppose I can reflash it myself.
 

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I know, replying to an old thread. I have a my15 wk2 alpine, and i only replaced the front door speakers with kappa 693.11 . The bass guitar is there now, and overall it sounds much much better.

The down side is I no longer have the insane hip hop 30 hz thump when i want it. I have the bass turned to 9, and for 80's metal and classic rock it is awesome.

My next move is to get a loc and sum the front door and sub channels to drive a sub.

As the kappas have 3 way in the front doors that are unused (alpine crossed factory f at 800hz), I'd also like to sum the rear doors with the front to drive the front doors mid and highs.

I have not felt the need to change the rear doors yet.
 

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Thanks for reviving this thread. If I recall correctly, somebody--maybe even the OP of this thread--reported simply replacing the stock subwoofer with a Pioneer of some sort and some Dynamat and getting good results.
 

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After listening to the Kappa 693's for a little bit (seemed to take about 3 weeks to break in) these things rock. The bass is so smooth, full, freekin' awesome. My original complaint with the factory system was that the bass drum was there, and the bass guitar wasn't. On this site, someone did freq response chart clearly showing a lack of 40-60 HZ, which is right where the bass guitar is.

With that fixed, I started noticing the highs from the high hats and crashes were not as crisp as they should be (yes I'm in a band), so I replaced the center channel with
Infinity Reference REF-3022cfx ( I have an extra one I threw on ebay, not sure why they don't sell singles given how many 3.5 inch center speakers are out there) - damn that woke things up! That was an excellent upgrade and complemented the kappas really well.

So far I'm only 3 speakers into this and I have changed the system sound so much I could probably leave it as is if I was happy with the volume (btw it's as loud / maybe slightly louder now as it was stock).

What I may try next as I was just given a lc6i, is to sum the sub, front, rear doors (that is the full range, right?) , and drive the 693's with an amp and a full range signal. The 693's supposedly go down to 35Hz, so I will see where that goes without changing the sub.... yet...
 

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Front: http://smile.amazon.com/Infinity-Kappa-693-11I-Speakers-Edge-Driven/dp/B00FPU50NW

Rear: http://smile.amazon.com/Infinity-Kappa-62-11I-6-5-Inch-Speakers/dp/B009GHQX5O

Center: Infinity Reference X REF-3002cfx

Sub: http://smile.amazon.com/Pioneer-TS-SW2002D2-8-inch-Shallow-Mount-Subwoofer/dp/B00JQTU434

Installed the last two myself with Metra adapters. The first two were installed by Best Buy (I think they also used Metra adapters). BB charged me like $250 or something.

did you use the Metra 71-039C adapter for the center channel? If not which one? Thanks!
 

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nvm..got it!

Am interested in hearing if you (devilsadvocate) are still happy without replacing the A pillar tweeters?
 

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You need to replace the tweeters the factory ones are complete shit. It's insane the difference once they are replaced but don't spend the extra on kappas just stick with reference series they are better in this platform.


Go with infinity reference 6x9 component set the 3 ways don't make any sense at all in the door factory amped.


Sent from my iPhone using JeepGarage - instagram @_SkunKd_
 

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Thanks for all of the information here!!! I replaced my speakers a few weeks ago and it definitely would have taken much longer without the advice. It also made a huge difference in sound.

Fronts: Infinity Kappa 693.11I $121 (Amazon)
Center: Infinity Reference 3022CFX $59 (Amazon) (Second one going to my Brother-in-law for his Jeep)
Tweeter: Infinity Kappa 10.11t $99 (Amazon)
Rear: Infinity Kappa 62.11i $99 (Crutchfield, was $119, but it dropped $20, and Crutchfield is refunding me the difference)
Subwoofer: Pioneer TS-SW2002D2 $71 (Amazon)

Connectors: (2) Pair of Metra 72-6514, 1x Metra 71-039C. I cut the wire coming off of the original tweeter in half and re-used the connector and spliced wire to increase length. I also cut off the connector for the sub side and spliced in wire.

One of the things that I ran in to was how to prevent the connectors from rattling and moving around. I found out that the Metra connectors have a slide-in section that fits the plastic Ford door fastener. I had a few leftover from other cars and picked up a few extra from Autozone.

I drilled a hole (should be small enough for the fastener to be tight) in the plastic speaker enclosure, put the door fastener in, and the slid on the connector. I also had some 1/2" stick-on rubber stripping that I stuck to the sides and underneath. There is probably a more professional way of doing this, but it's what I had on hand and it works (grin).

I used Noico on the metal around and behind the sub, the back of the front and rear speakers, and for the metallic parts around the edges. I didn't use it on any of the plastic parts as, according to what I've read, plastic doesn't transfer vibrations anywhere near as much as metal. Plus, I was aiming for eliminating rattling sounds, not road noise, that would be a whole other level.

Finally, I bought door fasteners just in case I broke one. I ended up not losing or breaking any. It helped that I had Astro Pneumatic 4524 Fastener and Molding Removal Tool kit that I got a while ago (on sale now for $14 @ Amazon).

.
 

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How would you characterize the change in sound - and, for context, your personal preferences in what a system should sound like?

Any other tips on the install? Photos?
 

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How would you characterize the change in sound - and, for context, your personal preferences in what a system should sound like?

Any other tips on the install? Photos?
For me, the factory speakers seem to be okay on the midrange, a bit boomy on the lows, and had irritating highs coming out of the tweeters on certain songs. Adjustments to the equalizer helped with the mid-range and a bit with the highs, but not enough. Plus, as others have mentioned, there seemed to be something missing on the lower end (i.e. base guitars) but I personally couldn't put my finger on it.

With the new speakers, the bass is much tighter, less boomy. The tweeters are still bright, but lowering it on the equalizer to three notches from the bottom fixed that. But the biggest difference is that the new speakers filled in the mid to lower range nicely. For example, one of the songs I was listening to the other day had a cello in the background. I couldn't hear it anywhere near as well on the old speakers.

I listen to Pop, Rock, Techno, Dance, and oldies mostly. I'm using an iPod Classic with 256Kbps or better MP3s. This is just to give you an idea of the source material that I am using to judge the sound.

I can't quite quantify how I think that it should sound, except that it should sound good for a variety of music types. However, I have a Denon AMP and Polk monitor Series II speakers (60's, 30's, CS2, SVS sub, etc.) for my surround system and that may give you an idea of what I am used to hearing.

Unfortunately, I didn't take any photos as I was pressed for time. There are photos on this thread and others. One reference that I did use a lot was the trim removal document on wk2jeeps.com.

www.wk2jeeps.com/interior/2014_wk2_interior_trim_removal_001.pdf
 

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Did you lose bass with the sub replacement?
I didn't find any loss of bass but there wasn't any gain in bass either. In my opinion, it more or less stayed the same. The difference is that it's more well defined and has a fuller range.

Another poster on here who added the same speakers and sub mentioned that he didn't get the improvement in bass that he was looking for. If you want more bass I believe that the recommendation was to replace the sub with a JL Audio Stealthbox (~$700). You'd have to look through the other audio posts here to find what exactly you would need.
 

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Thanks for all of the information here!!! I replaced my speakers a few weeks ago and it definitely would have taken much longer without the advice. It also made a huge difference in sound.

Fronts: Infinity Kappa 693.11I $121 (Amazon)
Center: Infinity Reference 3022CFX $59 (Amazon) (Second one going to my Brother-in-law for his Jeep)
Tweeter: Infinity Kappa 10.11t $99 (Amazon)
Rear: Infinity Kappa 62.11i $99 (Crutchfield, was $119, but it dropped $20, and Crutchfield is refunding me the difference)
Subwoofer: Pioneer TS-SW2002D2 $71 (Amazon)

Connectors: (2) Pair of Metra 72-6514, 1x Metra 71-039C. I cut the wire coming off of the original tweeter in half and re-used the connector and spliced wire to increase length. I also cut off the connector for the sub side and spliced in wire.

One of the things that I ran in to was how to prevent the connectors from rattling and moving around. I found out that the Metra connectors have a slide-in section that fits the plastic Ford door fastener. I had a few leftover from other cars and picked up a few extra from Autozone.

I drilled a hole (should be small enough for the fastener to be tight) in the plastic speaker enclosure, put the door fastener in, and the slid on the connector. I also had some 1/2" stick-on rubber stripping that I stuck to the sides and underneath. There is probably a more professional way of doing this, but it's what I had on hand and it works (grin).

I used Noico on the metal around and behind the sub, the back of the front and rear speakers, and for the metallic parts around the edges. I didn't use it on any of the plastic parts as, according to what I've read, plastic doesn't transfer vibrations anywhere near as much as metal. Plus, I was aiming for eliminating rattling sounds, not road noise, that would be a whole other level.

Finally, I bought door fasteners just in case I broke one. I ended up not losing or breaking any. It helped that I had Astro Pneumatic 4524 Fastener and Molding Removal Tool kit that I got a while ago (on sale now for $14 @ Amazon).

.
How do you get to the subwoofer? I've looked but can't figure it out. Thanks.

Rick
 

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How do you get to the subwoofer? I've looked but can't figure it out. Thanks.

Rick
It requires removing the complete trunk storage assembly, removing the side trim just to the rear of the rear passenger seat, and then you can remove the side trim at the rear and get to the subwoofer.

If you downloaded the trim removal PDF, it would be:

2014 WK - Body / Interior / LOAD FLOOR, Cargo/Removal
2014 WK - Body/Interior/PANEL, D-Pillar Trim/Removal (Passenger side, I just had to loosen this, not remove it)
2014 WK - Body / Interior / PANEL, Quarter Trim/Removal (Passenger side)
2104 WK - Electrical/8A - Audio/Video/Entertainment/Connectivity/SPEAKER/Removal

.
 

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Why did you choose the kappas over the infinity reference series?
I would have been happy with the Reference series. But I wanted the flexibility to swap out the head unit or add external AMPs/mixers without having to swap out the speakers a second time if I was unhappy with just the speaker swap. Plus, the sales prices brought the cost within my budget. If the Kappas had been at full price, I would have gone with the Reference series.

Overall, the Kappas are more expensive but provide better frequency response, support higher power, and they have a 3 year warranty vs 1 year for the Reference series.

.
 

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Install pics?
Sorry, didn't take any. I was in too much of a rush as I swapped them out just before a road trip. There are plenty of pics earlier in this thread that I referred to for my install.
 
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