[Frango100]

I have a Spectra Premium radiator since 1 1/2 year and no problems.
Did you see any stress marks on this last radiator which had the pinholes? It looks almost if its indeed suffering from externally imposed forces, but still impossible to understand how it could create holes this time.
Does the 4.0 radiator have the transmission cooler in the right hand tank, as with the 4.7, or does it sit in the left hand tank, where the cracks and pinholes appeared?

 

[R0CKKR4WL3R]

Trans cooler is on the drivers side, same side as pin holes. Looking to alleviate the trans temp by adding a trans cooler in the near future. Think it's the transmission? Heating up the left side of the radiator enough to crack it open or cause the pinholes? Guy at parts store was surprised mine didn't come with one from the factory.
There weren't any signs of a weak spot on any of the radiators. No white discoloring of the plastic or damage to the boxes. They all seem legitimately in good working order. Any questionable markings might have made me questionable and not install it. But there was nothing.

 

[Frango100]

Just trying to put all posibilities on paper, but also can't understand what the transmission cooler could have to do with the problem. Maybe the left tank is the weakest by design and for that reason is the first one to burst. But what could cause these pinholes? Is it maybe just a bad batch of radiators with some kind of material failure?
Sorry, but running out of ideas.

 

[R0CKKR4WL3R]

You and me both! I just want to drive it...NOT fix it, especially fix the same thing 6 times in a month and a half.
New radiator is in this morning. I made sure NOTHING banged or touched the upper left corner of the radiator. So now if ANYTHING goes wrong, it's while the vehicle is in use. Not that it was an issue before, but why always in that corner??? I also don't see the issue with the trans cooler in the left side. Hopefully the new 16 PSI radiator cap will make a difference.
Unfortunately, I know I'll be back to respond to this post and most likely not with good news...trying to be positive, but so far only pretty positive I'll be replacing the radiator ....yet again....just how long will it take?
Maybe your right with the bad batch, We'll see.

Thanks for trying...:thumbsup:

 

[Carlos Brown]

Rockkr4wl3r,

Sorry to hear that the problem persists, but it looks as if you may have made a little progress! I got away from using too many AutoZone parts. Most of theirs are China made now! Although I have used at least one radiator and heater core before.

Are you using a wrench to hold the radiator fitting when you are tightening the flare nut?

Good Luck with the new one!

Carlos

 

[R0CKKR4WL3R]

Carlos,

Yes, I am using a wrench. Turns out, the one they sold me had TWO washers between the brass nut and the radiator tank, which caused the lower trans cooler line to leak coolant around it. Upper was normal. Didn't even notice until I returned it. Looks like a factory screw-up.

So far so good. Running at normal temps. Never gets higher than 210. At first it did, but I re-burped the system and caught a few stray air pockets. At that point it was at the 3/4 mark on the gauge at 98 to 100 degree outside temp. Made me nervous. Haven't had her in heavy traffic yet, and not confident she'll perform properly.

As far as the radiator fan is concerned... should it be sucking IN to the engine bay, or OUT of the engine bay? Right now it's blowing out. Which seems odd if you're driving forward, it's actually fighting the outside air.

Again, faulty relay is keeping the fan on all the time, which I guess is good on these hot days, but sucks every time I stop somewhere I have to pop the hood and pull the fuse.

I'm tired of fixing and swapping out items, I just want to drive it.

Thanks for the help. :thumbsup:
​

 

[Frango100]

Your fan is running in opposite direction, it should take air through the radiator, into the engine bay and then overboard.
Was any wire connection spliced, so that maybe two wires where cross connected? The fan will most probably have a hard time to blow air against the driving airstream and will draw more current then normal and fry the relay.

 

[2005JGC]

Your fan is running in opposite direction, it should take air through the radiator, into the engine bay and then overboard.
Was any wire connection spliced, so that maybe two wires where cross connected? The fan will most probably have a hard time to blow air against the driving airstream and will draw more current then normal and fry the relay.

This! not only that but it will fight incoming air and cause an overheat!

 

[R0CKKR4WL3R]

I knew it! No one I spoke to ever heard of this happening, so it was thrown on the back burner. Nothing seems to be crossed. Everything is original, so no wire splicing has taken place. What would cause this to happen on it's own? A bad module? Where is that located?
FINALLY getting to the root of the problem!

 

[Frango100]

There is only the fan relay, which gets its signal for the fan speed from the PCM. Did you get the right fan? You could evently swap the wires to the fan, but this case is strange.

 

[2005JGC]

As frank said, its powered by a relay, power can only flow one direction (dependant on which electrical theory you operate under, conventional or electron theory, but that is neither here nor there)... Electrons flow from the most potential to the least potential (positive to negative) the power is what is controlled through the fan relay so without having wire physically backwards its not going to just happen by a failure of an item.

Make sure you are 100% sure it is infact blowing out, sometimes it can be difficult to tell. You can look at the fan blade angle and the direction of rotation wanting the closest point of the fan blade to the radiator to be cutting into the air, not the farthest point. Also a piece of paper can help. Not at all inferring an inability to determine if the fan is pushing or pulling but I know sometimes it can be difficult to tell with everything in the way and air blowing around.

If it is pushing (towards the front of the car) and not pulling (towards the engine) you can take the fan connector and carefully with a small screw driver and some patience you can pull the pins out of the connector and swap them around. If you have never pulled pins from a connector it can be a difficult task but not at all impossible. If the fan has been replaced it may have been a manufacturing flaw.

 

[R0CKKR4WL3R]

Going to try to flip the wires, just got home, and coolant is hot! So when she cools down, I'll see what I can do. Interesting info! I appreciate it!
I'm certain it's blowing out and not sucking in.
The fan only fits into the shroud one way, so getting it wrong during installation seems impossible. The wire harness clip only allows it to be joined one way. So that seems fool proof. Seems like a manufacturer flaw is the issue. Odd. I REALLY hope this solves the problem!

I'll keep you posted! Thanks again guys!:thumbsup:

 

[R0CKKR4WL3R]

Got the fan working correctly now. Used a receipt and it got sucked against the grill, and blown against the engine.
Got to get a new relay and HOPEFULLY problem solved! Tested 4 I have with Air Conditioning and only one of them work, 1 stays on all the time, the one Ive been using the whole time.