Jeep Garage  - Jeep Forum banner

21 - 40 of 48 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
I have the 2012 WK2 Laredo with the 5.7, i have roughly 135K on it and i still have the Original battery
It starts and runs fine but i have read articles that say you should replace your battery after 4 or 5 years
clearly mine is 9 years old but as i said it runs good. So should i replace it or just keep going until something
happens?. I've gone thru 2 water pumps radiator and an alternator but the Battery just keeps working
I’d say you got your money’s worth. Lol Seriously though, get’r done. You’ve been lucky. Depending on where you are, the first hot day could leave you in the lurch. A dead battery seldom happens at a convenient time so save yourself the grief!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Ya I thought they used bolt on for the bolts they were so tight idk why they would make them like that for the battery. I have a good ratchet set but no sockets that were deep enough for the bolts and my local autozone didnt have anything and I didn't know where else to go except another parts store or a repair shop so I got it out without removing the plate and got the new one in and they were HEAVY it was a workout lol
233692
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
I bought a Champion brand AGM from Pep Boys a year and a half ago. Black Friday special -- $127 plus a $50 rebate! It has a 48 month warranty, good CCA specs, and the price included install. One of the best deals I've ever found on anything.

Odyssey is premium priced brand. I don't know enough to know what the justification is for that premium.
Dang my local pep boys wanted to charge me almost $340 to replace but where I live in LA everything automotive is super expensive cars, parts, insurance, registration, repairs, GAS its all more expensive than everywhere in the middle of the country they pretty much bury you to be able to drive around here and the real estate is even worse.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
You've certainly got your money's worth from the original battery, the practical thing to do would be to replace it at your local shop at your convenience, as opposed to paying more and may be waiting a day for its arrival while on a trip.

Last fall my 2014 Trailhawk needed a new battery in Moab, but there were warning signs beforehand. My vehicle has the start-stop system, originally it would be ready -battery fully charged that is- a minute after starting, eventually it took 20 minutes and then hours and then never came up to nominal voltage, allowing Start/Stop to operate. During those times I noticed the battery system display that it was charging at 14.5 volts then 14.7 and 14.9.

What that told me is that it had to raise the voltage more than a volt in order for the system to be able to push charge back into the battery, a clear warning sign. Originally it used to charge the system while running at 14.2, or so only a half a volt above the nominal battery voltage.

If your vehicle has a system that displays the charging system voltage set it in that mode and watch what it reads (very briefly) as you initially start the vehicle, and then see what it's charging at once the vehicle is running, I would say that if you're more than 14.5 volts while running and anything less than 13.4 while stopped, your battery plates are somewhat oxidized, actually sulfated. This restricts the charging and requires the higher voltage.

I wish I had the website address, but I learned all of this stuff on a battery technology and testing website about 6 months ago. You might get lucky and find it. It shows how batteries are constructed now to give much longer life, and prevent cells from ever shorting, which used to be the most common failure of batteries. High quality batteries now have the lead plates inserted in plastic sleeves so that they can never touch and thus never short. So the only way they really die now is age and continuous cycles of discharging and recharging and sulfatng up the plates. The way that is seen is through the higher charging voltages.

Hope this helps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
You've certainly got your money's worth from the original battery, the practical thing to do would be to replace it at your local shop at your convenience, as opposed to paying more and may be waiting a day for its arrival while on a trip.

Last fall my 2014 Trailhawk needed a new battery in Moab, but there were warning signs beforehand. My vehicle has the start-stop system, originally it would be ready -battery fully charged that is- a minute after starting, eventually it took 20 minutes and then hours and then never came up to nominal voltage, allowing Start/Stop to operate. During those times I noticed the battery system display that it was charging at 14.5 volts then 14.7 and 14.9.

What that told me is that it had to raise the voltage more than a volt in order for the system to be able to push charge back into the battery, a clear warning sign. Originally it used to charge the system while running at 14.2, or so only a half a volt above the nominal battery voltage.

If your vehicle has a system that displays the charging system voltage set it in that mode and watch what it reads (very briefly) as you initially start the vehicle, and then see what it's charging at once the vehicle is running, I would say that if you're more than 14.5 volts while running and anything less than 13.4 while stopped, your battery plates are somewhat oxidized, actually sulfated. This restricts the charging and requires the higher voltage.

I wish I had the website address, but I learned all of this stuff on a battery technology and testing website about 6 months ago. You might get lucky and find it. It shows how batteries are constructed now to give much longer life, and prevent cells from ever shorting, which used to be the most common failure of batteries. High quality batteries now have the lead plates inserted in plastic sleeves so that they can never touch and thus never short. So the only way they really die now is age and continuous cycles of discharging and recharging and sulfatng up the plates. The way that is seen is through the higher charging voltages.

Hope this helps.
You might want to look into a 3 step charger for AMG batteries I got one that also repairers sulfatng of the plates if not to bad. I got one for $26 off Ebay a lot less than $300 for a new battery
 

·
Registered
2020 Jeep Grand Cherokee Summit 3.6L 4x2
Joined
·
1,655 Posts
I keep our vehicles on Battery Tenders in our garage👍.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
I keep our vehicles on Battery Tenders in our garage👍.
Yeah, I have read about the three-stage charging for AGM batteries. But other than the battery tender for my motorcycle I don't really have any battery chargers. My Jeep is mostly limited to multi-day road trips and out-of-town excursions of 50-60 miles, which comes to once or twice a week and then some 2-week trips a few times a year, where is my Mazda 3 is my around town car which gets used pretty much at least every other day for a trip or two.

I just have to hope that each vehicle can charge its battery to the best of its ability. If I only had one vehicle I might monitor more closely and get a specialized charger. I guess I always compare it to when I was growing up with vented batteries that we had to keep topped off, going bad after just two or three years, either from going dry, or a mechanical voltage regulator failing and letting it die or cook, it seems that batteries lasting four, five and six years isn't really much of an issue to me. I guess it's my general feeling is that if I can go out and start a vehicle that I haven't run in maybe two weeks and it starts I'm a happy camper.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Dang my local pep boys wanted to charge me almost $340 to replace but where I live in LA everything automotive is super expensive cars, parts, insurance, registration, repairs, GAS its all more expensive than everywhere in the middle of the country they pretty much bury you to be able to drive around here and the real estate is even worse.
That plus fire floods mud slides earth quarks power outages and droughts sounds like a fun place to live
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Replace it for the piece of mind unless your selling it soon. I bought the Interstate AGM from Costco without researching, only to find out the Advance Auto Platinum Diehard is the same battery as the Interstate. Use their 25% off code and save some money.
unfortunately they wont allow you to use the 25% discount for the batteries, only speed perks
 

·
Registered
JGC
Joined
·
409 Posts
@LexLuther Unfortunately true. Found this response from Advance Auto on another site: "As of December 10, 2020 we have discontinued additional discounts other than Speed Perks to be used on battery purchases."
So I'm back to recommending the Interstate H7 from Costco, where I'd bought mine.
 

·
Registered
2018 Trailhawk
Joined
·
180 Posts
I got a great deal at BatteriesPlus. On St. Pat's day they had a 20% off coupon and that plus the 4-yr warranty sealed the deal. They frequently have 10% off coupons floating around and keep emailing them to me. I don't have Costco around here, and Sam's was about the same price as BatteriesPlus with only a 36 mo. warranty.
 

·
Registered
Grand Cherokee
Joined
·
4,276 Posts
I guess discuss with jeep dealer .....
I can tell you how that discussion will go, "Oh yes, you need a new battery right away, we'll get one in your vehicle in a jiffy"....
3 hours later, and charged 3-4 times as much as it would cost to replace the battery yourself in 1/6th the time you'll have a new battery.....

Even the honest dealers, which are more and more rare these days, aren't going to pass up on making money from a customer that is asking if he should spend the money and inclined to do it.

For the original poster, no one has a crystal ball, your battery is older than most battery's have lasted in this vehicle. Your choice is to continue to use it until it fails to start the vehicle or go ahead and replace it now before it encounters those problems.

A jump start battery is a handy tool to have, and not that expensive anymore, so that's another option already mentioned, get a jumpstart battery so you don't get stranded and then wait till the battery fails to replace it.

That is really all anyone can tell you, you simply have to decide on your own personal risk/benefit analysis on what to do......
 

·
Registered
2018 Trailhawk
Joined
·
180 Posts
Happy Monday! For those considering a battery purchase: Batteries plus is offering 15% off battery purchase if you buy on line and pickup at store. The discount code is EMAIL15 and offer is good 10 May 2021. Hope this helps someone out. They also installed the battery for me for no charge and used a memory saver plugged into the OBDII to avoid a hard reset of everything.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
266 Posts
I replaced my battery recently at around 55k miles when I noticed the starter seemed slightly weaker compared to normal. I also noticed voltage fluctuations with engine running, whereas it has always stayed at one voltage. The next clue was when remote start would fail, and proper battery voltage and amperage is one of the things required for it to work.

I replaced it with a higher rated CCA Interstate AGM and it is amazingly strong sounding now. Voltage is constant. No remote start issues.

I carry jumper battery packs in each vehicle but I hate having issues. I have had batteries fail with zero warning (seemed particularly common on my Infinitis)--they'd sound strong one day with no warnings signs, and next day would be 100% dead.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
103 Posts
Those of you that are changing from DLG batteries to AGMs are adjusting the charging strategy in the ECM correct? They do require a different strategy or your just going to end up killing them pre-maturely anyway. My 08 Grand Cherokee with the 3.0L CRD is DLG Group 49 from the factory. Local shop convinced my dad into upgrading to a nice new top of the line Interstate H8 AGM because "it's the latest low-maintenance technology" without using the scan tool to adjust charging strat (it is after all a complete Mercedes Sprinter drivetrain with a Jeep body on it). Battery dead-dead within 2 years. Inherited the car from him with 28000 miles on it and went straight back to a H8-DLG 49 Duralast Gold from Autozone with the 5 year warranty. Battery lasts to end of non-prorata warranty every time even with all the hundreds of -20F remote starts in the winter. Don't put an AGM in the car if the ECM doesn't have a charge strat adjustment, or you don't have access to a proper scan tool because you're just wasting your money.

Actually going to swap the battery out tomorrow because this is my last 5 year non-prorata warranty battery and its up at the end of the month (they've since gone to 3 years non-prorata unfortunately) and might as well keep the endless cycle of free batteries going. Become good friends with your nearest AutoZone store manager, it will pay large dividends in the long run in endless supplies of free brake pads, rotors, batteries, pretty much anything with a good or lifetime warranty length. I change the battery right before the end of the non-prorata warranty no if ands or buts because why not, its free. Then buy new battery, warranty old immediately requesting refund instead of replacement, buy new battery, rinse and repeat. Why pay for batteries if you don't have to. It is entirely the managers discretion on replacement/refund/etc.

Even sites like RockAuto warn to "have access to a service specialist before replacing battery." Just a general heads up.
234540
 

·
Registered
Grand Cherokee
Joined
·
4,276 Posts
Those of you that are changing from DLG batteries to AGMs are adjusting the charging strategy in the ECM correct? They do require a different strategy or your just going to end up killing them pre-maturely anyway. My 08 Grand Cherokee with the 3.0L CRD is DLG Group 49 from the factory. Local shop convinced my dad into upgrading to a nice new top of the line Interstate H8 AGM because "it's the latest low-maintenance technology" without using the scan tool to adjust charging strat (it is after all a complete Mercedes Sprinter drivetrain with a Jeep body on it). Battery dead-dead within 2 years. Inherited the car from him with 28000 miles on it and went straight back to a H8-DLG 49 Duralast Gold from Autozone with the 5 year warranty. Battery lasts to end of non-prorata warranty every time even with all the hundreds of -20F remote starts in the winter. Don't put an AGM in the car if the ECM doesn't have a charge strat adjustment, or you don't have access to a proper scan tool because you're just wasting your money.

Actually going to swap the battery out tomorrow because this is my last 5 year non-prorata warranty battery and its up at the end of the month (they've since gone to 3 years non-prorata unfortunately) and might as well keep the endless cycle of free batteries going. Become good friends with your nearest AutoZone store manager, it will pay large dividends in the long run in endless supplies of free brake pads, rotors, batteries, pretty much anything with a good or lifetime warranty length. I change the battery right before the end of the non-prorata warranty no if ands or buts because why not, its free. Then buy new battery, warranty old immediately requesting refund instead of replacement, buy new battery, rinse and repeat. Why pay for batteries if you don't have to. It is entirely the managers discretion on replacement/refund/etc.

Even sites like RockAuto warn to "have access to a service specialist before replacing battery." Just a general heads up.
View attachment 234540
What's a DLG battery, as in, what does DLG stand for?
This is the WK2 forum, and the WK2 comes with an AGM battery OEM, and the FSM describes what appears to be smart charging.
I haven't heard of being able to change charging modes or specification in software configuration, I suppose its possible. But yes, charging an AGM battery to flooded acid battery specs can shorten its life. From what I read, the charging isn't that different, AGM should just be slower and a little lower top float voltage.

Daimler owned Mercedes and Chrysler while designing the WK2, the platform is shared with a Mercedes SUV, I think the "ML"? That was a joint venture.
The previous Generation of Mercedes mid-sized SUV, Daimler had Jeep design the suspension for its latest refresh and that SUV went from being panned to being praised for the updates, I think the "GL", then told Jeep to use that suspension for the Front of the WK that they designed next.

The WK is just a Jeep body on a Mercedes Sprinter drivetrain? Huh? Its a bit of stretch to group two different vehicles together because they share a drivetrain. But the Sprinter and WK have different Axles, differentials, transfer cases, surely different driveshafts. The AWD version of the Sprinter, its transfer case does look like the single speed transfer case option for the WK, so perhaps they share that. Seem like they only share an Engine/Transmission option.
 

·
Registered
2018 Trailhawk
Joined
·
180 Posts
Those of you that are changing from DLG batteries to AGMs are adjusting the charging strategy in the ECM correct? They do require a different strategy or your just going to end up killing them pre-maturely anyway. My 08 Grand Cherokee with the 3.0L CRD is DLG Group 49 from the factory. Local shop convinced my dad into upgrading to a nice new top of the line Interstate H8 AGM because "it's the latest low-maintenance technology" without using the scan tool to adjust charging strat (it is after all a complete Mercedes Sprinter drivetrain with a Jeep body on it). Battery dead-dead within 2 years. Inherited the car from him with 28000 miles on it and went straight back to a H8-DLG 49 Duralast Gold from Autozone with the 5 year warranty. Battery lasts to end of non-prorata warranty every time even with all the hundreds of -20F remote starts in the winter. Don't put an AGM in the car if the ECM doesn't have a charge strat adjustment, or you don't have access to a proper scan tool because you're just wasting your money.

Actually going to swap the battery out tomorrow because this is my last 5 year non-prorata warranty battery and its up at the end of the month (they've since gone to 3 years non-prorata unfortunately) and might as well keep the endless cycle of free batteries going. Become good friends with your nearest AutoZone store manager, it will pay large dividends in the long run in endless supplies of free brake pads, rotors, batteries, pretty much anything with a good or lifetime warranty length. I change the battery right before the end of the non-prorata warranty no if ands or buts because why not, its free. Then buy new battery, warranty old immediately requesting refund instead of replacement, buy new battery, rinse and repeat. Why pay for batteries if you don't have to. It is entirely the managers discretion on replacement/refund/etc.

Even sites like RockAuto warn to "have access to a service specialist before replacing battery." Just a general heads up.
View attachment 234540
Interesting food for thought. I "upgraded" my wife's volvo battery from a standard lead acid battery to an AGM when we bought it in 2013. I was so excited to divorce myself from the leaks and vapors from the old lead acid batteries and no longer had to fool with acid absorbing mats, corroded connections, etc. So far the AGM battery is doing good, and seems to tolerate the charging strategy of the old volvo electronics. I guess its been over seven years, so I think I got my money's worth from that old AGM. A new battery is probably in my future for the volvo, and it will probably be another AGM. Since my Trailhawk came from the factory with AGM, I assume their charge strategy is already where it needs to be - of course as we've all read here the ones with auto stop/start seem to eat batteries.
 

·
Registered
Grand Cherokee
Joined
·
4,276 Posts
Interesting food for thought. I "upgraded" my wife's volvo battery from a standard lead acid battery to an AGM when we bought it in 2013. I was so excited to divorce myself from the leaks and vapors from the old lead acid batteries and no longer had to fool with acid absorbing mats, corroded connections, etc. So far the AGM battery is doing good, and seems to tolerate the charging strategy of the old volvo electronics. I guess its been over seven years, so I think I got my money's worth from that old AGM. A new battery is probably in my future for the volvo, and it will probably be another AGM. Since my Trailhawk came from the factory with AGM, I assume their charge strategy is already where it needs to be - of course as we've all read here the ones with auto stop/start seem to eat batteries.
For the last 20 years or more, the manufacturers added a temp sensor and alter the charging voltage according to temperature, early form of smart charging. The colder it is, the higher the charging voltage. So, from what little I've read about AGM batteries they are less tolerant of overcharging, the charging is not that much different, just a lower maximum voltage, which drives overcharging. Most AGM say no higher than 14.4V, I've read as low as 14.25V. But AGM, like flooded and Lithium Ion batteries in cell phones can safely charge at higher voltages, that voltage just has to be reduced before it becomes fully charged or you over charge it.

I've never seen more than 14.8V from a modern charging system and that was in below freezing temps, and it reduced closer to 14V as the vehicle warmed up.

So unless you spent a lot of time driving in extreme cold you may not have exceeded AGM Specs or at least by much. Because AGM batteries can take a higher voltage than the single voltage charge limit listed, as long as the voltage is lowered before fully charged.
 

·
Registered
2012 JGC
Joined
·
259 Posts
A AGM will sent you back closer to $300 I would love to know where you can get one for $159 the Odyssey I just got was $275
I purchased a Super Start H7 AGM at O'Reilly Auto parts for $170 last fall (battery still tested good at 8 years plus, but was nervous it would fail in the winter). The battery fit perfectly and the install was easy -- I just looked and it is the same price today.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mongo53

·
Registered
Grand Cherokee
Joined
·
4,276 Posts
I have purchased 3 AGM battery's over the last 6 years, all the H7, (for different vehicles), for about $200 at local auto or department stores.
 
21 - 40 of 48 Posts
Top