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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

About a month ago, I bought a new 2019 Trailhawk (with the 5.7L Hemi) and have about 3500 miles on it so far. Approximately 1000 or so miles ago, I started noticing a pull to the left when braking from speed. It will always pull to the left, even against the crown of the road. It is now at the dealership and Jeep engineering has said that is a normal characteristic of the vehicle. I test drove 3 other Jeep GCs with the Hemi and none of them exhibited this problem. Dealership is utterly worthless in my opinion, but I have been told by the service manager at another Jeep dealership that I cannot take my Jeep to his place because Jeep doesn't want two different dealerships working on the same problem. I suspect this is to minimize the chance of a lemon law claim.

Anyway, I do have Jeep Customer Care involved (they've been involved since the start) but have so far not been helpful. I have asked the service manager at the current useless dealership as well Jeep Customer Care to bring in a factory technician to look at the problem and explain to me why only my JGC has this pull and not others. I am at my wits end with this problem because everyone claims it's normal and yet I know it isn't and can prove it. Any thoughts on what I might be able to do or am I just screwed?

Thanks!
 

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Does it pull to one side under acceleration? Hard acceleration or transmission shifts? How about downshifting to decelerate, does it pull to one side? I would suspect alignment if it did.... Especially if it pulls to opposite side when accelerating and the same side for deceleration, regardless if its braking or downshifting....

If it only does it while braking, then that sounds like a bad caliper, or possibly a problem with the pads or mechanical motion of the pads and caliper.... ...and that's another problem, cause it might be the opposite caliper applies less force as it could be the right caliper applies more force....

You're either going to have to wait for Customer Service Comes through, look into the Lemon Laws or fix it yourself or have an independent shop fix it. If you can document the brake problem, you can apply for reimbursement from Chrysler.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It only happens while braking. I am not paying a shop to do work on a vehicle that is under warranty and is defective. I will just get rid of this piece of junk if that's what it comes to. The useless dealership is towing the Chrysler line that it's all in spec and they can't see any problem despite the service manager seeing the problem himself. Jeep won't allow me to take it to another dealership because they don't want two dealerships working on the same problem. Customer Assistance has been mute on the issue. More uselessness.
 

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What are they saying? If there is no codes, there is nothing they can do? We've been hearing this from folks that have obvious problems that should be fixed under warranty, yet the Dealer and Corporate doesn't do any troubleshooting and testing that is right in the books for them to diagnose problems, and instead they simply say there are no codes, therefore how do you think we can fix it? Sadly customers don't know they have books sitting on their shelves telling them how they can diagnose and fix it without any codes..... ...those things take time, which is charged to corporate under the warranty, so it appears from their behaviour, they want a code that can be fixed at the lowest labor cost possible or the training and quality of employees has plummeted so low, they don't realize this either......

Like I said, one of your options are Lemon Laws, you need to educate yourself on it and start documenting things now....
I can't imagine you're going to succeed with a Lemon Law without spending some of your time and money.....
FCA is going to claim to the arbitrator that there is nothing wrong with your vehicle, you going to have to offer some evidence other than your opinion that shows it is malfunctioning.....
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Tommorow, I am scheduled to show both the general manager and service manager the problem again. There are no codes for a brake pull. Its a matter of eliminating potential problems and whatever remains has to be the source of the issue. Dealership isn't interested in actually putting in the effort. Simple things like checking brake line pressure, rotor temperature, changing tire locations, checking the alignment, etc. Hell, I even diagnosed the precise are where the poorly engineered side view mirrors were whistling. Took it to them and they did a hack job just applying silicone to the small joint between the clamshell halves that make up the mirror. It's just basic incompetence that I should have expected from a craptastic company like Chrysler.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Okay, so today was potentially an important turning point with this issue. After taking the general manager and service manager for a ride, duplicating the brake pull over multiple hard stops (with hands on the wheel), it was confirmed via IR thermometer that the front driver's side brakes were 30 degrees hotter than the passenger side - and this was after the brakes had had a little bit of time to cool down. This never came out in prior testing because they never tried multiple hard stops one after the other. So, it's back to Chrysler to see what their response will be. I certainly hope it isn't the standard "that's normal, they all do that" response.
 

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I'd think they'd consider swapping sides with the rotors, but keep the pads in their original location. Repeat the stopping procedure and take temperature readings to compare with the first test.
 

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Either the rotor, caliper and pads need replacing on the other side, a brake line needs bleeding, ABS malfunction or possibly the proportioning valve system.
Not much more can cause pulling to one side during braking.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The service manager said that typically in these scenarios the calipers sticking are the main culprit. To my way of understanding, it would seem the calipers on the opposite side (passenger side in this case) would be the main suspect for sticking, not the driver's side. We will see. The ball is in their court.
 

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A caliper sticking would cause it to pull to the side of the caliper after you release the brakes, while you're applying the brake it could be either direction....

As in, the caliper sticking is resisting the piston being pushed out, so the it applies the brakes late or with less pressure, or the piston resists retracting/being pushed back by the pad, so it engages sooner and releases late....

The fact the front calipers are dual piston, one piston can take over for the sticking one, and really mask the symptoms... ...unless that sticking piston finally jams extended and won't retract, thus leaving the caliper squeezing the pads and keeping the brake on at that wheel (which is what happened to me, and when I finally figured out my calipers were sticking, before then I just hard a weird acting brake pedal)....

One thing I noticed doing all my brake work on my WK2, newly rebuilt calipers and good calipers, if the bleed screw is open or the line disconnected, so no fluid is trapped creating pressure/resistance, the pistons move in and out easily and smoothly by hand, there be a little resistance that comes from the seals, but you can easily push the piston in by hand.... ....the calipers I suspected were bad or were clearly bad, the pistons couldn't be moved by hand, even with the bleed screw open and the line disconnected.... ....I don't know if that is a "legitimate" test of a caliper... ...but tell you what, if I try that on two calipers and one has a piston/s that I can't move by hand with the bleed screw open, I'd suspect that one was the bad one...
 

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Love to see how this plays out. So far you have done all the diagnostic work....what is your labor rate? LOL

I pretty much did the same diagnostic work with my faulty drivers side intake VVT actuator rattle noise I get upon cold start....factory Rep says "working as designed"
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Love to see how this plays out. So far you have done all the diagnostic work....what is your labor rate? LOL

I pretty much did the same diagnostic work with my faulty drivers side intake VVT actuator rattle noise I get upon cold start....factory Rep says "working as designed"
I am going to assume you're referring to the Hemi engine? If so, I can't say I hear that on mine on startup, however, after allowing the engine to warm up for about 30 seconds, I back out of the garage, pull into the street and move forward, I can hear a tapping sound coming from the engine. Goes away after a little bit and wonder if it is a lifter or other problem just waiting to blow up down the road. I expect to get out of this vehicle within a year or two because I have been reminded just how bad Chrysler is, especially since being bought out by one of the worst, if not THE worst, car companies on the planet: Fiat.
 

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I am going to assume you're referring to the Hemi engine? If so, I can't say I hear that on mine on startup, however, after allowing the engine to warm up for about 30 seconds, I back out of the garage, pull into the street and move forward, I can hear a tapping sound coming from the engine. Goes away after a little bit and wonder if it is a lifter or other problem just waiting to blow up down the road. I expect to get out of this vehicle within a year or two because I have been reminded just how bad Chrysler is, especially since being bought out by one of the worst, if not THE worst, car companies on the planet: Fiat.
No this is on my 3.6L Video for your listening pleasure..... :mad::mad::mad::mad:

 

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Discussion Starter #15
Got the word last night: they are replacing driver's side front caliper, rotor, brake pads and brake line after approval by Chrysler "engineering". That's pretty much everything brake related that resides at the wheel well area there. Nothing on the passenger side. I am not 100% confident this is going to fix the problem because my gut tells me the issue is on the right (passenger) side, but I have definitely been wrong about these things before so we'll go through the process.
 

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Love to see how this plays out. So far you have done all the diagnostic work....what is your labor rate? LOL

I pretty much did the same diagnostic work with my faulty drivers side intake VVT actuator rattle noise I get upon cold start....factory Rep says "working as designed"
I am going to assume you're referring to the Hemi engine? If so, I can't say I hear that on mine on startup, however, after allowing the engine to warm up for about 30 seconds, I back out of the garage, pull into the street and move forward, I can hear a tapping sound coming from the engine. Goes away after a little bit and wonder if it is a lifter or other problem just waiting to blow up down the road. I expect to get out of this vehicle within a year or two because I have been reminded just how bad Chrysler is, especially since being bought out by one of the worst, if not THE worst, car companies on the planet: Fiat.
Both the HEMI and 3.6L have VVT, the HEMI has a single cam in the block with one VVT in the center, the 3.6L is DOHC with 4 cams and a 4 VVT's, 2 per bank... (and I might be wrong in that it might only be 2 VVT's 1 per bank)... ...but, a HEMI's VVT tick can't be on one side of the engine, its in the center....

Tic's on startup can be the...
  • Evap Emissions Purge Solenoid
  • And exhaust leak, especially at the manifold, that often heats and expands enough to seal the leak after a few seconds to minutes....
  • The Hemi Tic
And the HEMI has a problem with breaking its exhaust manifold bolts, its worse with the HEMI's in the RAM trucks...

There can be other problems, like the VVT that 6t9chrgr figured out on his... (I had a 69 Charger for years BTW)

I just ordered new bolts and gaskets for my Exhaust Manifolds, I have the tic on start up for about 5 to 20 sec, depending on how cold soaked the engine is.... ...I have put my ear to it while ticking it is definitely coming from the rear of the passenger side exhaust manifold....
 

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I pretty much did the same diagnostic work with my faulty drivers side intake VVT actuator rattle noise I get upon cold start....factory Rep says "working as designed"
I expect to get out of this vehicle within a year or two because I have been reminded just how bad Chrysler is, especially since being bought out by one of the worst, if not THE worst, car companies on the planet: Fiat.
This is why Lee Iaccoca rounded up a bunch of investors and tried to do a hostile takeover of Chrysler when Daimler had bribed the CEO and Board with becoming fabulously wealthy if they sold the company to Daimler.... ....he knew the company was on the edge of becoming the industry leader.... ...under Iaccoca they had recovered and had better engineering and manufacturing than anyone else... ...they had the most cash on hand and the least debt, also making them very attractive to get a hold of....

...granted some of the most popular Chrysler vehicles are built off old Mercedes platforms because of the deal... ...but imagine if Chrysler had designed them themselves instead of Daimler taking all their cash and said you can have these old Mercedes and improve upon them....

...Mercedes had Chrysler/Jeep design the suspension of their Mercedes SUV, and then told them to cheapen that suspension and put it on the WK.... ...Jeep basically designed the next generation SUV for Mercedes which became the U.S. WK2... ..but tell a Mercedes fan boi that and they'll go nuts and tell you its not true....

And yes, Fiat's focus has been on new car sales to get healthy to the point they are burning every bridge for return customers.... ..every resource goes to the assembly lines, cut everything for supporting vehicles already in the field... ...they demand their Suppliers cut prices more and more, but are shocked when they get crap parts supplied just because they demanded and paid crap prices...

But you tell a Maserati or Alpha Romeo fan boi, there is Chrysler Technology in their vehicle they will go nuts and tell you its not true.... ...um, your engine block is the same and comes from the same factory as Chrysler's, who designed the engine block...
 

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Discussion Starter #18
It would have been a lot less stressful if the dealership had put in the time to properly diagnose the problem rather than trying to blow me off and tell me everything is normal. Even Chrysler's "engineering" didn't even think to try multiple hard stops to see if a problem came out. After a 23 year ban on all things Chrysler, I decided to give Jeep a chance and I was rewarded with this experience. Lesson learned and I won't be a customer again of this company for rest of my life.
 

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..

There can be other problems, like the VVT that 6t9chrgr figured out on his... (I had a 69 Charger for years BTW)
Do tell....where is it now?? If you still have the VIN I might be able to locate it....I started up a '69 Registry years ago....had over 2500 '69's registered...
 

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First off you can take it to any dealership you want regardless if the first dealership has not fixed it. I bought mine from MANN Jeep ( what a joke of a Dealership) they gave me the same run around you are getting. I then took it to another dealership where we think they have found the problem and is in the process of getting parts to fix. I have had mine since FEB, it has 1400 miles on it. Had to get an attorney to get some relief from Chrysler but it is finally looking like I will finally get to drive my jeep after 9 months
 
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