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Discussion Starter #21
so i took a look, and i have non vented (unless the vents rusted through, lol) but they seem thicker than those in the pics. i did not know the vented wouldn't fit since the caliper width would need to be wider, so thanks for pointing it out.

what do you think of the Bosch brakes with the Wagner Thermo Quiet or Akebono ceramic pads?
that i can get both locally within a day or so - https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/quietcast-3077/brake-systems-16456/brake-drums-rotors-16509/brake-rotor-11306/d133f11235f8/bosch-quietcast-brake-rotor/16011493/2577290/2013/jeep/grand-cherokee
 

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The photo I posted is an example, not WK2 brake rotors, just the first brake rotor photos I found that shows an example of non and vented rotors. So its not surprising you're look different. So you need SD brake rotors.

Wagner Thermo Quiet, I have had on another vehicle and thought they were good, I've seen others post good things about them....
Bosch Rotors, hmmm, I'm not a big fan of Bosch, but that's their sensors and electronics, perhaps their rotors are OK.....
Personally, I'd choose AC Delco over the Bosch, but that was a separate store from the Wagner Thermo Quiet pads....
 

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Discussion Starter #23
thanks for you insights. finding a quality brake and pad set up is not as easy i had hoped.

i can also get the Akebono pads in by Monday if those are better than the Wagners.

saw these rotors by Power Stop which i could also order for install next week...https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-traction-control/performance-brake-rotors/power-stop-performance-brake-rotors-ar83075/1025040_1457117_17366_4024.
 

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Wagner Thermo Quiet pads have a good rep, people have posted here saying they love them on their WK2..... ....I'm not so sure Akebono pads would be that much better....
Honestly, I would not wait for Akebono pads, unless for some reason you really prefer them....

Remember in this thread IAmTodd said he had PowerStop conventional rotors and they wore out very quickly.... ...that might have been the Z36 pads he used with them, some pads are hard on rotors and eat them up.....
Bosch, I just don't know how good their rotors are, I know some of the aftermarket parts Bosch sells is just garbage, so that would worry me, even though I have no idea of the quality of their rotors.....

AC Delco has an excellent rep, I saw you had linked them as being a possible from one of your local stores, I say go with the AC Delco......

Carquest Wearever rotors I'd consider an option, Carquest was absorbed by AdvanceAuto (CMIIW) and I think they kept the brands arrangement, that's why you see AdvanceAuto advertising Carquest Wearever Rotors, instead of AdvanceAuto rotors.... ....Carquest and NAPA Auto Parts have their own in house brands that are actually just quality aftermarket parts.... ....I have used NAPA ultra-Premium Rotors all the time, they are just Raybestos Premium Rotors, they are very good... ...I believe the Carquest Wearever rotors are the same thing..... ...if I was stuck on the road, I'd use Carquest Wearever rotors without thinking twice....
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
upon double checking (at night with a headlamp) the front rotors are vented. what i am wondering now is whether i have the tow package and need heavy duty rear rotors. i thought only the tow package 2013 V6s had slotted fronts and non vented rears. The model is TrailHawk but it's a Laredo E with off road 2 group, if that helps. my window sticker is at home, and it may list exactly which brakes it needs - HD or SD. guess i can always call a Jeep parts dealer. the rears seemed pretty wide to me, albeit rusty. other than seeing the Chrysler symbol on the brake pad, there is nothing else to distinguish them. b/c there are so many variables to consider in getting pads and rotors, i may just call a Jeep Dealers Parts Dept. for a quote.
 

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The front brakes provide most of the braking load, that is why they are always bigger and have features to handle more heat, like Ventilating, and the rears are usually smaller and lighter, and don't always have the heat handling features, like ventilating, sometimes they do.

Slotted rotors have slots cut into the surface of the disc.

If the rotor has open voids inside the disc, it is a "ventilated" rotor. The voids make the rotor much thicker.

Your rear rotor may "look" thick, but if they do not have voids to make it ventilated, then it is SD and you need to replace it with a SD rotor.

SD Brakes have 330mm Ventilated Front Rotors and 320mm Solid Rear Rotors.

HD Brakes have 350mm Ventilated Front Rotors and 320mm Ventilated Rear Rotors.

All WK2's have Ventilated Front Rotors, only the ones with solid rear rotors are the SD brakes.


If you order HD rotors for the front and you have SD Brakes, they will not fit, you will need to get the adapter/bracket for HD brakes that moves the caliper farther out to fit the bigger diameter front rotor. If you order the HD rotors for the rear and you have SD Brakes, they will not fit, you will need to get the bigger rear calipers of HD brakes to fit over the thicker rear rotor.

The first year or two of production for the WK2, the higher end Trim Levels got HD brakes....
Since then, the V6 got SD brakes, the V8 and Diesel got HD brakes, regardless if it came with a Tow Package or Trim Level.

If you're just having the rear brakes done, then get the rotor that are already on there, the solid rear rotor. I can assure you, if you get ventilated rotors, the calipers will not fit over them.

If you're going to do the front as well, I'm very confident you have SD brakes, simply by the fact you have solid rear rotors, get the 330mm front rotors.... ....the fact you also have a 2013 V6,only confirms it, pretty sure by 2013, they were doling out the HD/SD brakes according to engine, and V6's got SD brakes.

AFA Pads, the same pads fit both HD and SD brakes.....
Yes, it is true OEM, the HD brakes came with a slightly different formulation front pad, but they are physically identical in shape and form. So it doesn't matter if you have HD or SD brakes, afa Pads are concerned, they fit both HD and SD brakes.
 

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Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
i def have a vented (not slotted) front rotor, but did not see any offering to fit either front or rear in any size but 330mm on all 4 corners using all fitment charts for a 2013 JGC Laredo. only 330mm (actual size at 329mm in some cases) was offered at Auto Zone, O'Reilly's, and Advance Auto was listed as exact fit in the rear of 2013s with 330mm. the only 320mm rear rotors i saw were for older JGCs, through 2010. am super confused now.

TrailHawk trim level cam with 18" wheels but the rear are solid, so i think the 330mm is correct. how can i be sure ?
will a 329mm rear rotor will fit if my 2013 rear are SD and 320mm?
 

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The listings for rotors I see for the auto stores, don't say HD or SD brakes, nor do they say BRY or BR6 Brakes.... ....they identify the brakes by if the front rotors are 330mm or 350mm....

So you're looking for rear rotors, it will say, "Rear Rotors, w/330mm Front Rotors", or something like that....

If you're looking them up online, and you identify the engine, they may only be listing SD brake components, because I think your year, V6's only came with SD brakes....

Again, there are only two possible brakes for your vehicle HD or SD Brakes.

There are not SD brakes with rear HD rotors, or some brakes with 330mm rotors or HD front brakes by SD rear brakes, just HD or SD, that fit the description in my last post.

Its possible I'm off on the rear rotors being 320mm, maybe they really are 330mm, or 299mm, there are only SD or HD rotors, if your rear rotors are solid rotors, then you need to get solid rear rotors....
 

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Here are specs, I was wrong, they list the rear rotors as 330mm.

The HD/SD brakes did not change over the years.


BRAKES
Type Power, single-rate, tandem diaphragm vacuum, anti-lock braking system (ABS) Availability Standard
Front
Rotor size and type
13.0 x 1.3 (330 x 32) vented disc – V-6
13.8 x 1.3 (350 x 32) – EcoDiesel and 5.7-liter V-8
15.0 x 1.34 (380 x 34) vented disc with Brembo six-piston caliper and ABS – SRT 6.4-liter V-8
15.0 x 1.34 (380 x 34) 2-piece aluminum hat performance rotor, directionally slotted with Brembo six-piston caliper and ABS – available on SRT model
Caliper size and type
1.89 (48) two-piston pin-slider caliper Swept area, (sq. in. / sq. cm)
282 (1,820) 104.2 (672) - SRT

Rear
Rotor size and type
13.0 x 0.55 (330 x 14) disc – V-6
13.0 x 0.87 (330 x 22) vented disc – EcoDiesel and V-8
13.78 x 1.10 (350 x 28) disc with Brembo four-piston caliper and single-channel ABS – SRT
13.78 x 1.10 (350 x 28) Performance disc , directionally slotted with Brembo four-piston caliper and single-channel ABS available on SRT
Caliper size and type
1.89 (48) single-piston pin-slider caliper Swept area, (sq. in. / sq. cm)
257 (1,658) 79.0 (508) — SRT
 

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Discussion Starter #30
wow how did you find that? i was looking for that information all weekend! thanks for posting. in searching the same PDF files, the fronts are listed as 12.9" and rears are smaller, as you said at 12.6". here is the 2013 specs, so i really don't know whether a 330mm rotor will fit in the rear - parts guy said as long as they're not wider than 13" they should:
 

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They tend to round the numbers.....
Especially tires, they are standard "nominal" sizes, but the actually tire can vary slightly......

So I wouldn't be surprised if the rears are 326mm and they just round it to 330mm....

Of course we exclude the SRT/Trackhawk, because they have even bigger Brembo Brakes....

All other WK2 have the same brakes through all the years, either HD or SD brakes...
If you have a solid rear rotor, you have SD brakes....
If you have a vented rear rotor, you have HD brakes.....

They are the same diameter, you have SD brakes, just make sure you get a solid rear rotor.....

The front HD rotors are 350mm, the front SD rotors are 330mm, just make sure to get the 330mm front rotor, if you're going to get them, for your SD Brake V-6 WK2....
 

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Discussion Starter #32 (Edited)
Sooooo.....my cousins local one man shop in my home town PA) installed the rotors and pads this morning (jacking up the rear versus using a lift). I seated them per Wagner instructions by gradually stopping from 30 mph to a full stop and waiting 30 seconds to a minute between for them to cool. the rotor coating is already off on the top 2" section of the rotors but the bottom section closest to hub has not worn off at all. so i drove back and told the mechanic who said it takes time for the coating to wear off, but i explained it is not hitting the rotor evenly. remembering that the inspection station said the pads were not contacting at all in the rear due to rusted rotors, am pretty pissed that neither side seems to be making full contact. he explained there is nothing you can do b/c the pads are flat and that's how they make contact on Jeep. he said the front half of the pads need to wear down before the 2nd half of the pads make contact. i sure hope he is right and the pad will eventually make full contact b/c it needs to pass inspection back in VA.
 

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Sooooo.....my cousins local one man shop in my home town PA) installed the rotors and pads this morning (jacking up the rear versus using a lift). I seated them per Wagner instructions by gradually stopping from 30 mph to a full stop and waiting 30 seconds to a minute between for them to cool. the rotor coating is already off on the top 2" section of the rotors but the bottom section closest to hub has not worn off at all. so i drove back and told the mechanic who said it takes time for the coating to wear off, but i explained it is not hitting the rotor evenly. remembering that the inspection station said the pads were not contacting at all in the rear due to rusted rotors, am pretty pissed that neither side seems to be making full contact. he explained there is nothing you can do b/c the pads are flat and that's how they make contact on Jeep. he said the front half of the pads need to wear down before the 2nd half of the pads make contact. i sure hope he is right and the pad will eventually make full contact b/c it needs to pass inspection back in VA.
This is normal, there is nothing wrong....

Keep in mind the outside of the disc is moving faster than than the inside. So the outer edge having any coating on the swept area of the rotor should wear off faster than the inner portion of the disc because the surface is moving faster and more distance traveled under the pad.......

I've noticed this on all my new rotors and pads.

If it hasn't evened out after a couple hundred miles, then I'd start to worry and only start at that.

What rotors did you get? Do they have the silver coating that covers the disc that is swept by the pad? Or are you referring to the milled surface of the rotor, that has a different texture/appearance after its been worn in by the pads? Cause if its the texture/appearance of the disc surface, that the new rotor has this milled cross-hatching, while broken in is just smooth metal, that might take more than a couple hundred miles to even out, but not much more than a couple of hundred miles.

I wouldn't worry about the VA re-inspection, as soon as they see new brakes they are going to pass you..... ....there is a difference between a rusted uneven surface rotor that only half the pad is contacting and brand new pads and rotors that the inner portion of the disc hasn't worn down to the same as the outer portion of the disc yet, they know that, they aren't going to fail you for that.....

Where in PA is your hometown? Mine is State College. My daughter lives in Franklin PA, by Oil City, and a little further Clarion PA.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
State College, nice. been there a few times. went to Clarion undergrad, back when it was still CUP, lol!! small world. loved growing up here. wish i could have stayed in the area for work. miss my family/friends so much. lots of good humans up this way.

having had very limited options for upgrading rotors and pads within both the area and time frame i had to get this done, i did go with the Bosch Quiet Cast rotors. read a hundred 4-5 star customer reviews and several online parts "experts" who listed them as their first, 3rd, and/or 5th best overall. the final sign was when i noticed the coffee grinder i am using this week is a Bosch and it's 24 years old. the rotors have a zinc coating which is what wore off only on the top part. but your explanation makes perfect sense. and even the mech said the front part of the pad would wear first or fastest before the other half of the pad would. i went with the Wagner Thermo Quiet pads which i read several "experts" who put the pads in the top 3.

i will wait to see how well these rotors perform and will likely have the same mech do the front when they need it. i'd give them a year to year & 6 months tops.

thanks again for you help navigating parts options, really helped take the worry out of the process.
 

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My daughter went to Clarion.

I'm sure you'll be fine with Bosch Rotors, now O2 sensors, stay away from Bosch O2 sensors, they are garbage.....

Yea, the front brakes do most of the braking you probably won't notice any difference in performance until you do the front brakes.
 

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Check out Brake Motive on ebay since they're the same as Powerstop, but better pricing.

Brake Motive eBay
Just want to share my experience about this eBay seller. Buyer beware.

I bought the z36; 4 rotors and pads to go with.
Seller is responsive and kind.
Shipped very late.
When it arrived, I discovered that they shipped me 4 rotors and only 2 sets of pads (I was missing 2).
I had to cancel my appointment with my mechanic because of that.
I reached out to seller, they made it right by sending me a complimentary spare set.
Upon further inspection, they are the z23, not the z36.
I thought I was buying z36 since the listing said Heavy Duty, and Truck/Tow Pads. They were actually z23 and this seller doesn't sell z36.

Long story short, I'm exhausted and feel like this was the universe telling me I shouldn't proceed with PowerStop.
 

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You're the only person I've seen have an issue with Brake Motive out of everyone that has ever posted about them. The Carbon ceramic pads are supposed to be the Z36 pads, while the others ceramic are Z23 from what I've read. Did they tell you they don't sell the Z36 pads? curious
 

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You're the only person I've seen have an issue with Brake Motive out of everyone that has ever posted about them. The Carbon ceramic pads are supposed to be the Z36 pads, while the others ceramic are Z23 from what I've read. Did they tell you they don't sell the Z36 pads? curious
Correct. I had the carbon ceramic pads in hand and they were the z23s. I inquired why not z36 and they specifically said they don't sell those. Then they provided me with a refund less $90.03 return shipping. So I'll be filing a dispute with my credit card. Overall a really bad/annoying experience.
 

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Hmmmm interesting. Then I wonder what their regular ceramic pads are that they sell.
 

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as pads I just installed Raybestos Element 3 on my WK2 and I'm super impressed.
I really don't believe that you have to replace pads and rotor on a car with 23k miles
 
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