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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have this in the WK section too.
I am putting together a new intake tube and I was wondering how I should terminate it inside the air box. The tube will be able to go into the air box and end above the air filter. If both ends are cut at 90 degrees, due to the bends in the tube, the short side length is 27 1/2 inches and the long side length is 32 inches. Should I leave the ends at 90 degrees or cut the end off at an angle to make both the short and long sides 27 1/2 inches, so the traveled length be the same across the tube? I looked through the hemholz resonator info online and never saw a good answer. I figure the acoustic pulse will occur around 4500 rpm during WOT., so it should be a nice boost when the power is starting to fall off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
My current plan is to run the tube into the box just like it is laid out in the pictures. I would like to add a horn to the end of the tube ( IIRC I've seen this layout on ultra-performance autos) to help the entry into the tube to have nice smooth flow, but first I have to get to the tube into the box. I want to keep the tube as long as possible as this will keep the resonant frequency in a lower RPM range ( around 4500 RPM) to provide some boost....getting above 100% Volumetric efficiency. It looks like I'll need to cut about 1 1/2 inches off the current air box outlet to slide the tube in and then I'll use a 3 1/2 x 3 silicone coupling to seal the tube to the box. I don't think air flow volume will be an issue. My calcs show that 3 inch is just right for a 3.7L running up to about 5500 RPM. Also the air filter should be able to support about 400HP,so that's not a bottleneck. I need to take a closer look at the inlet to the airbox and see if that needs opening up. My main question is how the uneven lengths of the two sides of the tube will effect the resonance. I may call the pipe organ builder I know to see what they say.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the input! I don't want any more noise and I want the air as cool as possible, so that is why I am keeping the stock air box which pulls air from in front of the radiator. I never got around to talking to my organ people today.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yes, I am looking for quiet and powerful ( or at least more powerful). The stock intake tube with its accordian probably creates all sorts of turbulence, so I am trying to smooth the air flow and hopefully hit an acoustic resonance to help force feed the engine at a usable RPM. I also plan to do some front more front end aero mods to increase pressure above the bumper to use it as a splitter to create downforce and bring the air dam down lower to cover all the low hanging hardware. That air dam will tie into a front bellypan to again increase downforce and create a low pressure zone in the engine compartment which should improve air flow over a now more restricted radiator. The little 3.7 v-6 has room for increased mpg if the aero drag is reduced on the highway. I've done some drafting with semis and saw a nice increase in MPG holding steady speeds. Strongjeff in the 3.7l Performance love thread said he gets between 26 and 34 MPG on the highway with his heavily modded 2 wd 3.7 ( all bolt-on, including chip). That's my target, though I have 4WD. We plan on buying a southern CA WK in a few years that I want to transfer all the upgrades I work out to it so the time invested won't be a waste. Rust is strarting to take a toll on our current WK, though it runs great at 208,000 miles with no oil burning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yeah, and for the little v-6 the air box filter is plenty big. I forgot to say I will also be insulating the air tube and the air box to keep engine bay heat out of the air stream... like this Iceman intakeon my Zetec equipped 98 Escort wagon. That's foam duct and pipe insulation that I also used for sound deadening and insulating the load floor of the wagon. If you want to go fast cheap, the Ford ZX2 with ZETEC and Manual trans stock goes 0-60 in about 7.8 seconds. A few built ons and now you have a hemi beater.... or at least older hemis.... and get around 25 city and around 33 highway MPG. The magic of older, lighter weight compact cars.



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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yeah, I've thought that too. I had to trim the silicone connector as short as possible to keep the intake from rubbing up against the hood. I believe the SVT version has the TB a bit lower and angled slightly up the driver's side of the engine. However, that Intake setup seems to be good to around 160 to 170HP out of the little 2.0l engine. It funnels down from about 3 inches to about 2 1/4 over its length and really bumped the mid and upper power on the stock engine with only a shorty header. Interestingly enough, dyno tests with shorty headers on this motor saw low rpm power increases while flattening out at High rpms..... weird.
 
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