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I recently relocated to south Florida. I took my 2015 Limited into one of the local dealers for an oil change at 43K miles. I have the unlimited MaxCare service plan, so I was also hoping to learn something about the local dealers service departments in case I ever needed future repairs covered under MaxCare. The dealer said they always use synthetic or semi-synthetic oil even when Jeep only requires conventional oil, because the Florida heat is tough on the engines. That said, their price with coupon was very reasonable for semi synthetic oil. $33

Then they wanted me to do a front and rear differential service at $170 each. They said this was required because Jeep considers south Florida driving as severe service. The owner’s manual never requires a fluid change. It says every 20K miles you should “Inspect the front and rear axle fluid, change if using your vehicle for police, taxi, fleet, off road or frequent trailer towing.” They also wanted me to do a transfer case service at $130 using the same logic. The owner’s manual says to inspect every 30K miles and change at 120K.

Finally, they strongly recommended a Fuel Induction Service at $200. Of course shop fees and tax is added to all prices.

If I don’t do any of their suggestions, will I ever have an issue with MaxCare. I would rather not do more than what is required because I have MaxCare, but having never lived in this kind of heat, I don’t want to be stupid. Should I run, and check out another dealer the next time I need an oil change? Or should I just smile and continue to say no, thank you.

By the way I am living in a place that forbids doing any fluid changes or car repairs on property, so I can not do it myself.
 

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Should I run, and check out another dealer the next time I need an oil change?

^^^Run, as fast as you can :cool:
What coast are you on? I'm guessing the East coast, I can probably even guess the dealer, although there's a few that are horrible over there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Should I run, and check out another dealer the next time I need an oil change?

^^^Run, as fast as you can :cool:
What coast are you on? I'm guessing the East coast, I can probably even guess the dealer, although there's a few that are horrible over there.
I am in West Palm Beach. There are 2 dealers within 15 minutes.

I also had a second experience today. I just bought tires at Costco, and I wanted an alignment. The same Jeep dealer had a coupon that made their price competitive with the tire chain stores. The dealer did another one of their free multi point inspections with the alignment. The tread on my spare went from 10/32 to 12/32. The brake linings on all 4 wheels went from 7mm to 11mm!! Time to try someone else.
 

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Stopped by my local dealership (NY)(now stealership) to get an oil change and tire rotation. I am getting the same recommendation from my local dealer as well. He even showed me my “rear differential” oil to show me that it burnt and or bad. I took a look at it, and rubbed it b/w my fingers and such. This oil was not burnt and still had the feel of new oil. I know what burnt oil looks like, and smells like, the oil was not even close to being even considered bad. Guess the stealership thinks oil is bad if its dark in color. I even asked him how do I know this is my oil, he just kinda looked at me. I even checked under the car, to see if any oil was drained. I didn’t see any remants like oil leave around the drain plug.

The dealer wanted 480, for the front rear and transfer case. I am at the point where I am going to start looking for a new dealer for oil changes. After reading this post, I am more inclined to just do things myself now I was in a property that didn’t allow oil changes, I have since moved and so I think the next oil change will be done by myself...funny thing was I almost payed for it on my last visit.
 

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Semi-Synthetic? Did they mean Synthetic Blend?

South Florida, with heat, salt air, the roads made with sea shells mixed into them.... ...it might be wise to consider it severe service, and use the Severe Service maintenance schedule. Especially if your usage sides more on the severe usage, like making mostly short trips, being stuck in traffic, driving more aggressively than average. The list in the O.M. is just an example, not the entire list of what constitutes severe service.

Another good indicator, if you have algorithm oil change tracker and it goes off sooner than the recommended oil change interval, then your usage of the vehicle is likely severe.

Using Synthetic or Synthetic Blend oil does make sense to me with that heat, if you do it yourself, what you save in labor easily exceeds the extra cost of the synthetic (advice for others since you live somewhere you can't DIY).

But usually dealer's like this, recommend stuff way over the service service schedule just to take your money. The Fuel Induction Service? Nothing in the O.M. about that. A lot of the Stealerships buy these gimmick items from the aftermarket and use it to rake in more money.

A decade ago, Chrysler sent out a TSB warning against Flushing their transmissions, they still had dealerships that had bought transmission flushing machines from the aftermarket, telling their customers they needed a transmission flush, despite the manufacturer specifically recommending against it.

So yea, I'd be looking for a good independent shop to do the work for you......
 

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I agree, run away. My dealership in Rochester NY pulled the same transfrer case and differential scare routine on my 2015. At 55k they claimed I was 25K past the intervals for these services despite no towing, no offroad. Looking back over my records, they also have never done the 30K inspection of these fluid levels, I guess there is no profit in these items.
 

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My worst experience was with my 2003 Liberty and a dealer I no longer have anything to do with. I was in for a repair and was told my brake pads and rotors needed to be changed. It could have been true as I had over 80,000 miles on them. They then quoted me a price of over $1,200 for this service.

Thinking they were on crack I went to another dealer, purchased all of the parts, and replaced everything myself in under 3 hours (I had to use heat to remove 1 rotor). The parts totaled about $350. I have hard time thinking it would have taken the first dealer $850 worth of labor to do the same job. Even the 2nd dealer thought the 1st dealer was on crack for wanting to charge that much.

The end result is that I do almost all of my own work unless it is way more than I want to tackle.
 

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How often should the differential fluid be changed? The maintenance schedule in the owner's manual just shows to check it every 20K miles. The Transfer case fluid says check every 30K miles and replace at 120K miles. Does that mean the diff. fluid should last 180K miles?
 

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I did change my front and rear diff fluid at around 24k. The rear fluid was looking bad. Front was ok. I’m planning to do one more change probably at around 60k and then not for a while. The manual esentially says „play it by ear”. From my experience initially as diffs break in you want to change them often. On another truck I was able to get 80k and fluid looked good after first teo changes.

That being said at 40k if you have never done it I would replace it. It is also very simple DYI job (open top plug, open bottom plug, wait for fluid to drain, close bottom and refill with about 2qt of fluid, close top plug).

To do front diff you might have to take the skid plate. Also a simple diff fluid pump is useful.

Fluid is kind off odd spec (75w85 If I remeber correctly) . Redline makes it. I just used mobile 75w-90 and have no issues.

Good luck.
 

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I did change my front and rear diff fluid at around 24k. The rear fluid was looking bad. Front was ok. I’m planning to do one more change probably at around 60k and then not for a while. The manual esentially says „play it by ear”. From my experience initially as diffs break in you want to change them often. On another truck I was able to get 80k and fluid looked good after first teo changes.

That being said at 40k if you have never done it I would replace it. It is also very simple DYI job (open top plug, open bottom plug, wait for fluid to drain, close bottom and refill with about 2qt of fluid, close top plug).

To do front diff you might have to take the skid plate. Also a simple diff fluid pump is useful.

Fluid is kind off odd spec (75w85 If I remeber correctly) . Redline makes it. I just used mobile 75w-90 and have no issues.

Good luck.
So I'm going through this too. I think all the dealers have the same "recommended" service.


I just rolled past 40k in my 2015 and off-road with it a fair amount, but at $380ish for the diffs and xfer case it made me wonder how easy of a DIY it is.

I'm not seeing an amount of fluid listed in the manual for the diffs and xfer case; is a "just fill it til you feel it?"


Edit: At 2qts per diff, it looks like about $130-150ish for fluids for the 3 and supplies (pan, pump, etc) from Amazon. Probably a little more locally.
 

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I think one of the reasons for the high cost of the dealer diff fluid change is the ~$60 a quart Mopar diff fluid. I'm planning on doing mine in the next couple of weeks and using Redline.
 

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I did mine at 40k. Diffs are super easy. I used 75w-90. The 75w-80 fluid is super expensive and difficult to locate other than the dealer. The transfer case takes generic ATF+4 (QTII/QDII). Draining is easy but the fill plug was a little tricky to get to around the exhaust as was filling it. Always remember with each of the 3 to remove the fill plugs before removing the drain plugs.
 

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I did mine at 40k. Diffs are super easy. I used 75w-90. The 75w-80 fluid is super expensive and difficult to locate other than the dealer. The transfer case takes generic ATF+4 (QTII/QDII). Draining is easy but the fill plug was a little tricky to get to around the exhaust as was filling it. Always remember with each of the 3 to remove the fill plugs before removing the drain plugs.
How much of each fluid did you use, 2qts per?
 

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How much of each fluid did you use, 2qts per?
Capacities are listed here depending on the diff you have:
Jeep Grand Cherokee WK2 - Maintenance information and schedules

Holy cow! Why is the Mopar diff fluid so expensive? Just brand name?


Mopar 75w85 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TWO07S


Both are synthetic


Compared to Red Line - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000J3G8KE


Here's the Mopar ATF if anyone needs - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TWDVM8
Toyota used the same weight. I'm guessing for fuel economy. Both are equally as expensive and for both of the vehicles I've owned I've just used off the shelf 75w90 synthetic.
 

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So I'm going through this too. I think all the dealers have the same "recommended" service.


I just rolled past 40k in my 2015 and off-road with it a fair amount, but at $380ish for the diffs and xfer case it made me wonder how easy of a DIY it is.

I'm not seeing an amount of fluid listed in the manual for the diffs and xfer case; is a "just fill it til you feel it?"


Edit: At 2qts per diff, it looks like about $130-150ish for fluids for the 3 and supplies (pan, pump, etc) from Amazon. Probably a little more locally.
Capacities are listed here depending on the diff you have:
Jeep Grand Cherokee WK2 - Maintenance information and schedules
Basically you need to buy 3 Qts of Fluid. IIRC, the front is 1.1Qts and the rear varies between just less than 1Qts to 1.5Qts. Basically you need 3 Qts of Fluid to do the change and will have a little left over.

The XFR Case takes 2 Qts, and QTI XFR case take a little more than 1 Qt IIRC, but it uses a special XFR Case fluid, not ATF+4.

Holy cow! Why is the Mopar diff fluid so expensive? Just brand name?


Mopar 75w85 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TWO07S


Both are synthetic


Compared to Red Line - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000J3G8KE


Here's the Mopar ATF if anyone needs - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TWDVM8
Toyota used the same weight. I'm guessing for fuel economy. Both are equally as expensive and for both of the vehicles I've owned I've just used off the shelf 75w90 synthetic.
It could be, or it could be because these viscosities circulate the best in the differential to keep it best lubricated.

I see enough posts about people using Synthetic 75W-90, I doubt the extra 5 pts is going to be a problem, you'd think we'd hear about it if it did.

That price for ATF+4 is ridiculous, FCA has a licensing program, anything labeled ATF+4 had to be blended just like FCA blends their ATF+4. I've seen it for $5-$6 quarts at Walmart.

I haven't seen the Mopar differential fluid for less than 4 to 5 times the price of the best synthetic that is 75W-90.

Personally I use AMSOIL Multi-Vehicle Synthetic ATF and Synthetic Gear Lube.
 

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Looping back to the start, any recommendations for dealers in Palm Beach County or nearby?

That's where I'm headed soon..

thanks, ...tom
 

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When I lived in Phoenix and the surrounding area I was driving Jeeps and never had the dealer tell me it was a severe service area. South Florida maybe the humidity would take away a little life but I don't think when you're doing 70 on the highway the ambient temperature has much to do with your axle temperature. If Jeep is calling that severe service then they aren't building them they way they should.
I don't know what's going on with Jeep dealers over the last couple years but after ~30 years of owning the brand I'm not to sure I'll buy another. I thought I just had a bad local dealer, but some of the stories on here show it's widespread.
 

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When I lived in Phoenix and the surrounding area I was driving Jeeps and never had the dealer tell me it was a severe service area. South Florida maybe the humidity would take away a little life but I don't think when you're doing 70 on the highway the ambient temperature has much to do with your axle temperature. If Jeep is calling that severe service then they aren't building them they way they should.
I don't know what's going on with Jeep dealers over the last couple years but after ~30 years of owning the brand I'm not to sure I'll buy another. I thought I just had a bad local dealer, but some of the stories on here show it's widespread.
FCA is still in crisis mode, at least they don't seem to have the leadership to get out of it, they've let their Dealership Network go down the tubes and I've seen no effort to raise their standards, heck if anything they seem to be corporate has started adopting the shoddy practices of the Dealerships, it's rare to find a story about a good one, and the horror stories of horrible ones are the norm today.....

AFA severe duty, it's an attitude, just how much you over do the maintenance of the vehicle. Personally, high temperature areas like Florida and Arizona, I would use Synthetic Oil......

And let's keep in mind, the O.M. Service recommendation is to "Inspect the front and rear axle fluid" every 20k miles. That means if you find any indication the fluid is bad, you replace it then. So is everyone inspecting their axle fluid every 20k miles and replacing it if its bad?

FCA says the Power Steering and Brake Fluid last the life of the vehicle, many of us don't believe that and change it ourselves, but if the Axle Fluid never needed to be changed, they would say the same as the Power Steering and Brake Fluid, they don't......

I suspect the axle fluid won't last the life of the vehicle, that is why they have you check it every 20k miles and replace it as necessary......
Some people read that as, Axle Fluid doesn't need to be replaced ever..... .....which is a pretty darn dumb way to interpret that statement....
I read that as the Axle Fluid might need replaced as soon as 20k miles, but not always.... .....either check it every 20k and change it as necessary, or pick an interval and just change it, personally every 40-60k miles I'm changing mine....
 
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