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I'm going to get straight to my issue. I own a 2012 Grand Cherokee Laredo. When I open or the driver side door the door hinge pops at about the half way point. Any suggestions how to remedy this problem without buying a new lower door hinge?
 

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Door check/door hinge, thought they were the same. It's the bottom one. I guess that is a door check. Any ideas how to fix the problem. I was thinking about drilling a small hole in it, then fill it with white lithium grease from a can.
 

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Just replaced mine a couple days ago. 2014. As far as I know, they can't be serviced. Could try drill, tap and add a zerk.
They are about $50 unpainted at stealership. I just painted them black, so they don't rust. It was a 2 man job for sure, to avoid damaging door, I put shop rags in the gap between door and fender.
I did top and bottom hinges. It operates like butter, but took some doing to align the door accurately.
 

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Door check/door hinge, thought they were the same. It's the bottom one. I guess that is a door check. Any ideas how to fix the problem. I was thinking about drilling a small hole in it, then fill it with white lithium grease from a can.
The door check is sometimes built into one of the hinges, sometimes its a seperate parts.

The hinges allow the door to swing open/closed. The check has a spring and detents that apply some force to hold the door in position at several different position, so it doesn't swing back on you as you get in and out.

When the door check, if it corrodes or lacks lubrication will not move through the detents smoothly and make a noticeable popping noise as its forced through the detents.

I'll look at my 2011 and get back to you, likely they are configured the same.

Have you tried to lubricate it? Sadly today, our society, specialization, disposable consumerism, etc.... Everyone assume nothing needs to be maintained and just replaced as soon as there is a problem.... I have found spraying WD-40 into qreaking door hinges or popping door checks quiets them for months. Arguably them making noise at all is proof they are worn/damaged, but a squirt of WD-40 every 6 months certainly beats the cost and effort of replacing a hinge or check.

Oh, the O.M. usually recommend white lithium grease for door hinges and checks, and it does work. But I've also found when it starts to make noise, the white lithium doesn't penetrate the dry part of the hinge or check well and doesn't solve the problem, WD-40 does the trick and works much better. Might also be proof you have a wear/damage, but again you have to decide if it's better to treat the symptoms or invest in the cure.
 

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The hinges allow the door to swing open/closed. The check has a spring and detents that apply some force to hold the door in position at several different position, so it doesn't swing back on you as you get in and out.
If only....


On perfectly level pavement, my driver's side door is forever wanting to take my left leg off swinging back closed. Even in my garage where the floor is pitched toward the middle to send water to the center drain, (and with me parked so the door is on the low side) it wants to come back at me. It's like it's got an automatic door closer built into it.


On the other hand, a breeze stronger than a worm fart coming from behind the vehicle will practically cause it to fly out of my hand when I open it.



I've never had a vehicle that has so much trouble holding the door in position.


My F-150 had awesome door checks. I could practically park facing uphill and the door would stick open. Likewise, when I opened it, it almost never took off, even in a stick tailwind.


I must of gotten the "hey you punk kids, get off my lawn" edition of door check - and it doesn't seem to have its teeth in.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Door check/door hinge, thought they were the same. It's the bottom one. I guess that is a door check. Any ideas how to fix the problem. I was thinking about drilling a small hole in it, then fill it with white lithium grease from a can.
The door check is sometimes built into one of the hinges, sometimes its a seperate parts.

The hinges allow the door to swing open/closed. The check has a spring and detents that apply some force to hold the door in position at several different position, so it doesn't swing back on you as you get in and out.

When the door check, if it corrodes or lacks lubrication will not move through the detents smoothly and make a noticeable popping noise as its forced through the detents.

I'll look at my 2011 and get back to you, likely they are configured the same.

Have you tried to lubricate it? Sadly today, our society, specialization, disposable consumerism, etc.... Everyone assume nothing needs to be maintained and just replaced as soon as there is a problem.... I have found spraying WD-40 into qreaking door hinges or popping door checks quiets them for months. Arguably them making noise at all is proof they are worn/damaged, but a squirt of WD-40 every 6 months certainly beats the cost and effort of replacing a hinge or check.

Oh, the O.M. usually recommend white lithium grease for door hinges and checks, and it does work. But I've also found when it starts to make noise, the white lithium doesn't penetrate the dry part of the hinge or check well and doesn't solve the problem, WD-40 does the trick and works much better. Might also be proof you have a wear/damage, but again you have to decide if it's better to treat the symptoms or invest in the cure.

These door hinges are internal so they aren’t serviceable. But I think as one member said was to to drill then fill with lithium grease. This will be easier than removing the hinge becuse the door has to be removed. That poses a problem realignment of the door.
 

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On my 2011, there is no separate door check. But the lower hinge has a large cylinder built into it that obviously must be the door check. WD-40 is penetrating oil, and if you keep applying it, a little everyday, it continue to penetrate more and more each day.

I would attempt the WD-40 first, reapplying it everyday for a week, if it doesn't improve the door check within a week, then give it up and get a new lower door hinge.
If only....


On perfectly level pavement, my driver's side door is forever wanting to take my left leg off swinging back closed. Even in my garage where the floor is pitched toward the middle to send water to the center drain, (and with me parked so the door is on the low side) it wants to come back at me. It's like it's got an automatic door closer built into it.


On the other hand, a breeze stronger than a worm fart coming from behind the vehicle will practically cause it to fly out of my hand when I open it.



I've never had a vehicle that has so much trouble holding the door in position.


My F-150 had awesome door checks. I could practically park facing uphill and the door would stick open. Likewise, when I opened it, it almost never took off, even in a stick tailwind.


I must of gotten the "hey you punk kids, get off my lawn" edition of door check - and it doesn't seem to have its teeth in.
Ummm, you're statement sounds like you've convinced yourself that the WK2 doors were designed to do this? But then acknowledge you must have some sort of problem with your door check?

You're door check is broken, attempt to fix it or replace it, it's really that simple.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
WD-40 works on some applications, however what I believe is inside that cylinder is packed with grease. The WD-40 will run right through it leaving it dry. So my original solution was to drill a small hole in that cylinder then fill it with grease. If that doesn’t do the trick then I’ll buy a new part and have somebody help me hold the door while I remove it. Hard part might be aligning the door.

On my 2011, there is no separate door check. But the lower hinge has a large cylinder built into it that obviously must be the door check. WD-40 is penetrating oil, and if you keep applying it, a little everyday, it continue to penetrate more and more each day.

I would attempt the WD-40 first, reapplying it everyday for a week, if it doesn't improve the door check within a week, then give it up and get a new lower door hinge.
If only....


On perfectly level pavement, my driver's side door is forever wanting to take my left leg off swinging back closed. Even in my garage where the floor is pitched toward the middle to send water to the center drain, (and with me parked so the door is on the low side) it wants to come back at me. It's like it's got an automatic door closer built into it.


On the other hand, a breeze stronger than a worm fart coming from behind the vehicle will practically cause it to fly out of my hand when I open it.



I've never had a vehicle that has so much trouble holding the door in position.


My F-150 had awesome door checks. I could practically park facing uphill and the door would stick open. Likewise, when I opened it, it almost never took off, even in a stick tailwind.


I must of gotten the "hey you punk kids, get off my lawn" edition of door check - and it doesn't seem to have its teeth in.
Ummm, you're statement sounds like you've convinced yourself that the WK2 doors were designed to do this? But then acknowledge you must have some sort of problem with your door check?

You're door check is broken, attempt to fix it or replace it, it's really that simple.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the feedback. I’m amazed that when I look up repacking the door hinge/check on YouTube there is never a video on these, just the old style door hinges.
 

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I started having the same issue on the driver's door on our 2014. I might try spraying some wd-40 or lithium grease around the lower hinge. At first it was just barely noticable and now a week later it makes a loud pop when it gets to the door check part. That's about the limit of my wrenching skills.
 

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One more having the same issue. 2015 Altitude here.
I was thinking that to replace the lower check hinge it would be easier by sustaining the door while open with some sort of jack. The combination of the jack and the upper hinge would be enough to keep the door aligned while the lower hinge is replaced.
Am I wrong?
 

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One more having the same issue. 2015 Altitude here.

I was thinking that to replace the lower check hinge it would be easier by sustaining the door while open with some sort of jack. The combination of the jack and the upper hinge would be enough to keep the door aligned while the lower hinge is replaced.

Am I wrong?


That’s an interesting though ZX have you tried this? I also have a 2015 Altitude and I am experiencing the door popping. I hear no noise but I feel it as I open/ close my driver side door.
 

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has anyone gotten to the bottom of this without changing the hinge? i soaked it in WD-40, white lithium grease and silicone.. drilled a hole in the stupid cylinder; soaked it in there. nothing. honestly might be worse.

if i have to change the hinge, i don’t understand the need to remove the entire door for one hinge at the bottom with 3 bolts?
 

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Door check/door hinge, thought they were the same. It's the bottom one. I guess that is a door check. Any ideas how to fix the problem. I was thinking about drilling a small hole in it, then fill it with white lithium grease from a can.
The door check is sometimes built into one of the hinges, sometimes its a seperate parts.

The hinges allow the door to swing open/closed. The check has a spring and detents that apply some force to hold the door in position at several different position, so it doesn't swing back on you as you get in and out.

When the door check, if it corrodes or lacks lubrication will not move through the detents smoothly and make a noticeable popping noise as its forced through the detents.

I'll look at my 2011 and get back to you, likely they are configured the same.

Have you tried to lubricate it? Sadly today, our society, specialization, disposable consumerism, etc.... Everyone assume nothing needs to be maintained and just replaced as soon as there is a problem.... I have found spraying WD-40 into qreaking door hinges or popping door checks quiets them for months. Arguably them making noise at all is proof they are worn/damaged, but a squirt of WD-40 every 6 months certainly beats the cost and effort of replacing a hinge or check.

Oh, the O.M. usually recommend white lithium grease for door hinges and checks, and it does work. But I've also found when it starts to make noise, the white lithium doesn't penetrate the dry part of the hinge or check well and doesn't solve the problem, WD-40 does the trick and works much better. Might also be proof you have a wear/damage, but again you have to decide if it's better to treat the symptoms or invest in the cure.

These door hinges are internal so they aren’t serviceable. But I think as one member said was to to drill then fill with lithium grease. This will be easier than removing the hinge becuse the door has to be removed. That poses a problem realignment of the door.
where would you screw the hole? and what size bit?
 

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WD-40 works on some applications, however what I believe is inside that cylinder is packed with grease. The WD-40 will run right through it leaving it dry. So my original solution was to drill a small hole in that cylinder then fill it with grease. If that doesn’t do the trick then I’ll buy a new part and have somebody help me hold the door while I remove it. Hard part might be aligning the door.

On my 2011, there is no separate door check. But the lower hinge has a large cylinder built into it that obviously must be the door check. WD-40 is penetrating oil, and if you keep applying it, a little everyday, it continue to penetrate more and more each day.

I would attempt the WD-40 first, reapplying it everyday for a week, if it doesn't improve the door check within a week, then give it up and get a new lower door hinge.
If only....


On perfectly level pavement, my driver's side door is forever wanting to take my left leg off swinging back closed. Even in my garage where the floor is pitched toward the middle to send water to the center drain, (and with me parked so the door is on the low side) it wants to come back at me. It's like it's got an automatic door closer built into it.


On the other hand, a breeze stronger than a worm fart coming from behind the vehicle will practically cause it to fly out of my hand when I open it.



I've never had a vehicle that has so much trouble holding the door in position.


My F-150 had awesome door checks. I could practically park facing uphill and the door would stick open. Likewise, when I opened it, it almost never took off, even in a stick tailwind.


I must of gotten the "hey you punk kids, get off my lawn" edition of door check - and it doesn't seem to have its teeth in.
Ummm, you're statement sounds like you've convinced yourself that the WK2 doors were designed to do this? But then acknowledge you must have some sort of problem with your door check?

You're door check is broken, attempt to fix it or replace it, it's really that simple.
have you come to a resolution ?
 

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Ok, I am going to revive this topic !

As I previously wrote, my issue is with the lower hinge of the front door on the driver side: I get the annoying popping sound when I move the door !

This happened after I drove around a construction site where there was a lot of dirty water mixed with concrete powder and I think it got inside the hinge.

Since I decided to try to fix the hinge before buying a new one ( and having to paint it ) I thought about doing this procedure.

I will switch the faulty lower hinge of the front door on the driver side with the one from the back door on the driver side since it is exactly the same part number.

I decided to do this because I want to be free to examine ( and maybe fix ) the faulty hinge without having to leave the car door opened.

I will start from the back door lower hinge since you can access the relative bolts even with the back door closed and so without the need to support the door while you remove it.

Then ( using a car jack to keep the front door leveled while being open since this is the only way to access those bolts ) I will remove and replace the faulty hinge of the front door with the one from the back door.

Now I can leave both car doors closed and have the time to examine the faulty hinge and maybe find what went wrong inside of it.

I will keep you posted!
 
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So, I tried the hinge swap as per my previous post but I had to "abort the mission" due to some issues I have encountered.
I was able to remove the lower hinge from the back door without any problem as per attached pictures.
But, when it was time to remove the lower hinge from the front door, I realized that that lower hinge would have been in an "open position" compared to the "closed position" of the lower hinge removed from the back door.
Unfortunately, I didn't have a way to put the lower hinge removed the back door in an "open position" since the internal spring/mechanism is very, very strong in order to keep its position ( it feels easy when you open/close the door since you are benefiting from the very long leverage )
Second issue: even if I would have found a way to change the position of the lower hinges, I don't think I would have been able to remove the lower hinge from the front door while it was in an "open position" due to the tight space to operate between the open door and the frame of the car ( as per attached picture )
If anyone has a solution to this which doesn't involve the detachment of the front door from both hinges ( and subsequent difficulty in alignment of the door ) please let us know.

By the way, I was able to inspect the lower hinge removed from the back door: the cylinder that hold the spring/mechanism is completely sealed and it is covered by an external cylinder of plastic. I tried to drill it (thinking to squeeze some lubricant inside) but could only drill the external plastic one ( 1 mm thick ) and decided to stop in order to avoid to make things worse by trying to drill deeper ( maybe drilling into the spring itself and breaking it )

All the best !
 

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