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I am in the same boat here. 2014 Overland and getting the popping when opening the driver's door. I am fine with just replacing the lower hinge, I just wanted to see if anyone here has done it and how difficult was it? Can the hinge be removed with the door in the open position and just replaced with the new hinge in the open position? I'm sure it's not that simple, but here's to hoping!
 

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I am in the same boat here. 2014 Overland and getting the popping when opening the driver's door. I am fine with just replacing the lower hinge, I just wanted to see if anyone here has done it and how difficult was it? Can the hinge be removed with the door in the open position and just replaced with the new hinge in the open position? I'm sure it's not that simple, but here's to hoping!
Unfortunately you cannot replace the lower hinge of the driver door when it is open since there is not enough space to do so. The door side has protruding pins where the bolts go and they are in your way when you want to remove the hinge.
The only option is to disconnect the door from both top and bottom hinge and move it just one inch away in order to have the space to remove the lower hinge.
I think i should be able to complete this job by placing some sort of support under the opened front door and the help of a buddy to keep the door upright while it is disconnected and pulled that inch away from the car body.
Of course by doing that i could find myself in the dreaded situation of having to realign the door which could be a pain!
 

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Bunch of pussies it’s an easy job takes about 20 minutes start to finish
13mm spanned small trolley jack some rags to protect the paint

I opened the drivers window and used a ratchet strap to tie it to a beam in my carport

Then trolley jack with a piece of wood and rags under the door apply slight pressure

Remove two nots holding hinge to door
Remove two bolts holding hinge to frame

Raise the door very slightly with jack,

Out with the old in with the new

Tighten everything up and check alignment

In my case the catch end was to high so tweek it down

Perfect

Clean up and done, no more annoying clunks

I bought the hinge from moparonline he posted it to me in australia

I cleaned it with wax and grease remover , primered it and painted

I got a aerosol can of the correct paint mixed up in advance

It’s probably taken longer to type this than actually do the job

Oh one last thing the hinge came to me in the closed position. I put the frame end in a vice with plastic jaw protection and use a thick bladed screw driver in one of the door mounting holes to prise it open

I painted it in the open position, as it can’t be seen in the closed hehehehe

Come on don’t put up with the noise swap it out

Total cost around $60 AUD
 

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Bunch of pussies it’s an easy job takes about 20 minutes start to finish
13mm spanned small trolley jack some rags to protect the paint

I opened the drivers window and used a ratchet strap to tie it to a beam in my carport

Then trolley jack with a piece of wood and rags under the door apply slight pressure

Remove two nots holding hinge to door
Remove two bolts holding hinge to frame

Raise the door very slightly with jack,

Out with the old in with the new

Tighten everything up and check alignment

In my case the catch end was to high so tweek it down

Perfect

Clean up and done, no more annoying clunks

I bought the hinge from moparonline he posted it to me in australia

I cleaned it with wax and grease remover , primered it and painted

I got a aerosol can of the correct paint mixed up in advance

It’s probably taken longer to type this than actually do the job

Oh one last thing the hinge came to me in the closed position. I put the frame end in a vice with plastic jaw protection and use a thick bladed screw driver in one of the door mounting holes to prise it open

I painted it in the open position, as it can’t be seen in the closed hehehehe

Come on don’t put up with the noise swap it out

Total cost around $60 AUD
Pussy here!
I don’t understand. Did you remove only the bolts of lower hinge in order to get sufficient space and extract the lower hinge by applying enough up pressure with a jack?
Take a look at the picture: i used the jack provided by jeep in order to keep the door in place when i was testing the possibilty of removing the lower hinge of the back door with the door kept in the full open postion.
Can i do the same with the front door ?
IMG_9663.jpg
 

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Yep just gentle jack up the outer edge, I tested the theory by gently lifting the door at the outer edge
And there was suffice t movement to allow the hinge to be removed, if I had some one else with me one could have lifted the door while the other removed the hinge, however on my own it was super easy just to gently raise the outer with a small trolley jack

While the top hinge is in place and the door is secured from falling over its very easy

Hardest part was the lower bolt on the body side just a bit fiddling to get at

Took me 23 minutes

Go for it just take your time and wrap plenty of rag around the doors leading edge to protect the paint

And thanks for not taking offence at the pussie comment, it was not directed at anyone, just I jest
 

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Yep just gentle jack up the outer edge, I tested the theory by gently lifting the door at the outer edge
And there was suffice t movement to allow the hinge to be removed, if I had some one else with me one could have lifted the door while the other removed the hinge, however on my own it was super easy just to gently raise the outer with a small trolley jack

While the top hinge is in place and the door is secured from falling over its very easy

Hardest part was the lower bolt on the body side just a bit fiddling to get at

Took me 23 minutes

Go for it just take your time and wrap plenty of rag around the doors leading edge to protect the paint

And thanks for not taking offence at the pussie comment, it was not directed at anyone, just I jest
Hi EMac,
Thanks for your reply.
Basically we are going to benefit from the elasticity of the metal brackets of the upper hinge in order to shift up the entire door just the little needed in order to have the space to remove the lower hinge.
I was concerned that bending the brackets would ruin them.
I will follow your instructions and perform this repair.
 

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Yep all good the door moves quite freely once the lower hinge is removed

I opened the window and tied a ratchet strap around the window frame and tied it to a beam in my carport just to be sure the door was well supported.

Oh and do you want to know how nice it was today to be able to open and close the door without the clunk clunk.

Worth every cent
 

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Mission Accomplished!
Thanks to eMac for his push to complete this projects!
I didn’t have to use a rope to to sustain the door.
I just used the car jack provided by Jeep and little by little i have unscrewed the bolts and raised the door in order to be able to remove the noisy hinge.
All good but now my door has two or three millimeters of out of alignment but i am sure i will be able to rectify it by readjusting the position of the hinge.

IMG_9771.jpg
IMG_9766.jpg
IMG_9772.jpg
 

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Great work, doesn’t it bring you happiness NOT to here that clunk,clunk,clunk every time you open/close the door
 

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Great work, doesn’t it bring you happiness NOT to here that clunk,clunk,clunk every time you open/close the door
Very much ! I couldn’t stand the clunk anymore!
 

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Thanks for all the great info here!
I was wondering why my, somewhat new to me Jeep, had this problem.
In my opinion (because of a not perfect sealing) some dirt enters the inside mechanism of the hinge and dries out the lubricant making the mechanism itself noisy. I am picturing a steel ball pushed by a spring that settles itself on some grooves enabling the stopped positions of the door. Without a lubricant the steel ball “grinds” against the grooves
 

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Your assessment is basically correct except it’s steel needle rollers not balls

And it’s not lubricant drying out it’s the indents in the alloy hub that get hammered by the needle rollers , causing a ridge.

Oh and drilling the outer sleeve for a grease nipple is useless, the outer sleeve is plastic.

And grease can’t get past the massive square sectioned retaining spring.

I cut my old hinge open to see what was going on and to see if there was a repair option

So when your hinge starts clunking you have two options

Live with it, or replace it.

It’s a relatively inexpensive part and is simple to replace.
The only time consuming thing is painting it, and allowing drying time.
 

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Your assessment is basically correct except it’s steel needle rollers not balls

And it’s not lubricant drying out it’s the indents in the alloy hub that get hammered by the needle rollers , causing a ridge.

Oh and drilling the outer sleeve for a grease nipple is useless, the outer sleeve is plastic.

And grease can’t get past the massive square sectioned retaining spring.

I cut my old hinge open to see what was going on and to see if there was a repair option

So when your hinge starts clunking you have two options

Live with it, or replace it.

It’s a relatively inexpensive part and is simple to replace.
The only time consuming thing is painting it, and allowing drying time.
Thanks for the explanation. Now i get it. Basically a not very well engineered stop hinge.
Regarding painting the hinge, i purchased an OEM 5oz paint spray can matched to the paint code of my car which you can find on the label placed on the inside of the frame when you open the drive door.
image-2020-02-17-10:21:55-220.jpg

I used a thin nylon cord to hang the hinge and some painter tape to cover the plastic outer sleeve so that it was easy to paint the all thing and i let it dry for 12 hours
 
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