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Rocky Road also sell a skid plate that fits immediately behind the pre-runner. They conformed that it doesn't interfere with the Mopar underbody protection so that's good.
Hey Bob. Where did you see that plate that fits behind the pre-runner? I looked on the RRO website but couldn't see it.
 
Hey Bob. Where did you see that plate that fits behind the pre-runner? I looked on the RRO website but couldn't see it.
Skidplates, rock sliders, and rocker guards protection for Grand Cherokee the thing at the bottom centre is what I thought was it because they show it next to the pre-runner. However, since you mentioned it I clicked on it and it seems it's a "fuel line skid plate" whatever that is. I'll check under the car tomorrow. Sorry for the bum steer.
 
OK, had look under the car. Yep, coming out of the fuel filter housing are three corrugated tubes. They could contain fuel lines, one to each tank and one to the engine. If so, they are really exposed and I have the full Mopar under-body protection. I can't see any evidence of a plastic skid plate as mentioned by Rocky Road. Fancy designing a 4x4 where fuel lines need an after market skid plate. That's going on my bucket list for sure.
 
If you have the full mopar skid plate package you should have the steel fuel line plate. It should be on the passengers side and covers between the fuel tank plate and the transfer case plate.
 
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Slightly off topic, I've got the ORAII and noticed that above the front metal skid plate, there is what appears to be the original cardboardy plastic skid plate. The front skid plate installation instructions make no mention of this. It doesn't seem right that there should be a plastic layer above a metal skid plate. It would only catch dirt and moisture. The transfer case skid plate installation instructions show the original plate, which I assume was plastic, to be removed and in my case it was removed.

Can someone without the metals plates please check if they have a plastic skid plate over the sump area? Also, could someone who has the metal plates check to see if they too have both plastic and metal front plates sandwiched together?

I pulled the front skid plate off and was surprised to find that someone has attempted to glue the plastic and metal plates together with silicone. It didn't hold. I'm puzzeled but for now I'll put only the metal plate back.
 
I put on the skid plates myself and originally there was just the 'cardboard/plastic' plates or covers. I removed them and replaced with the steel ones as per the instructions. It sounds like they haven't removed the front or sump one and just bolted the steel one on top.
 
I put on the skid plates myself and originally there was just the 'cardboard/plastic' plates or covers. I removed them and replaced with the steel ones as per the instructions. It sounds like they haven't removed the front or sump one and just bolted the steel one on top.
Thanks for that, Roachy. That makes sense. The weird thing is that they attempted to glue the two together. The ORAII is a factory option but my guess is that the plates are attached by either the detailers or the dealer. It certainly smells that way. Anyway, I feel happier now that I've got rid of that waffly piece of cardboard. To get back on topic, my next mission is to get a "real" front skid plate in front of the sump skid plate.
 
Thanks bill, I recall also recovery hooks on the menu? How is that one going?
Regarding sump protector looks great, black powder coat would be good. Given its 6mm steel from memory, angled drainage holes might be good as opposed to slots which would weaken the design more (potentially).
Great work mate and best of luck on the new Co.
Regarding recovery hooks, if load tested, hook (pun intended ... boom tish) me up for a set.
 
Thanks bill, I recall also recovery hooks on the menu? How is that one going?
Regarding sump protector looks great, black powder coat would be good. Given its 6mm steel from memory, angled drainage holes might be good as opposed to slots which would weaken the design more (potentially).
Great work mate and best of luck on the new Co.
Regarding recovery hooks, if load tested, hook (pun intended ... boom tish) me up for a set.
Yes Recovery Hooks are also on the menu. I should get the prototypes from the laser cutters early next week. Of course they have been telling me that for 3 weeks now. LOL! I'll post a new thread with photos when I have them. And they will definitely be load tested and engineer certified.

Our first prototype for the Sump Protection Plate was 6mm 5005 Aluminium. It got the job done, but deformed during 'testing' (ahem... hitting a large rock off-road). So we've moved to 3mm hardened steel for the design of the 2nd prototype, along with some strengthening cross bends. I'm hoping to have the 2nd prototype ready for testing in a week or two.
 
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Any progress here? I damaged my front at Fraser this week.... Annoying because I'd been so careful all along but got distracted by an oncoming car and hit a hidden bump and bottomed the front end. Was in ORH1 at the time. Brett how did you go wit the insurance? My air dam is not damaged it's the plastic behind it that the air dam attaches to.
 
Any progress here? I damaged my front at Fraser this week.... Annoying because I'd been so careful all along but got distracted by an oncoming car and hit a hidden bump and bottomed the front end. Was in ORH1 at the time. Brett how did you go wit the insurance? My air dam is not damaged it's the plastic behind it that the air dam attaches to.
Did the same thing second time on sand. The plastic thing behind the air dam is the Air Inlet Baffle (Mopar #5165706AA). They are as brittle as. I bought a new one from the States from here OEM Part Number 5165706AA from Jeep - rtpartsco, $63.14USD + freight. I don't know what they cost locally.
 

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That's exactly what I broke...doesn't look as bad as yours! I think I'll get it from the us. Don't want to wait 4 weeks. Thanks as always Bob, I tried to thank you officially but my level 4 status has dropped off (for the second time). Should have just become a lifer. It's such a great forum...
 
That's exactly what I broke...doesn't look as bad as yours! I think I'll get it from the us. Don't want to wait 4 weeks. Thanks as always Bob, I tried to thank you officially but my level 4 status has dropped off (for the second time). Should have just become a lifer. It's such a great forum...
Why not speak to Yoda, NumbThumbs or Studgun? They've just fitted their Bullbars so won't be needing theirs!

Kev.
 
Why not speak to Yoda, NumbThumbs or Studgun? They've just fitted their Bullbars so won't be needing theirs!

Kev.
Mine's still installed under the bash plate. Not sure what purpose it serves, but it's there. If it doesn't need to be then I guess it can come out when I have my parking sensors fixed and someone else can have it.

I also have my two recovery hooks for MY12+ models if anyone's interested. They won't be free though. Cost me about $700.


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Mine's still installed under the bash plate. Not sure what purpose it serves, but it's there. If it doesn't need to be then I guess it can come out when I have my parking sensors fixed and someone else can have it.

I also have my two recovery hooks for MY12+ models if anyone's interested. They won't be free though. Cost me about $700.


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In the OEM setup, it ducts the air from the lower grill to the radiators. I don't know if it serves any purpose behind a bull-bar. I guess it depends on how the venting through the bull-bar is set up.
 
Did the same thing second time on sand. The plastic thing behind the air dam is the Air Inlet Baffle (Mopar #5165706AA). They are as brittle as. I bought a new one from the States from here OEM Part Number 5165706AA from Jeep - rtpartsco, $63.14USD + freight. I don't know what they cost locally.
This is great I have been looking for that part. I hit a deer a few weeks back any only that piece was damaged. Thanks.
 
Any progress here? I damaged my front at Fraser this week.... Annoying because I'd been so careful all along but got distracted by an oncoming car and hit a hidden bump and bottomed the front end. Was in ORH1 at the time. Brett how did you go wit the insurance? My air dam is not damaged it's the plastic behind it that the air dam attaches to.
Hey Mendo - yeah that plastic piece behind the air dam is still intact on mine, but the central plastic piece that bmackin is making a replacement for split in half. And the ACC sensor was knocked from it's brackets. Jeep quoted $6k to fix - what a joke. I haven't bothered with an insurance claim yet as others on this forum say they have just realigned the sensor in the bracket and all is fine - but i haven't found the time to remove the air dam and try it yet (I'm a little worried that removing the air dam will be a real PITA job)...
 
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Did the same thing second time on sand. The plastic thing behind the air dam is the Air Inlet Baffle (Mopar #5165706AA). They are as brittle as. I bought a new one from the States from here OEM Part Number 5165706AA from Jeep - rtpartsco, $63.14USD + freight. I don't know what they cost locally.
Are these the rivets that hold it in place (underneath)?

1/4 Nylon Blind Rivets 5/32-13/32 Grip

Mine are missing and the dealer obviously thought it was OK to just cable tie it up. No mention of it though.

I may have to get a new air inlet baffle too, it has a few cracks in it but still intact at this point.

Thanks!
 
Are these the rivets that hold it in place (underneath)?

1/4 Nylon Blind Rivets 5/32-13/32 Grip

Mine are missing and the dealer obviously thought it was OK to just cable tie it up. No mention of it though.

I may have to get a new air inlet baffle too, it has a few cracks in it but still intact at this point.

Thanks!
Typical dealer!

These are the ones I have: Push Type Retainer GM Ford Chrysler . They are 8mm push type. No need for a rivet gun, just slide them in then push with the thumb to set them. You will need four. Get a box, only $4.79US + freight for 25, peanuts, and they are good for elsewhere. While you are at it, you might want to get a box of these Jeep Bumper Retainers 68033794-AA .

What you have shown are ~4mm plastic rivets. Too small for this but still good for plastic trim elswhere such as around the wheel arches. Unfortunately they require a rivet gun to install. A pop-rivet gun can't be used because of the thick shank of the plastic rivet. I have one of the Y shaped guns. they are good and cheap but need more room. If you can afford it, I would recommend the right-angled ones for getting into tight spaces like between the wheel and wheel arch.
 
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