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Discussion Starter #1,161
Still working away but not doing anything picture worthy right now with sorting wiring etc.
On other thoughts, my wife and I saw Tank green, as first offered on the 2015 Willys Edition of the JK, in the flesh for the first time and really think it could suit the utilitarian theme I have always been going for. Gives a bit of heritage flavour as well. I would run it with black painted guards to break up the colour a bit and keep the 30-40's look as well.


Muck like it is above with the black flares. Maybe could even do the grille black too? Or just the centre section like it was stock?

I have been told a lot to leave it unpainted to show the metal work but not very practical though as even a clear will not seal it properly. But thought it might be a good idea to now complete it and get my engineer's approval and road registered before paint. Then for the summer at least, run it without paint to make sure everything is perfect before stripping it down to be painted.

The other recent colour was a burgundy and black, but might be too classy a colour for the Truck my wife feels and think she could be right.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,162

This gives you an idea how a Willys Truck looks like with the guards painted black.


I do like though the burgundy and black like this Chevy Fleetmaster which is of the similar era. Maybe not too classy after all!


Maybe a modern take of this 1952 Willys Wagon colour called Smoked Ruby. I do like this as is a true burgundy which is red mixed with purple rather than maroon which is red mixed with brown.


This Holden bodied 1936 Willys Sedan shows how a modern colour with black guards would look.


When I saw a Mustang with this colour drive past, I just loved it! Called Royal Crimson and was a 2018 only colour.

Now I am at an impasse!
 

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Discussion Starter #1,163

Wanted to see what the wheels and tyres looked like with the bonnet back on.


Think the proportions are looking alright. Wouldn't mind some SRT coils though to drop it an inch.


Engine loom was left on so starting with the chassis wiring.


Would have been easier if I could place everything where it was on the donor but the suspension towers are 7" further forward and the engine bay tapers to the grille also. These are the mounting brackets I made for the two fuse boxes to clip into.


Horn is from a WWII Chevy Bitz Truck. Very loud as running at 12 volts instead of 6 volt. Can see I have made a start on the intake ducting which is all 90mm/3.5".


Been waiting for the battery to come on special and saved $116! DIN75LH MF with 910 CCA, 180RC and 90AH.


Plenty of terminal clearance to the underside of the floor. Terminals are recessed too. The clamping system works really well and it is very solid.


Had a lot of trouble finding a OEM washer and big enough radiator recovery bottles. These came from a V8 Ford Explorer and were one unit. I bought two so I could separate them and mount off the joining webs as didn't fit otherwise. I noticed that OEM always placed the radiator recovery bottle near the height of the radiator cap, so did the same.


I would like to introduce my new garage buddy who was exploring the workshop for the first time. We called her Noski which mean 'socks' in Russian which I thought was fitting. Our last cat recently passed at 15+ years old and was also a rescue cat.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,164

Grille is out so I can modify it for the new headlight buckets. Fortunately everything else can stay where it is and not have to come out as well, so it is a quick job.


The new steel headlight buckets from NARVA, Steel Headlamp Bucket Closed Back - 7” (178mm), have a smaller mounting flange than the Willys Truck ones. Rather than cutting out a ring and welding it, I welded a disc in as the extra metal helps with the distortion control. These were welded in without stopping as you can tell by the HAZ.


Welding the disc in also allows any change of position if needed. In this case the factory headlight holes are out by 3mm-1/8" from one side to the other. So I moved the centre point over before scribing the new hole and cutting it out with a jigsaw. I had already planished the welds to make everything flat again.


Once the holes were cut and mounting holes etc drilled, final working of the area was done to make it all flat.


Fitted the indicators back in so they could be wired along with the headlights which I am converting to H4 plugs instead of the separate high and low beam sockets that the donor had.


We finally have 'eyes'! I wanted better than halogen so used these LED headlights which fit the old/new theme. Didn't want the bug eyed look of other LED headlights. These are popular on Kenworth Trucks here and were an OEM fitment on the last of the series of Land Rover Defenders.


Top half gives a little blackout look to them as well. You can also see why I chose the spacing of the extra bead I added after widening the grille. The space each side of the bead next to the headlight is the same.


These headlights offer a parking, DRL plus low and high beam. 7 They also do a version that has no low beam, so check your part numbers. These are fully ADR approved so I will have no problem getting them certified. They are for RHD so dip to the left instead of the right like for the left hand drive market. Made by GiantLight who make LHD versions for other manufacturers as well like Nolden. New 7" Headlamp with DRL/PO Also without the parkers and DRL. 7” Bi-LED High Low beam Lamp Module
 

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Discussion Starter #1,165

I was shown this one after my last post about the royal crimson and black combination on an old truck.
Looks pretty good to me!
My fear with the Jeep olive is that it will lose too much of the 40's look and will just come across as a newer Jeep with a front sheet metal change.
 

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I was shown this one after my last post about the royal crimson and black combination on an old truck.
Looks pretty good to me!
My fear with the Jeep olive is that it will lose too much of the 40's look and will just come across as a newer Jeep with a front sheet metal change.
I don't know what I like better the cat or the dog......Hands down I think the Royal Crimson and Black old truck take the prize.Beautiful Old Truck.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,167
I don't know what I like better the cat or the dog......Hands down I think the Royal Crimson and Black old truck take the prize.Beautiful Old Truck.
Awesome. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #1,170 (Edited)

I have wired in the battery in its new location. I used 50mm2 or 0 B&S sized cable so there would be no voltage drop. Added an extra negative cable to the frame as well. I have been using plated thread inserts, rivnuts or nutserts, for my negative cable frame and body connections as can easily clean the face of them after painting to give a good contact.


In the engine bay I attached two remote battery studs to the side of the fuse box. The original factory cables could be fastened to them without alteration.


Some CAD work being done as I come up for an idea for a support for the air intake ducting.


The tabs facing into the radius will be bent outwards to support the duct. I will also shorten the bracket by the height of the rubber isolators to help with difference in movement between the engine and the suspension tower.


To bend the tabs over I just did it in a vice and hammered with the punch only in the centre. This gave the radius I was after to the tabs.


I used thread inserts as could not get to the backside on one of them to push a bolt through.


Ducting now finished and the last of the plumbing now done.


I am using the largest K&N dryflow oil-free media filter, RU-3105HBK, that I could fit in. RU-3105HBK K&N Universal Clamp-On Air Filter Some states here do not allow an oiled filter for fear of engine fire after an intake backfire unless they are enclosed. Also the oil can affect engine sensors.
The hose clamps around the tabs on the support bracket holding everything in place while clamping the intake hose to the aluminium coupler inside at the same time.
 

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Fuel. Check
Air. Check
Spark. Check

Ccccccccontact. ?

Won’t be long before a start up. ??? Awesome work. Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter #1,173

Always looking at things outside of the automotive area to see if they can be utilised. What I am making here is a simple bonnet prop. The components are all 316 stainless steel normally used for bimini tops on boats.


I drilled and tapped some 5mm-3/16" steel and welded it to the flange of the bonnet support to hold the plastic storage clip.


I wanted it to sit up as high as possible towards the bonnet skin to give me the clearance over the suspension tower support.


The hinge is attached to another 5mm-3/16" plate that was welded inside the front support. The whole support could then be finally welded in place after it was all painted underneath.


The stainless tubing is 22mm-7/8"x1.6mm-16g to suit the bimini ends. There are other sizes as well. They were just expoxied into place.


The support is just swung to the side and forward and the end sits between two gussets that reinforce the top of the fan surround. The bonnet is kept nice and high to give plenty of working space on the sides.


Clips nicely out of the way for storage. I looked at fitting, and even tried, two gas struts instead. But more bonnet supports would have to be added and thought to just use the KISS principle instead. This also allows me to flip the bonnet right back against the front of the cab should I need clear access from the side near the firewall.


I had also planned to use this style of bimini hinge for the grille supports at each end. Thought it would look rather neat. But because I added the box tubing as part of the front guard strengthening, the grille is already fully supported and has no flexing like normal.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,174 (Edited)
Having suffered 'car-owner' virus the last 10 years of this build, business as usual with self quarantine isolation in the workshop. ;)


For the lower bonnet prop mount I made a retainer from some scrap stainless and a stainless screw with some of the thread removed.


The bends ensure that the pin is exactly 90* to the prop end fitting. The pin was threaded into a tapped hole in the bracket.


Pin goes through the existing fitting hole and stops the bonnet ever being blown back into the cab with a big gust of wind.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,175

Working on the front stone tray or valance that goes between the grille and tucks under the bumper. The two outer creases normally line up with the outer edges of the centre part of the grille, but because I added the extra two slots, it needs to be widened. Same for the flat part on each side as well.


Fortunately I was given a spare valance by a good friend Christos that I can use for parts.


The spare is the top one after I stripped over a 1/4" of filler over the whole panel. They had tried to flatten the centre rib and creases to make it smooth.


Flattening the centre rib caused the angled part to change so it no longer matched the grille and also for it to bow. Basically they stretched out a tuck shrink. I have started to hammer it back in using a rounded chisel.


Worked the sides back in using another rounded chisel that matched the curvature.


The back one is the spare now with the centre rib back in place. I soaked it in a tub of double strength vinegar for a few days to get rid of the rust. I don't have my citric acid bath setup anymore.


It now matches the width of the centre part of the grille but I don't like how the factory gap is bigger along the flat part.


Made some adjustments and it is much better now.


I have brought material up from the back flange to extend its length. I did this over a stake with a rounded top that fitted up inside the radius. I kept the valance sitting above the stake the amount I wanted it to extend by. Then hammered across the top of the valance from the back towards the front widening the top of the radius.


Once that was done, I needed to get the radius back to the same size again. I kept the stake in the back of the radius and then hammered out the excess down the front face of the valance. This is hard to explain!


Now the gap is the same as well as the radius along the top. It will sit a bit further out than this as the valance will be frame mounted and not touching the rubber body mounted grille.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,176

I need to have somewhere to put some recovery hooks and thought using the mounting bolt dimples could work once modified.


To get the hooks to sit completely level I had a steel block clamped underneath right on the edge of where I wanted the crease to form. Then hammered down with the brick bolster.


Directly under the tray will be a heavy bracket going back to the frame and also for mounting the bumper too.


Next I finished off making the tray wider to match the grille. Normally I would have added a single wider piece at the V to flat transition, but knew it would have moved the place I wanted the tow hooks to line up with the bracket. So added a strip on the outside of the dimple area. This was welded with the MIG in one pass but manually pulsing the trigger, never allowing the orange colour to disappear from the weld before adding more.


I always check the penetration on the back to see if any spots need to be added to before any grinding has taken place. This way you have more weld thickness on the front side to protect against a blowout. Can see where it was colder at the start of the weld and I had to add some. If you do the slow spaced tack technique you are facing this along the whole weld. I never have my welds crack when planishing as I believe this technique largely removes the problem of the MIG where rapid heating from cold causes brittleness.


For the first time I thought I would try the automatic pulse, or spot timer, on my MIG to see how that would compare. I just held the trigger and had the timer set to 0.5 second intervals. Moved forward as the current ramped down and then held still when it ramped back up.


Full penetration but way too much weld even though it was the identical setting to the last weld where I did it manually. Good news that it didn't blow through anywhere though. I will try a lower setting next time. Steel is 1.2mm or 18 gauge.


Width now correct across the grille.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,177

Because the tray is now wider, the curve doesn't match the stock width bumper, especially as the bumper curve tightens towards the ends. I have notched out the flange back to the new bend line.


I start bending the flange flat using the mallet and then a panel hammer.


I also hammer from the back hitting directly on the old bend line to force the ridge on the opposite side up into the crease.


Using nothing more than an old wood splitter head I turned into a stake, I slowly bend the flange along the new line. Even though I cannot see where it is once I move away from the edge, I watch the reflection which shows exactly where it is bending. Doing light taps to start with means it is easy to adjust where it is bending.


Even bending over a wide straight edge, I can still produce a shallow curve.


Previous tension in the panel and the tighter curve towards the end, has made it bend. Some of this will straighten once I cut the excess material away using a cutoff wheel due to its heat shrinking it.


Once I cut the flange to an even width again, I used a chaser to hammer along the bend line to crisp up the fold. This also causes some stretching to further straighten the flange. Using a shrinker on the edge rather than the fold line will also straighten it. For straightening this flange, stretching at the fold does the same thing as shrinking along the edge.


Overall the tray is narrower than stock by 20mm-3/4" to compensate for the extra depth of the grille and width of the tray.


Mockup with the hooks in place in front of the grille.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,179

Now to make some brackets to support the tray, recovery hooks and bumper. I bought some 100x50mm-4"x2" C channel. I prefer C channel over U channel as the flanges are parallel rather than tapered. I couldn't have any bolts through it without making a levelling wedge first with U channel.


I could not buy angle in the size I wanted and got the bonus of thicker flanges too. The very ends have been tapered to 6* to match the bumper flange angles as they will be bolted through them. I left the flange as long as I could to give lateral support from any off centre pulling on the hooks.


Back in 2012, before boxing the chassis, I had welded some 10mm-3/8" thick bar in place ready to accept drilling and tapping of the bumper brackets! There is a total of three M12 10.9 bolts holding each bracket onto the chassis.


As I have made the tray level so the hooks are not on a downward 6* angle, I needed to bend down the tray edge where it tucks under the bumper flange. After shrinking the tray flanges at each end, I hammered with the bolster along the line with the tray upside down and over the rubber mat.


All bolted in place for the first time.


Technically the bumper is 40mm-1.5" further forward than stock as that is how much I moved the grille forward. But I think it looks just right at that distance.


Bumper is just clamped in place at the moment and still have to drill and bolt it on.
 
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