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Discussion Starter #1,181

I don't think I like the way it is looking! The grille slots maybe too tall and Kenworth Truck like? Looks a little vacant or naked?


Even one doesn't help even once extended to across all slots like stock.


Three is what came on my 58 donor Willys. Obviously the top bar sits a bit higher than this.


Five is what the 52 grille that makes up part of the panels had. Maybe too busy?


Maybe I should be different and do four which none of the models had? It is Lisa's favorite and don't mind it myself. All bars would be made to cover all the grille slots and the spacing would end up slightly wider once the top is in its correct position. Thoughts?

Or I am now thinking of cutting up the grille and reducing the height of the slots back to stock height and adding the 50mm-2" instead below the slots so it matches the distance between the slots and the top of the grille!
 

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Looking good 🤗
 

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Discussion Starter #1,183

Matt, from a metal shaping forum that my build is also on, threw up some quick colour options to see how the grille looks then. Does show that the darker the colour, charcoal, the less of a statement the grille slots have.
 

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The unpainted one looks the best! Just my thoughts.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,186
I have been holding off posting the finished grille until the mesh I ordered a few weeks ago arrives and I can fit it all back together.

One of the the things I am looking at in the meantime it to cover up the ugly coils and harness.


5 years ago I bought a pair of original early HEMI covers as thought they would make cool coil covers. Would break the 2008 OEM theme I have been doing under the bonnet now though, except for the WWII horn. Would it clash too much or could the mix work? It would cover all the existing valve covers as well as the coil and injector wiring as I moved all that already for these.


If I wanted to keep the OEM theme going I could fit some covers like these. Might try and build them though as they are rather pricey.

So old or new?
 

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@Gojeep
Just my opinion. I like chrome. Take the original early HEMI covers, have them rechromed, then polish them until you can use them as mirror to shave with. If you put the old valve covers in now they will make all of your hard work be for nothing. The new ones look good too, but I'm old and love lots of chrome.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,189

5 Years ago I bought these old HEMI valve covers that were going cheap due to the damage to one of them. Looks like some one pieced it with an axe!


If you look under the ruler were the split is, you can see the extent of the damage.


Also the damage along the edge has pulled the top down.


Just showing the repairs I did 5 years ago. I first roughed it out over a piece of conveyor belt so not to stretch it further. Just using a rounded brickies bolster.


The split area is already looking much better.


I used a door skinning hammer to further improve this area. The angled head allowed me to hit still with a full swing.


I also did some fine work over the edge of the railroad track.


As well as my home made T stake.


Nice and straight again along this edge where the split is.


Top has come up well too and no grinding or sanding has been done yet, just wire wheeled. The split will be welded up and it is done.
 

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Thank you for replying. I will clean them up before fitting them but not sure if I would go chrome? Just mocking everything up at this stage.
I would really think that they would really stand out if you polished them up. But then again if you painted them Black like the 345 Hemi Valve covers they would stand out too!
 

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Discussion Starter #1,193
Biting the bullet and try fitting the HEMI covers.


When I thought of using the old HEMI covers to cover the coils in 2015, I had never seen anyone do it before, so had no idea if it could be done. Try as I may I could not find any dimensions of the valve covers to see if possible or not. So I'm putting up mine now in case there is ever anyone else looking to use these covers for something in the future. They are 522mm-20.55" long outside of the flanges.


235mm-9.25" wide on the outside. Flanges are 13mm-1/2" wide each side.


To see if they would fit I made up a profile piece from some scrap stainless steel.


They fit best when positioned like this along the bottom and can go over the protruding studs.


At the top I hope to use the bolts that hold the fuel rail in place.


Can see how they will cover the coil packs, harness and the injectors as well just nicely.


I had to do some trimming at the back corner of the cover as the steering column boot was in the way. LHD's would have it easier as not only is the head further away on the other side from the firewall, but the 25mm-1" factory engine offset gives more room as well! The centre stud has plenty of room to fit a nut but the other two are too tight if left like this.


Some simple tags welded to the cover flange to sit under the fuel rail bolts should solve the fixing at the top.


With the engine offset to this side it is too tight under the one of the tower brace legs. Will have to add a scallop for that on this side only and the two new lower nut positions as well on both. One of the air-conditioning pipes next to the brake booster clears, but not by enough to leave as is so will move it further back.


I think it looks really good though and even better once toned down with some original black wrinkle paint these had.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,194

I started making clearance between the cover and the tower brace. Using a large heavy bumping hammer, like a oversized fender hammer, to invert the ridge downwards. This hammer is also referred to as a 'Donkey's Dick", for obvious reasons.


I'm using a small beater bag hooked over a T stake. Refining was done with the Fairmount wide dome dressing hammer. FAIRMOUNT® Wide Dome Dressing Hammer Wood Handle


Clearance is a lot better than it looks in this picture.


I thought I would match the pressings for the extra two mounting holes. I wanted to see how far I could get. Can see it is pulling the flange in so needs more stretching still, but worried it would get too thin.


I cut and added some material in the end. In the factory pressing dies, the material would have been pulled from the top downwards. So I went with my original plan to cut some slots at the start.


Quickly formed it over one of my old blacksmith stakes using the rounded hammer in the background I bought from Peter Tommasini. Can see that it needs about 6mm-1/4" strip added.


A bit more dressing work and it will be done.


With the extra bolt hole pressings it looks more like the 426 HEMI covers from the 60's rather than the 50's ones with the script. I wonder if the hole spacing also matches on the later ones?


I could have also done with the later covers corner clearance as well for my steering shaft boot. It was also cut to clear the top of the rear coil pack as can't lift high enough on this side due to the AC lines above it. I want the covers easy to fit and remove without disconnecting anything.


The factory half covers also have no end on them. I folded the edge over to remove the sharp edge. I have also welded on the tabs that hold the top of the cover on with the fuel rail screws.


The end of the mounting studs need their thread chased as the nut that is on there is fused to it. The studs are also captive so can't just take them out without removing the whole covers, coils and spark plugs! So I cut the handles off an old die wrench and welded it to a pipe socket. This way I could have different length pipes depending on what clearance I needed.


The thread is 6mm with a 1mm pitch. I just ran the die on the three bottom ones that I was using to mount the covers on.


You cannot see once mounted the end cutouts even when looking directly from above. One side done and onto, hopefully, the easier side.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,197

Checking clearance to the oil filler neck on the other side. Looks like just bending the flange out of the way should do it.


Plenty of clearance to the tower brace on this side and will just have to bend the dipstock tube out a bit.


I tried just pressing the stock hole pressings without flattening it first, and it didn't work as the sides were too vertical. So I carefully hammered them flat first before using the dimple die.


Looks more fitting dimple died as ties in with the other parts I have done in the engine bay.


On this side I have to move the centre pressing as well. This is because that pressing is 12mm-1/2" off centre, which worked perfectly on the other side, but on this side it is in the wrong direction. I wont be cutting a vertical slot on that one as the extra material is already there, just in the wrong place.


Can see how I have moved the extra material along like a wave to where I want it.


All three now done and a lot quicker than the first try.


This side the only cutouts were for the oil filler neck and to clear the very back of the valve cover. The covers are slightly shorter than the Gen 3 Hemi, but having them sitting level at the front gives much needed room at the firewall end for the harness to run.


You have to admit that it looks a lot tidier on the left.


Both sides covered makes the engine look more 'muscular'.


Eye level shot.


I also put nuts and bolts into the unused original mounting holes. I have some stainless dome, or acorn nuts on the way for all the cover bolts.


Oil filler looks like it was made for these covers.


Tower brace back on again.


I do have this early 1900's Overland running board pressing that I could put over the three dimple died holes? Willys bought Overland in 1908 and it became Willys-Overland in 1912. From 1912 to 1918 it was the second biggest car producing company in the USA, only second to Ford! Overland script or leave the dimple die holes?


Quality control inspector doing her job.
 

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Would the Overland fit the tailgate? (The dimples match the rockers 👍) Can’t remember what was on it
 

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Would the Overland fit the tailgate? (The dimples match the rockers 👍) Can’t remember what was on it
I have a rare and much sort after 1948 Tailgate with the WO, Willys Overland, stamp in the middle.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,200

I got a lot of comments about what I was going to do with the original spark plug holes in the covers, even after I turned them into dimple dies. I had originally planned to run the wire covers that came with them.


But they didn't fit on the other side under the brace or the brake booster. Also I don't like how tall they are anyway when looking end on.


Thought about it and decided I could, with some work, overcome the main problem with the brace. I carefully, with heat and a press, reduced the arc of the brace back leg so it came out wider. Then welded it back on its mounting plate further back. It also meant I didn't need that clearance scallop anymore, so popped it back out for a much cleaner look.


To solve the too tall look when viewed end on, and fix the clearance problems still left, I thought I would shorten their height. I started by cutting off the flanges.


Then tipped a new flange higher up. I had to use a smaller lower die just to fit the covers over to start the bend.


I cut the angled end off where the wires normally exit and folded a 90* bend instead. Still leaving the end open so any heat that builds up can escape. There won't be much as the cover sits up about 50mm-2" along the intake side.


I treated the parts with some phosphoric acid which I will go into a bit more soon.


Now it looks just as good end on and solves all my clearance issues.


I had already cut off the original threaded standoffs, so welded on some stainless nuts instead. Went up a size so I could use these stainless countersunk screws I had which fitted nice and flush.


Does look more finished now.
 
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