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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
trying to change my driver side front cv axle but cant get it out of the gearbox to save my life! anyone have experience and or any tricks/tips i can try???? i was thinkin about calling the dealership to see if they could give any advice lol
 

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You have to rotate it very gradually and pull. There is one position or tooth to where it will come out. Mine were a bitch, I ended up just pulling really hard and it finally popped out. Don't be afraid, your going to have to put your back into it and find that one tooth where it will come out.
 

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I have had one that was a dirty DIRTY whore... I litterally had to take the axle apart (cut the boot and pull the guts out of the CV joint) I then used a bungie cord over the axle shaft INTO the diff. Then you can get a long punch, I used a long ladys foot pry bar but the pointy end so I have a flat hitting surface and a point that gets in there. The one that I did that was stuck this bad I actually had to remove the diff, mount in a vice, pull the cover off and use a tool that wedged in between the diff pin and the axle and smash it out that way. It was NOT pretty nor fun... hard to make money flat rate when it takes 3 hours and everything you got to get a stupid axle out of the diff.

To clarify, the reason you strap the bungie cord over the remaining portion of axle pulling IN is because the circlip needs a running start to jump out. If the axle has proven itself to be a difficult one, it will NOT come out unless it gets a running start.

Ultimately yours may not need all of this, you may just need another tool choice and trying prying/hammering from a different angle... Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
yea ive tried hammering and prying and wedging and the cv axle removal tool with slide hammer.... i guess im just gonna keep at it and hope it finally lets loose.
 

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Big pry bar, make sure you order an axle seal. You will damage it..
 

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Yea, a pain. The CV slide hammer method and other methods pulling from the axle end don't seem to work because of the play in the CV joints dissapating (sp?) the "oomph", force. Need to work near inner axle where it enters the tranny and ,as mentioned above, rotate it a bit and try repeatedly. I have placed two vicegrips (close together for added strength) on the axle shaft near the case so I can use them as a pivot for my pry bar.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
does it matter if the jeep in in neutral or park?
 

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Needs to be in Neutral to rotate the axles. Ideally, if you have QuadratracII, stick a pin in the Hi/Lo area and stick her in "free" fall.

Let me add this..if you get a couple vicegrips( snug) on the inner side of the axle and give them a sharp rap with a 3lb sledge after rotating axle maybe 120 degrees each time, I guarantee you will find the "sweet spot" where it pops. It helps to hold the distal end of the axle on a support/jack.
 

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Mine had to go to two dealerships to get replaced. The first one couldnt get it out and the second one took a few mechanics to remove it
 

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My situation may have been made easier by the fact I don't live in a winter/salt/corrosion zone.. If that is the case in yours (salt, et. al.) get some Kroil lubricant.. The stuff is stupid good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yea im in nebraska so there is salt lol... and i just went out and tried with the puller and rotating and got nothin... so my next question which might be dumb but just want opinions is can i drive it with just that "cup/spline" portion of the axle there to get it to a dealership? the axle pulled apart so the boot was cut and all that is there is the spline portion that goes into the diff with the cup that the balls and such go into.
 

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Sorry to hear it's such a pain..as I mentioned before, if you are applying the pulling force vector from the distal end of the axle, it will be dissapated by the CV joint . You need to get the "yank" force from right next to the medial end of the axle as I described already. To answer your question, if you have the axle distal nut/hub socked on, you are good to go even if the CV boots are split as far as the miles to the Dealership...probably wouldn't pick a rainy day to make the drive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
this part right here...

 

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yeah i took a big pry bar (36in) and went to town. it came out after 4 heavy pry's. Looks to me you're on the ground with jack stands. Does your slide hammer have a crank puller adapter?? That would work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
No the threads on the slide hammer are 5/8 x18
 

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Did you put a bungie cord over that to keep it pulled into the axle housing? I did not get the aforementioned one out using everything I could get my hands on at the dealer, AND having the diff on the work bench until I added the bungie cord and it came out the next try. Salt belt or cut this circlip is in the axle housing protected from the salt and regularly bathed in gear oil... I dont live in the salt belt and have fought low milage rust free WK axles.

Sent from my SCH-I500
 

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And no you should not drive to the dealer unless you want to burn the clutches in you transfer case up. Can you reassemble the axle? boot or not, you just bed to complete the path to ground at that wheel.

Sent from my SCH-I500
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
So i ended up putting it all back together and takin it to the dealership. I just called for an update and they are still fighting to get it out... its been about 8hrs since i dropped it off, i really hope they can get it.
 
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