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Discussion Starter #1
I’m looking to add a rear hitch to my 2017 Limited. I originally was going to get the Mopar version because of the low profile but decided I can get a hidden frame hitch that mounts under the bumper that doesn’t look too bad for short money and less install work. I’m considering either the Curt, Draw-tite, or Reese. all three manufacturers make them in the ”hidden“ profile and are all priced around $96-$110. Is one better than the other or all the same?
 

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I would only do OEM personally because of how well it integrates with the vehicle but any of the brand names you mention will likely work fine if the reduced departure angle isn't going to be a problem for your driving activities. Regardless, keep in mind that adding the hitch receiver now, OEM or third party, doesn't give you the same towing capacities that you would have with the Factory Tow option which is more than just the hitch receiver and electrical wiring; depending on trim level and engine choice, it has modifications/additions to suspension, cooling, electrical, etc., too.
 

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It depends on what your intended use for the hitch might be.
If you're just going to insert a bike rack, any receiver should work.
If you're planning to tow a couple of lightweight Jetskis, say less than 2,000# towed weight, the aftermarket parts would probably be fine.
If you're planning on pulling anything more than 3,500#, I think you're out of luck with any of the hitches. The tow rating for just about any Grand Cherokee is 3,500# without the full optional towing package. Sure you can add a hitch, but as Jim_in_PA said, the factory tow package is far more than just a hitch. There are additional fluid coolers, bigger brakes, self leveling rear shocks, the correct Class III receiver, wiring for trailer brakes (required in almost every state over either 2000 or 3000#), and your warranty to consider.

I've used Curt and Draw-Tite (same company these days I think) and Reese hitches in the past with zero problems. Also Hidden Hitch. But mainly to tow light boats and Jetskis with SUVs that didn't have a hitch. But I was always conscious of the limitations- light weights, and short distances. They are all exceedingly well made, and will all handle their rated 5,000# limits without issue. Just be cognizant of the vehicle limitations.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It depends on what your intended use for the hitch might be.
If you're just going to insert a bike rack, any receiver should work.
If you're planning to tow a couple of lightweight Jetskis, say less than 2,000# towed weight, the aftermarket parts would probably be fine.
If you're planning on pulling anything more than 3,500#, I think you're out of luck with any of the hitches. The tow rating for just about any Grand Cherokee is 3,500# without the full optional towing package. Sure you can add a hitch, but as Jim_in_PA said, the factory tow package is far more than just a hitch. There are additional fluid coolers, bigger brakes, self leveling rear shocks, the correct Class III receiver, wiring for trailer brakes (required in almost every state over either 2000 or 3000#), and your warranty to consider.

I've used Curt and Draw-Tite (same company these days I think) and Reese hitches in the past with zero problems. Also Hidden Hitch. But mainly to tow light boats and Jetskis with SUVs that didn't have a hitch. But I was always conscious of the limitations- light weights, and short distances. They are all exceedingly well made, and will all handle their rated 5,000# limits without issue. Just be cognizant of the vehicle limitations.
thank you for the advice.
I have no intention of towing anything heavy like a boat or another vehicle. I only want to use the hitch for basics stuff like, bike rack, cargo carrier, recovery point, and possibly a small lightweight trailer to tow small things like maybe 1 motorcycle or a washing machine, etc.
 

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You should be fine with any hitch then. I believe the Limited is wired to the back for lights, you'd just need a t-connection to tap into the system. There's a factory piece (I may actually have an extra one if I look deep into the boxes of parts I have) or they're available from many of the same manufacturers as the hitches. You'd just need the 4-Flat plug since you won't be using anything with trailer brakes. Should be an easy conversion for you.
 

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You should be fine with any hitch then. I believe the Limited is wired to the back for lights, you'd just need a t-connection to tap into the system. There's a factory piece (I may actually have an extra one if I look deep into the boxes of parts I have) or they're available from many of the same manufacturers as the hitches. You'd just need the 4-Flat plug since you won't be using anything with trailer brakes. Should be an easy conversion for you.
For that model year, the OEM harness to the back should be in place. There is no "tee" connection involved...the OP just needs the OEM 4/7 pin assembly which has a pigtail that plugs directly into the vehicle's connector behind the bumper and to have a dealer service department activate the wiring in the vehicle computer. There is generally a charge for that...typically about a hundred bucks.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
For that model year, the OEM harness to the back should be in place. There is no "tee" connection involved...the OP just needs the OEM 4/7 pin assembly which has a pigtail that plugs directly into the vehicle's connector behind the bumper and to have a dealer service department activate the wiring in the vehicle computer. There is generally a charge for that...typically about a hundred bucks.
Yes, this is correct. I looked under my back bumper and did see a large round factory connector that is zip tied to it. All I would need is the 4/7 block that attaches to it.

I don’t understand why that harness isn’t activated all ready. Seems like dealers just want to make an easy 100 bucks. I wish there was a way to flip it on just by going trough the uconnect menu.
 

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The harness isn't activated because the vehicle wasn't sold with the towing option...it was just pre-wired. That wasn't a dealer decision, it was a Jeep decision. Dealers charge for the labor to add the sales codes to the computer just like any other service they are requested to do. Current model year vehicles in the Laredo and I now believe Limited trims do not even come with the wiring harness anymore if Factory Towing isn't purchased.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The harness isn't activated because the vehicle wasn't sold with the towing option...it was just pre-wired. That wasn't a dealer decision, it was a Jeep decision. Dealers charge for the labor to add the sales codes to the computer just like any other service they are requested to do. Current model year vehicles in the Laredo and I now believe Limited trims do not even come with the wiring harness anymore if Factory Towing isn't purchased.
If I hook up the combo 4/7 plug to my harness is the 4 pin section on and the 7 pin section off? Or are both of them off and need to be turned on by the dealer?
 

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If I hook up the combo 4/7 plug to my harness is the 4 pin section on and the 7 pin section off? Or are both of them off and need to be turned on by the dealer?
Both are off. The wiring is not functional until enabled in the vehicle computer by the dealer turning on the sales code for towing.
 

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There are additional fluid coolers, bigger brakes, self leveling rear shocks, the correct Class III receiver, wiring for trailer brakes (required in almost every state over either 2000 or 3000#), and your warranty to consider.
Why Class III? Make sure it's Class IV, unless you know for certain you won't need the extra towing capacity.
 

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Why Class III? Make sure it's Class IV, unless you know for certain you won't need the extra towing capacity.
If it's a third party hitch receiver, Class III is fine since the tow rating will be at or less than the 5K limit for a Class III hitch receiver because of not having the Factory Tow option.
 
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