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For those of you looking to swap the sub out ( keep the stealthbox ) for something better. The internal volume is .625 cu/ft. That gives you allot options if you're interested in upgrading the subwoofer. Here is a few to list

Here is a decent list of inexpensive subs that will outperform the JL -
TC Sounds Epic 10
Dayton Audio Ultimax
Dayton Audio RSS line, both the HF and HO series
HiVi SP10
Peerless XXLS 10
ScanSpeak Discovery 10
SEAS L26ROY 10

Greetings,

Between partsexpress.com & madisound.com, you can find these subs.

An excellent replacement to look at is the TC Sounds Epic 10. This speaker gives you SPL punch in a SQ style. You might have to tune it a little with some fiber in the box or in theory, you can put a smaller vent hole.

TC Sounds Epic 10" DVC Subwoofer 293-656

Between ScanSpeak and SEAS, you will get another great SQ woofer.

Also, old reliable Eminence (pro world comes to auto world) will give any speaker a run for their money. For example in a 10" fit:

Eminence Eminator 2510 10" High Power Car Subwoofer 4 Ohm 290-704

The JL Audio Stealthbox was design to give you Sound Quality performance with a taste of SPL in their's. Again, bass is a matter of personal taste.



Best for now.:)
 

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TC Sounds use to build subs for some of the big names out there...not sure if they still do.
Greetings,

I believe they still due for the SPL (mega bass) folks. They might to even license their technology as well. The 8" is a great SQ sub.

Best for now.:)
 

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Do you think that all replacement subs require an aftermarket amplifier, or is there a 2ohm DVC replacement that could tighten the bass and still be driven by what we are assuming (ass-u-me) is about 200W from the factory amp?

I'm really trying hard to just do replacements, and so far with the doors and dash I'm really happy with the results. I would like a bass hit that sounds more like a 'thud' rather that a 'thummm' that I seem to hear from the factory sub, if you know what I mean. Nothing mirror rattling, just tighter hits
Greetings,

IMO and as I have previously stated in the forum, I am not great fan of the factory sub. Plastic is not a great material to use for the low frequency and tune it correctly. The classic wood products and fiberglass will give you better sound characteristics as long it is built to the parameters of the the speaker.

In any event, you could follow others who suggested to stiffen. In addition, you should coat the inside of the sub and use some fiberfill. With regards, to factory power, many of us feel the sub output is around 200 watt design using the 8" sub. I never measured it because I am replacing the factory sub. An 8" sub does not fit my personal requirements get down into the low bass.

As far back as I can remember, in pro audio, home audio and here in car audio, there has been many different schools of thought regarding bass designs.



Best for now.:)
 

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I've had all sorts of expensive and inexpensive subs and have found that enclosure location and construction are far more important than brand names and paper specs.

One of THE best SQ sub systems I've had was in a 1997 Explorer with a Stealthbox and a 10W1.

Tony
Greetings,

I have been in the sound business in many different areas including car audio for way over 30 years now. Yes, you are correct :thumbsup: that the key is the enclosure location and construction for low frequency response. Thus, the one manufacture's spec we always look at first is the Resonant or Resonance Frequency (Fs). This is critical for proper tuning. Speaker building is truly an art. Many principles applied to pro and home audio applies car audio as well.

Within this forum, I have stated in the past, JL Audio stealth box is a well constructed and tuned subwoofer for the Grand Cherokee. Changing the driver is just a matter of personal opinion by others. A few posts back, one of the drivers I recommended, TC Sounds, I stated that you will have to play with stealthbox to get the sound tuned. I should have also stated that when changing drivers such as the other recommended ones, it can be hit or miss in terms of tuning the inside of the box with acoustic material in order to achieve the desired sound. So, sometimes changing out a driver and not matching it to the characteristics of the enclosure can be worse.

The JL Audio bass drivers are consider one of the top car drivers on the market. When looking at he price of the JL 10w3 which is in the stealthbox is not that different from the others. When you add up the cost of the driver, the fiberglass enclosure and the exposed finish, for a pre-cast box it is a good value.

The whole concept of the stealthbox is to give you an SQ system and yes SPL is a totally different story.

Best for now.:)
 
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