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I can tell you right now switching to Wildpeaks on my Trailhawk is a world of difference, I went with 265/65/18 as well. I've been in snow/slush/mud up to the front bumper and it pushes right through. As I'm typing this I've watched 6-8in of snow come down in the PNW and driving my JGC with Wildpeaks is probably the most controlled vehicle I've ever driven in inclimate weather (and I've had many). The factory tires are borderline worthless for a vehicle of this caliber.
How are they for road noise? On my 14 WK2 I switched to Cooper AT's and they looked great and did well off road but after about 25k they got really really noisy, even though I rotated them every 5-6k. I want to go to a more aggressive tire when I replace the oem's on my '19 but I'm looking for an AT with good off-road and snow performance without being crazy noisy on pavement.
 

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How are they for road noise? On my 14 WK2 I switched to Cooper AT's and they looked great and did well off road but after about 25k they got really really noisy, even though I rotated them every 5-6k. I want to go to a more aggressive tire when I replace the oem's on my '19 but I'm looking for an AT with good off-road and snow performance without being crazy noisy on pavement.
No difference in road noise with the Wildpeak. I agree with everyone else about traction in the snow and ice, Wildpeak’s are 100% better than OEM.
 

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How are they for road noise? On my 14 WK2 I switched to Cooper AT's and they looked great and did well off road but after about 25k they got really really noisy, even though I rotated them every 5-6k. I want to go to a more aggressive tire when I replace the oem's on my '19 but I'm looking for an AT with good off-road and snow performance without being crazy noisy on pavement.
Yes, minimal to no difference in road noise with the Wildpeaks. They are virtually silent going down the Hwy. For the price and performance I don't think there is a better tire. It's worth noting these are stock on all Rubicon's now so that tells you something as well.
 

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I recently installed Falken Wildpeak AT3/W’s in the OEM size of 265/60/18 on my ‘19 Altitude for winter use. They are definitely noisier than the OEM 265/50/20 Bridgestone Dueler HL 400’s but this is to be expected going from a highway tread to an aggressive off road tread. However, they are not excessively loud by any means and mostly only noticeable at lower speeds. So far I’ve been very impressed with their traction in the few light snows we’ve had. They are excellent in rain, you’d have to really try to get them to break loose.
 

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@jgcrp1 they are Mopar accessories I picked up on the eBay. They do a pretty good job but the cinders are already starting to chip up the very back of my rocker moldings.
 

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Congrats!
I got these on Amazon -> Security Chain Company SZ441 Super Z6 for my Trailhawk. I did not test them yet though.
 

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Anyone try the new Falken Wildpeak A/T Trail tires in the stock 265/50r20 size? Can’t find any reviews on a grand cherokee for that tire! Thanks
 

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Anyone try the new Falken Wildpeak A/T Trail tires in the stock 265/50r20 size? Can’t find any reviews on a grand cherokee for that tire! Thanks
If I'm not mistaken, there is a thread in the appropriate sub-forum up above...
 

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From what I gather from the numerous threads about tires here, since I have OEM tire size, you're limited to 32" overall tire diameter and 33" if you bang out seems in the wheel wells....

Spacers don't get you anything in regards to bigger diameter tires, they are hitting the sides of the wheel wells before they hit the frame rails on the inside.....

As well, people have reported problems with 1.5" spacers or more, I tend to think the quality of the spacer and crap surface of the hubs of the wheel and suspension hub, and suspension wear have a lot to do with it.... ...that is why some have no problem and others gets vibrations and shimmy.... ....going more than 2", either by different offsets on new wheels or using spacers, seems is asking for suspension vibration and shimmy's.... ....The WK2 is 4 wheel independent suspension, not dual live axle like Wranglers and earlier JGC's..... ....the scrub radius is more critical and you change the scrub radius with spacers or different offsets on wheels....

There are no alternative ring and pinion gears for the WK2, it has all new differentials just used on the WK2, so the only ones being made are the ones at the factory.... ...and later WK2's, like your's, they removed any access to changing speedometer ratios as well (it can be done, but the dealer can't do it, some of the expensive tuner devices can do it).... ...But, I haven't seen any posts from those with bigger diameter tires complaining about Final Drive Ratio killing power, the 8speed trans and torquey engines seem to be fine with 1-2" change in tire diameters....

Finally wheel diameter, for off-roading you don't want bigger diameter wheels, you more tire sidewall to get more traction on uneven surfaces for off-road performance.... ....so going to bigger diameter wheels will reduce off-road ability, not improve it..... ...Notice Wranglers all come with 17" wheels, you're TrailHawk comes with 18" wheels when most WK2's come with 20" wheels....

Some of the WK2's come with HD brakes that have larger diameter rotors, that move the caliper out further to fit over the rotor. HD brakes will not fit within 17" wheels, only the SD brakes can fit inside 17" wheels. If you have HD brakes, all later WK2's with the HEMI have them, the smallest wheel you can go is 18"....
Precisely why I was restricted in tyre choice with my 3.0 litre diesel 2010 Land Rover Discovery HSE (LR4 in the US?). 19" rims to fit over the humongous brake rotors. Cooper Zeons were the only after market available at the time, but a good tyre. Goodyear only had a highway tyre and a crazy noisy muddie.
I finally replaced the 9 y/o LR with a 2018 TrailHawk, having loved the look of, and craved for the JGC for about 25 years. At just over half the price, I think the GC is a nicer car except it's plastic where the LR was leather and real wood. I wanted the off road credentials of the TrailHawk and especially the 18" rims!!
I love my Jeep.
Correct me if I'm wrong but bigger diameter tyres are primarily to increase ground clearance for the diffs. Less of an issue with independent suspension.
I'm no expert, but I avoid things like spacers. I get anal about shimmy and alignment issues.
The highway ride is too nice to spoil...
 

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Smaller wheels for the same tire diameter increased sidewall height, good for off-roading (and incidentally, IMHO offer a little better ride on the road). A larger tire diameter mildly increases ground clearance for everything, not just the diffs (which are not the low point on the WK2 anyway)
 

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Smaller wheels for the same tire diameter increased sidewall height, good for off-roading (and incidentally, IMHO offer a little better ride on the road). A larger tire diameter mildly increases ground clearance for everything, not just the diffs (which are not the low point on the WK2 anyway)
Exactly!
The 19's had too shallow a sidewall. Every time I aired down, I ended up with sand in the bead for very little improvement in footprint.
 

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.....Correct me if I'm wrong but bigger diameter tyres are primarily to increase ground clearance for the diffs. Less of an issue with independent suspension.
I'm no expert, but I avoid things like spacers. I get anal about shimmy and alignment issues.
The highway ride is too nice to spoil...
Bigger diameter tires raises the vehicle, the entire vehicle, all of it the same amount, not just the diff pumpkins, so it improves the ground clearance of any vehicle, regardless of diff pumpkins or not..... ....this also improves the approach, break-over and departure angles....

But even more importantly, bigger diameter tires have:
More surface area for more traction
Lower tangent angles to ride over or even climb over obstacles

span farther over depressions and pots holes and less likely to get stuck



There are dozens of other factors that go into making the best off-road ability, which Jeep engineers a lot of those things into their Jeeps....
Weight Distribution
Ratios of Track vs WheelBase
Critical Angles on driveshaft universal joints


BUT perhaps the biggest of all, WHEEL TRAVEL, how far the wheels can go up and down

And this is where guys screw up, trying to fit bigger tires just for the look, doing things like lifting the vehicle with blocks or lifting a vehicle like the WK2 that has no kits that actually change wheel travel or even alternate bump stops, you end trading bigger tires for less wheel travel and reducing the off-road ability of the vehicle, but it looks cool.....
 

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And this is where guys screw up, trying to fit bigger tires just for the look, doing things like lifting the vehicle with blocks or lifting a vehicle like the WK2 that has no kits that actually change wheel travel or even alternate bump stops, you end trading bigger tires for less wheel travel and reducing the off-road ability of the vehicle, but it looks cool.....
Didn't you just argue against your own point made earlier? Bigger tires and lifting the vehicle addresses one of the two main weaknesses of the WK2 off-road: 1) severely compromised ground clearance and 2) poor articulation. There may be a trade-off between improved ground clearance and reduced articulation with a lift but nothing will help you when you hang up on the stock 8.6" low points; at least BLD can help a bit with the articulation problem.
 

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Agreed, but many of those issues ie. approach, departure, ramp over, general underbody clearances can more easily be improved with a lift. Pumpkins are less of an issue with independent suspension too.
Yes, tangent angles improve. It's horses for courses. The Quadra Lift certainly helps. I'm personally want not to get stuck whilst camping off road, but not into more brutal off roading. I want to maintain a nice ride on the blacktop. Otherwise I'd have bought a Wrangler :)
 

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Didn't you just argue against your own point made earlier? Bigger tires and lifting the vehicle addresses one of the two main weaknesses of the WK2 off-road: 1) severely compromised ground clearance and 2) poor articulation. There may be a trade-off between improved ground clearance and reduced articulation with a lift but nothing will help you when you hang up on the stock 8.6" low points; at least BLD can help a bit with the articulation problem.
[EDIT]
After re-reading your post I think I see what you're talking about, how I contradicted myself.....
If the wheels are to big to fit your vehicle, and with the WK2, you try to make them fit with a lift, is only going to reduce wheel travel. Either through modification, so the wheels don't go up far enough for the tires to rub (and there are no kits that do that), or by operation, self-limiting, you can't drive in situations that will make the wheels go up far enough they will rub, i.e. you can't off-road without damaging your tires or body with the rubbing...
i.e.upping to 32" tires, OK
upping to 33" tires, if you do the pinch weld mods, folding them over and cutting/reshaping the liner....
You go to 34", but put in a 2" lift so they won't rub, guess what, when you go to off-road, they will rub....

I have stated more than once lifting the WK2 to clear even bigger tires than it can fit at normal ride height is counter productive.
That doesn't mean bigger tires aren't beneficial off road.
But in the WK2 with the lift options available, if the tires don't fit at normal ride height, then they won't fit even if you lift till they don't rub, unless you don't make the tire go up to the point it will rub, and going over big bumps or off-road, will make them rub.....

See the difference, bigger tires are better off-road, but bigger tires than can fit aren't better anywhere, lifting the WK2 with what is available, only clears tires that are too big for smooth roads, you go off-road, then tires rub.

The WK2 doesn't have poor wheel travel, true not as good as the Wrangler and some Pick-Ups, but far more than many vehicles, including other SUV/Crossovers.... ....The Bilstein 5100's will get you more wheel travel.... ....keep in mind the biggest limiting factor in wheel travel is the critical angles for the CV/U joints of the driveshafts, so if you get 5100's and use the extra travel at the limits often, you may be wearing the CV joints....

I never said lifts reduce wheel travel, or articulation, I've said they don't get you additional wheel travel (unless they include a shock that can extend farther), so with the WK2 you just end up trading jounce for rebound... ...which is often the case for independent suspension, some other vehicles have very expensive kits to lift the vehicle and provide more wheel travel, because you have to change so much of the independent suspension and chassis to get more travel out of it.....

BLD? As in Brake Limited Differential? How does that help with the articulation? Unless you're talking lifting a wheel off the ground? I've argue the Brake Traction works great except for when a wheel leaves the deck. A locker does much better. But the Brake Traction is better than just an open differential..... ....a locker, if you a wheel leaves the deck, you continue to move smoothly, Brake Traction if a wheel leaves the deck, you're going to rock back and forth and have to stab the throttle and nudge your way over the obstacle.... ....of course an open differential, you're stuck if you lift a wheel off the deck...
 
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