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2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo X
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Hello,
I started having issues with my motor mounts 3 months ago. I replaced both of them, the passenger side with a duratec brand from autozone and the drivers side with an advanced auto brand mount. The reason I used different mounts is because each store only had one available. Well after a week I started hearing clunking when I would accelerate so I popped the hood and tested the mounts to see if they had any flex, passenger side had none in reverse but the driver side had a lot of movement. I took the drivers side mount back to advanced auto and had it replaced. After installing the new mount my grand Cherokee drove fine for about a week and it began clunking again. Would you guys recommend using a Mopar OEM mount?
 

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SRT8
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OEM mounts are expensive But doing Motor mounts is a PITA Job so imho it warrants the additional part expense.

Side note the OEM mounts only seem to last about 70-80k i've had 2 sets so far at 150k
 

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Grand Cherokee
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Hello,
...Would you guys recommend using a Mopar OEM mount?
I replaced mine at 80k miles (the drivers side was torn to shreds) with aftermarket Westar mounts. They lasted less than 50k miles (the passenger side collapsed and was bottomed out). This is less than what most folks are saying they get out of the OEM.

This time I ordered OEM, one was leaking oil out of the box, I sent it back and got a Crown Mount. Normally Crown products look exactly like OEM. In this case the crow looked darn close, but visually I had to say the OEM was higher quality. There is a plate pressed on to the end of the shaft of the mount, on the crown this plate popped right off the mount. This is bolted down, so it really won't effect anything. But if I did it again, I would have gotten a 2nd OEM instead of Crown. Although the Crown looked better than the other aftermarket and about the same price.

Has anyone considered using poly motor mounts instead of these shitty OEM oil filled ones that break every 60k miles?
I'm not aware of any being available for the WK2.
The way the OEM mount is constructed, it doesn't look practical to try to gut the OEM mount and put in generic poly bushings in it. Although you it does look like you could fabricate a plate to mount generic bushings on a shaft through the plate like an end link, if you can fabricate plates (i.e. easier said than done).

Considering the very present vibe with worn out mounts while the HEMI is in MDS mode, but is not present with good mounts, I would guess Poly Mounts would produce a lot of vibe in MDS, if not also in normal operation.

The V6 doesn't have MDS, so maybe it would work better with the V6. But the V6 also has VVL, not sure if that makes for a rougher idle, it might make for smoother idle, I just don't know, but something to figure out before you try poly motor mounts.
 

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Has anyone used engine support bar for mount removal and do you think it would be able to lift up a 3.6 engine ?
I have never used an engine support bar, you have to raise the front of the engine to change the mounts, I don't know if a support bar has the provisions to raise the engine. My impression was the cheap ones at least just kept the engine from dropping for trans swaps.

Since the intake manifolds are plastic, they have to be removed so you can bolt into metal to raise/support the engine from above. I know that is true for the V8, I might be wrong on the V6.
 

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there is a video on youtube fom E AUTO TECH that shows no intake removal but they removed the a/c compressor and jacked up the engine a little fom oil pan and they removed the engine backets also...the bar that chrysler uses is much longer than the 59" one thats sold online and they lift the engine with the adjusting screw
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.....The V6 doesn't have MDS, so maybe it would work better with the V6. But the V6 also has VVL, not sure if that makes for a rougher idle, it might make for smoother idle, I just don't know, but something to figure out before you try poly motor mounts....
I don't notice any more vibration whether i'm in ECO or Sport mode, idle or high acceleration with my V6.
My impression of the VVL and probably wrong is its probably enabled only under certain conditions like high power demands or could be enabled in Sport mode maybe depending on engine rpm and disabled at idle rpm. All guesses.
Other wise my thinking is if its enabled all the time in any mode or even at idle they just might as well have installed higher lift cams in the engine.
Its hard get any kind of detailed VVT or VVL info as FCA is tight lipped about these things.

Far as motor mounts, my vote is OEM.
My old Neon all of a sudden developed a minor vibration notably in reverse. Found the top right mount torn.
So I changed all 4 motor mounts with basement bargain after market mounts off ebay since i was getting ready to sell the thing.
All the mounts went in relatively easy except for that right center engine mount which was a Royal PITA.
Long story short, with the new mounts the vibration was much worse especially when in Drive at a stop.

After removing the old mounts one at a time and before installing the new mounts i did compare the original OEM mounts with the new ones.
Right out of the gate the rubber compounds were obviously different.

Like you said earlier, If i had to do it all over again i also would bite the bullet and spend the extra money for the OEM Mopar mounts.
 

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2014 GC Limited 4X4
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I came across this posted on FB. No firsthand, just sharing.

FB Link

I wanted to share a new upgrade with you all that I have personally performed on my 5.7l Hemi WK2. There is little to no information about this out there yet being tested or shared. However, many owners are finding that the stock engine mounts are failing over and over again. There is not much aftermarket support in the states for the failing oem engine mounts and it has been found that the symptoms include, sagging engine, unknown oil leak from PS or DS of vehicle, grinding shift feeling on WOT shifts, engine rough idle, engine thump between reverse and drive engagement, grinding like noise or excessive vibration at idle, thumping noise when accelerating, loss of power feeling and more.
The OEM engine mounts (isolators) for the v6, Hemi 5.7l, 6.4l and 6.2l are the exact same outer dimensions and are all liquid filled. This liquid over time leaks from the bottom of the mount and causes the conditions above.
There is a better solution than replacing the mounts with the OEM standard part number for the 5.7l Hemi. The WK2 SRT and Durango SRT mounts rarely have any at all reported issues listed above and they support the power and torque of the more powerful platform. They are a 100% no modifications needed at all direct bolt on, for the Hemi 5.7l vehicles and make a huge improvement in the symptoms listed above. They are the same part number for BOTH sides and I included a few pictures of the mounts, both old and new, side by side for you to see the difference. The installation takes about 4 hours with basic hand tools and there are a few YouTube videos that explain the installation process. Hope this helps your Jeep as much as it’s helped mine. True night and day difference. Enjoy!
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I don't notice any more vibration whether i'm in ECO or Sport mode, idle or high acceleration with my V6.
My impression of the VVL and probably wrong is its probably enabled only under certain conditions like high power demands or could be enabled in Sport mode maybe depending on engine rpm and disabled at idle rpm. All guesses.
Other wise my thinking is if its enabled all the time in any mode or even at idle they just might as well have installed higher lift cams in the engine.
Its hard get any kind of detailed VVT or VVL info as FCA is tight lipped about these things.

Far as motor mounts, my vote is OEM.
My old Neon all of a sudden developed a minor vibration notably in reverse. Found the top right mount torn.
So I changed all 4 motor mounts with basement bargain after market mounts off ebay since i was getting ready to sell the thing.
All the mounts went in relatively easy except for that right center engine mount which was a Royal PITA.
Long story short, with the new mounts the vibration was much worse especially when in Drive at a stop.

After removing the old mounts one at a time and before installing the new mounts i did compare the original OEM mounts with the new ones.
Right out of the gate the rubber compounds were obviously different.

Like you said earlier, If i had to do it all over again i also would bite the bullet and spend the extra money for the OEM Mopar mounts.
The V6 doesn't have MDS like the V8, that can be disabled by switching between ECO and Sport Mode in the later WK2's.
I can't feel any vibration with MDS activated with good motor mounts.

AFA, the VVL, I "think" at higher rpm the valvetrain simply switches over the rocker/followers to higher ratio to create more valve lift. So at idle it would be at the smaller valve lift.

I see in the parts catalog the V6 has an electric vacuum pump to assist with vacuum powered accessories. I'm probably confusing the concept of hotter cams causing less engine vacuum at idle and also creates vibration at idle. With the VVL, perhaps because of a need of a vacuum pump. VVL as I understand is a mild cam when a mild cam is needed and hotter cam when it is needed. Hot cams are just hot cams 100% of the time, same timing and lift for all rpm and loads, perfect at higher rpm for more power, but not for a smooth idle. To mild of a cam can cause low vacuum at idle as well.
 

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Another guy suggested these for a non-oil filled mount

2014-2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.0L V6 Turbo DIESEL VIN:M
2011-2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.6L V6 VIN:G
2011-2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7L V8 VIN:T
2012-2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee 6.4L V8 VIN:J


Tuff Engine Mounts

View attachment 237125

Those look like racing mounts, and cost about the same as well.

I have serious doubts this would be smooth, especially if MDS is active. I would need to feel it for myself, before buying.

Yes, one guys says he uses it in a vehicle as a daily driver and loves them. The SRT doesn't have MDS, and I still would like to hear more opinions than just one. Notice he never says they're smooth, he says he loves them.

I've met more than one person, that when it came to their car, they were so lacking in objectivity they were totally misleading. i.e. the mounts will make your WK2 feel like an idling top fuel dragster, he doesn't feel the need to mention that, he thinks all you need to know is, he loves them, and screw you if you don't like your daily driver idling like a top fuel dragster.
 

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Another guy suggested these for a non-oil filled mount

2014-2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.0L V6 Turbo DIESEL VIN:M
2011-2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.6L V6 VIN:G
2011-2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7L V8 VIN:T
2012-2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee 6.4L V8 VIN:J


Tuff Engine Mounts

View attachment 237125

CHeYeNNe, thanks for the heads up.
When it comes time i'm going to replace the mounts with those more vibrations or not.
 
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Did anyone have a SRT engine mount leak ? Maybe they are filled with polyurethane instead of oil.
I doubt they fill it with polyurethane, I'm not aware of any manufacturer doing that, only hot rodders filling voids in motor mounts with poly urethane to stiffen them up.

I'm betting, for the higher torque of the SRT they have to make the mount able to withstand it, so that might be smaller voids filled with oil and more rubber. Not having MDS, the mounts probably don't need to damp as much big vibrations that come from the MDS being active.

I'm sure they will fit a 5.7L, the big question is, when MDS activates are you going to feel and hear the vibrations that come from running on only 4cylinders in a V-8.
 

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I contacted a shop that makes engine mounts mostly for hot rods here in southern Ontario and they are willing to investigate further and maybe make something similar to tuff mounts (poly mount)... just got to get them a dead mount so if anyone in around the GTA got one let me know and i will pickup and drop it off to them
 

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I contacted a shop that makes engine mounts mostly for hot rods here in southern Ontario and they are willing to investigate further and maybe make something similar to tuff mounts (poly mount)... just got to get them a dead mount so if anyone in around the GTA got one let me know and i will pickup and drop it off to them
I'm convinced you're best bet for a poly mount is just fabricate the plate and a big stud to make an end link like on a lot sway bars. Poly bushing on either side of the plate, a plate on the outside of each bushing with a bolt to compress the bushing on the plate and then a plate to but up against the adapter on the engine block.

The one in the earlier photo, looks like it would be pretty darn rough, those bushings look pretty small. What I'm suggesting would be much larger and softer bushings.
 
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