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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello folks!

I have a 2018 Laredo, so it has halogen projector headlamps and fogs. I’ve upgraded lighting on every vehicle I’ve owned since about 1980, so this Jeep will be no exception.

I initially planned to use the brake and reverse LED’s of the forum sponsor, but I was unsure about interior lighting upgrades, so I did some research and went with VLEDS products. Their stuff worked well in my Subaru’s and they are semi-local. Another plus is photos of the actual products, so I can see exactly what I am getting.


Inside I went with VLEDS 5k bulbs in front dome, rear cargo, and front floor, and glove box positions. I also went with 5k LED vanity bulbs. It seems my front and rear map lights are factory LEDs that appear the color of incandescent bulbs. I’m not going to mess with those.

I decided to run the VLED Triton V6 Switchback in my front parking light / front turn signal position. I’ve installed it “plug & play” with no resistors or canbus adapter modules needed. While up front I also added VLEDS bulbs in the side marker positions. The 5k white parking light is a thing of beauty and the bright orange turn signal gets noticed when needed.

High Beams, Low Beams, and Fog Lights are running the VLEDS Micro Evolution headlights, each in H11 size (my 2017 uses H9 high beams so this is the correct part). I’m currently using a canbus module on all positions. I plan to remove the modules in the next few weeks, to see if they are actually necessary. I did the fog light dropout (Appcar FCA) and now have fogs with parking, low, and high beams. Finally (up front) I changed the DRL output to the fog lights, from reduced power low beams. I kept the “Optional DRL” setting intact, which allows the DRL feature to be enabled/disabled via the settings menu in the radio.

In the rear I’m using the VLEDS high power reverse lights in 7440 and 921 respectively. I’m also using the same bulb (in red) in 3157 for my brake / turn bulbs. Finally, I’m running that same (red) high power bulb in 7440 inside of my Taillight Solutions rear “fog” kit. Mine is operating for brake & turn only as I feel the stock LED taillights are plenty sufficient as tails.

When I initially used AppcarFCA and changed my settings to LED, I noticed that I still had some occasional hyper flash of my indicator on the dash. I also had a few bulb out error messages in the “message center” within the instrument cluster. After several power cycles (over about three days) the error messages have not reoccurred and hyperflash is gone. When the errors previously occurred they did not hyperflash outside, only on the dash. In any case, it’s all better now. I suspect there was some type of “learning” period with the vehicle computer.

As of now I’m impressed. Everything is much, much brighter that stock and everything works as intended. I plan to install a Rigid Industries “midnight edition” 20” bar between my tow hooks in the coming weeks. That will be installed with a wireless switch system and I’ll update when that’s done. At the same time I’ll pull the canbus adapters from the forward lights to see if Appcar FCA settings were sufficient.

Photos when I am able.

Hoppy
 

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Hello folks!

I have a 2018 Laredo, so it has halogen projector headlamps and fogs. I’ve upgraded lighting on every vehicle I’ve owned since about 1980, so this Jeep will be no exception.

I initially planned to use the brake and reverse LED’s of the forum sponsor, but I was unsure about interior lighting upgrades, so I did some research and went with VLEDS products. Their stuff worked well in my Subaru’s and they are semi-local. Another plus is photos of the actual products, so I can see exactly what I am getting.


Inside I went with VLEDS 5k bulbs in front dome, rear cargo, and front floor, and glove box positions. I also went with 5k LED vanity bulbs. It seems my front and rear map lights are factory LEDs that appear the color of incandescent bulbs. I’m not going to mess with those.

I decided to run the VLED Triton V6 Switchback in my front parking light / front turn signal position. I’ve installed it “plug & play” with no resistors or canbus adapter modules needed. While up front I also added VLEDS bulbs in the side marker positions. The 5k white parking light is a thing of beauty and the bright orange turn signal gets noticed when needed.

High Beams, Low Beams, and Fog Lights are running the VLEDS Micro Evolution headlights, each in H11 size (my 2017 uses H9 high beams so this is the correct part). I’m currently using a canbus module on all positions. I plan to remove the modules in the next few weeks, to see if they are actually necessary. I did the fog light dropout (Appcar FCA) and now have fogs with parking, low, and high beams. Finally (up front) I changed the DRL output to the fog lights, from reduced power low beams. I kept the “Optional DRL” setting intact, which allows the DRL feature to be enabled/disabled via the settings menu in the radio.

In the rear I’m using the VLEDS high power reverse lights in 7440 and 921 respectively. I’m also using the same bulb (in red) in 3157 for my brake / turn bulbs. Finally, I’m running that same (red) high power bulb in 7440 inside of my Taillight Solutions rear “fog” kit. Mine is operating for brake & turn only as I feel the stock LED taillights are plenty sufficient as tails.

When I initially used AppcarFCA and changed my settings to LED, I noticed that I still had some occasional hyper flash of my indicator on the dash. I also had a few bulb out error messages in the “message center” within the instrument cluster. After several power cycles (over about three days) the error messages have not reoccurred and hyperflash is gone. When the errors previously occurred they did not hyperflash outside, only on the dash. In any case, it’s all better now. I suspect there was some type of “learning” period with the vehicle computer.

As of now I’m impressed. Everything is much, much brighter that stock and everything works as intended. I plan to install a Rigid Industries “midnight edition” 20” bar between my tow hooks in the coming weeks. That will be installed with a wireless switch system and I’ll update when that’s done. At the same time I’ll pull the canbus adapters from the forward lights to see if Appcar FCA settings were sufficient.

Photos when I am able.

Hoppy
do you think I can put those headlamps in my 96 grand cherokee
 

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Discussion Starter #3
do you think I can put those headlamps in my 96 grand cherokee


It should actually be easier in your 96, as you wouldn’t need to worry about the canbus modules, the bulbs are plug & play. They work in the fog lamps too. If it were my vehicle I’d do the entire exterior in LED.

The VLEDS headlights are easily “indexed” to allow them to fire toward the left & right when seated in the housing. This is necessary for most effective light reflection inside the housing.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Update:

I removed all the canbus adapters from all six led bulb positions (high, low, fog) and everything is working as it should, no flickering or issues. I’ll continue to monitor and report if anything changes, but at this point I believe the AppcarFCA setting changes are sufficient to run LED bulbs in all positions, at least on the 2018.
 

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very nice!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I posted the below on the other Jeep forum, but posting here for clarification.


Hoppy



The Micro Evolution bulbs have an adjustable collar that allows the LED’s to be rotated in 90 degree intervals. For ideal output the LED’s should fire to the sides.

In our strangely designed housings the base/bottom of the bulb (where the wire comes out) should be facing down for this to occur in stock configuration. In every other vehicle I’ve owned the bulb installs and sits in this way as intended.

In the Jeep that would place the base/bottom sits about 10 o’clock when fully seated. This places the led elements facing 2 & 8 o’clock respectively.

Rotating the collar 90 degrees places that base/bottom at 1 o’clock when fully seated, firing the LED’s at 4 & 10 respectively.

I installed this way and just didn’t fully turn the bulb, so as to allow 9-3 orientation of the LED’s. There is enough tension to hold the bulb in this way and I have zero worry of it moving. It’s secure IMO.

I’ll pass along to VLEDS that allowing for more specific adjustment, say 45 degree adjustment might be better.

The high beams and fog lamps both sit correctly when fully turned, both also using H11 (high beam is H9 but same base as H11 and with LED’s it doesn’t matter, same application). This is in my 2018.

I might have considered an HID low beam option if these headlights had a hard rear cap (to allow a hole/grommet to run ballast wires) but they use a soft rubber cover on my vehicle.

Another nice thing about the VLEDS Micro Evolution is that it’s a direct plug & play solution when updating settings using AppcarFCA. This means no extra anti-flicker canbus modules are needed.

Again, having installed these in my 2018 twice (once with canbus modules, then I removed and reinstalled without) I feel they aren’t going anywhere. The light output is at least as good as any HID kit I’ve used on vehicles in the past (Phillips & Morimoto).
 

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Finally (up front) I changed the DRL output to the fog lights, from reduced power low beams. I kept the “Optional DRL” setting intact, which allows the DRL feature to be enabled/disabled via the settings menu in the radio.
Great write up. Im intrigued at the above. Can you elaborate a bit more?

If I understand correctly you have the DRL option on from the connect setting but instead of the low beams turning on your fogs turn on? If so, how did you achieve this? I would like to do this myself as well.:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Great write up. Im intrigued at the above. Can you elaborate a bit more?



If I understand correctly you have the DRL option on from the connect setting but instead of the low beams turning on your fogs turn on? If so, how did you achieve this? I would like to do this myself as well.:thumbsup:


It’s a setting in the AppcarFCA software. You get the option of different DRL outputs and 50% power or full power on some outputs.

When using this setting the default is “Optional DRL” and low-beam at reduced power. You want to retain “optional DRL” setting as this means you have the option to enable/disable the DRL feature in the settings menu on the radio, just as you can from the factory. I assume Canadian models have this off by default, since DRL is mandatory there.

I changed to fog lamp DRL output and full power.

The software is great.

Another option is to send the DRL signal to the front parking lights. I tried this but didn’t care for it for a couple reasons;

(1) I’m using the VLEDS Triton Switchback white/amber bulbs. They are white in parking mode and switch to amber in signal mode, then they revert to white. In DRL mode they illuminated amber only. No big deal but not my preference.
(2) I figured by using the fogs as DRL I could always disable the DRL from the dash menu, in the event I had a burned out bulb.

Regarding the LED turn signals and and software settings; I do occasionally (couple times a week maybe) get a bulb out warning and rapid flash, but it self-corrects in seconds. When it does occur the inside dash signal hyper-flashes but exterior remains normal. It pops up as a message on the multi-function display, but that also self corrects and goes back to normal. It’s very brief and not an issue for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
I took some photos to help illustrate the headlight performance. Two things; (1) it’s difficult to take this type of photo and (2) I’m a crappy photographer.

These are in a school parking lot and the ground slopes down from me.

Low beams only



High beams only



Low beams with fog lamps



High beams with fog lamps (enabled via the AppcarFCA software)

 

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I recently purchased a new Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited. I've got the standard headlights, I was wondering where or how to upgrade them to the DRL headlamps with the LED strip? Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I recently purchased a new Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited. I've got the standard headlights, I was wondering where or how to upgrade them to the DRL headlamps with the LED strip? Thanks!


There are other threads that discuss the modification you are after. As I understand it you’ll need a custom made harness and a couple forum guys are making such a harness to facilitate the swap. If you search the forum it should be easy to find.

I didn’t want to go that route, so it’s not discussed above.

Congrats on your new Jeep.
 

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Thanks! I'm also new to this forum. I'll take a look.





I recently purchased a new Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited. I've got the standard headlights, I was wondering where or how to upgrade them to the DRL headlamps with the LED strip? Thanks!


There are other threads that discuss the modification you are after. As I understand it you’ll need a custom made harness and a couple forum guys are making such a harness to facilitate the swap. If you search the forum it should be easy to find.

I didn’t want to go that route, so it’s not discussed above.

Congrats on your new Jeep.
 

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Thanks for the great write up! Do you have any install tips or tricks you learned along the way?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks for the great write up! Do you have any install tips or tricks you learned along the way?

I’d say pull the bumper as it’s easy and most effective.

If you use the AppcarFCA software to set all positions as LED you won’t need canbus adapters or resistors. I do occasionally get a bulb out error on dash, maybe twice a week, but it quickly cancels out and self corrects. No issue.

When installing the high beams and fogs, simply insert the Micro Evolution bulb and twist to fully “seat” or lock in. On the low beams Jeep orientated the bulb in a weird way; on the high & fogs, the led bulb sits with the default 6 o’clock bulb position at six o’clock. On the low Beam, Jeep made the low beam sit with its default 6 o’clock position at 10 o’clock. Using a halogen bulb this doesn’t really matter since the element produces light in a 360 degree pattern. With an LED you want the diodes firing horizontally. The Micro Evolution bulbs have an adjustable collar, so you can move it in a 90 degree step, this places the bulb “base” or 6 o’clock position at 1 o’clock (if this makes sense, I’m calling 6 o’clock where the wire comes out, so it’s where the LED’s would fire horizontally). Since 12 o’clock would be “upside down” from the highs & fogs, the LED’s would still fire horizontally and all is perfect. At the 1 o’clock position it’s extremely close and likely still fine. I’m a little ocd with stuff like this so I didn’t fully twist the led bulbs into position, leaving the base/bottom (where wire comes out) at 12. There is enough tension from the o-ring to hold it fine there. Also, as I recall the Micro Evolution has a 175 degree output, so both sides give 350 degrees of 360. I don’t see any dark spots or “holes” in the beam as I did with the first couple generations of led bulbs. Output; both brightness and throw, is stellar. Significantly better than the stock halogens, even in pattern. That these are projector low beams likely means that orientation of that bulb wouldn’t matter much (if at all) since the light is essentially captured in the projector and pushed out the lens.

This is a modification I would gladly repeat and highly recommend.
 

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Hoppy, THANK YOU for the advice! I will return what I just purchased and buy the Micros. I have an 18 JGC, do I have to remove the airbox + to replace the high beams? The low beans accessed through the wheel wells? The book states my fog lights are already LED, should I change them too? I see they want you to buy cancelling adapters for these lights, do I need them for an additional $30 per bulb set? Did you use/install them? Thanks, Craig
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Hoppy, THANK YOU for the advice! I will return what I just purchased and buy the Micros. I have an 18 JGC, do I have to remove the airbox + to replace the high beams? The low beans accessed through the wheel wells? The book states my fog lights are already LED, should I change them too? I see they want you to buy cancelling adapters for these lights, do I need them for an additional $30 per bulb set? Did you use/install them? Thanks, Craig


First, the fogs; no, if you have the factory LED’s I’d leave them be.

As for the headlights; I’d strongly suggest you pull the bumper skin. It’s easy and gives the best access. You’ll find the wheel well access to be terrible (IMO) and you’ll end up wishing you just pulled the bumper skin.

You only need the “canbus adapters” if you don’t make the software changes. If you decide to get them, PM me as I’ve got five new ones sitting here. I’m fact, if you PM your number I’ll gladly call and answer any questions.

I’m not an expert on the models and trim, but I thought the LED fogs came on the higher trim levels that already had the HID headlamps. You might want to double check to be sure you have them.

Best,

Hoppy
 

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First, the fogs; no, if you have the factory LED’s I’d leave them be.

As for the headlights; I’d strongly suggest you pull the bumper skin. It’s easy and gives the best access. You’ll find the wheel well access to be terrible (IMO) and you’ll end up wishing you just pulled the bumper skin.

You only need the “canbus adapters” if you don’t make the software changes. If you decide to get them, PM me as I’ve got five new ones sitting here. I’m fact, if you PM your number I’ll gladly call and answer any questions.

I’m not an expert on the models and trim, but I thought the LED fogs came on the higher trim levels that already had the HID headlamps. You might want to double check to be sure you have them.

Best,

Hoppy
Any tips on removing the bumper skin?
 
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