Jeep Garage  - Jeep Forum banner

61 - 80 of 112 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
272 Posts
It does not look bright in full daylight on my patio.

Hmm, 56 watts into the ballast. The voltage from this jell cell battery is 12.1v. The ballast is stone cold after ten minuets so there is not much loss. The "strike module" is also stone cold.
Temp shot immediately after removing power. Wow, 140 is HOT! I am doubting my thermometer.

The old lamp:

Less power, only 51 watts at 12.1v

Not as hot:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
310 Posts
Discussion Starter #63
It does not look bright in full daylight on my patio.



Hmm, 56 watts into the ballast. The voltage from this jell cell battery is 12.1v. The ballast is stone cold after ten minuets so there is not much loss. The "strike module" is also stone cold.

Temp shot immediately after removing power. Wow, 140 is HOT! I am doubting my thermometer.



The old lamp:



Less power, only 51 watts at 12.1v



Not as hot:



Phred: I’m not sure how this is relevant to my LED lighting thread? Maybe start a thread with your modifications as this has gone way off track. My intention wasn’t to debate upgrades but to provide information to those who were considering led upgrades for their vehicles.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
272 Posts
@Phred just out of curiosity.. do you recall what "brand" the are?
"Carrover". It is an off brand. I used them on my Wrangler, and the price was right.

I guess this thread is all over the map now.

Sorry
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
310 Posts
Discussion Starter #65
I guess this thread is all over the map now.



Sorry


It doesn’t have to be. Let’s try to stay focused on the LED upgrades and questions relevant to that. This will make the thread a good resource for others.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
272 Posts
The sun is starting to set, so the LED's look brighter.

Hmm, 31 watts:

Not a bad temp after ten min. Maybe I will use these in my high beams.

Presently I have 360 degree 8 watt LED high beams.

I have now posted examples of all three technologies, so hopefully this helps anyone who has questions.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
310 Posts
Discussion Starter #67
the sun is starting to set, so the led's look brighter.

hmm, 31 watts:

not a bad temp after ten min. Maybe i will use these in my high beams.

presently i have 360 degree 8 watt led high beams.

I have now posted examples of all three technologies, so hopefully this helps anyone who has questions.


smh
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Hello folks!

I have a 2018 Laredo, so it has halogen projector headlamps and fogs. I’ve upgraded lighting on every vehicle I’ve owned since about 1980, so this Jeep will be no exception.

I initially planned to use the brake and reverse LED’s of the forum sponsor, but I was unsure about interior lighting upgrades, so I did some research and went with VLEDS products. Their stuff worked well in my Subaru’s and they are semi-local. Another plus is photos of the actual products, so I can see exactly what I am getting.


Inside I went with VLEDS 5k bulbs in front dome, rear cargo, and front floor, and glove box positions. I also went with 5k LED vanity bulbs. It seems my front and rear map lights are factory LEDs that appear the color of incandescent bulbs. I’m not going to mess with those.

I decided to run the VLED Triton V6 Switchback in my front parking light / front turn signal position. I’ve installed it “plug & play” with no resistors or canbus adapter modules needed. While up front I also added VLEDS bulbs in the side marker positions. The 5k white parking light is a thing of beauty and the bright orange turn signal gets noticed when needed.

High Beams, Low Beams, and Fog Lights are running the VLEDS Micro Evolution headlights, each in H11 size (my 2017 uses H9 high beams so this is the correct part). I’m currently using a canbus module on all positions. I plan to remove the modules in the next few weeks, to see if they are actually necessary. I did the fog light dropout (Appcar FCA) and now have fogs with parking, low, and high beams. Finally (up front) I changed the DRL output to the fog lights, from reduced power low beams. I kept the “Optional DRL” setting intact, which allows the DRL feature to be enabled/disabled via the settings menu in the radio.

In the rear I’m using the VLEDS high power reverse lights in 7440 and 921 respectively. I’m also using the same bulb (in red) in 3157 for my brake / turn bulbs. Finally, I’m running that same (red) high power bulb in 7440 inside of my Taillight Solutions rear “fog” kit. Mine is operating for brake & turn only as I feel the stock LED taillights are plenty sufficient as tails.

When I initially used AppcarFCA and changed my settings to LED, I noticed that I still had some occasional hyper flash of my indicator on the dash. I also had a few bulb out error messages in the “message center” within the instrument cluster. After several power cycles (over about three days) the error messages have not reoccurred and hyperflash is gone. When the errors previously occurred they did not hyperflash outside, only on the dash. In any case, it’s all better now. I suspect there was some type of “learning” period with the vehicle computer.

As of now I’m impressed. Everything is much, much brighter that stock and everything works as intended. I plan to install a Rigid Industries “midnight edition” 20” bar between my tow hooks in the coming weeks. That will be installed with a wireless switch system and I’ll update when that’s done. At the same time I’ll pull the canbus adapters from the forward lights to see if Appcar FCA settings were sufficient.

Photos when I am able.

Hoppy
I have 2018 trailhawk with the same headlight assembly as yours. Do I need the "Error Canceler" from Vled? are they the same thing in your post "canbus adapter"? I saw the canbus adapter is selling different price than the error canceler.

how can you access to the fog light. If accessed from the side fender, there's couple rivet that are very hard to pull. thanks for the post
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
310 Posts
Discussion Starter #69
I have 2018 trailhawk with the same headlight assembly as yours. Do I need the "Error Canceler" from Vled? are they the same thing in your post "canbus adapter"? I saw the canbus adapter is selling different price than the error canceler.



how can you access to the fog light. If accessed from the side fender, there's couple rivet that are very hard to pull. thanks for the post

If you do the coding you won’t need either. I used the canbus adapter initially but removed them when I did the coding.

The best way to get to all the lights is to remove the bumper skin. It’s simple and much easier than trying to reach through or around. There are videos on how to remove it, just check YouTube or here on the forum.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
If you do the coding you won’t need either. I used the canbus adapter initially but removed them when I did the coding.

The best way to get to all the lights is to remove the bumper skin. It’s simple and much easier than trying to reach through or around. There are videos on how to remove it, just check YouTube or here on the forum.
Let me do some research and see how hard to use the software. If not changing the code, do I need both or just the "error canceller" is must have?

For accessing the wheel well liner, seems like two of the push rivet in the front side have to be cut off, at least from the YouTube video. And replace those need rivet gun. Did you have a good substitution ? Any where cheaper to buy?

Thanks
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
310 Posts
Discussion Starter #71
Let me do some research and see how hard to use the software. If not changing the code, do I need both or just the "error canceller" is must have?

For accessing the wheel well liner, seems like two of the push rivet in the front side have to be cut off, at least from the YouTube video. And replace those need rivet gun. Did you have a good substitution ? Any where cheaper to buy?

Thanks


Just the canbus adapter worked for me. The coding is simple.


For the second question; read all my posts in this thread and your questions should be answered.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
ER... On #33 floor you are answering the same questions for the other guy but saying refer to your previous post for cheap rivet replacement. Unfortunately still can't find it. Anyway, thanks for the post. Really helpful for the mod.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
262 Posts
ER... On #33 floor you are answering the same questions for the other guy but saying refer to your previous post for cheap rivet replacement. Unfortunately still can't find it. Anyway, thanks for the post. Really helpful for the mod.
Duct tape is a good substitution.....

Amazon sells fastener kits also for dirt cheap. Places like Fastenal or Harbor Freight also sell 50 to 500 count kits for like $25.

Or.... try Lowes or Home Depot. Look for nylon screws.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
310 Posts
Discussion Starter #74
ER... On #33 floor you are answering the same questions for the other guy but saying refer to your previous post for cheap rivet replacement. Unfortunately still can't find it. Anyway, thanks for the post. Really helpful for the mod.


That’s weird, I could swear I posted it.

Anyway, I used this kit. Excellent substitutions and the entire kit was about the same price as three fasteners from the dealer.

EZYKOO Push Bumper Fastener Rivet... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0734RB6XG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
2018 trailhawk. Finish the project. OP provided very good information for turning the bulb base. Otherwise, take you forever to align the bulb. Taking off the side liner is the only way to access the fog and it should only take 10 mins for the God project . The liner off will give you good access to the low beam, especially the driver side. Taking off the intake vent will be good for driver side. My jeep comes the rubber dust cap. You could fit the the led driver and the canbus in the projecter hole. But I was worrying about over heating so zip tie then out side. The dust cap won't fully close any way because jeep design the projecter hole not concentric with the housing. See my picture. Not very impressed with vled. I order the express and the evolution. Can't tell the difference. Would choose diode dynamic if their lead time is shorter.
 

·
Registered
2018 Limited
Joined
·
187 Posts
2018 trailhawk. Finish the project. OP provided very good information for turning the bulb base. Otherwise, take you forever to align the bulb. Taking off the side liner is the only way to access the fog and it should only take 10 mins for the God project . The liner off will give you good access to the low beam, especially the driver side. Taking off the intake vent will be good for driver side. My jeep comes the rubber dust cap. You could fit the the led driver and the canbus in the projecter hole. But I was worrying about over heating so zip tie then out side. The dust cap won't fully close any way because jeep design the projecter hole not concentric with the housing. See my picture. Not very impressed with vled. I order the express and the evolution. Can't tell the difference. Would choose diode dynamic if their lead time is shorter.

I would look for something different than Diode Dynamics...I tried their SL1 when I first got my JGC last Summer...the beam pattern was terrible. VLED is far from perfect, but much better. There may be other manufacturers out there that hit the sweet spot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
I would look for something different than Diode Dynamics...I tried their SL1 when I first got my JGC last Summer...the beam pattern was terrible. VLED is far from perfect, but much better. There may be other manufacturers out there that hit the sweet spot.


I'm OK with the output and beam pattern with the evolution extreme version on my low beam. It's just the made doesn't feel like a premium product. The knob adjustment didn't cut evenly so I spend fair amount of time to rework to as OP suggested angle.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
310 Posts
Discussion Starter #79
I'm OK with the output and beam pattern with the evolution extreme version on my low beam. It's just the made doesn't feel like a premium product. The knob adjustment didn't cut evenly so I spend fair amount of time to rework to as OP suggested angle.

It is not the VLED bulb it is the strange angle that Jeep used. Most bulbs index at the 6 o’clock position, whereas Jeep uses a 10 o’clock index.

When properly installed the beam pattern is ideal. Mine are flawless.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
It is not the VLED bulb it is the strange angle that Jeep used. Most bulbs index at the 6 o’clock position, whereas Jeep uses a 10 o’clock index.

When properly installed the beam pattern is ideal. Mine are flawless.
Did you notice the projecter housing is not concentric with the headlight assembly hole? By that, I mean after install the light bulb, the bulb butt will not sit in the middle of the dust cap. The light bulb butt is off set to the edge of the dust cap edge.
 
61 - 80 of 112 Posts
Top