[jeffreybehr]

I'll most-likely be upgrading my '13 Grand Cherokee's standard-duty* brakes to the heavy-duty** 13.8" front rotors and caliper brackets, just because I want to and because I believe strongly that there's no such thing as having too-good brakes on one's vehicle.

The source for affordable rotors, BrakePerformance.com...
Premium Dimpled and Slotted Brake Rotors

...has many choices of slotting, drilling, and/or dimpling the rotors.

I've read that slotted rotors tend to fill with mud/dirt/sand when 4-wheeling compared with nonslotted rotors, thereby reducing brake performance and pad and rotor life.

What do you as an experienced off-roadist think about that?


* 13" front rotors and nonvented rear rotors
** 13.8" front rotors and vented rear rotors

 

[jeffreybehr]

Anyone?

 

[VistaCruiser]

Depends on what you wheel in. Mud, I could see possible problems. Dusty desert areas may not see any issues. HTH

Sam

 

[jeffreybehr]

TY Sam. What does 'HTH' mean?

 

[VistaCruiser]

Hope This Helps...Sometimes my advice doesn't help (the wallet).

Sam

 

[206WJ]

I know this is a little old, but I run cross drilled Stillen rotors on my WJ, and love them!

I have not had any problems in snow, mud, sand, or dust. They are actually quieter than my stock ones are and much better grip all around.

 

[Setoutguy]

Do you want to look good or Stop????

Why do you want drilled rotors? Or Slotted. Drilled rotors have tendency to crack etc and do little if anything to really improve braking performance. Holes on the original Porsche rotors were cast in and not drilled and Porsche rotors are the same today. The holes do very little to cool the brakes. Slots if you break in your rotors and let them off gas will do very little to improve your braking peformance.

A rotor is massive heat sink. Removing material ie slots or holes effects the ability of the rotor to dissipate heat. Its all about heat. Many cars run OEM rotors in SCCA IT racing w/o slotting or drilling w/o issues.

Cross drilled and slotting is usually for looks and do little if anything for performance in everyday driving and even on the track. I ran a 90 E30325i for track days and used OEM BMW rotors that years hot brake pad F&R, Earls brakes lines and changed the fluid for every weekend and never had an issue
Back in the early and mid 90's was consistently turning laps at Summit Point under 1:35. My front rotors glowed red at the end of turn 1 and sometimes into turn 5.

I dont know who has the holes cast in their rotors these days. Most brake rotors have the holes drilled in. Not sure about Brembo.

Go with high performance pad, a brake fluid with high wet boiling point, and maybe some braided lines from Earl's. Buy the best rotors you can afford. Also change the fluid at least every 24mos and if you live in a humid or wet area maybe every 18mos if not sooner.

Since you arent racing brake cooling isnt an issue.

Suggest you might want to read Carroll Smith's books on racecar prep for more info on brakes.