Yes, I changed my oil the other day and yes the cooler drain is a huge pain to get to. There are some non-reusable aluminum rivets (painted black) that must be removed where the belly pan is attached to the wheel house lining and bottom of the bumper. Then there is a boss on the belly pan that is behind the wheel house lining that prevents the belly pan from sliding straight out (see photo below). I stopped at this point and ended up not draining the oil cooler.Wonder if anyone has done a DIY oil change yet.
Haven't looked real close yet, but looks like the cooler drain
might be a pain to get to.
Just as a data point.. there was a guy a few years ago running oil analysis on a regular basis on his chevy 350 and comparing dino v synthetic oil. He found that at about 10K the synthetic tested below limits but rather than change the oil he added a quart as it was a quart low. Then in a couple thousand more miles he ran another sample and the oil was back in spec. So it would seem that "out of spec" oil, i.e. oil that should be changed can be somewhat rejuvenated even with as little as one new quart of oil. I'm not recommending that approach but it was interesting that 1 new quart added to 4 dirty quarts brought it back in spec.I wonder what our service manuals say? I don't have mine yet so I can't look. Go without changing the oil in the oil cooler or not? If you don't drain it then it mixes with the clean oil. Is that enough dirty oil to make a difference in oil performance?
Gonna do mine this week. D id it take about 8qts without draining cooler.I just changed the oil and filter in mine today. Soooooo much easier than it was in my previous 6.4 SRT's. Probably 30 mins start to finish, including prep and cleanup. Everything was easy to get to. Man this beast holds a lot of oil even without draining the oil cooler.
I was using 5qt containers and I was well into the second one so that sounds about right. I do fill mine close to the high range mark on the dip stick. By the way, I just used a "correctly fitting" metal end cap wrench on the filter. No other special/odd filter wrenches needed. Easy off, easy on, worked great!Gonna do mine this week. D id it take about 8qts without draining cooler.
I bought both the FRAM and MOPAR filters but decided to just stay with the MOPAR OEM part 899. I figure if it was good enough to use with the factory build it was good enough now. I did add a quart of Slick 50 with this oil change. I've done that with all my new HP engines (Vettes, SRT's, etc) with the first oil change in the past 15+ years and have never had any engine problems. Maybe it helps?The SRT oil filter can also be used
Higher Bypass spring little better media.
Mopar Part #5038041AA