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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Wonder if anyone has done a DIY oil change yet.
Haven't looked real close yet, but looks like the cooler drain
might be a pain to get to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
yeah I read about that on Jeep Wave. Kinda wanted to do the first one
myself. Don't have a lot of trust in the dealers around here.
 

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Wonder if anyone has done a DIY oil change yet.
Haven't looked real close yet, but looks like the cooler drain
might be a pain to get to.
Yes, I changed my oil the other day and yes the cooler drain is a huge pain to get to. There are some non-reusable aluminum rivets (painted black) that must be removed where the belly pan is attached to the wheel house lining and bottom of the bumper. Then there is a boss on the belly pan that is behind the wheel house lining that prevents the belly pan from sliding straight out (see photo below). I stopped at this point and ended up not draining the oil cooler.

Instead of removing the belly pan, the mechanic at my Jeep dealership suggested trying to remove several of the rivets on the wheel house lining and trying to flex the lining enough to reach inside to get to the cooler drain plug. Then replace the rivets with reusable plastic ones for next time. I haven't tried this yet.

If you are not draining the oil cooler, then it is very easy to change the oil. The belly pan has an opening right under the filter and drain plug.
 

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The oil life indicator on my TH said it was time to change my oil at 3,000 miles. How many miles was it for you others who have changed their oil?
 

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I had my first oil change last Friday. Normally, I have the oil changed every 2,500 miles. Remaining oil life was 59%.
Didn't know, to begin with, about the difficulty in accessing the drain on the oil cooler; did know that factory instructions call for draining cooler.
The service folks didn't know about the belly pan removal either - this was the first time they'd serviced a T'hawk.

Charge for the additional work was $85.00. I was talking to a buddy about this (who is retired from my Jeep dealer's service department) and his suggestion was what some here, and on other TH forums have said: forget about draining that one pint of oil from the cooler. I want to see what the dealer has to say about any affect on the warranty, if the cooler is not drained.

Oh, yeah, the tech missed re-installing the bottom plastic rivet at wheel well lip. Forty-mile round trip, yesterday, to have that done. Got a freebie bag full of new rivets, for possible future use.
 

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They should have reusable rivets if the cooler needs to be drained let alone make it more accessible.
 

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My concern is that a tech in a hurry (and they usually are) might re-use a rivet that was damaged during the initial removal. If that happens, it is possible the rivet will just fall out. I think if the rivets are considered "reusable", many service departments would continue to use them until they do simply fall out.

I don't think that would result in any damage to the vehicle - unless all the rivets fell out at once - but it is irritating to notice "Hey! There's a freakin' rivet missing!"
Nobody else will notice, but the empty hole will eat at you, will consume your soul until that rivet is replaced :). So I intend to ask that the rivets be replaced - and not reused. And I'll have a small stash of 'em tucked somewhere, just in case.

The entire matter would be resolved with considerably less angst by simply ignoring that pint of oil in the cooler!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks all. Think I may just forget the oil cooler. I only
get a little less than 10oz's out of my hellcat. With frequent
changes it shouldn't be much of a problem.
 

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Dealer told me that wave does not cover the oil cooler (would have been 85$ extra and an hour of time). I told them i would pass.
 

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I wonder what our service manuals say? I don't have mine yet so I can't look. Go without changing the oil in the oil cooler or not? If you don't drain it then it mixes with the clean oil. Is that enough dirty oil to make a difference in oil performance?
 

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I wonder what our service manuals say? I don't have mine yet so I can't look. Go without changing the oil in the oil cooler or not? If you don't drain it then it mixes with the clean oil. Is that enough dirty oil to make a difference in oil performance?
Just as a data point.. there was a guy a few years ago running oil analysis on a regular basis on his chevy 350 and comparing dino v synthetic oil. He found that at about 10K the synthetic tested below limits but rather than change the oil he added a quart as it was a quart low. Then in a couple thousand more miles he ran another sample and the oil was back in spec. So it would seem that "out of spec" oil, i.e. oil that should be changed can be somewhat rejuvenated even with as little as one new quart of oil. I'm not recommending that approach but it was interesting that 1 new quart added to 4 dirty quarts brought it back in spec.

So it hardly seems worth worrying about the few oz of old old that will be in the cooler when you do an oil change.
 

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I just changed the oil and filter in mine today. Soooooo much easier than it was in my previous 6.4 SRT's. Probably 30 mins start to finish, including prep and cleanup. Everything was easy to get to. Man this beast holds a lot of oil even without draining the oil cooler.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I just changed the oil and filter in mine today. Soooooo much easier than it was in my previous 6.4 SRT's. Probably 30 mins start to finish, including prep and cleanup. Everything was easy to get to. Man this beast holds a lot of oil even without draining the oil cooler.
Gonna do mine this week. D id it take about 8qts without draining cooler.
 

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Gonna do mine this week. D id it take about 8qts without draining cooler.
I was using 5qt containers and I was well into the second one so that sounds about right. I do fill mine close to the high range mark on the dip stick. By the way, I just used a "correctly fitting" metal end cap wrench on the filter. No other special/odd filter wrenches needed. Easy off, easy on, worked great!
 

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The SRT oil filter can also be used

Higher Bypass spring little better media.

Mopar Part #5038041AA
 

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The SRT oil filter can also be used

Higher Bypass spring little better media.

Mopar Part #5038041AA
I bought both the FRAM and MOPAR filters but decided to just stay with the MOPAR OEM part 899. I figure if it was good enough to use with the factory build it was good enough now.:) I did add a quart of Slick 50 with this oil change. I've done that with all my new HP engines (Vettes, SRT's, etc) with the first oil change in the past 15+ years and have never had any engine problems. Maybe it helps?
 
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