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I was wondering if anyone had a write up or something with pictures of how to replace my oil pan. My jeep is a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo L6 4.0L.

Mine is leaking and I would like to replace the pan and gasket. Not sure what I have to move etc tho.

Thanks for the help!
 

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The Original
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1.Drain the old Oil First.
2.Unbolt the Oil Pan
3.Once the Oil Pan is off make sure the gasket is off
4. Have new oil pan ready with new oil pan gasket
5. Bolt back up and add new Oil
 

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The Original
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1.) Jacked up the front, put it on jack stands (only have 1 jack) and let the suspension hang as far as it could.
2.) Unbolted the oil pan and slid/twisted it toward the drivers side so that I could get at the oil pickup.
3.) Removed the long bolt that holds the oil pump and oil pickup to the block. Removed the oil pickup.
4.) Removed 2 bolts that hold the access cover in place for the fly wheel.
5.) Removed the oil pan.

That's for a ZJ, but it shold help out. Plan it out before removing it. It's not that hard than you think.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
OK, now i'm lost... first you said simply unbolt it and replace. Now twist it and oil pickup? What is that? Long bolt that holds the oil pump? I have to take that off too?
 

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Just go with the first one I put up. I got that from another site. Just make sure you have some jackstands so you have enough room. Drain the Oil first and then unbolt. You can look at some work on JU or JF.
 

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It may be hard to pull the pan off with suspension bolted up. I can't pull the pan off of my 4.7 that way. Once the pan is removed which is really not hard, you may have to clean the old gasket material off first to make sure you have a completely clean mating surface.

Buy a good rubber one piece gasket if you can. It will be reusable and you wont have to clean up anything if you ever have to drop the pan again. You have to torque youe pan bolts when you reinstall and in the correct bolt tightening sequence or you will warp the pan and have leaks all over again.
 

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I just climbed under my WJ with the 4.0 and by a quick glance it looks like it just unbolts. It appears that there is a bracket for some trans cooler lines that bolts to the pan, the starter and the exhaust pipe overlaps the lip on the oil pan, but they should be able to be worked around. But I would have a rubber mallet, a deep and shallow rachet sockets, and some well rested arms. There is a alot of nuts and bolts!

Good Luck!

Brian

PS: Do not forget the thread lock when reinstalling.
 

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I do not know how many miles is own your jeep, but you should consider replacing the rear main seal while you have your oil pan removed.
 

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My problem was getting the pan all the way out with the front axle in place. It just would not happen, but like I said that is on my 4.7. The 4L may be a piece of cake.

you will have to unhook your oil pickup tube. you'll see it once you drain and take all the bolts out and start dropping the pan. Reach in and unbolt it and drop it into the pan then pull the whole thing out at one time if you can.
 

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You have to drop the tranny to get to the rear main seal.

You do not have to drop the transmission, on the 4.0. You may on the 4.7, but the 4.0 is a whole different animal. I have never worked on the 4.7, only the 5.8 and that was enough for me to appreciate the virtues of the 4.0. The rear main seal on a 4.0 is a two piece seal that is located under the last cap of the crank. You have to drop the pan, pull the cap, pull the upper part of seal out and pull the bottom part of the seal out, feed the upper seal back up and around, fit the bottom back in the grove and retorque the cap back into place. He should be able to replace both seals for about 50-60 bucks. The biggest PITA is going to be unbolting/rebolting the pan back up.
 

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I know this was a year ago, but just wondering if you ended up taking off the starter or anything like that to get the pan off? Or did you get the pan to drop with a little wiggle room?
 

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we will see. doing all this rt now on a 04 .4.7. so far i cant get the oil pan off . ill try the box cutter thing in morning
 

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2004, WJ, overland ,,4.7 HO...welp! i did it. what a biitch it was.. separating the windage tray was not easy. Box cutter did nothing, The gasket was to hard from age .need a putty knife and tap it along to break the seal. had to remove front y pipe cut off with saws all. I tried just to seperate the y from exhaust system with come along and heated cherry red with a torch. it didn't budge! remove right side control arm to get to y pipe/manifold bolts. 'Doesn't leak a drop now!' also had a leaking oil sender unit. power washed bottom of engine and trans and transfer case , changing trans fluid next. you will need 2" Scotch Brite Surface Conditioning Discs Coarse blue, ..'brown' medium if your gasket was dried and hard as rock, my oil pan had some strange ripples in the one corner that was why it leaked, i smoothed them over with the disc knowing the gasket would seal a slight valley but not 6 or so ripples. also you will need new mopar non spin lock washers for your y pipe manifold bolts, they are off threads and can only be used once!!! i tried to reuse and ended up having to cut one of the bolts off with a dremell cut off wheel.!!! Get a magnet for your oil plug , found nice clump of metal dust on buttom of pan.
 

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