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Discussion Starter #1
Parking brake cable snapped at the junction near rear, $1200 quote for all cables/hardware, can't do that... Learning a new skill out of necessity. Could use a pointer or two. I've come this far at least...

Here's where I'm at: front seat and plastic floor cover removed, rear seat flipped backwards (front bolts removed), 2 out of 3 pedal bolts removed so far, I've essentially gained access to the portion of the cable that runs in the interior after about 2 hours. New cables and hardware/shoes on order. Now what?

Is there a particular order in terms of re-attaching pedal to footwell (last?) connecting the 3 cables to each other, connecting the cables to the hardware at the wheel, securing cables to vehicle, and/or anything else that needs to be done in a particular order? Also any tips on accessing/manipulating the cable "holders" under the vehicle?

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Discussion Starter #2
Also, in terms of parts: I shelled out $55 for a front mopar cable (dealer) and another $50 for 2 mopar rear cables (ebay). My thought it that sometimes aftermarket stuff isn't 100% perfect fitment and I need ease of installation, even a few mm off could be a problem with those cables. Maybe Im overthinking that.

When it comes to assembly, I found a mopar kit that is shoes/springs/lever but it's going to be almost $90 per side OUCH. I could probably do aftermarket for half that but anyone had documented success with fitment of aftermarket shoes/springs/lever?

Shell out for OEM on the rest or aftermarket is just fine?


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Here is an excerpt from the 2011 FSM with all the Parking Brake Pages. If you go to RockAuto you can get quality/reputable aftermarket versions for a lot less.
 

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Avoid removing the shoes of the Parking Brake. I think the FSM states you have to buy an entirely new backing plate with the parking brake shoes and parts pre-installed.
I had a seized up toggle lever on my parking brake, I removed the shoes to get the toggle lever out to unseize it, I spent 6 hours trying to get the shoes back on. They did not put enough space on the shoes to stretch the spring and catch them on the shoe. I even used the top quality drum brake tools and could not reattached the springs to the shoes. I finally just assembled the springs on the shoes off the backing plate and then muscled them over the hub, and that took about 3 dozen attempts before I was successful. So do everything you can to avoid removing the shoes.
 

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Well my confidence in completing this job just dropped after that last post!
Why? Did you already pull the shoes off?

Keep in mind, if you haven't pulled the shoes off yet, the short cables hooks to the toggle lever, so it "may" be possible to replace all the cables without pulling the shoes. You have to fish the end of the cable over the hook before connecting it to the backing plate.

More on the shoes, that I learned. The only problems are the upper/lower springs that pull the shoes together, the retaining springs, which they use spring clips for are no harder than others. What won't work is the traditional method of mounting the shoes with the mounting springs, positioning the toggle lever and adjuster between the shoes then connecting the springs that pull the shoes together, to one shoe and then stretching them to hook them on the other shoe. You won't be able to stretch the spring far to hook it, nor is there room to use other tools that stretch the spring and hook it.

What you have to do is hook the springs, that pull the shoes together, to the shoes before they are mounted and the adjuster, toggle lever is between them. You do that while it is behind the hub, not easy, but easier than muscling the shoes apart to fit over the hub. Then you have to pry the shoes apart to fit over the adjuster and toggle, then you can use the prong and spring clip to mount it.
 

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I use one of these to set the parking brake shoes in the rotor. For me it eliminates guess work and mistakes.
I've also read that if you don't have to remove the parking brake shoes on the WK2 don't touch them.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'm off to the dealer to collect my front cable today. Perhaps I see if with the new front cable (the equalizer was my fail point) the brakes hold/release, and then quit while I'm ahead, leaving everything else as is. Of course they haven't been exercised in 2 years now so that's a gamble.

Mongo that added detail will come in handy if those shoes do come off in the end. I'm at 140k and they have never been serviced, so it would be prudent to put new shoes and hardware in there but... Doing the job right isn't actually my priority with this vehicle at this point in it's life, just passing another inspection to hold me over.

Also, seems like I can replace the rear cables and lever without disconnecting the shoes from each other which seems to be the hardest part during reassembly if I understand.

In reading the FSM (makes my head spin a bit) I had no idea you needed to jam the foot pedal gears and leave the pedal in place.

My original plan was just to unbolt the pedal from the vehicle and see what was what, which I almost did but got hung up on the hardest to access bolt. Good thing I didn't finish that task, as it isn't part of the procedure... Thanks for that FSM link.

Trailhawk interesting tool, I will likely invest if I end up with new shoes on there.
 

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I haven't replaced the long cable with the equalizer on the end of a WK2, I did replace a similar pedal on a mini-van or XK, if I remember, there is a trick with the self-adjuster / cable tensioner, something about depressing the pedal slightly, and jamming an allen wrench in a point to hold it, that way you can get the cable in correctly and easily. Once the cable is connected, you pull the allen key it tensions the cable.

The rear shoe setup is pretty sturdy, and unless you've been engaging the brakes while driving, the shoes should not be worn out. I'm at 120k miles, and the only problem I had was my toggle lever corroded and seized, and all I had to do was pull it out, force it to move lube it with WD-40 and work it back and forth and it was as good as new. If I knew then what I know now, I would not have removed the shoes, I would have pulled the anchor clips, and turned the adjuster down to its smallest size, then pried the shoes back against the spring to pull the toggle lever out. and put it back in.

The problem you're going to have with reusing the short rear cables at each brake, is that they are rusted and seized to what remains of the equalizer that rusted through and fell apart. Start soaking them in penetrating oil twice a day, hoping they can be freed from the equalizer parts. You may have to tear the equalizer remnants apart with pliers and flathead screwdriver.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well progress made tonight and yet another roadblock. I was able to remove the trim panel to access the pedal lockout, and successfully jam the gears to reveal the top of the cable, but I am having one heck of a time getting that peg on the cable out of the slot on the pedal.

I've taken off the next bolt down on the cable as well so I have slack to work with, but at some point during all of this the peg sort of got crooked in the assembly and I can push it around a bit but not get it to slide out and detach from the pedal assembly.

Meanwhile I'm playing with fire because as I manhandle the assembly I know if that gear lockout fails I'm losing a fingertip while up there. Springs are dangerous and that one is loaded up.

Anyone have a similar struggle or any advice?

In the picture, "1" is crooked and not coming out of "3" and boy have I tried.

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Ok I'm going to answer my own question on this one and if anyone gets in the same position as me one day: remove the pedal assembly!!! This was not part of the FSM procedure but it was 100% necessary in my case. Three 13mm bolts, and I kind of dangled it from the electrical (I know that's not good) but I was able to easily get that cable end right out and the new one in, the reinstall the pedal assembly.

I spent so much time and discomfort on my back trying to unsuccessfully disconnect it up in the footwell. I had to quit and come back to it more than once and kept failing and coming out sore. Well, now I can move forward. On to the next roadblock.

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Thing of beauty: a front parking brake cable in place and the old one in the trash. I'm in for maybe 4 hours now?

Scrap the plan on reusing the old rear cables, as Mongo mentioned they're rust-welded to the bracket and disintegrated anyhow, I used a wire cutter to snip everything.

Current plan of action is to replace the rear cables and the rear levers (only $8 each from rockauto) without removing the shoes.
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Discussion Starter #13
Ok... I'm finally into the wheel. I did new calipers/pads/rotors only a few months ago so everything came off easy.

However, in looking at this now, I'm getting very skeptical about how in the WORLD that lever is going to come out and I'm going to be able to get a tool deep in there to squeeze the clips on the cable to release it.

Is this actually doable???

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Where do you live to get so much rust?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Between Philly and NYC. Typical amount of rust on a vehicle of this age here (road salt) and I usually go out driving snowy roads just for fun! I don't think the rust on this wk2 has hit critical yet but it is getting there.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Call me crazy, but I just spent $56 shipped on a specialty tool to release the rear brake cables at the wheel-end, as referenced in the FSM.

I am still waiting on my new levers to come in so I haven't actually attempted anything at the wheel yet, but just looking at this setup, it doesn't seem likely anything else in my toolbox would fit in there to release those parking brake cables at the wheel-side, with such limited access.

I usually enjoy buying new tools, but this one is so specific I can only justify it from the saving I get in doing this job myself (assuming I ultimately can).

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I had my rear shoes delaminate, I noticed when replacing the rear rotors and pads. Didnt want to open the can of works.
had new e-brake shoes and the hardware kit. My pal who is a tech did he job said it is a pain replacing them (e-brake shoes) since there is very little room behind the hub/bearing. He says over time rust gets under the linings on the e-brake shoes and they delaminate.

he cleaned everything when he had it apart and lubed up the pivot/fulcrum toggle lever and coated it with fluid film.

Question, which cable broke, do you have a picture or is it the one circled in yellow? If so did the strands just rust and snap or did the toggle lever seize?

just curious as to what and where did the cable snap, might go under and spray that area on mine.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
What snapped was the equalizer portion of the front cable that connects to the driver side rear cables. It is what is circled but here is a close-up of the piece that detached. Now... As to the reason for it ripping off the rest of the equalizer... Rust, age, and maybe the parking brake lever in the wheel was offering more resistance than it should have? Just a guess on that last one but that's why I aim to swap it in all this.
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