[IDoMy0wnRacing]

If you are thinking about supercharging your Grand Cherokee, there are a couple things to consider:

91 Octane (minimum) fuel is a must. So, there is the added cost for premium gasoline.
Fuel economy. I went from 20 MPG down to 18 MPGs.
AND then there is the $10,000-ish price tag.
ProCharger offer two systems. Tuner kit (No tune, fuel system parts, or PCM), and the Complete System which comes with everything needed to install and run…

Parts installed:
Included with the ‘Complete’ System:
ProCharger P-1X-H (P-1X-H upgraded item)
ProCharger Air-to-Air Inner Cooler
39.5 lbs Fuel Injectors
Windshield Washer reservoir (replaces the OEM)
Coolant Overflow reservoir (replaces the OEM)
HP Tuners Unlocked ECM (part of the Complete system)
ProCharger 2 Bar Tune (part of the Complete system)
*NGK Spark Plugs (LTR6IX (1 Step Colder)) (Highly recommended)
*MSD Coils
*Mishimoto Radiator
*Mishimoto 180-degree Thermostat
*Mishimoto Silicone Radiator hoses
*HP Tuners MPVI2 interface (additional tuning options)
*AutoMeter Ultra-Lite Gauges
Air/Fuel Ratio (AEM-4370)
Fuel Pressure (ATM 4371)
Boost/Vacuum (AEM 4301)
**Upgraded my gauge set
AEM Gauges
Air/Fuel Ratio (30-4110)
Fuel Pressure (30-4401)
Boost/Vacuum (30-4406)

Gauge Pod (ATM 5288 (it isn't my favorite, but it works. I am hoping to find an A-Pillar Triple Gauge Pod)).

** Parts that I had already installed:
Corsa Sport Cat-Back
AirLinks (to lower the ride a little bit, and AlfaOBD to fine turn the ride height that I was looking for).
1.5-inch Titan Wheel Spacers

What does it take to install a ProCharger System?

When the ProCharger System arrives, the first thing that you are going to want to do is an inventory. Make sure that you have everything that is supposed to come in the kit. I didn’t have any issues here.

The kit is going to come with an RTD Interface and RTD Flasher software to download the information from the stock (OEM) Power Control Module (PCM). I have a dedicated laptop computer for tuning my Jeep.

Install the included interface drivers and the RTD Flasher software.
Open the RTD Flasher program.
Click on the “Help” tab.
Click on the “About” option. This is going to look for and update the RTD Flasher software. Close the window when the update is complete, or No update found is displayed.
Click on the “Help” tab.
Click on the “MPVI2 Verification Code” tab. Write down the Serial Number and Verification Code. You will need this information when registering you RTD Interface. You can select the “MPVI2 Verification Code” tab while registering your device to ‘Copy and Paste’ the numbers.
Go to the HPTuners website to register your device (RTD Interface). Follow the prompts.
Click on the “Resync Interface” tab to update the interface. At Resync Complete, close the window.

WHAT you are going to have to do (the instructions could use a little help here).
I put the vehicle on a charger to keep the battery from getting weak during the read and Flash procedures.
Open the RTD Flasher program.
Connect the RTD Flasher to the vehicle and turn it to the Run position, DO NOT START.
Click on the icon that reads “Read Vehicle”.
Click on the “Read” button.
In the top Hardware: drop down, CHOOSE “GPEC2, 2018+ Dodge” (this isn’t in the instructions).
In the lower Hardware: drop down, CHOOSE “ZF8HP, Dodge” (this isn’t in the instructions).
Choose the “Read” button and follow the prompts (mine took 14 minutes to read the ECM and 6 minutes to read the TCM (glad I was on a charger)).
Save the calibration file so that it can be emailed to HPTuners (I bought my ProCharger through Joe at FastHemis.com, so I sent my files to Joe, and he sent it to HPTuners). HPTuners will build a new unlocked PCM for the ProCharger “Complete” system. (this isn’t in the instructions).
I called mine: Stock Calibration - 2020 Jeep Chand Cherokee Trailhawk 5.7L, V8.rtd
And send it to HPTuners. A couple days later I received my new Unlocked PCM.

** tech tip; When you get ready to install the ProCharger “Complete” System. Disconnect the battery, install the new unlocked PCM, reconnect the battery and read the calibration from this new unlocked PCM. Follow the instruction previously listed above EXCEPT read ONLY the ECM Hardware, DO NOT read the TCM’s information, leave it blank. You will send this information (calibration file) to ProCharger for a Modified, ProCharger, 2 Bar Calibration file that is going to be required to run the ProCharger on your engine. HPTuners needs the ECM and TCM to send you a new unlocked PCM. It is going t be loaded with the OEM Stock Calibration files. ProCharger does not make any modifications to the TCM, so that file is not needed. IF you happen to send ProCharger a complete read, ECM and TCM you will have to buy (four (4) additional Credits to flash your new unlocked PCM because of the TCM information. (this isn’t in the instructions).

Now, disconnect the battery and start the ProCharger installation… ProCharger provides some surprisingly good instructions for this process.

Pictures 1 – 3 are before pics:

Pictures 4 – 17 is the disassemble process (abbreviated)

… to be continued.

 

[IDoMy0wnRacing]

ProCharger on my 2020 Jeep Grand Cherokee Trailhawk, with a 5.7L Hemi – Continued…

Now that I have everything pretty much out-of-the-way, I get to start putting parts on.

Pictures 18 – 23 is installation process (abbreviated)

… to be continued.

 

[IDoMy0wnRacing]

ProCharger on my 2020 Jeep Grand Cherokee Trailhawk, with a 5.7L Hemi – Continued…

… I tend to want to play (put things together) more than stop and take pictures.

Pictures 24 I step colder spark plugs.

Pictures 25 - 27 MSD Coils, more spark.

Pictures 28 is hard to see, but there is an adapter that plugs in between the fuel line from the tank to the fuel rail that allows you to add a fuel pressure gauge without having to cut anything.
As a bonus, the fuel pressure adapter raised the fuel line up about a 1 and a half for additional clearance for the air filter later in the assembly process.

Pictures 29 – 31 is the installed ProCharger…

… to be continued.

 

[IDoMy0wnRacing]

ProCharger on my 2020 Jeep Grand Cherokee Trailhawk, with a 5.7L Hemi – Continued…

It is from here that I realized that I had poked a couple small holes in the radiator…

When I was either removing the radiator or installing the radiator I was getting hung up on the fan mount and/or the Air Conditioning Condenser lines causing the condenser mounts to poke a couple holes in the radiator with the upper mounts on the condenser. Of course, I didn’t notice until after the install and I was filling the cooling system with Antifreeze. -_-
*** tech tip; When you get ready to remove or install a radiator, place a piece of cardboard against the radiator core to protect it from the fan assembly and/or the A/C Condenser (for me, it was the A/C Condenser side that I damaged. The

Time for an upgrade:

Pictures 32 – 35 Mishimoto Aluminum Radiator; Increases core volume by 66% coolant capacity by 95%; 66% thicker core; 45% increase in fin surface area over stock radiator.
Win, win, win.

While I was at it, Mishimoto 180-degree Thermostat (no picture).

I must admit. The quality of the Mishimoto parts was impressive, starting with the packaging.

Pictures 36 – 46 is the install completed.

… to be continued.

 

[IDoMy0wnRacing]

ProCharger on my 2020 Jeep Grand Cherokee Trailhawk, with a 5.7L Hemi – Continued…

If you noticed on Pictures 40 and 41 a bit of tape on the radiator upper hose… If you don’t trim about an inch off of the hose at the radiator side, it will touch one of the ProCharger idler pullies when the Jeep gets to operating temperature. … Time to upgrade to the Mishimoto Silicone Radiator Hose kit (Pictures to follow).

Since the unlocked PCM and tune is an HPTuners setup, I pick up an HP Tuners MPVI2 interface (additional tuning options) as stated earlier.

The tune works and is safe, so I do not want to make any adjustment to what works well. BUT, I changed to thermostat from OEM 203-degrees to a cold running 180-degrees so a couple of things need to happen.

Cooling fans: The High-Speed Fan comes on at 223-degrees, the Low-Speed Fan comes on at 219-degrees. To take advantage of the lower operating temperature of the thermostat, I had to lower the starting temperatures of the cooling fans.

I used percentage to adjust my ‘On times’. 226 is 9% of 203 (fan vs thermostat temps) for the High-Speed fans and 219 is 7% of 203 for the Low-Speed fans. Add those percentages for a 180-degree thermostat, I set my fan speeds at 196 for the High-Speed Fan and 190-degrees for the Low-Speed Fan.

Because of the 180-degree thermostat, you WILL get an engine Diagnostic Trouble Code P0128, for Coolant Thermostat Temperature Below Regulating Temperature.

With the HP Tuner software, you can make changes to the Fan speeds and turn off witch codes are read by the PCM. So, I unchecked the check boxes for the P0128 code (there are two (2) boxes that can be checked or unchecked. One will identify a code and store it, the other, when a code is detected will to turn on the Engine Light). I personally don’t care of the thermostat ever gets stuck in the open position; I just don’t want it to overheat. lol

The other DTC that is stored but doesn’t set an Engine Light is a P1400 code that reads: Aftermarket Calibration Detected/Warrant Void. Yea, that doesn’t need to be seen when a scan tool is connected to the OBD connector, uncheck the box and that code gone also.

The other modification to the PCM that I was able to make with the HP Tuner software was to the Vehicle Top Speed. The top speed for the Trailhawk is 117 MPH (which happens to be the maximum speed for most All-Terrain Tires). My top speed is now set to a conservative 140 MPH (to match the maximum speed displayed by the speedometer).
What good is it to have a 140 mph speedometer if yo can't use it ALL.

Going to a Tuner will cost you between $400.00 and $600.00 just to make the simple changes that I was able to make on my own, depending on whom you call in your area.

I will post a couple more pictures after I install the new Radiator Hoses.

 

[Lightsout190]

I am curious as to way you didn't get the SRT if you were after more power and performance? For all the trouble and money going into supercharging the 5.7 Hemi wouldn't it have just been more worthwhile to get the SRT? When I bought my 2020 trailhawk with the Hemi I test drove both that and the SRT. I really liked both and it was a really tough choice for me, but what it came down to was this:

While the SRT was noticablly much more powerful and responsive then the trailhawk Hemi, I didn't like the suspension and how it handled bumps compared to the trailhawk. I live in an area where there are allot of bad roads and the SRT's rigid suspension really made you feel them, whereas the trailhawk's air suspension really handles bumps smoothly. Also, the front of the SRT was just a little too low for me as I would like the option to be able to do some light to moderate off-roading. And obviously the SRT can't do this. Factor in the extra money and the insurance cost it just wasn't worth it for me to go with the SRT even though I would have loved to have the extra power and performance. That being said, I am satisfied with the power of the 5.7 liter Hemi even though it does fee a little sluggish in the initial take-off.

 

[NinjaGrunt]

I am curious as to way you didn't get the SRT if you were after more power and performance? For all the trouble and money going into supercharging the 5.7 Hemi wouldn't it have just been more worthwhile to get the SRT? When I bought my 2020 trailhawk with the Hemi I test drove both that and the SRT. I really liked both and it was a really tough choice for me, but what it came down to was this:

While the SRT was noticablly much more powerful and responsive then the trailhawk Hemi, I didn't like the suspension and how it handled bumps compared to the trailhawk. I live in an area where there are allot of bad roads and the SRT's rigid suspension really made you feel them, whereas the trailhawk's air suspension really handles bumps smoothly. Also, the front of the SRT was just a little too low for me as I would like the option to be able to do some light to moderate off-roading. And obviously the SRT can't do this. Factor in the extra money and the insurance cost it just wasn't worth it for me to go with the SRT even though I would have loved to have the extra power and performance. That being said, I am satisfied with the power of the 5.7 liter Hemi even though it does fee a little sluggish in the initial take-off.

You may have just answered your question. Offroad capability may be important for the OP, hence supercharging the Trailhawk instead of getting an SRT.

 

[mikeynavy1]

Any video clips so we can see/hear it in action? Dyno'd yet?

 

[IDoMy0wnRacing]

I am curious as to way you didn't get the SRT...
While the SRT was noticablly much more powerful and responsive then the trailhawk Hemi, I didn't like the suspension and how it handled bumps compared to the trailhawk. I live in an area where there are allot of bad roads and the SRT's rigid suspension really made you feel them, whereas the trailhawk's air suspension really handles bumps smoothly. Also, the front of the SRT was just a little too low for me as I would like the option to be able to do some light to moderate off-roading. And obviously the SRT can't do this. Factor in the extra money and the insurance cost it just wasn't worth it for me to go with the SRT even though I would have loved to have the extra power and performance. That being said, I am satisfied with the power of the 5.7 liter Hemi even though it does fee a little sluggish in the initial take-off.

Yes, you summed it up perfectly.

Even after spending the money (the work I actually look forward too, I consider my self a car hobbyist) it was still 10 to 15k cheaper than buying an SRT (in my area) and I got to play.
I do not have the performance options of the SRT, but I did walk away with an additional 75 - 90 HP over the SRT, while retaining the comfort and ride quality of the Trailhawk's air ride suspension.

I live in the Sierra Nevada Mountains of California, where is snows. So having the offroad capability of the Trailhawk was the way to go for me.

Any video clips so we can see/hear it in action? Dyno'd yet?

Video, I can do that. Might take a couple days...
Dyno, one day. I want do want to know what the true gains are.

 

[Lightsout190]

OK makes sense, what you have done is very impressive. Reminds me of a quote that I believe Jack Roush once said which went something like, "It's more fun to put $50,000 into a $30,000 car then go out and buy a $50,000 car."

but I did walk away with an additional 75 - 90 HP over the SRT

So are you saying that your trailhawk puts out 550 or more HP. Do you know what it can do in the 0-60 time now? I believe stock it was about 6.6 seconds. I can't imagine doing 117 MPH in a vehicle that high off the ground let alone 140 MPH.

 

[CHeYeNNe71]

Looks like quite the job, but the smiles afterwards will be worth it.

 

[IDoMy0wnRacing]

1st video; walk around so that you can hear the Corsa Exhaust and the whistle of the ProCharger.

A couple revs, from the front you can hear the Blow-Off Valve working when I let off of the throttle. The ProCharger doesn't seem to make any noticeable noise under acceleration, but the Blow-Off Valve is working.
Under load or hard acceleration, no noise from the ProCharger until full boost when you can hear the Blow-Off Valve venting the excess pressure.

A couple revs from behind to hear the Corsa exhaust.

** the Jeep was at operating temperature before revving the engine, and the revs were limited to 4000 rpms.

ProCharger with Corsa Exhaust

 

[IDoMy0wnRacing]

So are you saying that your trailhawk puts out 550 or more HP. Do you know what it can do in the 0-60 time now? I believe stock it was about 6.6 seconds. I can't imagine doing 117 MPH in a vehicle that high off the ground let alone 140 MPH.

Yes, I should be right at 550 BHP, that should be close to 440 to 450 hp at the wheels @ 18% to 20% loss through the drivetrain.

In Sport mode, it doesn't set that hi at all... lol

 

[Lightsout190]

1st video; walk around so that you can hear the Corsa Exhaust and the whistle of the ProCharger.

A couple revs, from the front you can hear the Blow-Off Valve working when I let off of the throttle. The ProCharger doesn't seem to make any noticeable noise under acceleration, but the Blow-Off Valve is working.
Under load or hard acceleration, no noise from the ProCharger until full boost when you can hear the Blow-Off Valve venting the excess pressure.

A couple revs from behind to hear the Corsa exhaust.

** the Jeep was at operating temperature before revving the engine, and the revs were limited to 4000 rpms.

ProCharger with Corsa Exhaust

Nice, sounds like the Trackhawk.

 

[Lightsout190]

Yes, I should be right at 550 BHP, that should be close to 440 to 450 hp at the wheels @ 18% to 20% loss through the drivetrain.

In Sport mode, it doesn't set that hi at all... lol

That's true, it actually lowers as you hit a certain speed point.

 

[mattm10]

I am interested in doing this some day, however I don't see a CA emissions approved version for the 2020 5.7L online.

 

[IDoMy0wnRacing]

I finally got a chance to install the Mishimoto Silicone Radiator hoses.

I really do like the quality of the Mishimoto part, starting with their packaging.

I went with the red to match the MSD Coils. weg

 

[CHeYeNNe71]

I wish they made the hoses for the 3.6

 

[bigjimbo]

I can't imagine doing 117 MPH in a vehicle that high off the ground let alone 140 MPH.

I drive the autobahn regularly in our '19 Trailhawk. It has no issues other than the speed limiter at 118MPH and feels safe to me when it's pegged. Also FWIW - the European limiter is 140MPH.

I considered flashing the euro rom or removing it completely, but decided against it for warranty reasons.

 

[Lightsout190]

I drive the autobahn regularly in our '19 Trailhawk. It has no issues other than the speed limiter at 118MPH and feels safe to me when it's pegged. Also FWIW - the European limiter is 140MPH.

I considered flashing the euro rom or removing it completely, but decided against it for warranty reasons.

Are you living Germany? From what I remember there is no speed limit on most of the autobahn, but most people there are driving the smaller European cars. I remember a few years ago when I was there with my family we drove my uncles Alfa Romero from Italy to Germany doing about 200 kmh and other cars were just flying past us.