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2020 Jeep Grand Cherokee Trailhawk, ProCharged 5.7L Hemi
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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Hey thankyou , I’m currently installing same kit as you on my limited x I’m not sure if yours is about the same on touching with tubing
I was touching a little. You can loosen the screws and turn the charge pipe up just a bit to clear the frame/support bar.

I had to remove the ProCharger from the mounting plate to make the adjustment. but it is easy to do. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
Sweet ride. Super nice job, it looks like it came from the factory. I bet it really moves. The control module cover adds a nice touch. I added one to my 5.7 :)
You're going to want one of these also.

It is called a Close-Out Cover - Mopar (68137698AB)

OEM part for the SRT and the Trackhawk.

... this will clean up the space under the weather stripping where the OEM Air Box Inlet was in front of the ProCharger.


234398
 

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I want to be you.

Wait, that's wierd.
I didn't know it but I seem to be working towards becoming another you. I'm Canadian but trying to move south to TX or CA, bought the identical car (white, really identical, but my VIN has 666 in it 😳 ) and I found your posts because I want to procharge it! So strange...

If your not too creeped out... before your other alterations, most close to just the procharger alone, how was drivability? I did read the whole post but wanted to know if you have any comments to expect. I've seen other builds on Challengers and those owners seem to think it's like factory. Do you think that? Did milage suffer much? I'm assuming you had to delete MDS. Finally, did you consider a RIPP supercharger?
Thanks in advance for your time!
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
I want to be you.

Wait, that's wierd...
LMAO, it isn’t easy being me. lol :ROFLMAO:

California has a lot of rules governing what you can and can’t do with your newer vehicles.

Getting parts is even hard. A lot of companies won’t even ship to California because of our emission laws. It is so frustrating trying to get aftermarket parts sometimes…
... and then there's the annual emissions inspection (depending on where in California you live).

California can be expensive compared to, let’s say, Texas. I lived in Texas in the late 1980’s. It was nice paying only $11.00 a month for liability insurance, registration was like $36.00 a year, granted, the car was an 8 year old Chevy, and it was the 80’s.

Gas, depending on where you live in California is nearing $5.00 a gallon (for Super, and that is only 91 octane, (in my area)) (gas is much cheaper in Texas). The registration for my 2020 Jeep Grand Cherokee Trailhawk, 5.7 Hemi in California is a little over $600.00 a year ($650.00+ for the wife's 2018 Ram 1500, 5.7 Hemi).

IF the Jeep was completely stock (no cat-back exhaust system at the time), I believe yes. Just like it should have come from the factory (power and performance wise, for a 5.7 Hemi). Mileage, I lost about 4 miles per gallon. I was getting, on average 20 – 21 MPG on the cheap stuff (87 octane). Now I am getting 17 – 18 on 91 octane. BUT, I now have 175-ish more horse power!

No, the MDS has not been deleted. I just don’t run in Economy Mode. To do a proper MDS delete, the lifters have to be replaced (and the MDS solenoids removed and replaced with plugs, and the MDS has to be turned off in the tune (turning off the MDS in the tune is the easy part)). But, the heads have to be removed to replace the lifters, so I am not going to make that modification until/unless I have to. I am trying to say out of the engine (strictly bolt-ons).

I am waiting on a few more parts to come in before I spend the money on a tune made specific for the modifications that I have made on my Jeep. I would LOVE to see 450 HP at the wheels and 19 – 20 MPG with just bolt-ons.

I did look at RIPP. They don’t have a kit for the 2015 and newer Grand Cherokee with a 5.7 Hemi. I didn’t have a warm and fuzzy with their tune, I heard/read a lot of mixed reviews. RIPP highly recommends that the Jeep be dyno tuned after the install. I have to agree, to get the most out of what you have, it should be tuned. ProCharger does a really good job with their Complete Kit for drivability right out of the box, Per Se.

... sorry, I got a little long winded. :)
 

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Thanks for being long winded. Information appreciated. I think I'll try to find the procharger near me, or someone that can work on the tune in case of issues. Your experience and research has helped me a lot as I'm pretty OCD about these things. Easier to do something that's already been done (and it worked well) than to be a trailblazer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Nice work! What made you decide on that setup?
I have always like the idea of supercharging. I wanted something that was bolt-on and proven reliable.
ProCharger seem to fit the bill. AND, they are C.A.R.B. compliant for California (-ish).

It really was a relatively simple install, and can be removed within a few hours, if necessary.
 

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I saw your write up on your header install also. Too bad you live in Cali..I would love to hear what your ride sounds like in person. Great work!
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
I got my procharger installed and was wondering what temperature you changed your cooling fans to come on at?
Don't change the fan speeds because you added a Procharger. Only if you installed a cooler thermostat.

My thermostat is a 180 degree.
Low Speed Fan = changed to 196 degrees
Medium Fan Speed = is NOT used, do not change it. Changing the value here could cause the fan to run unnecessarily (premature wear).
High Speed Fan = 203 degrees

Even with the 180 degree thermostat, my jeep run at 185 degrees all day (even if I take out the thermostat, it runs at 185 degrees...?).

Because of the 180-degree thermostat, you WILL get an engine Diagnostic Trouble Code P0128, for Coolant Thermostat Temperature Below Regulating Temperature.

With the HP Tuner software, you can make changes to the Fan speeds and turn off witch codes are read by the PCM. So, I unchecked the check boxes for the P0128 code (there are two (2) boxes that can be checked or unchecked. One will identify a code and store it, the other, when a code is detected will to turn on the Engine Light). I personally don’t care of the thermostat ever gets stuck in the open position; I just don’t want it to overheat. lol

The other DTC that is stored but doesn’t set an Engine Light is a P1400 code that reads: Aftermarket Calibration Detected/Warrant Void. Yea, that doesn’t need to be seen when a scan tool is connected to the OBD connector, uncheck the box and that code gone also.
 

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Very impressed with you doing your own install and doing it outside to boot! Great Job.

I have a 2017 Trailhawk. Back in 2017 I was putting a Procharger on a friends Challenger and called Procharger on a few questions I had and mentioned to them I had the same 5.7 Hemi in my Jeep that he had in his challenger. They asked what year it was and then asked me if I wanted to use mine as a beta vehicle for them. Apparently they had not installed one on a newer Grand Cherokee with the electric steering yet and wanted mine so they could design all the new mounting plates... I agreed and off I went to Kansas City to drop it off. I was able to tour their facility and see everything that goes into making a supercharger. I'm an Engineer and have been involved with automotive parts manufacturing for many years along with programming and running CNC machines so it was a real joy to see their top-notch operation.
It took several weeks for them to redesign the components and complete the install. They sent me pictures on the progress and kept me informed as to what was going on. They also used mine to write some of the instructions for the 2017+ installs.

Since the Procharger I have changed the differentials and put in a new front and rear out of an SRT. Everything bolted right up. Same electronic locker… Went from the stock 3.09 to a 3.7 gear. Boy what a difference. Put a set of factory SRT wheels on. Added a catch can. Already had the Diablo Sports Trinity programmer which is really nice to be able to monitor and data log. Procharger Dyno tested it and did the original tune. I was only seeing around 6psi of boost so I called Procharger and they sent me a smaller pulley. After that I data logged it and sent the info to Hemifever for a custom tune. I also removed the suitcase muffler and put in a couple of 4” MagnaFlow mufflers. Next I would like to have it put back on the dyno and fine-tuned.

I’ve lined up against 2 different SRT Grand Cherokee’s now and beat both of them. For me it worked out great being a beta vehicle as the cost was really down. Myself I’ve installed 2 Prochargers now, one on that Challenger and one on a 2013 Chevy pickup with the 5.3L. The Challenger now has around 165,000 miles, so over 100,000 with the Procharger and still running strong and the Chevy runs really well as it is set to 8psi boost. I had the install done at around 3,600 miles and now just rolled over 12,000. It is kind of a garage queen.

Keep up the great work and please post your dyno numbers once you get that far. I do have some questions on how you ran your wiring to your gauges and if you ever found a better pillar mount? I think it would be nice to have the O2, fuel pressure and boost gauges on the pillar vs. the Diablo display.
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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Thanks for sharing, I love it!!!

I would really like to do the SRT differentials. 3.7 gearing would be a real kick in the butt, that and with this being a Trailhawk, the lower gearing would be more beneficial.

The o2 for the wideband is installed in the right collector just above the oem o2 sensor. the wire run across the back of the engine (over the bellhousing) and through the external fire wall behind the air filter (the wires for all three gauges run through here), then run over towards the brake booster to an oval grommet just under the booster. easily accessible from inside above the throttle pedal.

After a full 10 months of waiting, my gauge pod came in from Ortiz Custom Pods. The reason for the delay was the 2011 to 2019 are different/change in 2015 with "A"-Pillar air bags (and COVID as an excuse for material not being shipped). There prices have gone up by $80.00 since I purchased.

I am using the HP Tuners software and currently doing remote tuning with Dusterhoff Tuning. Once complete I do plan on hitting the dyno, just to see the numbers.

Do you want to feel another kick in the pants? Long Tube Headers. WOW, In both sound and feel, what a difference.
I went with the 1-3/4" American Racing Headers, Long Tube, NO regrets.

I would like to know which oil catch can you are using, where you picked it up from?
How did you do on the dyno?

This is where the wires run through the outer fire wall. Just below the power booster hose is the vacuum/boost sensor, just under the air filter I have an adapter connected to the fuel feed line with the fuel pressure sensor, and all three sensor wire run through the firewall together.

Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Bumper



With the "A"-Pillar trim panel removed, there is enough of a gap to feed the gauge wires through without any cutting or drilling required.
Car Vehicle Plant Speedometer Trip computer


The Demon Hood (in full Carbon Fiber) is my latest addition (There prices have also gone up, by $400.00 since purchased). :oops:

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Thanks for the info on the gauge install. Looks really good. When I installed the Procharger on the Chevy truck I did the 3 gauge pillar mount on that and it turned out great. Nice to have the AFR and fuel pressure in your site all the times.
Purchased the catch can from Billet Technology.
Home page: Billet Technology | Modern Mopar Billet Accesories
Catch can: Billet Technology Oil Catch Can For 2011-2021 5.7L 6.4L Jeep Grand Cherokee and Durango. The can came with a bracket that mounts it to the ECU but with the Procharger the intake hose is right in the way so I mounted it up by the firewall. Easy to empty and away from any major heat.
What intake are you running and did you notice any real increase from it? I've been looking at the Holley Sniper intake and that's what yours looks like? Holley Sniper EFI 837251 Sniper EFI Sheet Metal Fabricated Intake Manifold - Gen III Hemi
I was also looking at headers. Being from the old school of power (carb, intake, headers, gears, cam and shift kit) it is always one of the first things I think about but I can't believe how much they cost these days and with forced induction didn't know how much I would gain in power. Sound like you are very happy with them. How much of a pain was it to put them on?
Procharger showed 420hp at the wheels. A lot of loss through the drivetrain. They were telling me 28% loss but I have a hard time thinking it's that high. It does have the low lock transfer case in the mix. With the advertised horsepower gain of 160+ and stock being 360 (which is low from what I've seen) it should be making 520hp min. As you know the Trailhawks are heavy at round 5,400 pounds. Diablo computer shows 12.7 @ 108mph in the 1/4.
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
I like where you mounted your catch can. I picked up a generic piece from Amazon, now that I know it works it might be time to pick up a quality part. Because the Holley Sniper Intake Manifold does not have the provisions for a PVC valve, I mounted my catch can off of the breather port for the crank case.

It would be hard to give an honest answer for the feel for just the manifold. When I did the manifold I also did the Long tube Headers, 92mm throttle body (Hell Cat) and 600cc injectors (Hell Cat).
I figured since I was going to go with a more personalized tune, might as well do it only once.

The Long Tube Headers advertise 30 hp gain, and 40 hp with a tune. If you saw the restriction in the oem, log style manifolds, you would believe the numbers.
There is a baffle in the oem manifolds to direct the exhaust flow in the correct direction (down stream). It reduces the at flange opening close to 50%.
There are a few pictures here.

I have the Chief Products under armor, Rocky-Road Outfitters Rock Sliders, and a few other add-ons. With driver (I weight in at a buck 65), my Trailhawk is at 6020 pounds.

I would like to see 450 hp at the wheels, but I have been told that I am reaching for the stars... lol. We will see.

With the Holley Manifold you will need a set of LS1 to LS2 Fuel Injector Spacer Adapters, if you want to run MOPAR Fuel Injectors. I picked mine up at MichiganMotorsports.com.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
I forgot to mention;
The Header install wasn't too bad. It can be done in a full day, and as you noted earlier, I did it on the ground with jack stands. I took my time and played along the way and used my whole weekend.

An abbreviated synopses;

Disconnect the battery,
The Fuse Box (Power Distribution module, or what ever they are calling it these days) has to be moved out of the way to have access to the exhaust manifold bolts,
Remove the air filter assembly (the ProCharger can stay),
The facia comes off to remove front skid plates (chief Products),
Remove the sump and transfer (and transmission if you have one) skid plates,
Remove the front drive shaft,
Remove the catalytic converters and down pipes,
Remove the exhaust manifolds.

With the 1-3/4 inch headers there wasn't any requirement to lift or raise the engine, the headers went right in.

A few more details noted in the link to the pictures in the previous post.
 

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I really like everything you have done and betting you are at that 450whp number. Better intake, long tube headers, exhaust, throttle body... with an aggressive tune I'm sure you are there. I noticed a good .5 second 0-60 time reduction with the Hemifever tune and PCM update from Diablo. Trans shifts way better in sport mode and doesn't dwell nearly and long now so faster means more horsepower so I'm a good bit over 420whp now so you should beat that.
Just watching an episode of engine masters about blower cams. Should be interesting. Fact of fiction, we will see. Attached a couple of pictures of my 1970 440 4-speed Cuda. Built the motor myself. 625hp NA. I put in 4:30 gears and run drag radials. It's a lot of fun!
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I've heard talk about the P1400 code coming up. I have had that issue but only when I try to manually shift and go over 5,500 rpm's. It goes into limp mode and I have to shut the motor down and then start it back up and everything is fine. I can clear the code through the Diablo tuner.
Looks to be a EGR pressure issue. When I data log it shifts right at 5,500 and it never has that problem leaving it in auto shift.
Have you ever had that happen?
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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
I've heard talk about the P1400 code coming up. I have had that issue but only when I try to manually shift and go over 5,500 rpm's. It goes into limp mode and I have to shut the motor down and then start it back up and everything is fine. I can clear the code through the Diablo tuner.
Looks to be a EGR pressure issue. When I data log it shifts right at 5,500 and it never has that problem leaving it in auto shift.
Have you ever had that happen?
I haven't seen that description for a P1400 code before.

HP Tuners reads P1400 as "Aftermarket Calibration Detected" (Google search can confirm).

The P1400 will stay in the system even after clearing the codes.

As an example, in auto mode the Jeep will shift at (for example) 5100 RPM's, by the time it actually completes the shift, you are at 5500 RPM's. In manual mode, when you shift at 5500 RPM's the Jeep doesn't complete the shift until 6200-ish RPM's. This can typically happen in the lower gears, i.e. 1>2, or even the 2>3 shifts.

I had a similar incident happen when I reved higher than I should have and bounced off of the transmissions rev limiter. The only reason I know this is because I was data logging at the time.

Something else to consider, WK2 (Hemi engines) doesn't even have an EGR. :oops:

P1400 is considered "Hidden Code". It can be turned off with HP Tuners, I don't know anything about Diablo tuners.
 

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When it happens to me I have went above 5,500 RPM's with manual shifting. It is between the 1-2 shift. The engine light comes on, a bell starts to ring and it goes into limp mode. The center of the dash shows something like check 4 wheel drive system or all wheel drive system. Next time it happens I need to take a picture of what the dash says. Happens at the most opportune time and I need to pull to the side of the road, shut it down and restart to disable limp mode in it and keep going. Engine light comes back on until x number of starts or I clear the code with the tuner.
Does yours go into limp mode?
Like you said it is like the transmission has a Rev limit.
The Diabo PMC tune really makes the transmission shift much better with almost instant drop in RPM's.
When uploading an ECU tune it asks if you want to overwrite the factory PMC for the Diabo tune and I do so. It doesn't jump up in rev's between gear changes.
Thanks again for sharing any of your experiences!
 
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