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Discussion Starter · #81 ·
... With that being said you are going to be in the same situation that Ed and I have had with the trans RPM limit.
I'm going to have to pull the trigger and get the HP Tuners software and reprogram the limit as it really sucks it goes into limp mode. Maybe you can get Procharger to address it or Diablo.
On a side note, I was able to adjust the shift points of 1>2, 2>3 so that I am not bouncing off of the rev limiters anymore. :)

To get more power, the engines rev limit was raised to 6400 rpms. By the time the transmission saw 6400 rpms and completed the shift, it was hitting 6700 rpms (which was the transmission rev limiter) o_O

So now my 1>2 shift is at 6100 rpms, and my 2>3 shift is at 6000 rpms. Those were the only two gears that I was having an issue with.

I pulled the trigger on a set of SRT differentials for the 3.70 gear ratios (I am currently waiting on back order from the dealer for the rear diff.). Depending on how much harder it pulls, I might have to fine tune the transmission's shift points again. :D
 

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2017 Jeep Grand Cherokee TrailHawk 5.7L HEMI soon to be procharged!! Just waiting on the mail man!!
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so it sounds like if you keep it conservative with the procharger tune im gonna be okay for a while until i get the itch and need more power and start chasing numbers!!
 

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Just so you know, the trinity will show you boost and highest boost/lowest vacuum readings in real time per the 2bar MAP sensor that you will need to install for the procharger.
so will i need to purchase the aem psig boost sending units and run the diablo eas sensor input wires from the sender to the trinity? or can i save the money on the senders and get the readout like your saying from the 2 bar map sensor, will i be able to get that info sent just through the obd-II hook up for the trinity or will i have to run the sensor input wires to the map sensor?
 

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One note to the Procharger tune, it will still go into limp mode if you if you manually shift and I had it happen a couple of times from a low speed roll when it dropped to first gear automatically. Contacted Procharger and Diablo and neither of them were helpful due to the code that was coming up on the Diablo controller as it did not make sense to them or to me, picture attached.
I agree if you stick with the Procharger supplied tune you will be more then happy. This is my third Procharger experience of owning or installing. One I installed on a buddies 5.7 Challenger has over 150k on it now without issues so that speaks to the durability with regular maintenance. As I said the trans shift firmness is greatly improved with the Diablo TCM tune and I don't see the lag in shift time as Ed has described. I can take a snip of my data log and show the time and rpm it shows. I'm the old school "put a shift kit in everything" guy LOL, and I think their tune is about a close to that as possible without actually doing one. I believe if the trans clutches are slipping that causes heat and wear which neither is good. Others are going to disagree and say it is not factory and it will hurt the trans but Diablo has come up with a happy medium. Sport mode it shifts much better better and standard is barely changes.
 

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so will i need to purchase the aem psig boost sending units and run the diablo eas sensor input wires from the sender to the trinity? or can i save the money on the senders and get the readout like your saying from the 2 bar map sensor, will i be able to get that info sent just through the obd-II hook up for the trinity or will i have to run the sensor input wires to the map sensor?
The Trinity will already see the boost from the supplied Procharger MAP sensor you install.
 

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On a side note, I was able to adjust the shift points of 1>2, 2>3 so that I am not bouncing off of the rev limiters anymore. :)

To get more power, the engines rev limit was raised to 6400 rpms. By the time the transmission saw 6400 rpms and completed the shift, it was hitting 6700 rpms (which was the transmission rev limiter) o_O

So now my 1>2 shift is at 6100 rpms, and my 2>3 shift is at 6000 rpms. Those were the only two gears that I was having an issue with.

I pulled the trigger on a set of SRT differentials for the 3.70 gear ratios (I am currently waiting on back order from the dealer for the rear diff.). Depending on how much harder it pulls, I might have to fine tune the transmission's shift points again. :D
You will not be disappointed with the gear change, big difference!!! Best deal is no reprogramming, speedo and all was right on after I did my install. :D. Really happy for you, you are going to love it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #87 ·
P1400 EGR Low Circuit Input.
That code is incorrect for Mopar. The 5.7 Hemi doesn't have an EGR.

P1400 should read Aftermarket Calibration Detected. Which would be correct for having a Procharger tune.

Jeep

Jeep DTC P1400

Make: Jeep Code: P1400 Definition: Aftermarket Calibration Detected/Warranty Coverage Confirmation Required.

Description: This DTC was created as a informational Fault. The purpose of this DTC is to inform the technician that the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) has been replaced or updated with software that does not meet the original factory specifications.

Cause:
  • PCM HAS BEEN PROGRAMMED WITH UNAUTHORIZED OR AFTERMARKET SOFTWARE
  • AN AUTHORIZED MOPAR OR SCAT PAK POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (PCM) HAS BEEN INSTALLED
 

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The Trinity will already see the boost from the supplied Procharger MAP sensor you install.
Awesome so more money saved!!
Are you monitoring fuel pressure as well with the trinity? Will that be plug and play also through the obd to the trinity or will i need a fuel pressure sending unit to get those values into trinity?.
If so ill be doing the same thing Ed did with the oem fuel line at the rail with a spliter at the rail with a sender attached to the spliter to send the info unless trinity does all that already through obd.

Thanks for all the info so far you and Ed have been a huge help with the stuff they dont explain.
 

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Discussion Starter · #90 ·
Are the 3.70 SRT gears essentially plug and play then? Can these be thrown in the Pentastar as well?
No, The axles in the Pentastar are too small. The Pentastar come with 3.45:1 gears and 195mm rear axles.

All trim levels (4WD/AWD) come with 195mm front differentials.

My Trailhawk came with 230mm rear axles and eLSD, same as the SRT.

My Trailhawk has 3.09 gears (hence the desire to change the gearing).

I do not know about re-gearing the differentials, I am taking the easy way out be replacing the differential assemblies (which for me is Plug-n-Play).
 

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That code is incorrect for Mopar. The 5.7 Hemi doesn't have an EGR.

P1400 should read Aftermarket Calibration Detected. Which would be correct for having a Procharger tune.

Jeep

Jeep DTC P1400

Make: Jeep Code: P1400 Definition: Aftermarket Calibration Detected/Warranty Coverage Confirmation Required.

Description: This DTC was created as a informational Fault. The purpose of this DTC is to inform the technician that the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) has been replaced or updated with software that does not meet the original factory specifications.

Cause:
  • PCM HAS BEEN PROGRAMMED WITH UNAUTHORIZED OR AFTERMARKET SOFTWARE
  • AN AUTHORIZED MOPAR OR SCAT PAK POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (PCM) HAS BEEN INSTALLED
Just wanted to say that is the code that comes up on the Diablo screen. It was never right. I sent Procharger. Hemifever and Diablo that screen and nobody figured it out, but you did and I really appreciate that!:D
 

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As described the gear change in the Grand Cherokee is is a plug and play as far as parts. It took a buddy and I about 6 hours with a lunch break. Did it on a hoist. I'm sure it might be possible to change them on the ground if you can jack it that high but you have to swing the lower control arms out of the way to get the axles out and you need some good clearance to remove and replace the center housing (pigs) that the gears are in. Great performance gain! Basic the same idea behind the Scat Pack setup, better gearing but nobody seams to note that anywhere.
 

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Awesome so more money saved!!
Are you monitoring fuel pressure as well with the trinity? Will that be plug and play also through the obd to the trinity or will i need a fuel pressure sending unit to get those values into trinity?.
If so ill be doing the same thing Ed did with the oem fuel line at the rail with a spliter at the rail with a sender attached to the spliter to send the info unless trinity does all that already through obd.

Thanks for all the info so far you and Ed have been a huge help with the stuff they dont explain.
I have not looked far enough into the fuel pressure data logging but I will. Worst case, you just need to get a 0-5v fuel pressure sending unit and get the EAS universal sensor input... from Diablo so you can plug into it without any external gauges and read it /data log it direct. That is, if you feel you need it.
 

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so will i need to purchase the aem psig boost sending units and run the diablo eas sensor input wires from the sender to the trinity? or can i save the money on the senders and get the readout like your saying from the 2 bar map sensor, will i be able to get that info sent just through the obd-II hook up for the trinity or will i have to run the sensor input wires to the map sensor?
Did Santa come to your door with a Procharger package yet?
 

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Did Santa come to your door with a Procharger package yet?
I called Joe today and he said any day now he should be getting tracking for me.. So hopefully in the next few days!!!

On a positive note got the trinity Lcd all worked out, so i have gauges and data logging capabilities now. So that part is DONE! welded a bung in the downpipe and now have solid AFR readings, and got my fuel pressure sensor hooked up as well.

What pressures are we looking for at stock before procharging? I put my pressure sensor in exactly how you did yours, i think the only difference is i had to run a 150 aem psig and im running it to the trinity. Its all they had at the moment.

As soon as i get my procharger ill be letting you guys know!!!
 

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I called Joe today and he said any day now he should be getting tracking for me.. So hopefully in the next few days!!!

On a positive note got the trinity Lcd all worked out, so i have gauges and data logging capabilities now. So that part is DONE! welded a bung in the downpipe and now have solid AFR readings, and got my fuel pressure sensor hooked up as well.

What pressures are we looking for at stock before procharging? I put my pressure sensor in exactly how you did yours, i think the only difference is i had to run a 150 aem psig and im running it to the trinity. Its all they had at the moment.

As soon as i get my procharger ill be letting you guys know!!!
Toggles,

Any word on the Christmas present yet?
What fuel pressure and O2 readings are you currently seeing? Really nice that you have data logging on all that now plus much more. I can send you a list of PID's for timing... that will be good to log through the trinity for review if you want.

Happy New Year to both of you guys!
 

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Yup finally got it!! On the 28th. I installed it over the new years holiday only took me 15 hours.. Would have been less but i had some issues with getting the front bumper/grill to clear the intercooler.. Ended up having to remove 1 radiator support bar completely to get it to sit far enough back to clear. Other than that i just broke 500 miles today so its time for the first oil change. Im noticing im not getting more than 4psi read out on the trinity from the map/baro (boost pid) also feels like im not getting more than 4 psi in power. Definitely has some balls though when you get on it.. The procharger tune feels very high rpm tailored. And rich as hell.

Trinity is reading air fuel pretty stoich for the most part at idle, when i get on it, it drops down into the 11.5-13 range. Then when you let off it jumps up to max reading (normal on that jump)
Fuel mileage isnt much different.. I think i already had a heavy foot so was used to about 14.8-15.2 a gallon. Seeing about 15 now. So its not killing my pocket yet 😂

still feel like there can be more power somewhere... Is there a way to test for boost leaks? The kit came with a mix of t bar clamps and worm drive clamps but not enough t bars for all silicone hoses. Procharger said that what i received was correct. Also my Rotomold intake and filter on the procharger side up in the firewall area had major clearance issues. I still need to get around to cutting the tube down so theres less tube inside the filter.

Anything i missed? Been talking with Ed as well. He has more upgrades in the areas im having issues. Fuel line at rail hitting air filter. Hes running an efi sniper so his intake and rails are different now.
I was monitoring fuel pressure before the install but cant now since my adapter keeps me from being able to run the air filter. So working on that. It definitely dosent feel like its starving for fuel. But my temps do rise from 199 to about 214-220 when i get on it. On the freeway they drop back down pretty quick but on the road they drop down to about 214 and hover. I feel like i may still have some air in the rad. Not sure how ive burped it, opened the set screw at therm. Let it heat cycle with cap off. All that. Also im going to prob pop in a 180 therm and ask procharger if they can lower my fan kick on temps when they revise my tune after some data logging.

Im happy with it.. Just feel like there could be some more power hiding somewhere.

Any pids youd share would be great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #99 ·
... Ended up having to remove 1 radiator support bar completely to get it to sit far enough back to clear.
I am stoked for you ! ! ! Glad you got it running.

I removed both radiator support bars and pushed the intercooler back as far as I could get it.

I'm right at 16.5 MPGs combined. (y)

11.5-13 range on the AFR is about perfect for a safe boosted tune.

The stock thermostat is 203 degrees, a 180 T-stat would help a bunch. resetting the fans would be a compliment.
With a 180 t-stat I am running 185 degrees all day long, low 200s if I play hard.

Prochargers favors RPMs, if you were to change the shift point from 5700 RPMs to 6000 RPMs you would see every bit of 7.5 PSI.

If you could muster up the funds, Long Tube Headers will make a noticeable difference (talking 40 hp (AND THE SOUND...)). but then of course, you will be wanting a custom tune to take full advantage of your upgrades... 🤑
 

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Below is how I added a log file to get a custom tune (see Part one). Now I can log a run and look at it through the Diablo Data Viewer. Yours may be a little different as it is a newer model.

Log about 10 minutes of part throttle simple stop light to stop light driving and a 0 to 75 mph full throttle run. This can be done in one log. You will need the dataviewer application off Diablo's download area to pull the log up to save

pids (gauges) to add:

Cooling : Engine Coolant Temp (ECT)
Ignition : actual spark cyl 1 (or spk adv 1)
Miscellaneous : P-Ratio Map, Desired FA Cyl1, Open Loop FA (AFR), 1/1 Short Term ADAP % , 2/1 Short Term ADAP % , 1/1 Long Term ADAP % , 2/1 Long Term ADAP %
Intake : Air Charge (mg/charge) , Intake Air Temp Deg (F)
Misfire (or knock control) : KNK ST Retard, KNK LT Retard, knock sensor 1 and 2 volts
Performance : Vehicle speed and engine rpm

You may want to add your O2 and Fuel pressure also.


Part one
1. Start your engine and let it idle, plug in your T1000 and wait for it to boot up and go to the main screen.
2. Select the "Logging" tab, select "Create A New Log",
3. Select Edit and Add a new gauge. Add in the pids (gauges) listed above. If you choose small layout pids, after you get 4 on a page, add a new page then add more pids.
4. Select "RECORD", select "Record A New Log", at this time you need to perform the specified driving requirements listed above.
5. When you have completed the driving requirements you will select "STOP" in the recording session, then select to save the log and name it (I suggest something like LOG_# for future logs).
6. You can then play back the log and then exit. It will ask if you want to save the layout and you can do so and give it a name.
7. Exit your T1000 to the main page, turn off your engine, unplug your tuner, and transport your device to your computer.

Part two
1. After you have downloaded the Data Viewer software from DiabloSport's web site you should connect your T1000 to your computer via a standard USB to mini USB cable and wait for the tuner to boot up.
2. Plug the tuner up to your pc and let it get recognized.
3. Now open your Data Viewer program, (on version 3.3) close the compatibility popup to see the middle of the screen that says "Acquiring Tool Information...", your tuner will say "This Tool Is Under Remote Control...", after its finished connecting the screen will say "No Connected Vehicle".
4. After they are connected you will be able to select "File", "Download Log Data", a popup will say "Download a Log File for Playback?" select Yes, another popup will let you highlight and chose your saved Log you named on your T1000, hit Yes.
5. It will then extract the log data from your tuner, after it's finished your "PID's" tab will be expanded in the view.
6. You don't have to select any of the pids, they are already in the log, select "File", "Save as", save the file somewhere accessible like your desktop, close the program and unplug your tuner.

This a screen shot of a log file. You can see mine is shifting at 5,664 rpm's and is producing 146.4 kPa (6.7psi) boost max.

Rectangle Slope Font Parallel Technology
 
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