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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looks like Arnott are making replacement air struts for front using Eibach shocks.
https://www.arnottindustries.com/pr...-grand-cherokee-wk2-w-quadra-lift-w-w-o-sport

I already know that many people are replacing the rear with Bilstein shocks or using strut spacers.

I am currently running a Rough Country levelling spacers at the front and levelling links to bring it up to level at the front. Really helps reduce the topping out of the front suspension when in OR1 and OR2 heights.

What suspension mods for Quadralift suspension are others running?



33 inch (275/70R18) tyres, OEM rims, no spacers.

 

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I didn't think the RC spacers worked with the QL? How much lift did that provide?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
They work just fine, they don't provide any lift on their own, they work with the links to provide additional down travel and limit up travel, it's supposed to be 2 inches. It won't rub when on the bump stops now.
 

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will this help with the banging in ql2? i've hated that since i bought it - first time i went offroad climbing rocks in the gila NF I thought i'd seriously fubar'd my new jeep (had about 1000 miles at the time). got home and googled the noise - at least it's normal - but even 3 years later i cringe everytime
 

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Cowpig, if you hit the stops, you'll hear the noise. It sounds like from post #3 there is some kind of limiting to travel at the top, but it's not clear to me what that might be.
 

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I hope I'm wrong, but I can't find any stops on the suspension, which leads me to believe the stops are the shocks/struts bottoming/topping out. There is a bump snubber that goes over the shaft for the front strut/shock, but that would only assist in bottoming out Jounce. And even if the shock/strut is designed to act as a bump stop, hitting the stops often enough or hard enough and you'll damage the valving.
 

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indydof - can you share a URL to the Rough Country leveling kit you are using with your QL suspension? Is it this one?:

https://www.roughcountry.com/jeep-s...html?find=2015-jeep-grand-cherokee-4wd-380257

Based on the adjustments you made using links with the spacers, I wonder if I would be able to do the same with my Llams ride height controller and front/rear spacers. I think there is a way to custom program the Llams.

Actually, I may be able to do the exact same thing you did with links up front on with my Llams controller. I could then permanently run Off Road 2 using the Llams and adjust the front with the spacers to avoid the suspension topping out. I should then be able to comfortably run 33" tires.
 

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Looks like Arnott are making replacement air struts for front using Eibach shocks.
https://www.arnottindustries.com/pr...-grand-cherokee-wk2-w-quadra-lift-w-w-o-sport

I already know that many people are replacing the rear with Bilstein shocks or using strut spacers.

I am currently running a Rough Country levelling spacers at the front and levelling links to bring it up to level at the front. Really helps reduce the topping out of the front suspension when in OR1 and OR2 heights.

What suspension mods for Quadralift suspension are others running?



33 inch (275/70R18) tyres, OEM rims, no spacers.

Indydof, Can you please confirm what you did?! Just the Rough Country 2" level spacers and the modified links? Why has no one else said that the spacers will work with the modified links? Can you provide a long term report?

Just to make sure I'm understanding this right, you are 2" higher in the front and used the modified links to keep the air suspension in the same "middle" position of the shock at the standard ride height and are able to go up and down the same as normal, (up to OR1, OR2, down to Park) all just 2" higher? OR2 works and you are saying it doesn't have those hard bumps in OR2 anymore? Are any other issues with the computer or anything? If this works, could the 2.5" lift kit work with the modified links?

Sorry for all the questions but I haven't found anyone else who has put spacers on air suspension. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hi Rhino8888,

My Jeep has Rough Country 2 inch levelling spacers on the front. I also have 2 inch shock spacers on the back from Offroad Animal. The Quadralift suspension mounts are exactly the same as the standard suspension. Not sure why all the spacer manufacturers say it doesnt fit because they clearly do fit. I imagine they dont want to deal with the headache. I'm not a mechanic by any means however i was able to fit everything up myself in my driveway. The rear shock spacers are easy. The fronts require everything to come off including the driveshafts, dont even try doing it without taking the driveshafts out.

Initially i lifted using extended links however i have now put back the OEM links and have modified the suspension height in AlfaOBD.

Suspension height is set to 35mm above factory in the front, 15mm above factory in the back. I have therefore lost up travel but gained much more down travel. In OR1 and OR2 its so much better and much reduced topping out. With the suspension set like this all the height settings still work including Park however Park height is pretty much on the bump stops at the back. The rear spacers are actually 2 plates and i will be removing one of them in the future when i upgrade rear shocks. Ive put on over 10,000 kms with the spacers now including some pretty gnarly off road trips and it is almost perfect (i think 1 inch spacers at the rear will be enough)

With 33 inch tyres (275/70R18) on OEM wheels with no wheel spacers, the tyres don't really contact the body much (pinch weld modified and also cable tied the wheel liner back in a few places, the rear did contact without spacers but 2 inch fixed it and I am thinking 1 inch will be enough.

In regards to using larger than 2inch spacers on the front, there is a wiring harness that runs behind the front right strut, with 2 inch lift the strut just barely touches it at full droop. Anymore than 2 inches and you would have to do something about that harness but other than that i can't see any reason not to go to 2.5 or possibly 3 inches.

You can get more details here and links to the products i used:

So for less than a few hundred dollars if you do it yourself, lifting Qudralift is cost effective and relatively easy.

I am often on runs with the Sydney Jeep Club if anyone in Australia wants to check out lifted QL in action :)
 

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Hi Rhino8888,

My Jeep has Rough Country 2 inch levelling spacers on the front. I also have 2 inch shock spacers on the back from Offroad Animal. The Quadralift suspension mounts are exactly the same as the standard suspension. Not sure why all the spacer manufacturers say it doesnt fit because they clearly do fit. I imagine they dont want to deal with the headache. I'm not a mechanic by any means however i was able to fit everything up myself in my driveway. The rear shock spacers are easy. The fronts require everything to come off including the driveshafts, dont even try doing it without taking the driveshafts out.

Initially i lifted using extended links however i have now put back the OEM links and have modified the suspension height in AlfaOBD.

Suspension height is set to 35mm above factory in the front, 15mm above factory in the back. I have therefore lost up travel but gained much more down travel. In OR1 and OR2 its so much better and much reduced topping out. With the suspension set like this all the height settings still work including Park however Park height is pretty much on the bump stops at the back. The rear spacers are actually 2 plates and i will be removing one of them in the future when i upgrade rear shocks. Ive put on over 10,000 kms with the spacers now including some pretty gnarly off road trips and it is almost perfect (i think 1 inch spacers at the rear will be enough)

With 33 inch tyres (275/70R18) on OEM wheels with no wheel spacers, the tyres don't really contact the body much (pinch weld modified and also cable tied the wheel liner back in a few places, the rear did contact without spacers but 2 inch fixed it and I am thinking 1 inch will be enough.

In regards to using larger than 2inch spacers on the front, there is a wiring harness that runs behind the front right strut, with 2 inch lift the strut just barely touches it at full droop. Anymore than 2 inches and you would have to do something about that harness but other than that i can't see any reason not to go to 2.5 or possibly 3 inches.

You can get more details here and links to the products i used:

So for less than a few hundred dollars if you do it yourself, lifting Qudralift is cost effective and relatively easy.

I am often on runs with the Sydney Jeep Club if anyone in Australia wants to check out lifted QL in action :)
Indyof, thanks for the write-up and the videos. I'm fairly certain I'll be replicating this and be able to fit 275/60r20's with the current 1" wheel spacers I have in the front and 1.5" wheel spacers in rear and some front fender trimming plus the pinch weld mod. Just to make sure I understand, please comment on the questions below.

The front is fairly simple: 2" spacer (I believe its actually 1.75") lowers the strut, alfaOBD to set NRH at 35mm(1.4") above factory. That results in the strut being 0.35" more compressed at NRH, allowing 0.35" more travel and reducing bump stop knocking in OR1 and OR2. Great!

The rear is where I still have some questions. The air springs and the shocks are separate in the back and it looks like you just put a spacer on the shock. I'm not sure where the bump stop is originally for limiting compression travel, but it sounds like you've made it the fully compressed shock by adding the spacer. What about the extended travel in the rear? Was the shock the limiting factor here too and the air spring has no issue drooping a extra 2" from the shock spacer plus the 15mm lift.

I was going to swap out the oem shocks for bilsteins as others have done, it sounds like I should stick with the 4600s, which have a little more extended travel than oem, rather than the 5100s which go an extra inch or 2 and would cause the extended travel to be limited by the air bags.

Just to confirm, there is no knocking in the rear at OR2 due to the air springs plus your 15mm lift without a spacer for the air spring? I see Offroad animal now has 15mm strut spacers, could these be placed on top of the air strut to return your NRH back to normal with the lift?
Strut top plate, Grand Cherokee Wk2 2011-2020
As for the Offroad animal shock spacers, is each one 1 inch and you had 2 stacked on each side? I saw Offroad animal commented for you to contact them on your youtube video, what did they say?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
To answer your questions:
  • Where are the bump stops in the rear?
    • Bump stops are part of the strut and limit travel in both directions
  • Air spring has no issue drooping a extra 2" from the shock spacer?
    • No issues, air spring can handle the extra 2 inches
  • 4600 or 5100's?
    • I believe the travel on these are exactly the same, as they are the same strut, only difference is valving and paint
  • Is there no knocking?
    • Well no, the knocking still exists when the shock hits full extension but it is greatly reduced because it has much more travel.
  • Offroad Animal 15mm strut spacers
    • These are for the front not the rear and are just a smaller version of the Rough Country spacer that i use
  • Offroad Animal shock spacers
    • When you buy them you get 2 plates for each side to provide a total of 2 inches of lift at the wheel. So it should be 1 inch per plate.
    • I think i mention in the video i might experiment going down to 1 plate, only thing stopping me is that 33 inch tyres rub badly at full compression, not sure 1 plate would be enough but need to do some testing. I would do this because its basically sitting on bump stop in Park mode and not much travel in Aero mode which i'm in 90% of the time. If i put Bilsteins on i would definitely try 1 plate because 2 inch spacers and the extended struts might be too much for the air springs. The white rhino build (White Rhino a 2014 EcoDiesel on 35's and Air Springs - JeepForum.com) uses 5100's with RRO shock spacers (which i believe are 1 inch) and they have no issues with stock air bags either (with no spacers).
  • Offroad Animal Communication
    • They just wanted to know more info on deflating the airbags.
  • Some addition information
    • Use AlfaOBD to empty the airbags to reservoir before disconnecting air lines, this reduces the amount of nitrogen lost to almost nothing. It is the best way to do it.
Let me know if you have any other questions, happy to help.
 

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To answer your questions:
  • Where are the bump stops in the rear?
    • Bump stops are part of the strut and limit travel in both directions
  • Air spring has no issue drooping a extra 2" from the shock spacer?
    • No issues, air spring can handle the extra 2 inches
  • 4600 or 5100's?
    • I believe the travel on these are exactly the same, as they are the same strut, only difference is valving and paint
  • Is there no knocking?
    • Well no, the knocking still exists when the shock hits full extension but it is greatly reduced because it has much more travel.
  • Offroad Animal 15mm strut spacers
    • These are for the front not the rear and are just a smaller version of the Rough Country spacer that i use
  • Offroad Animal shock spacers
    • When you buy them you get 2 plates for each side to provide a total of 2 inches of lift at the wheel. So it should be 1 inch per plate.
    • I think i mention in the video i might experiment going down to 1 plate, only thing stopping me is that 33 inch tyres rub badly at full compression, not sure 1 plate would be enough but need to do some testing. I would do this because its basically sitting on bump stop in Park mode and not much travel in Aero mode which i'm in 90% of the time. If i put Bilsteins on i would definitely try 1 plate because 2 inch spacers and the extended struts might be too much for the air springs. The white rhino build (White Rhino a 2014 EcoDiesel on 35's and Air Springs - JeepForum.com) uses 5100's with RRO shock spacers (which i believe are 1 inch) and they have no issues with stock air bags either (with no spacers).
  • Offroad Animal Communication
    • They just wanted to know more info on deflating the airbags.
  • Some addition information
    • Use AlfaOBD to empty the airbags to reservoir before disconnecting air lines, this reduces the amount of nitrogen lost to almost nothing. It is the best way to do it.
Let me know if you have any other questions, happy to help.
Great post.
Couple Questions:
When off roading on heavily rutted roads, in OR1, it see saws or bucks front and back, making it hard to control and sometimes clunking the top out noise, have you had that experience. Do you think the spacers or the AlfaOBD would help the bucking?
If adding a spacer at the top of the front air strut, does the air need to be let out of the front strut with the AlfaOBD? Do you have to disconnect the air hose?
Offroad animal no longer sells the shock spacers, their insurance policy was going way up if they were going to continue selling suspension parts. Any thoughts on where to get those?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
OEM rear airbags started leaking so I replaced them with the Arnott airbags. Seem to be a bit longer and better than OEM.
224611
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Great post.
Couple Questions:
When off roading on heavily rutted roads, in OR1, it see saws or bucks front and back, making it hard to control and sometimes clunking the top out noise, have you had that experience. Do you think the spacers or the AlfaOBD would help the bucking?
If adding a spacer at the top of the front air strut, does the air need to be let out of the front strut with the AlfaOBD? Do you have to disconnect the air hose?
Offroad animal no longer sells the shock spacers, their insurance policy was going way up if they were going to continue selling suspension parts. Any thoughts on where to get those?
Spacers let me ride at the same height with less spring pressure, helps the bouncing somewhat.
Adding spacers to the front needs the whole strut to come out. You can deflate to reservoir with AlfaOBD. Yes you have to disconnect the air line, it is no big deal.
Ironman 4x4 also sell the rear spacers, i tried to buy these first but they were a nightmare to deal with and I cancelled my order. Offroad animal spacers are still on there website. Shock relocation Bracket (rear), Grand Cherokee Wk2, 2011-2020
 

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I'm new here and been researching fixes for my suspension. 2013 JGC trailhawk with quadralift and 51k miles. Vehicle feels extremely bouncy when driving on road, and gets worse to being unsafe on uneven terrain or even manholes/potholes. I, too, get the bottom/top-out knocking when in OR2 and it scared the heck out of me.

I replaced rear shocks with Bilstein 4600s and the on road bouncing is reduced by about 70%. Still not perfect, but amazing results for parts that are $76 a piece in US.

The remaining 30% made me curious to research more toward opportunities for improvement. When I go over a speed bump, the front suspension is still very bouncy and bounces up and down several times before finding normal riding height and stable/neutral level. Previously the same would happen with the rear. Now when I go over the speed bumps with the new Bilstein 4600s, it levels/stabilizes faster than you can blink. It's really amazing.

So I'm thinking I need to do similar for the front. But I understand the front is a complete assembly of an airbag, shock, and coil-over spring. What do you all recommend here?

Also, I notice the spacers help the bounciness for OP. Is that while in OR1 or OR2, or normal vehicle height for driving on roads? Although it would be nice to fix the bottom/top-out knocking while in OR2, it's lower priority for me than fixing the front struts while on road. Thanks for any help you all can provide.
 

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Ninja, OR-I and OR-II are speed limited to about 45 mph and 25 mph respectively so they are not really usable for most on-road activity. For the latter, it's really only for crawling when you need that extra half-inch to clear something. There is very little suspension left at that height; hence, hitting the stops which is uncomfortable and noisy. IE, it's not "fixable"...it's working as designed.

I can't help you with recommendations for the front replacements as I don't do mods. There are plenty of threads about it, however.
 
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Ninja, OR-I and OR-II are speed limited to about 45 mph and 25 mph respectively so they are not really usable for most on-road activity. For the latter, it's really only for crawling when you need that extra half-inch to clear something. There is very little suspension left at that height; hence, hitting the stops which is uncomfortable and noisy. IE, it's not "fixable"...it's working as designed.

I can't help you with recommendations for the front replacements as I don't do mods. There are plenty of threads about it, however.
Thanks! Clarifying I don't do OR-I or OR-II on-road, however you've certainly taught me on the mph limitations! Thanks for sharing that knowledge!

My struts are factory OEM and appear to be weak/worn, hence the bounciness. I'm not necessarily looking to mod, if I can avoid it. Only looking to get the ride back to it's intended stability. Prior to adding the Bilstein 4600s, my theoretical "moose test" was scary unsafe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The Arnott front struts use Eibach shock absorbers and are cheaper than Mopar replacement. I will be upgrading to these.
 

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Thanks! Clarifying I don't do OR-I or OR-II on-road, however you've certainly taught me on the mph limitations! Thanks for sharing that knowledge!
Your manual is your friend... ;)
 
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