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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My Jeep Grand Cherokee 2012 5.7L has the auto setting on the AWD setting. I heard that with full time AWD, the tires has to be keep at the same wear otherwise transfer case will be burnt. . But I have been thinking how can I possible keep them the same wear. there is always a small difference even if we diligently rotate the tire every year. As a result the front axle will always slightly rotate at different speed than the rear axle, thus the transfer case clutch is rubbing ? can someone please explain the internal working of transfer case and the weakness it has with slight difference in tire wear. . How can the design of the jeep transfer case be so rigid such that the difference in tire wear can not be tolerated ? Nobody can maintain precise wear on all 4 tires. Nobody..
I have had my transfer case burnt already because of this difference in tire wear even though I rotate every year. I do not want to happen the second time. I wish Jeep has the 2WD rear only setting like the GM trucks such as Chevy Tahoe. It really does not make sense that all four tires are actively pulling the vehicle in hot summer time, where there is no snow. What for ?
 

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2014 5.7 Limited ORA2
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The QD2 transfer case actually defaults to RWD most of the time in regular driving in auto mode, so you don't have to worry about it. My 2014 Grand Cherokee with QD2 never had any issues with tire wear being excessive enough to wreck everything
 

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The QD2 transfer case actually defaults to RWD most of the time in regular driving in auto mode, so you don't have to worry about it.
Only in sport mode. Other modes are "about" 50/50 relative to power transfer. There has been a table published here in threads a number of times over the years that speaks to this.

OP, it's not an issue as there is a level of tolerance for minor deviation in normal tread wear, etc. The open differential also helps with things like this. Obviously, if there's a severe alignment issue with one corner that results in excessive wear, one has to take action and replace the tires.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank you Jim . In that case, if our goal is to minimize wear on the transfer case, should I put in sport mode all the time ? That way transfer case only have to distribute power to the rear wheels, and there will be less clutch wear in the transfer case because the transfer case just provide direct coupling between engine shaft and the rear axle ? The reason I ask is, I tow RV a lot with my Jeep GC.
 

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Honestly, you're most likely wasting your time trying to "minimize wear on the transfer case" since it's not really an issue or risk if you maintain your vehicle properly. IMHO. Even when towing. There many, many hundreds of thousands of these things...like a couple million or more...that have been produced and transfer case problems are not really a thing.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I see from this, that sport mode distribute 80% of the torque to the rear axle. It seems like that is the setting that i need to do when towing RV trailer. Because the clutch has little role to play transferring the power to the front axle. Dealer said the transfer case was blown because the clutch was worn out They showed me that the transfer case has a lot of destroyed clutch material (like a fine dust from sand paper) I now have a new transfer case and would like to keep it as long as possible, as I tow RV thousands of miles every year, climbing rocky mountains several times. The Jeep GC with Hemi does not have a problem towing 5000 lb , since it has 7700 ln tow capacity. I can climb rocky mountains with ease.
 

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The maintenance interval is 30k miles IIRC. It makes sense considering the work the transfer case is doing. This is often overlooked since the EVIC system doesn’t do reminders like for engine oil.

I don’t remember what the differential fluid change interval is. But if you tow a lot consider doing it more often than standard service interval.
 

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I have the eLSD on my truck with 60,000 miles on it. Original oil. I will be changing it this year.
… has anyone heard of actual failures?
my dad had over 200,000miles on the original diff oil no problems.
Im Not saying we should neglect them but I don’t think we need to panic either…

The prices the dealer wants to change the oil in my transfer case and diffs is $1,500… every 20,000 miles 🤣 i would have been $4,500 at this point in my truck. If I allowed them to have their way with me…
The oil is still clear and clean in my diff..
 

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I’m sure failures have happened.
My question is, How many of those are due to old oil?
My next question is what’s the cost of a replacement transfer case?
are these expensive oil changes worth it?
im going to do my oils at 100,000kms (62,000miles).
unless of course there is proof that it is definitely needed sooner.
I think the reality is ALOT of these grand Cherokees are running around on original oil. And doing so without complaint.
 

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Hi - might go without saying, make sure you rotate your tires regularly. For ease of remembering, do every oil change. If you want or have a spare that is more functional than a limp home, put a matching rim and tire and do 5 wheel rotate. Lookup online, you will see how it is done. Having a matching spare and 5 wheel rotate also makes for easier DIY tire change regularly since u only need to jake one tire at a time.

Sport mode and pulling a trailer caught me off guard, wore down rears really fast. Had the same unsettled feeling you are having, all was good in the end. Must have been a good 1/32 - 1/16 ish diff between front and back. Made me super nervous.

-mark
 

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Yes I’m sure there are. Also sure many will be traded in or lease return and have failures later in service. Much of the need for fluid change interval will have to do with how you use you GC.
If you DIY the TC change is cheap and easy. Diffs are slightly mor difficult.
 

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Hi - might go without saying, make sure you rotate your tires regularly. For ease of remembering, do every oil change. If you want or have a spare that is more functional than a limp home, put a matching rim and tire and do 5 wheel rotate. Lookup online, you will see how it is done. Having a matching spare and 5 wheel rotate also makes for easier DIY tire change regularly since u only need to jake one tire at a time.

Sport mode and pulling a trailer caught me off guard, wore down rears really fast. Had the same unsettled feeling you are having, all was good in the end. Must have been a good 1/32 - 1/16 ish diff between front and back. Made me super nervous.

-mark
Some specialty tire shops can shave your tires. Correcting the wear differences, but these shops are few and far between. Ask around in the auto sports community to find a place that does it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
I bought the jeep at 114K, and I used if for heavy towing until 136K when the transfer case was broken , so I am not sure if it is the heavy towing or the uneven tire wear that wore out the transfer case clutch. Or maybe it is just a normal lifetime of a transfer case. I don't think the previous owner has ever replaced the transfer case
 

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Sadly most TCs are not maintained well, including my own, until now. I find it interesting that the dealers that worked on my GC would service or recommend service on many things, but never the TC or diffs. It’s a bummer since it is not difficult to do. The hardest part for me is removing the skid plates for access, and operating the hand pump under the rig while up on ramps.

Figure out which components you have, then look up a couple YouTube vids. Get the proper fluids and tools. If you don’t have skid plates and have access to a lift, you could do all easily for appx $120 in fluids in 1 hr.
 

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Only in sport mode. Other modes are "about" 50/50 relative to power transfer. There has been a table published here in threads a number of times over the years that speaks to this.

OP, it's not an issue as there is a level of tolerance for minor deviation in normal tread wear, etc. The open differential also helps with things like this. Obviously, if there's a severe alignment issue with one corner that results in excessive wear, one has to take action and replace the tires.

That's not correct. Auto mode will default to RWD..........I've fully tested this out


Driving in sport mode and hard throttle input sends power to the front axle.
 

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From a previous thread on this topic:
Font Parallel Screenshot Number Rectangle
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
That's not correct. Auto mode will default to RWD..........I've fully tested this out


Driving in sport mode and hard throttle input sends power to the front axle.
Super awesome Tyler, can you please test when the Jeep needs pulling power, simulating when it pull heavy trailer ? maybe when it accelerate. I can hear you did accelerate and I took this. . What does this picture mean ? Does it mean 50-50 when it accelerate ?
Font Screenshot Communication Device Gadget Software


and is that the picture when you did auto or sport mode ? Can you please try auto mode whena accelerate or when you tow ?
 

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Tyler, you are, to my memory, the first person I've seen since mid-2012 to claim the the system defaults to RWD for the "WK2". That's not consistent with all of the descriptions provided by "insiders" and other sources over that time period. Jeep did add an automatic front disconnect to the next generation WL Grand Cherokee, but that does not exist in the "WK2". The table I provided above is how this has been presented since I've been here from when I bought my MY12 Overland Summit in 2012.
 
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