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2011 GC Overlend
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47 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys anyone have problem with rear defrost? Since the wether got cold I notice the my window is not difrosting is anyone have this problem and how I can fix .
 

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Laredo X
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40 Posts
Mine stopped working last year. I am still under warranty so I took it back to the dealer for a fix. They showed me where it looked like it was scratched off in a lot of places. I haven't ever hauled anything that could of scratched it. Haven't got it fixed just yet.
 

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441 Posts
Mine stopped working last year. I am still under warranty so I took it back to the dealer for a fix. They showed me where it looked like it was scratched off in a lot of places. I haven't ever hauled anything that could of scratched it. Haven't got it fixed just yet.
Might look at a defroster grid repair kit, I think Permatex makes one for around $30.
 

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2014 WK2 Overland
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816 Posts
Open the rear flipper glass. You will see a black plastic shield around the edges of the defroster grid. The shield has locking tabs every couple of inches that will need to be released to reveal the wiring. Check to make sure the tabs are secured to the edge of the grid. There is a tab on each side. Check and double check these first before performing a grid repair. Obviously, if the defroster tab has come loose, you will need a special conductive adhesive to repair it. Many folks have tried the "over the counter" repair adhesive from various parts stores, and have also has mixed results on the repair being successful.

If you are handy with a multimeter, you can check the continuity of the grid to find any breaks.
 

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2011 JGC LTD
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12 Posts
Open the rear flipper glass. You will see a black plastic shield around the edges of the defroster grid. The shield has locking tabs every couple of inches that will need to be released to reveal the wiring. Check to make sure the tabs are secured to the edge of the grid. There is a tab on each side. Check and double check these first before performing a grid repair. Obviously, if the defroster tab has come loose, you will need a special conductive adhesive to repair it. Many folks have tried the "over the counter" repair adhesive from various parts stores, and have also has mixed results on the repair being successful.

If you are handy with a multimeter, you can check the continuity of the grid to find any breaks.

I'm having this problem as well, checked today and the black plastic shield was indeed loose, so much so that a very light wiggle caused a section of it to come off in my hand...from the response above, am I correct in thinking that the plastic trim piece is more then a cover? Does it in some way facilitate the flow of current through the wires? Does the repair adhesive get applied to the tabs?

Also, does anyone know if the cover is available online or through MOPAR??

Finally, could there be an issues with the wires other then the cover? I don't have the heated mirrors so I don't have any way to rule out the relay as I don't have a multimeter...

All thoughts and insights greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance!
 

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2014 WK2 Overland
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816 Posts
I'm having this problem as well, checked today and the black plastic shield was indeed loose, so much so that a very light wiggle caused a section of it to come off in my hand...from the response above, am I correct in thinking that the plastic trim piece is more then a cover? Does it in some way facilitate the flow of current through the wires? Does the repair adhesive get applied to the tabs?

Also, does anyone know if the cover is available online or through MOPAR??

Finally, could there be an issues with the wires other then the cover? I don't have the heated mirrors so I don't have any way to rule out the relay as I don't have a multimeter...

All thoughts and insights greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance!
The plastic trim is just there to shield the wiring. Nothing more. You'll need to first remove the covers and visually inspect the "tab" on each side of the glass to make sure it appears attached to the glass itself. Beyond that, you'll need that multimeter.

Yes, the conductive adhesive gets applied directly between the tabs and the glass. It requires minimal surface prep before application.
 
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