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04 WJ Columbia Ed
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The new rear upper has arrived, pre-loaded with crappy bushings. I'll be looking to press those out and replace them with something much better if possible. I've got emails in to 4wd Hardware and Energy Suspension to see if they can help at all. Bushing dims are 2-5/8" tall, 1-7/8" diameter at the top, and a 1/2 bolt hole.

What do you guys think about filling the voids in this bushing with silicone or butyl rubber? Wouldn't that reduce the flexibility and therefore reduce the amount of wear that kill these things? Opinions? Don't forget...opinions are like boltholes.
This is a common trick with the front mounts on the A33 Nissan Maximas as well as a few other front drivers. It cannot hurt...
 

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2013 JKU Sahara
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Discussion Starter #22
So how are you guys removing and installing the bushings from the control arm?
 

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04 WJ Columbia Ed
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Removing would be easy for me - Propane torch!

:eek:hsnap:

I would actually cut the center section of the bushing out with a sawzall then cut part way thru the outer section of the bushing. Once that was done I would go at it with a cold punch and 2LB hammer.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Removing would be easy for me - Propane torch!

:eek:hsnap:

I would actually cut the center section of the bushing out with a sawzall then cut part way thru the outer section of the bushing. Once that was done I would go at it with a cold punch and 2LB hammer.
Yeah, except I'm trying to remove them whole...so I can get accurate measurements. I'm also going to need to install the new ones. Not sure a torch and sawzall will help with the installation part....
 

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04 WJ Columbia Ed
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The only option is to carefully press them out. I might be tempted to go to some machine shop and have them do it with the major concern of preserving the bushing.
 

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The beast from Brazil
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I used a metal tube a bit larger then the bushing and a socket on the other side of the bushing. Then use a press.
 

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2013 JKU Sahara
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Discussion Starter #27
Looks like I'm stopping by my local Harbor Freight tomorrow...think I can get it done with one of these?

6 Ton A-Frame Bench Shop Press

I really don't have the space for a big ol' 20 ton.
 

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Amber Instigator
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3,195 Posts
Save your money and get this bro. 12 Ton Shop Press I also considered that benchtop A frame but look at the max working distance. It's only 4". That's gonna severely limit what you can do with it. It would probably work for the A arm but you couldn't do much else with it. For an extra $50 you get a floor standing 12 ton press with over 28" of working room. Trust me buddy you'll find a lot of uses for something like that. I bought a table top drill press from them which I love but it's no good for the bigger stuff so now I want a floor model which I should have bought to begin with. Don't be such a Dave:lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Ugh...FINE. Now I need to find a place to put the damn thing. Maybe I'll cut the legs down a little. I'm workin' in some pretty tight quarters over here brah. You're right though...for the money, that's a lot more press.

The ball joint made it in today. Slowly collecting pieces to make this problem go away. Now I just need to find the right bushings...





 

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Discussion Starter #30
Press is put together, and a I ordered 2 sets of bushings. One is a set of Dormans, and another is a set of Raybestos "professional grade". I pressed out the ones that came with my new upper control arm assembly from Omix, so I'll have 3 different bushings to compare. Stay tuned for more. When it's all said and done, I'll have a spare upper control arm and a set of spare bushings, so if you're having the same problem I am, I'll be selling what I don't use.

 

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Discussion Starter #32
The numbers are in boys....so here's the Big Bushing Comparo:

Top is an Omix-Ada, lower left is Raybestos, and lower right is Dorman.

Visually, the Raybestos and Dormans are identical, and are very likely cast from the same mold. The Omix ones are different. Not much, but different.

I weighed each one expecting to find the Omix ones to be the lightest. Not the case.

Omix = both were 395 grams
Raybestos = both were 392 grams
Dorman = One was 392 grams, the other was 386 grams

I'm not quite sure you're paying for material with these. There appears to be more rubber around the center with the Raybestos and Dorman vs the Omix.

So I'm going to go with the Raybestos ones, just because I don't think anyone else has run them. What do you guys suggest I fill the voids with if I'm looking for durability? Silicone? Gasket Maker/Adhesive?

I'm going to remove my old rear upper control arm, clean it up, paint it, and install the Dormans in it, then put it up for sale. If anyone wants dibs, let me know.



 

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Discussion Starter #34
How much? My cousins 00' Laredo is shot!!! Roll over an ant and rear end bangs like 4th of july. It be shipped quote to 60634
It's probably going to be a few weeks before it's available, but I'm thinking $70 is fair, shipped. A new assembly runs about $110 plus shipping and that's with crappy bushings.
 

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04 WJ Columbia Ed
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Done any cross-referencing on these?
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Done any cross-referencing on these?
As far as what other vehicles they fit? Or what other mfg's make them?

I know the Libby's run them...but that's about it.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Project A-arm complete....
I needed a 2 foot length of conduit to use as a cheater bar, and a whole lot of patience, but in total, it took me about 3 hours. All the bolts got PB Blasted for the last few days. I jacked it up by the hitch, put the stands on the hitch frame, and that gave me enough room to work. I started with the 3 bolts on top of the diff. I figured if I couldn't get those broken loose, I wasn't going to be able to do the job anyway. I got 2 totally out, and one at least turning...21mm combination ratcheting wrench. After that, I removed all the small bolts holding on the various tubes and lines, then removed the two long bolts that go through the bushings. I then was able to finish removing the one leftover bolt on the diff.

I took a prybar to the bushing mounts to spread them just enough to get the A-arm out. Once out, I was able to use a pneumatic impact gun to remove the nut holding the ball joint on. One good whack with a hammer and the ball joint came out of its plate.

The plate got wire brushed, and greased, and I pressed the new Moog ball joint on with my handy-dandy new shop press, and the joint and plate assembly got bolted on to the new A-arm. I pressed the Omix bushings out of my new A-arm and pressed in my Raybestos ones that I partially filled with black Permatex gasket maker and adhesive I had left over from a diff cover installation. The whole animal went under the Jeep and got bolted up. I bolted the the ball joint plate on first, then the muffler side bushing, then the other. The last bolt didn't line up right away, so it took a little muscling to get it to line up. Everything then got torqued down. The lines were re-installed, but I didn't use the OE bolts. Not only were they rusty, but the new A-arm was not threaded, so I just used stainless self-tappers. After a drive around the block, I heard no noises. It felt a lot tighter too.

The old bushings were totally shot. When the old a-arm came out, the plate on the top of the bushings just fell out. The rubber was torn inside too. I tried to pop the bad bushings out of the old a-arm, but they were so rusted, everything just deformed, so I'm tossing the old a-arm and returning my extra set of bushings to RockAuto. Fingers crossed these last longer than the Omix ones.

The key here is just not to strip the heads on the bolts above the diff. I had a wrench slip on one, but luckily, when it slipped, it also broke it loose. I'll be replacing it, because if there is a next time, I don't want to have to fight with it.

Should I avoid stainless bolts because the housing is cast aluminum?
 

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Amber Instigator
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Well bro you're already dealing with the dissimilar metal corrosion thing no matter what so go with a grade 8 bolt. Stainless has no shear strength and will still lock up in aluminium. So if you don't want to snap the heads off if there is a next time stay away from stainless. Grade 8 and some never seize is the way to go IMO.
 

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Well bro you're already dealing with the dissimilar metal corrosion thing no matter what so go with a grade 8 bolt. Stainless has no shear strength and will still lock up in aluminium. So if you don't want to snap the heads off if there is a next time stay away from stainless. Grade 8 and some never seize is the way to go IMO.
I see I'm a little late, but Dave is right. Grade 8 bolts and never seize. Can't use enough never seize living in the rust/salt belt. :mad:
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Oh yeah...got it...hope to get under there tonight and install it. I anti-seize just about everything that's external. Including lugs. I've seen too many lug nuts come off with the stud still inside due to the whole dissimilar metals crap.
 
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