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Discussion Starter #1
Took a road trip and 3 hours in my screen died. It turned on this morning for 2 minutes and then went black.
Where or how can I repair this thing? I would upgrade but have a lifetime xm subscription
Thanks
 

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When the screen is off, do the buttons along the bottom of the unit work (above the nav disc)?

If these are not working as well, it's not just the screen but a failed solder point and a fairly common problem with these as they age. I haven't heard anyone identify which one it is. Some people have tried cooling various components on the board to see if they can identify the problem without success. Others have tried re-flowing the solder by removing the screen from the board and throwing the thing in a toaster oven (similar to the Xbox 360 fix) wiithout success.

Basically, i have heard lots of people with this problem and have not seen anyone successfully fix this themselves, and most people have just replaced the unit with another or taken the opportunity to upgrade.

Repair costs are typically $500 or more if you can find a place willing to touch them.

If you do find the fix, let us know, as I am sure these are going to become more and more common!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah all the buttons work. I found a thread about someone saying to reflow two cooling resistors.
 

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If all the buttons work, it could be the screen itself and not a problem with the board so I doubt cooking your board would help,

There are companies that will replace the screen for about $300, or if you can find a replacement its not a hard job to do yourself if you are comfortable with electronics.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The forum I found the reflowing the resistors doesn't work right now. Ill change the screen if I have to
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Here's the post

found this after doing a little searching on the net. i found a new one to buy but from how this guy describes it being temperature related narrows it down pretty fricken well. hope this helps....this describes the cure to fix a ford head unit fyi.

Hi I just wanted to post the cure that fixed my radio. The cure came
from someone that e-mailed me directly, so I will not post his name
here. Here is the instructions that I followed. I am an electronics
tech and did not have a problem with the prochedure.
By opening up the radio you will find a narrow display power board
within the left side of the radio (faceplate toward you). This board
has a metal cover soldered to it, with a toroid (wire wound doughnut)
inside on one side, and a bank of surface mount resistors and
capacitors on the bottom side. One end of the board (SCR heat sink)
is screwed to the heat sink at the back of the radio, the board is
secured with 2 metal bend-tabs, and it has a white mini connector on
the other end which connects to the faceplate. Remove the board from
the radio.
On the bottom of the board look for surface mount components
R1057/C1071/R1058/C1083/R1064. The colder these resistor/capacitor
chipsets get, the brighter the display. I left the car out in the +5
f degree weather and the display worked until it warmed up a little.
That is how I was able to track it down to these temperature sensitive
parts. Freeze-it also helped after I narrowed it down to a few
components.
The fix that worked for me was to re-molten the solder for each end of
these surface mount components. Be very careful if you try this, as a
big soldering iron, or a lot of heat will destroy the components and
board. And don't do this with the radio plugged in. If you're not
comfortable doing this take it to a friend who is. So far this fix
has kept working for a week, I hope it is permanent.
Disclaimers - don't try this without proper training. It may not be
the same problem that mine had. Don't hold me financially liable to
any damage or expenses you may incur. Fix suggestion is not meant to
put anyone's audio repair business out of business, etc,...
Good Luck!
 

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Thanks for posting this.

It certainly is likely the same root culprit, but finding which component has fractured solder is the tough part!

Sometimes, these types of breaks will only be visible during x-raying of the board.
 

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You can transfer your xm subscription. I have an rec radio that I could sell you if you want to replace the unit. Its in great condition
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I didn't pay for it. If I spend any money it will be for touch screen and all the goodies
 

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Hi guys, I am having the same issues need to know which thing you had to resolder....open up top it's the cdplayer....open up heat sink on left side or rec and only a small visible section...I have the front panel off as well as the screen...where should I be looking.....pictures coming

Here's the post

found this after doing a little searching on the net. i found a new one to buy but from how this guy describes it being temperature related narrows it down pretty fricken well. hope this helps....this describes the cure to fix a ford head unit fyi.

Hi I just wanted to post the cure that fixed my radio. The cure came
from someone that e-mailed me directly, so I will not post his name
here. Here is the instructions that I followed. I am an electronics
tech and did not have a problem with the prochedure.
By opening up the radio you will find a narrow display power board
within the left side of the radio (faceplate toward you). This board
has a metal cover soldered to it, with a toroid (wire wound doughnut)
inside on one side, and a bank of surface mount resistors and
capacitors on the bottom side. One end of the board (SCR heat sink)
is screwed to the heat sink at the back of the radio, the board is
secured with 2 metal bend-tabs, and it has a white mini connector on
the other end which connects to the faceplate. Remove the board from
the radio.
On the bottom of the board look for surface mount components
R1057/C1071/R1058/C1083/R1064. The colder these resistor/capacitor
chipsets get, the brighter the display. I left the car out in the +5
f degree weather and the display worked until it warmed up a little.
That is how I was able to track it down to these temperature sensitive
parts. Freeze-it also helped after I narrowed it down to a few
components.
The fix that worked for me was to re-molten the solder for each end of
these surface mount components. Be very careful if you try this, as a
big soldering iron, or a lot of heat will destroy the components and
board. And don't do this with the radio plugged in. If you're not
comfortable doing this take it to a friend who is. So far this fix
has kept working for a week, I hope it is permanent.
Disclaimers - don't try this without proper training. It may not be
the same problem that mine had. Don't hold me financially liable to
any damage or expenses you may incur. Fix suggestion is not meant to
put anyone's audio repair business out of business, etc,...
Good Luck!
 

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those instructions are for a Ford. It's probably similar, but our boards don't have those numbers (R1057/C1071/R1058/C1083/R1064) that I could find.
 
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