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Discussion Starter #1
220135

So far all I have taken off is the ductwork from the air filter to the throttle body. I'm trying to get under this passenger side valve cover to hopefully find an obvious and easily replaceable rocker arm that has been ticking.

Aside from the electrical connections clipped to the cover itself does anything else need to come off in order to remove this valve cover? It seems nice and exposed! '11 Wk2 3.6

Sidenote I've really never done any work on an engine before...
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I've gotten a little farther now, all electrical is disconnected. It seems like that throttle body is going to have to come off to access the rear corner bolt and also to access where that wire conduit is attached to the valve cover. Is there a way to remove those plastic push-connectors that hold the wiring in place without breaking them?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Now I've taken the throttle body off... But it looks like that whole plastic intake has to come off to get down to that corner bolt. It looks like a few bolts going down and a few nuts horizontal.

Man I wish someone made a YouTube video of this repair on the WK2. Im not so good with exploratory surgery.


220140
 

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Discussion Starter #5
220230

Got the upper intake off. This was a nightmare. The 13mm bolt holding the bracket that the stud goes through on the driver side closest the firewall was very difficult to access. There's another bracket hanging off the bolt sandwiching in the nut you need to loosen, plus it's down below a bunch of wires and hoses.

Now that the intake is finally off, next step is removing the valve train cover!

I know I should do spark plugs while I have this off (never done and I'm at 135k) but I'm hesitant to conduct two different repairs: if it doesn't run right I won't know which part I messed up.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
STUCK. PLEASE HELP.
One of the videos I am basing my repair on is

However I can't seem to access the bolts holding in the part he removes in the first 2 minutes of the video. I can feel them but not see them, seems next to impossible to get a wrench in there.

In the vid he's doing a charger not a Wk2, maybe there's a but more room to work? Anyone have success taking off the valve train on a wk2?? Tips for getting that piece out??
220234


Also giving me pause is the degraded condition of the cover bolts, pictured is the worst of them. If that bolt head breaks I'll be way worse off than just an engine ticking...
220235


I'm considering just cutting bait and putting this vehicle back together, maybe doing the spark plugs since I've gone through the trouble of taking the intake off. I just don't know how to proceed to take this cover off, or if I even should.

I am stuck. Any advice here, please?
 

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Gees why is everything so rusty, looks like it’s been soaking in salt water all it’s life, my 2011 3.6 looks new in comparison, even my 1994 XJ look new compared to your pics.

Is it because of salt on your roads in winter
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Right so now I understand the piece that needs to come off is the PCV valve and wow is it tight back there. This video does a great job of showing the part removal.

At 135k I should be putting a new one on if I manage to get this out.

Related matter: do the spark plugs need to come out before removing the valve cover?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I realize this thread is more of a journal then a discussion but it is helping me keep my head straight.

I'm going to keep at this engine... Right now my problem is the hose clamp for the pcv valve (which needs to be removed because the hose is blocking the t25 bolts holding that part in) can't be reached by pliers. It is facing the firewall and impossible to access. I've ordered a cable-driven clamp pliers from Amazon for $15 so when that comes in I'll move forward.

Also, a visit to the parts counter yielded me updated parts numbers on the redesigned PCV valve as well as the updated hose.

So at the end of this project I'll hopefully have gotten to that ticking roller rocker but also have changed the plugs and PCV valve along the way. I'm unsure of whether or not to put in new upper intake gaskets- I mean, they seem fine...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
This is going very slowly.

Success: got the hose off the pcv valve despite the clamp release facing firewall! Used a cable driven pliers.

Failure: could only remove upper t25 bolts from the pcv valve. The lower is blocked it by a wire harness. I cut the zip ties holding the harness to the cover I'm removing but there's one near the firewall i think I need to cut next to move that conduit enough to access the final torx screw holding that pcv valve. This has not been fun or quick.

220326
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Update with pics. Sidenote: none of the youtube videos showing rocker arm replacement depict just how difficult it is to access the valvetrain, with many hard to reach areas where things need to be disassembled.

220400

This came out fine thankfully but the bolts don't seem to come all the way out so not sure how to replace it

220401

One video I saw said to take out the cam position sensor so i did. That was one rusty looking t30 bolt. Also got the coil packs out.

220402

I need to buy a tool that can get under these push in wire ties. I cut a few on the other side and now regret that. Then I saw a video where the guy slips a prybar under there and pops them out.

220403

Getting this PCV valve out way a nightmare. First, the hose clamp was difficult (see previous post). Then one of the t25 bolts was inaccessible because a huge wiring conduit blocked it, plus otherwise blind and hard to reach. I don't recommend anyone does this themselves unless, like me, you dont need the car as a DD or perhaps you know what you're doing more than I did.

220404

Almost there! All I need to do now is buy a deep socket 8mm to get at the studs and disconnect the remaining zip ties. When I get this valve cover off I really hope I can swap in the rocker arm, never having done anything like that before. If not then this was a lot of disassembly for nothing.
 

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It appears that yes, you need to loosen the transmission fill tube. I have a Haynes manual that doesn't mention this, but the factory service manual does. Before that, however, there is a wiring harness attachment on the back of it that may have also been missed. Attached is the diagram, and the attachment I am referring to is marked "2".
220645
 

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The diagrams for the fill tube don't make sense to me, but maybe once you are under there these will help. There were two diagrams. It says to remove the bolt, but you may not have to remove it, just give yourself some wiggle room.
220646

The second diagram (is this the same item from a different angle?):
220647
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Wk2driver - thanks for the diagrams!!! I went back to it before seeing your post today, and realized I also needed to loosen the plenum bracket that was more or less under the throttle-body. Another hard to access 13mm bolt.

Basically, I've found the valve cover can't lift straight up: it needs to push back towards the firewall a bit so the cam can clear the hole where the PCV valve was. With that other bracket loose, I can now get the cover a bit higher than I could the other day, but it jams firmly against that filler tube. It almost comes out but doesn't.

The filler neck bolt perhaps has to be accessed from below.... Your manual mentions jacking the vehicle up. From above I can't reach/see/feel that bolt at all. Didn't think I'd need the jack stands and creeper for this job...
 

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Yes, those diagrams are from below the Jeep. You may not have to jack it up; the factory service manual often goes overboard. But it is a good resource once you figure out how to navigate it. So far, the Haynes manual has been less helpful; but the few times it has helped me was well worth the $25 I paid for it, and so far the torque specs have matched the FSM. Check your library; they may have access to the digital / online Haynes/Chilton manuals, and I think you can print out the sections you need.

Basically I have found I need JeepGarage + YouTube + Factory Service Manual + Haynes all combined for most jobs.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
220742

Here is a picture of fig 283 from a previous post. Surprisingly it was about as far back as the passenger door. 10mm bolt, my wrench is hanging off it. This tube still seems bolted on there I need to locate the bolt in fig 284 but man can't see a thing
 
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