[Clark Kent]

My 2008 GC Overland 5.7 Hemi has a clunk when shifting between forward and reverse. It's a pretty good clunk. I thought it was a u joint.

My (very good) mechanic says it is not a u joint or in the Tranny. He thinks it is in the suspension. He can't get it to do it when it's up off the ground as there is no weight on the suspension.

He thinks it's clunking something when the tranny or diff. spool up and go from forward to reverse.

Any thoughts?? CK

Also I have had the car for about 8 mo. Runs great. I saw a drop or two of tranny fluid on a hose under the car when I changed oil.

My (very good) mechanic said it was a tranny line. To fix it he must take down the tranny, take out he radiator, etc. Big, big job.

It has not leaked 1/4 qt of oil in 8K miles. Is it worth fixing or what. I think it is just a fitting leaking a little.

Thanks again, CK

 

[therock2]

Many of the tranny coolant leaks occur at the crimped ends of the rubber hoses right before they go up into the radiator. Wipe off the crimped ends real well and then come back a day or two later after driving it for a few miles and see if there is any new fluid on them. I used a Dremel and cut the metal crimped ends off and installed new rubber hoses with two hose clamps on each end. Stopped the leak and saved me hundreds of dollars in repair costs.

As far as the clunk goes I'm baffled why changing gears would cause something in the suspension to make a noise.

 

[robpp]

the clunk is the front diff mounts....the bushings go bad/

there are 3 of them but they may not be ALL bad. they are a PITA to repair as you need to drop the diff air chisel them out press in new ones reinstall diff/

 

[dr.lee.baugh]

the clunk is the front diff mounts....the bushings go bad/

there are 3 of them but they may not be ALL bad. they are a PITA to repair as you need to drop the diff air chisel them out press in new ones reinstall diff/

This would be my first suspicion as well.

 

[Clark Kent]

Many of the tranny coolant leaks occur at the crimped ends of the rubber hoses right before they go up into the radiator. Wipe off the crimped ends real well and then come back a day or two later after driving it for a few miles and see if there is any new fluid on them. I used a Dremel and cut the metal crimped ends off and installed new rubber hoses with two hose clamps on each end. Stopped the leak and saved me hundreds of dollars in repair costs.

As far as the clunk goes I'm baffled why changing gears would cause something in the suspension to make a noise.

Thanks, This is tranny fluid that is leaking. Not coolant. Did you have to take out the radiator? Did you have to drop the tranny? Or could you just take the hose off and put a new end on it? Thanks, CK

 

[dr.lee.baugh]

I believe the other poster was talking about transmission fluid as well.

There are two metal crimped cooler lines that are located right behind the radiator on the passenger side that are known to leak at the crimps. I've had mine replaced twice over 150,000 miles.

The transmission or radiator does not have to come out to replace these, but they are a real PITA to route as they are a combination of metal lines with various kinks and bends that have to be installed just so and flex hose. If the repair shop doesn't have a lot of experience with these repairs, from just looking at it, I could see how they think the transmission could have to be dropped to get access.

Honestly, I wouldn't recommend doing it yourself if you are going to replace the lines - it would be a lot of scraped knuckles and frustration...a dealership (or knowledgeable repair shop) should only charge a couple hour's labor for the job, tops.

It sounds like the above work around (removing the crimps and reattaching) is good way to avoid replacing the entire line, and certainly will save some cash.

 

[hummer recovery team]

I also used clamps works awesome

 

[therock2]

Thanks for the clarification Dr. Lee. I meant to say fluid...not coolant. I used 3/8" fuel line to replace the rubber hoses. It was a little tricky trying not to cut through the aluminum coolant line to get the old clamp off. There's a groove that the clamp sits in that is a little deeper than the flared ends so I just cut as far down as I could on both sides of the clamp and then just bent the cut pieces back and forth until they broke off. I have heard of guys just cutting the tubing off right at the clamp so there would be no grinding necessary. You would just end up using a slightly longer piece of hose. Spent about $10 for the fix and haven't had a leak since.

 

[dr.lee.baugh]

Thanks for the clarification Dr. Lee. I meant to say fluid...not coolant. I used 3/8" fuel line to replace the rubber hoses. It was a little tricky trying not to cut through the aluminum coolant line to get the old clamp off. There's a groove that the clamp sits in that is a little deeper than the flared ends so I just cut as far down as I could on both sides of the clamp and then just bent the cut pieces back and forth until they broke off. I have heard of guys just cutting the tubing off right at the clamp so there would be no grinding necessary. You would just end up using a slightly longer piece of hose. Spent about $10 for the fix and haven't had a leak since.

No problem - and technically, you are correct...the transmission fluid functions as a coolant as well!

Sounds like a great way to tackle the problem, and way easier than replacing the lines!

 

[Chrytek08]

your clunk noise youre hearing is most definitely your front diff mount bushing. we replace them all the time, really easy gravy job when the vehicle is on a rack. havent done one on the ground so not to sure on that note but shouldnt be too complicated.