Should this look so corroded?

7862 Views 18 Replies 16 Participants Last post by mswlogo, Oct 16, 2013

JeepJunkie

Discussion Starter · Jun 4, 2012

Pulled my tires for a rotation this weekend (probably the last one I'll do myself, since that was a huge PITA). Anyway, what is this and why does it look so messed up? Is this normal? 30k miles on my WK2.

See less See more

Save

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

08Hemi

· #2 · Jun 4, 2012

Have you been in salt flats? To me that does not look normal as my 08 with 36k doesn't even come close to that

Save

Sponge Bob

· #3 · Jun 5, 2012

Sorry to say mine looked even worse. I had only 6K and 12 months on them. The rims and rotors had a bad reaction and almost welded themselves together. I had to practically pry them apart. Have you checked the studs and nuts inside the front wheel wells? I have more rust than the Titanic. Looks like crap metallurgy to me. Planned obsolescence anyone?!?!?!

Save

Angler

· #4 · Jun 5, 2012

Looks like more Chinese parts to me. Geez I just love this global economy.

Save

Yadkin

· #5 · Jun 5, 2012 (Edited)

What state is this in. One of the reasons why I left the rust belt...

I took a trip to the Adirondacks this past spring. When I got home I washed the truck from top to bottom and had a ton of New York State lying on my driveway when I was done.

Save

AussieJeep

· #6 · Jun 5, 2012

If you havent been in salt water or on some salt flats I would be taking it back to the selling dealer, that looks like it could become dangerous if not attended to.

Save

savvas

· #7 · Jun 5, 2012

Hell no. Get it sorted by dealer asap before that hub nut rusts itself on forever.

Save

peckmv

· #8 · Jun 5, 2012

Never-seize is your friend.:thumbsup:

Save

fljeepleo

· #9 · Jun 5, 2012 (Edited)

Here is mine after 8k. Doesn't look as bad as yours but I would say some rust is normal. Now you have me wanting to wire brush it and putting some corrosion inhibitor on it.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

See less See more

Save

robpp

· #10 · Jun 5, 2012

At a minimum put a bit of anti seize where the rotor meets the hub and some on your wheel studs.

Save

AAAA

· #11 · Jun 5, 2012

Yadkin said:
What state is this in. One of the reasons why I left the rust belt...

I took a trip to the Adirondacks this past spring. When I got home I washed the truck from top to bottom and had a ton of New York State lying on my driveway when I was done.

And you went right by here on your way to the mountains and didn't let me know?

BTW, send that stuff back. I have a low spot in my lawn.

Save

77Cherokee

· #12 · Jun 5, 2012

I took a trip to the Adirondacks this past spring. When I got home I washed the truck from top to bottom and had a ton of New York State lying on my driveway when I was done.[/QUOTE said:
Now your tax bill will go up.

Save

Sponge Bob

· #13 · Jun 6, 2012

Yadkin said:
What state is this in. One of the reasons why I left the rust belt...

I took a trip to the Adirondacks this past spring. When I got home I washed the truck from top to bottom and had a ton of New York State lying on my driveway when I was done.

No wonder real estate is so expensive in NY. You guys are taking it home with you!!

Save

Yadkin

· #14 · Jun 6, 2012

AAAA said:
And you went right by here on your way to the mountains and didn't let me know?
BTW, send that stuff back. I have a low spot in my lawn.

Sorry, but I'm keeping it. I consider it payment for the paint chips on my front bumper and hood, and two windshield chips, all from that trip.

Save

sbraun

· #15 · Jun 6, 2012

I second the wire brush and rust inhibitor suggestion. Just be careful not to get any of the lubricant on the face of the brake rotor. I hand a flat tire on my right rear two years ago in the middle of nowhere in rural Alberta Canada and I had a difficult time freeing the rim from rotor. Now I do preventative maintenance on each tire every spring and fall. Another hint is not to over tighten the lug nuts. I purchased a torque wrench and now tighten the lug nuts to the specifications noted in the owners manual.

Save

JeepJunkie

Discussion Starter · #16 · Jun 7, 2012 (Edited)

Yeah, a few of the rims were sticking when I did my rotation: That was part of why it was such hard work.

As far as taking it back to the dealer, I purchased it used with 22,500 miles on it. Like 99% of the used WK2s sold last year, it was a rental car in it's former life.

If it doesn't qualify as a warranty fix, which it probably wouldn't, they're not going to help me out in the least.

UPDATE: Went in for service, Dealer says thats just surface oxidation, warranty not applicable but it isnt anything to worry about

Save

Shutterbug57

· #17 · Aug 20, 2012

What anti-seize or rust inhibitor did y'all use and did it fix the issue?

Save

BobT

· #18 · Oct 16, 2013

I give the hub a light spray of WD40 and wipe off the excess. I wouldn't be putting heavy rust preventative or anti-sieze in that area. What holds the wheel onto the hub is not the studs and lug nuts as such but the pre-stressing friction they produce between the wheel and the hub so it's not a good idea to put anything between them that might interfere with the friction coeficient. I figure the fine film of oil that WD40 leaves behind wouldn't hurt. I also torque the lug nuts.

Save

mswlogo

· #19 · Oct 16, 2013 (Edited)

I discovered Jeep fixed this problem on 2014 wheels.

You can also fix your wheels.

I started a thread on it in the tire and wheels section.

They added a drain (5 actually) to hub cavity.

It will also prevent wheel from seizing to the hub.

Here is the thread. Includes photos of mod to old 2013 wheels and new 2014 wheels

http://www.jeepgarage.org/f109/possible-fix-for-preventing-rusty-hubs-66736.html

See less See more

Save

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.

Top Contributors this Month