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145 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Well.....I have just about everything I need to start one final build. Getting to old to bend in awkward positions anymore....:p Anyway, list of equipment is below

Keeping OEM head unit for function. All processing will be done with the processor. I plan on taping in after the head unit to void any issues with the Alpine amp. I will be using the revised PAC adapter to do this. If I have noise issues, I will let you know for those considering this. I will try the Navone noise filter as well. I will also ground the head unit using a 10 gauge wire to a bare metal ground location after I test resistance for the best location.

Zed Audio Leviathan III Front Stage
Zed Audio Minotaur II Sub Stage
Rockford 3sixty.3 Processing

Speakers - 3 Way active
Scan Illuminator Tweeters
Scan Discovery 10f mids or the Fountek 89's. I have both so may play..:D
Scan Illuminator 18WU/4741's Midbass...doesn't get much better. The Kippel results are the best I've seen on any woofer of this size..:eek: If it's anything like the tried and true's going to be sweet. :thumbsup:

If I could get an 8" to fit, it would be the Peerless SLS....nothing better out there and it's like $60 each. Another member is going to try an 8". If he is able to fit....well.....Peerless here I come. :lol:

Subwoofer -
Stealthbox that has been reinforced, sound deadened and stuffed.
Sub of choice JL Audio 10w6v3. Decided to try it out. I also have the Morel Ultimo SC and the ScanSpeak Discovery 10. All these subs will do well in the box, which I don't think is actually .62 or whatever the W3 needs, which is why I think they may have added the poly fill to trick the sub in thinking its in a bigger enclosure :rolleyes:...not a big deal many high end manufacturers do this. The W6 was optimized for .55 and I'm putting in acoustic fill.....:lol:

For those interested in reinforcing your box, I just used 3/4" MDF at the mounting points to the bottom of the box...secured with JB Weld and the original screws from the W3. I did install 1 1/2" MDF spacer for clearance...the W6 is huge and heavy..allot heavier than version 2. I used fiberglass resin to add another layer...covered the MDF braces as well for extra support. From there I covered the inside of the box with acoustic spray. After that, I will be adding some acoustic filler....not poly fill...something a little more dense.

Even though I don't need it, I plan to run 1/0 power cable to a splitter than 4 gauge to the amps. I haven't looked for a good ground location....I can make my own if needed. I plan to cover all wiring to include speaker wiring with tech flex to void any rubbing issues...pretty much indestructible.;)

The RCA's will be just standard RCA's from Knuconceptz..nothing special...there all the same at the end of the day...just be sure it's shielded and your good. ;)

Just so you know, it's not going to be some show piece...just something that will sound good. Don't care about looks....or entering some show.

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145 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Almost forgot, all the gains will be matched using the Steve Meade Distortion damn good and will ensure decent output below distortion level. It will work like this....check head unit output...SET....check processor....SET.....check AMP....SET. Make final adjustments by ear.

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145 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Decided to run my power wire from the battery box under the seat to under the vehicle and back in the cargo area. I covered my power wire with two sleeves of TechFlex for double protection, than wrapped that with electrical tape. Much.....Much easer to run this under the vehicle. I kept the fuse holder in the battery box.

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145 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·

1. Power ran underneath the Jeep from battery box. Covered with TechFlex ( two wraps ) and then covered that with heavy duty electrical tape.

2. Have the ground wires made up for the amps. Found two good spots in the rear.

3. Amps mounted to the inner shell in the cargo area. I covered the plastic liner with bed liner spray. ( This is the liner the plastic bins sit on ).

4. Finished up the stealthbox and mounted the W6. Went ahead and made braces around the mounting service due to the weight of the W6v3. I put another layer of resin, then Acoustic spray and finally acoustic fill.

5. I used acoustic spray underneath the rear of Jeep. I also covered the inside with dynamat - rear only.

6. Made speaker brackets for the Illuminators and had rings made with a taper so I can angle them correctly.

Next week, I will finish it out. Processor, speakers and put the steatlhbox in. I will try to get some pics of the illuminators when installed. PAC adapter came today, so that will be installed as well.

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27 Posts
Thank you for your post sswails. I have a '14 Overland with the 8.4N and am preparing for my upgrade as follows:

JL XD700/5
RF P400-4
RF 3Sixty.3

Hertz HSK 165 6.5 Components Front
Hertz ECX 165 6.5 Coaxials Back
Hertz ECX 87 3.5 Coaxial Dash
JL Audio 10w3v3 Stealthbox

A couple of questions:

1. In order to get full range, I was planning on summing 8-channels: Front Tweeters (2), Front Midbass (2), Fronth dash (1), back door coaxials (2), and subwoofer (1).

Planning to use the high level output from factory amp into the 3Sixty. Is this what you are planning to do or are your using the PAC CanBus harness to get full range?

2. Another very knowledgeable member of the forum found that IHO due to the inability of the 3Sixty to deal with the factory time delay properties of the high level input signal when summing up the full range signal: he would loose a segement of the mid frequencies. He ended setting up his front stage active to ensure the most flexibilty to adjust the 3Sixty to get all mid frequencies. Are you using high level input or the PAC?

3. Base don the above(2), I was planning running active at the front. However i dont know if the 75w RMS @ 4ohms that I will serve the tweeter in an active system is too much. Would it be better to bridge the 700/5 and serve the front Hertz 150w @ 4ohms unsing the factory crossover?
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